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  2. Hello Everyone, just wanted to share this. I just finished up two of my helmets like this and thought I would post it. It is fully lined and padded. Interior is painted black. All of the wiring is hidden behind the neck tubing. There are four fans. Bottom fan left faces across while right bottom faces angled down and across. The top two face up towards lenses. On the lower base by chin is a box with two switches. Left switch turns on top fans and right switch turns on bottom fans. Both powered by a single 4x AA battery box in the back of the helmet. There are ear speakers that attach to a mic system for amplified hearing. It runs a Icomm unit that is attached to a powered amplifier that leads to Hovi tips. All self contained in the helmet. Very snug fit and comfortable. So honored to be on board with everyone. I have three complete sets that I completely customized. Look forward to meeting everyone.
  3. Hello Everyone. First and foremost let me just say I have never seen a group made up of so many nice people and so many friendly people. Wow, such an honor to be a part of something so special. Anyway, glad to be on board.
  4. Today
  5. Hey all, Thanks for the info. It is truly appreciated. I will post detailed pics of the pieces and how they fit together by this weekend. I'll aim for a new post in the build section? I'll also copy and paste allot of this info there. I am 5' 10, and about 190 lbs, so the armour should fit okay. This is incentive to lose that extra 10 or 15 lbs to get closer to that typical British actor size they used in ANH After getting home I only unboxed the helmet (of course!) before heading off for a work function. People have complained about the odd shape of the SDS helmets. And I can attest to the fact that it seems warped. However, from my readings most of the original helmets were all oddly shaped and individual. No matter how much I love the movie, I've never had the opportunity to even be close to a set of armour before. I've gone all these years thinking all the armour was the same between all the movies, not realizing there were differences in design, fit, shape of helmets, paint jobs, etc. I hadn't even noticed after watching all the movies dozens of times that the teeth colour had changed! I thought I had researched this to death before buying. I downloaded pics of the SDS, plus images from 501st, movie screen grabs and other sources. From online, I could make out some of the differences, but some other differences described by users eluded me. As I mentioned before, there is way too much info out there. Many forum discussions go back and forth "No this armour had this feature" " No, you are wrong. This armour was different during this scene, with features such as this..." All very confusing. Things like the complete plastic belt will be fixed before trooping. I'm pretty handy and this should be an easy fix. From my reading, it seems like every original suit was an individual work of art and not the same as any other suit. That's what makes this confusing. Some sites I've gone to briefly describe what is wrong with the SDS, but from my understanding it is a recast of ROTJ and ESB parts. After talking with the VERY HELPFUL customer rep in the UK, he told me the suit was based off of ANH armour. I have noticed the following: 1) This is listed as a hero helmet and has most of the features, (like the bubble eye lenses) but there are 4 ear bumps not 3. 2) Tear drops, rear vent trap details are very neat decals, not painted 3) The holster is a ESB design. Black loops meant to fit over the belt I'll know the quality of the molding once I get everything unpacked and laid out, but even if I think it looks good, somebody may say "Nope. It's wrong" As to the licencing and claim for design rights, that is a topic which I don't really want to discuss in depth. But like details about the armour, from what I've read (and it is not an exhaustive study by any means, so be gentle on me) there are many varying stories about this saga, some which go along with the theory everyone states of AA lying. However, I've also read parts where AA states he didn't do the complete design, he just designed the molds to better suit production. Anywhoooooo, More to follow this weekend. Cheers
  6. Hi Sorry for the delay... the belt is from RWA Ross from Isle of Wight, UK the holster is also from Ross. @Ukswarth used your Anovos TK build thread to help me with the placements and strapping thank-you !! Hopefully I got just the belt and some painting touchup to do !! and then I be finished .... need a E11 now.. but for some reason I started to 3D print a DLT 19 lol maybe Napoleon complex..
