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I have to agree with Joseph here. From what I can see he has consent to print the files. So long as he doesn't remove the watermark and resell them it shouldn't matter what material they're made from of as a finished product. Bishop has shown no desire to resell them so it's safe to say they are for his own personal use.

Name: Alexander Schwaninger TK-ID: 22504 Forum Name: azoroes Garrison: German Garrison (SESQ) Legion profile: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=30445 Armor: RS Prop Masters Helmet: RS Prop Masters Undersuit: RS Prop masters Blaster: Doopy Doo Kit Neckseal: Imperial Seamstress Gloves: Friendmade Belt: Selfmade Boots: Imperial Boots Size: 1,80m Weight: 63kg Full Shots: Detail Shots Helmet Acessories Blaster

That's what I use as a final fill for larger spots after spray putty but you'll find the spray putty will cover and fill more compared to primer and is a lot easier to sand than the glazing putty

Just occurred to me are you using a spray putty, it is a lot thicker than a primer/filler and can really save some time fixing smaller holes and scratches. I prefer to get it in tin form rather than spray can as you can really apply quite quickly and it is also works out a lot cheaper, I use a cheap home electric spray gun as it will apply thick compared to normal auto spray guns, I think it cost me @$25 on aliexpress .

I got all the leg pieces sanded at the trim lines and I am going to start with the thighs so I know how much extra abs strips I have for the magnetic calf closures. I have 20mm arm cover strips so I am going to do 25mm front and 30mm back for the legs. I removed the upper return edge and with no other trimming (40mm ridge) it still leaves about a 15mm gap at the top back which I can easily fill and cover with a 30mm strip. Besides the extra ridge that will shown in the front (which I don’t like) does the fit look ok? This is pretty snug but there is enough room to move and has about a finger’s width of extra room.

I believe on the bottom of the forearms, it’s more important that they have no return edge. With my AM 4.5 kits, when I trim them down, it’s not perfectly flat at the wrist. I highly recommend starting a build thread to share your progress and post photos with any questions you have regarding your build and specific concerns as each armor make has subtle differences. Also, check out the gallery section of this site to reference screen accuracy. I look forward to following your build!

Awesome, thanks Glen. If I get some time I'll make a start on the other links you have posted but have done my old icomm tute and the drop box one as well.

It's been a few days since my last update, but the work continues. I end up staying up late at night working on my armor after the Mrs. turns in and am too exhausted to post anything when I am done for the night. Here's what I've been up to... Regarding the thighs, I cut very little from the top per Mario's suggestion and used a heat sealing iron to round out the top for a small return edge. Once this was done, I also trimmed a bit more of the return edge so as just to have the slight finish curve at top. Heat sealing iron I purchased through Walmart.com for less than $30. This baby works wonders. Thighs cut with mark for return. Result of using the sealing iron on the edge. Then, it was a happy Monday as these items arrived! Ok, back to the build... Here's a shot after torso strapping was added. Thigh strapping had not yet been done. Here are some shots of the strapping. I used the hinge method on the left side and the slot connection on the right side of the kidney/ab connection to keep things in line. I've seen this on a few builds, but I followed AJ's 2.0 build thread for implementation. Added snaps and cod rivet. Finished thigh strips and added ammo belt Added sniper knee Here I have my thighs strapped and am working on getting the strapping started for the arms and shoulder bells. I had to trim about 1/2" off the bell and created a very slight curve, but I can stand to take a little bit off the top again and make a bit more defined curve. The forearms right a little high on my wrists, but I almost prefer this rather than having a larger gap between the bicep and forearm. Any suggestions on that are appreciated. Also, I get pinched a bit between the cod and the thigh if I don't walk carefully. Can the edges of the cod piece be trimmed back slightly to alleviate this?

