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Made alot of progress this week,,,, next week ill do the trigger

Wow that’s a lot of abs paste and sanding, just a tip but if you sand wet with a drop of washing liquid in the water it will help the sandpaper to last longer, that’s using wet and dry sandpaper of course

Time and patience does wonders! First time builder or a veteran doesn't change the fact that you have to sand multiple times and apply coats. Great work!

Wow, your good. Looks great Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Negative, the AP ones are regular "sticker" stickers. People use water to help position them so they don't just attach to the ABS right away. It took me several attempts to peel them off the paper. The paper kept tearing so I'd move to another corner and eventually the vinyl sticker would lift. Mark

At the moment I have already removed one ridge from the wrist side, though I'm afraid that trimming another ridge would make it too short? But I'm not sure. I still have SOOO much space inside. Though I probably will remove that return edge, yes. I just wish there was a way I knew of of how to taper the wrist in again, because the space is HUGE Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

You can (and should) cut the tops of the thighs down, Chris. They can pretty much be trimmed down as needed for a correct fit. I always suggest removing all return edges in the following areas as seen in the screen used armor below. BUT... do a test fit first BEFORE gluing anything together. If not, the pieces will be loose afterward and may not fit correctly. There is a term we call "armor bite", which means that the return edges rub, chafe or pinch you while suited up. Better to to be proactive than reactive to prevent this. I hope you are thinking about aiming for Centurion, and removing materials in these areas will not affect approval at any level. Thigh tops- Return edge has been completely removed. Note that there is also none in the "groin" area, which can (and will) lead to chafing. When cutting these down, just follow the same lines /shape of the existing top. Elbow openings- Since you will spend a lot of time holding your E-11, your arms will be bent in. Losing the return edge here will stop any discomfort. Biceps- No one sees the tops anyway, so why not be more comfortable! Shoulder bells- Having a return edge on the bottoms adds to a "thicker" look, but this can also cause them to ride out and leave a large gap between the bells and chest/back plates. (Not a desired effect). You can trim most (or all) of it off if needed. Wrist openings- You should trim this off 100%, (especially in the "hump" area I highlighted). Keep asking as many questions as you like, sir. We are here to help!

I finally found out my issue, my cutter knife wasn't sharp enough, after I bought the new cutter, it finally SNAPS !

Helmet finished (except the fancy internals) Belt assembly finished, had some trouble with a bad rivet gun but nothing a dremel can't fix. Rivet into snap and snaps on the holster for ease of transportation. (Note: this is a mirrored shot, my holster is on the left side as it should be ) Drop-box loops curing. I can do it in this order because my ABS belt is snapped to the cloth belt. TD panel curing until tomorrow Ab buttons. I originally bought a circle cutter for making my own masking templates but said oh heck it and went freehand. And the last little detail.. Which I saved for last.. The white elastic band for the shoulder bridges Next post will probably be approval pictures And then on to EIB and Centurion

A bit late now but a tip to help with bleed through is paint white first, then if it bleeds it’s not as noticeable, nice work on the paint job

If we are talking about the shoulder tabs, you can find some info in Tony’s build thread, also my mod Shoulder Bell AccuracyShoulder Bell Accuracy pt 2Shoulder Bell Accuracy: gmrhodes alt

Become a empires governor/warlord, have your own imperial garrison, and take over and rule South Carolina is no option?

I started with all the cutlines molded in, as Daniel said. They were pretty apparent on all my pieces - if not on the outside, then on the inside. Basically where it starts getting real bumpy and wrinkly, I sketched along that border with a pencil, made sure THAT line made sense, and cut there. Also, my shins look the same as yours. (Flipped, as yours are: ) As far as I'm aware, it's just part of the beautiful ATA wonkiness. Really are some beautiful shins.

Hi Aaron, Mark’s right - you can get much better blasters from other sources. Based on your location, I’d perhaps check out Praetorian Blaster, Quest Design (Canada), Hyperfirm or (if you fancy a DIY build) the DoopyDoos kit. :-)

Hi mate I personally wouldn’t even bother with a sds e11 for one there piss poorly made and the other main reason is that with the big legal battle that went on in the 80s/90s between LFL and AA he’s not aloud to do business in the USA,Read up on the history of LFL/AA. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Teresa (Geeky Pinks) is in Alberta and she is great to work with! She can make neck seal to your size! Also, S-shape vs. U-shape is indeed referring to the rubber trim that lines the edge of the opening of the helmet.