  7. Hi I have this KIT and I am 5"7" I did not need to trim anything I did get a bigger kidney plate as I am a fatty Be careful trimming the Bells its hard to see the cut lines I trimmed to much from mine so had to get another set.. Ross has videos on you tube how to build his kit etc highly recommend Dan AKA CableGuy has this kit also. For me I did not use the popper kit. I went with MrNoStrips https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20859-accurate-anh-stormtrooper-strapping-brackets-v-20-now-available/?tab=comments#comment-257207 Flexiable Hand Guards and rivets and TD screws and helmetscrews (Just in case) Justjoesoph63 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34902-centurion-level-rivet-sets-for-sale-open/ for other strapping I used ukswrath anovos TK build https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-uswraths-anovos-tk-build-stunt/ You need plenty of decent strong clamps grips, Magnets , lexan scissors, straight edge, sharp knife and sanding block with papers.. Be careful on the kidney piece mine broke at the crease.. other stupid things I did... trimmed to much from bell.. trimmed ad sides a bit to much as I am a bit fat needed shims or Ross,s Chunky Kidney piece. Hovi metal mesh cut them round instead of watching Ross Video how to stamp the out looks neater will make a 3D mode for this once I get replacement Mesh Messed up the stripes on the helmet.. make sure its aligned and the right way and its stuck down properly.. Messed up the thickness of the Helmet lines easy fix to redo.. make sure your ab buttons are not rounded off they should be square. Belt placement double double check measure twice cut once stuff.. Hovi Tips when painting dont paint the end rings of the Hovi tips just the outside part black I was obsessing to make things square and aligned etc... its not meant to be!! Welcome! enjoy building your Kit!! Hopefully now I finished my travels, I can finish my kit this weekend! paint colour guide https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45651-anh-paint-colour-guide-tamiya-equivalents/ My build thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45747-rwa-anh-tk-stunt/
  8. Since the vocoder was the most perplexing for me, I’ll start with that. The stock vocoder is rubberized, but lacks the 3D gap on screen. Recreating that pretty much requires annihilation and rebuilding. First task: Remove the rubber coating. Turns out you don’t have to perfectly preserve the white plastic underneath. Then I cut away the outer ribs. I’m not sure if I could’ve left the rubber coating on the inner three ribs. I made replacement ribs out of windshield wiper fluid hose from the auto parts store. For the inner ribs I cut the hose in half and glued it on. The rubber neck seal is integral to the helmet so I left it on the front. I left part that connects to the three center ribs and did my best to line up the hose halves with it. I just threaded the remaining tubes and glued them in place, working from the center outward. I only used CA (superglue). Since I was mounting the speaker behind the vocoder, I didn’t want to fill the gaps with ABS. I improvised and used the outer layer of a dust mask. It’s rather like Tyvex, but obviously breathable. It was a pain to glue it in there and make it flat. I’m sure there’s a clever way to do this but it escaped me.
  9. https://imgur.com/gallery/rvMqLPq is this about how the brow line should look?
  10. Here is the kidney after being trimmed: And here is the butt taped on to make the proper length - almost 3/4” overlap. Yes I did trim that much off! My hips aren’t too even because of scoliosis, so I hung the butt so it looked straight. I did the same return edge trick with the butt. I haven’t pulled the tape off yet to fill in what’s under it and smooth the rest. I trimmed the buttons waaaay too close! This is my salvage result.
  11. Yes, the vertical edge of kidney and butt plate are already line to line. No notch is needed. I see what you mean about the ab might be able to drop same amount when choose to cut any off butt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Yesterday
  13. I can totally understand that over the top information. I want to look awesome but not scared if I don’t have it exactly.
  14. Hi Michael, My thought for the red line on the bottom plate was just to reduce the overall height of the butt plate. If the sides match up, it will probably be better to leave it at the sides. Is your butt plate correctly overlapping the kidney? Not easy to tell here but I think it might be? If so. It should be possible to have the kidney and butt touching at the back without upsetting the side alignment of the ab and kidney. It’s possible that your ab plate could drop by an inch or so. Once there’s a strap from the cod to the butt, that should hold things in place. :-) For the butt plate, just follow screen reference butt plates to gauge the ideal shape (if you choose to trim any parts, that’s is). :-) Dan
  15. Hiya, Honestly, I wouldn’t choose SDS myself due to the quality of the moulds; however, if it looks good to you when you look at it, and it fitted your budget and your delivery needs, then you’re all set. As you now have the armour, I’d probably leave the ifs and buts behind and make the best of what you have. If you do choose to join the 501st with this armour, check with your local Garrison for what changes they might need for basic, then check out the EIB and Centurion applications for this armour. Best of luck in your journey. Dan
  16. Nice work just a few things, your forearms need to rotate so the cover strips align with the biceps. You could also reduce the gap at the elbow by bringing down your biceps a little. Your thigh ammo strip has a pretty big twist to it, perhaps a little heat and some pressure will help to straighten it a little. Watch the closure of your calves, the right one is open at the top. Appears your shoulder strap elastic loops are a little loose. A few tweaks and I'm sure you'll be fine. Good luck with approval
  17. I ... I think I might be done. I should redo the bicep straps, and I need to re-glue a couple of magnets, and there's a couple of things I want to fiddle with in the helmet ... But ... I didn't take all the photos wanted for a Pre-Approval thread, but here are the "basic" five:
  18. I wish I could. I had a computer crash and my files are lost. And I can’t find whom I shared them with last. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Hey Jeff, you should put some of this thread and the files if you wish to share them, over in our 3D section. Nice work bty.
  20. Were you able to upload the files somewhere?
  21. I do feel that to really begin to understand and get a grasp you need to build a TK, bit of a chicken and egg problem. 1: Yes 2: Mainly for the false claims, it's not what he claims it is. But also the armour isn't all that accurate. 3: There's better starting points (there's also worse) but they do clear basic and some have been taken to Centurion. How much work you will need to do depends on how it fits and the standards of your Garrison. Due to the distributed nature of Garrisons doing basic clearance it does vary a bit. 4: The front bit, with the bumps on for want of a better description, is plastic. This is then riveted to a canvas belt that Velcro's up at the rear under the TD. Those rivets are covered by small ~1" covers. The holster attaches to the canvas belt (for ANH anyway), in the film they were riveted on but there's a number of acceptable ways such as Chicago screws or I riveted on a snap so it looks accurate but can be detached. If the main belt is rigid then it's for the bin I am affraid.