Welcome to the FISD Steve Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Hi Paxton, Thanks for your application and your patience as we reviewed your submission. CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry rank. On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Starting from the top, as already mentioned, you can consider trimming the brow trim just a touch so it stops around the edge of the trap. Reference Image: This next suggestion is for trooping only; not for screen accuracy. In the 501st we strive to maintain that 'movie magic' where we look like we just walked off the movie set. To that end, most TKs add some sort of mesh or cloth behind the teeth to obscure the face of the person wearing it. When we get back to in-person troops, this is just a nice touch. Reference Image merely to demonstrate that in the movies, it was difficult to see the faces of the actors underneath. There's no indication that they actually used mesh on-screen. Next, a couple dressing issues. Ideally we like to see symmetric and even gaps. Your left forearm is riding a bit high, causing it to run into your left bicep, and also causing a larger gap at the wrist. Additionally, your right bicep is sitting quite a bit lower than your left. So next time you're getting suited up, just have a handler take a look that everything is sitting properly. It may also require a minor strapping adjustment. . Reference Image: In the same area, it looks like you have a corner of the forearm sticking out past the cover strip, so we're suggesting you simply snip it off. It will also prevent your undersuit from getting snagged. Reference Image: Continuing on, your TD appears to be sitting a bit high. We're suggesting you consider adjusting the clips so that it sits more in-line with the canvas belt. Reference Images: Another small detail, but on the screen-used suits, the sniper knee was trimmed to be more angular: Finally, again compared to screen-used suits, your thigh ammo rivet is closer to the edge of the ammo pack. Not a big deal at all, and fixing it would require a fair amount of work, but worth mentioning. Reference Images: Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. First, a small issue that isn't explicitly called out in the CRL, but as stated before we use visual reference as well as text reference to do our reviews. It appears your left shoulder bell is quite a bit longer than the right. For your Centurion app, we'd like you to trim the left shoulder bell to match the size of the right. Alternatively, if it's simply a matter of strapping or camera angle, you can try just adjusting the way it sits to get them to be even. Reference Image: The L3 CRL states: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. Yours actually look pretty good, especially from the back, but it does still look like there's room to bring them in. I think tightening the strapping holding the shoulder bells on should do it. Reference Images: Moving along, the L3 CRL states: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Yours is sitting *just* a bit too low. On my own kit, I added a couple small strips of velcro to keep my belt from sagging. As you can see in the reference photos, even a slight overlap of the lower ab buttons is acceptable. Reference Images: Next, the L3 CRL states: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. Your right side gap will need to be brought in some, so I'd suggest adding or tightening the strapping there, as well as making sure the tops are aligned when you get dressed. On the left the gap looks great, you'll just have to be sure the tops are aligned. Reference Images: Next, your 'Han snap' is present, but unfortunately it's sitting too far in compared to the screen-used suits. For Centurion, you'd need to drill it out, fill that hole, the re-set a snap closer to the edge of the ab plate. Reference Image: Added Similarly, it looks like your side rivets are a bit far from the edge. The L3 CRL states: Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. Again, you would need to drill the rivets out, fill the holes, and re-set them. It is difficult but doable; I believe @TKSpartan has had to do that before. Alternatively, if you have room to do it, I think you could trim off the edges of the ab and kidney so that the rivets are at the correct distance from the edge, but you'd have to adjust the strapping to make sure there is no gap. Reference Images: Moving along, thanks for the correction with your drop boxes, but for L3 they will need to be brought out even further. The CRL states: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Many of us add a drop of glue to the elastic holding the drop boxes on to keep them from wandering. Reference Image: Finally, I'm 99.9% sure your hand plates are the required latex, but for your Centurion application, make sure to include a photo that shows them bending so that we can confirm they are flexible. Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Reference Image: And that's it! A few corrections, but I have full confidence in your ability to tackle them, so we hope to see your Centurion application soon. Congratulations again on reaching EIB!

Welcome aboard, Steve. :-)

Only had time to sand the putty on the hand plates today and rinse them off. Hopefully tomorrow I can spray primer on the exterior and sand them again. Nothing else got done today as we were super busy.

Filled some imperfections on the hand plates with putty. Yes, that's a Play-doh knife ;-) I'll sand them tomorrow and then apply some primer to the exterior. My hardener came in, but I had just 4 ounces of resin left lol! It was enough for today, so hopefully I don't need resin for anything else! I applied some resin to a few cracks in the barrel. Then I redid the thighs. I had a bit left, so I did the thigh ammo belt, and spread the rest across the trauma plate. I still have a lot to sand, but I think I'm done for today. I've been typing up my to do list, trying to catch everything that's coming up for this armor. It doesn't seem like much until I expand each task into its parts (trimming, multiple coats, sanding, washing). And then I realize how many pieces I have to do all of that to! Good thing I have 3 months before Halloween (and who knows what COVID'S going to do to that)...