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We will be putting in for centurion mate, need another gold RWA patch [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Thanks everyone!! First troop last night went great, I started a log in the Field Training Exercises section to keep track of them there. I didn't have any issues with the kit until I was taking it off, the cod snap came off the split rivet. I thought this might happen as the snap was pretty cheap/thin (it was installed before I had Tandy snaps), so it's getting replaced with a new split rivet and Tandy snap. Easy fix as soon as I get a replacement rivet tomorrow from Cricket (thanks!!), this one weakened and failed after trying to straighten the posts back up for the new snap. Then it's off to another troop! I realized I had forgotten to run a couple strips of soft side Velcro on the back of the thermal detonator straps, so I had to polish out a few scratches today and then I took care of the straps. Also seen are my Nomex flight gloves that just arrived, so once I trim down and install the ABS hand guards I'll be using those when I can. The rubber gloves aren't terrible with liners, but the Nomex gloves are so much more comfortable. Especially in the humidity we have here.

I'm very glad, lol! - Thanks for being super quick to respond as well

Quick update - I touched up the paint on the tube stripes using a mix of toothpicking and mineral spirits. It took awhile, but it looks way better! I also then added the mesh to the frown. FOR THE MESH: I used hot glue on the inside, and it first it didn't work, but then I figured out how to fix it. Adding glue to the plastic and then sticking the mesh on won't work. But adding the glue to the ABS, then adding then mesh, THEN adding another layer of glue, basically traps the mesh in between the two layers. Now I can actually lift the helmet by the mesh inside of it. We'll see how long it holds! I'll update my main helmet post with this update, as now the helmet is pretty much done (on the outside). Just need to get the S-Trim. Thanks for any feedback!

Thanks Glen, I knew they were out there and I've seen submitted photos with them, but never seen a build that used them. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

Personally I cut off the return edge from the kidney, then glue a piece of ABS behind, usually about 3 to 4 inches in width, I/1 is glued to the kidney plate, then glue a spacer shim to the other 1/2 of the plate attached to the kidney. I like to use JB weld to glue them as it does take a while to dry so you can move around and it is a lot stronger than E6000. Once dry you can remove any glue down the join line, mix up some ABS paste and fill the gap, once dry you can use several different grades of sandpaper to remove any excess then use a cutting compound polish to bring back the shin. Here's a couple of threads that should help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37319-how-to-anovos-kidney-plate-shims/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32266-side-shims-and-rivets/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30226-side-shims-on-abkidney-help/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29077-adding-the-kidney-shim-not-bad-but/ ABS paste how too: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

Hi Patrick, Great advise from the others. I can see that you have a few different threads at the moment with different pics in each. If it were me, I’d post all of your pictures to one thread, including kitted up photos and individual parts. Best way to do that is to use the “BBCODE” option in Imgur and post those links into your thread. This way, the images show up right there in the thread, rather than being redirected to an image hosting site. Your armour is getting there. The community is here to help you if we can get some clearer pics. Best wishes Dan

Another RWA Centurion in the making, me thinks. ;-) Great work, Mason. Look forward to seeing you on the front lines. :-)

Agreed awesome job and yeah easy approval. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Great work - easy approval

Hi Patrick, I highly recommend you go check out the EIB request threads in the “Advanced Tactics” area here on the forum. You will get a better idea how to look really sharp in armor. You are almost there, just work a little bit more on the issues our guys mentioned above and you will be trooping in no time!

Cool! Rubbing it off then Thanks!

Same method as above. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

E6000 will normally come off just by rubbing with a finger, thumb and cloth works, you can also use a rubber, to get into corners you can use a toothpick or scrap pieces of ABS.

Lol. Good thing I asked first! [emoji28] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback! I took some toothpicks to the edges and did some touch ups on the bars. I feel like it's looking much better. It was actually pretty easy, but lengthy to do it, and it just shows you that you can really fix anything if you mess it up. Here are some before and after shots: First attempt: After some toothpick-edging! (don't pay attention to the Tube Stripe stuff in these photos.. I have a section for that just underneath) TUBE STRIPES I also took a stab at the tube stripes. Still have some toothpick-edging to do once it dries, but here was what I've done so far: I started by taking the decals that came with the AP kit, then cut them out. I labeled them JUST in case I screwed everything up and wanted to actually use them in the same order. I also trimmed it down to only 14 tube stripes per side: I then stuck that on as the decal, making sure it was pencil width away from the cheeks, then painted over it with a thin coat of white paint: Once it dried, I did a light layer of the blue, then let it dry. Then I did a heavy coat of the blue. After it dried enough (maybe 2 hours), I removed the faux-stencils, and now I'm just waiting for it to dry completely. I thought that maybe I could toothpick-edge it while it was still wet, but, as you can see from the last image, it just smudges the paint. So once it dries I'll go over the edges with the toothpick and it should look alright! (I hope) Thanks! Any feedback is always appreciated

And here we go! Rough trimming is mostly done- a few curves I need to use the dremel on. Next I will fine sand the edges and then I can start assembling the armor! Finger armor has arrived (the yellow pile), and they need sanding and polishing. Gaskets are on order, threw in a neck seal as well (Geeky Pink's), cape, belt and soft belt boxes will be the next purchase. Close up of the boots and lifts: The CRL says no laces, but no laces are going to show, so I should be able to make it work. I found that because of the height the lifts added, my foot wouldn't fit comfortably in most non-lace boots. A pair of my work heels with my lifts for scale, roughly 4''. If I can wear those heels 4 - 5 times per week and walk comfortably, then I think I can do the same with these lifts. I'm going to build up the base a little so that there's not such a distinct drop in slope at the arch, which should also make it more comfortable. And finally, the helmet thus far: A little more fine sanding along the eyes and then I'm ready to fine sand the whole thing. There's a lot of little extra bits that I have to remove, most of which are in tricky places. We'll see how that goes. I'm also going to cut out new lens material. The helmet came with bubble, and I just can't see out of them except a tiny little spot in each eye. Not a great combo for someone on lifts who's already kinda clumsy. No stumbling Phasma around here! With luck, I'll have some time between a troop, decorating for Halloween, and Book Club this weekend to get some more work done!

@Scalawag Thanks Paul for sharing that knowledge about the crinkle paint with us.

At last, finished off the "clean" version of Rey's blaster, and made a little display stand for it. Happy with the results! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Your latest progress looks really good, Marko. As mentioned by Dan, I also would suggest to move the scope a bit towards the rear sight. Your completion set contained the earlier version of finished scope rails with this flaw. The new rails got improved and the mounting holes repositioned. You can fill the wrong holes with green stuff and drill new ones. Good job done on the end cap clip as well. If not yet installed on your receiver tube, you might want to trimm the edges a bit to look more like this: Can't wait to see your dovetail mod for the front sight.

That’s coming on really nicely. Looking forward to the next update. :-) Just a little thing I noticed: if you are going for out and out accuracy, the rear foot of the scope usually lines up with the coach bolts for the folding stock. Example below; Keep up the good work. :-) Dan