  22. If you check out the Vetted Armor Sellers list in the getting started page ( https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ ), it lists the armor sellers whose armor has been validated and good quality, and the sellers are reputable. Not all armors are at the same level of accuracy, and the differences are in the list. One of the major problems people have with SDS is that he has lied about his work and the origins of his armor. Also, it is not very accurate in terms of overall assembly and shape of armor. Once you look at screen used or very accurate armor enough, the many inaccuracies are very evident, just compare it to the CRL (https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt). To be approvable in the 501st, you have to accurately represent an original stormtrooper... to an extent. This doesn't mean you have to look like you walked off screen or are the same size as the originals (just look at aubmissions), but this is why there are levels past basic approval like EIB and Centurion. So as long as armor meets the basic requirements outlined in the CRL, the armor can be approved. In addition to meeting CRL standards, the armor also has to fit the wearer well and can't look out of place to be approved. So all in all, SDS can be approved if it meets the basic standards and fits you well, but more modifications would have to happen to reach higher levels of accuracy. This is part of the reason people build their armor feom kits instead of buying already completed armor. You get to choose armor based off of the level of accuracy you want to achieve, price you are willing to spend, and any other factors affecting you (like different size troopers buy different size armor). Building armor makes sure that the armoe is tailored to the builder and fits well and comfortably. The front of the belt is plastic and is riveted (I believe) to white canvas which wraps around and velcroes in the back. To reach basic approval, the back portion of the belt must be white canvas. In reference to you statement about color of armor, this varies and is taken in to account when people buy armor. Differences in color may be because of different material used by sellers for armor, but it is usually ABS. Some people prefer a cleaner look, and choose a brighter white set of armor, while others who like the screen accurate look choose a creamier, duller set. There are quite a few sellers that have an accurate color for their armor (TM for example), but in the end it is up to personal preference. If you are going for accuracy of assembly, armor, and color, as well as having the stormtrooper be completed already, then SDS is not one of the best choices for this. Check out the previously mentioned Vetted Sellers List and some people offer commisioned armor build. RS Prop Masters is one of the most (and arguably the most) accurate set of armor out their. It is cast from an original set of armor (what SDS claimsof their own, but has been proven false) and validated by the original sculptor of the armor (again, a claim that SDS made about themselves, but proven false) Brian Muir. It is one of the most accurate in terms of ABS color and assembly, and they offer completed armor sets built to the buyer's specifications. TM is a fan-sculpted armor set that is near identical to RS, but less of the beat up screen used look. It is also very accurate armor in terms of shape and color, and I believe they offer completed commisioned builds.
  23. Here is a link to my original build thread before life happened..... if anyone is interested..
  24. Does your red line at the bottom of the butt plate take an inch all the way around except the mating edge to the kidney plate OR just the bottom edge of the armor? The reason I ask is if you look at profile shots, the butt and kidney plate meet evenly without having the notch in the kidney plate. What are your thoughts? The other issue I just thought about is that if Ab plate looks correct, then if I cut an inch off of butt plate, the top of the ab and kidney plate will not line up. I had my wife make sure those were aligned during fitting. I don't know if this would be allow, but since I have to put in a shim to fill gap between ab and kidney, I could taper the ship at an angle so there is no step, but it would not be straight across. I know that is only a requirement for centurion, but I want it to look as good as I possibly can.... even I wait to do it until after basic approval.
  25. I like the thigh to end just above the knee cap. I would think that if the thigh rests on the knee cap itself, mobility would be even more difficult than usual. The bottom of the right knee is kind of hidden by the ammo pack. Now, about that thigh/torso relationship... (and this is what works for me, others might like to do it differently!). It really depends on your height. I didn't see you mention if you're a member of the Vertically Challenged Club or not. If you're on the taller trooper end of the spectrum, then you don't have to worry about shortening the thighs at all, and you can just build away. But if you're on the shorter end, you'll want to try to maintain the original shape of the thighs as best as you can while reducing the overall length of the thigh. Your goal is to have the armor fit well with as little black showing as possible. Try to look like one of these troopers. Pay attention to how the curve of the thigh follows the curve of the cod. I've seen many, many troopers just hack and slash away at their thighs (myself included with my first set of thighs!!!) before seeing how the thighs fit relative to the shape of the cod and butt plates. It's ridiculously easy to overtrim the thighs if you're not wearing your torso first! And your torso should fit you well before shortening the thighs. If your torso is too long, then your trims on the thighs will be all out of whack. Does that make things a little clearer for you?
  26. I do think that both halves of the neck line (chest and back plates) and shoulder tabs should be properly re-shaped. The neck is just too "flat" on both pieces, which lends immediately to the shape of the shoulder tabs. Dan did some great work in helping to define a better shape for those parts above. I do feel that the neck opening on the back plate should probably be reshaped a bit as well as the bottom as he indicated.
  27. For EIB you would need to shim the sides as the gap between the ab and kidney can’t be bigger than 1/2inch and if memory serves you’re already aware of that but other than that there’s nothing more you need to do on the torso for EIB and as i said, for Basic you are good to go
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