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  2. https://imgur.com/gallery/rvMqLPq is this about how the brow line should look?
  3. Today
  4. Here is the kidney after being trimmed: And here is the butt taped on to make the proper length - almost 3/4” overlap. Yes I did trim that much off! My hips aren’t too even because of scoliosis, so I hung the butt so it looked straight. I did the same return edge trick with the butt. I haven’t pulled the tape off yet to fill in what’s under it and smooth the rest. I trimmed the buttons waaaay too close! This is my salvage result.
  5. Yes, the vertical edge of kidney and butt plate are already line to line. No notch is needed. I see what you mean about the ab might be able to drop same amount when choose to cut any off butt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Yesterday
  7. I can totally understand that over the top information. I want to look awesome but not scared if I don’t have it exactly.
  8. Hi Michael, My thought for the red line on the bottom plate was just to reduce the overall height of the butt plate. If the sides match up, it will probably be better to leave it at the sides. Is your butt plate correctly overlapping the kidney? Not easy to tell here but I think it might be? If so. It should be possible to have the kidney and butt touching at the back without upsetting the side alignment of the ab and kidney. It’s possible that your ab plate could drop by an inch or so. Once there’s a strap from the cod to the butt, that should hold things in place. :-) For the butt plate, just follow screen reference butt plates to gauge the ideal shape (if you choose to trim any parts, that’s is). :-) Dan
  9. Hiya, Honestly, I wouldn’t choose SDS myself due to the quality of the moulds; however, if it looks good when you look at it, and it fitted the budget and your delivery needs, then you’re all set. As you now have the armour, I’d probably leave the ifs and buts behind and make the best of what you have. If you do choose to join the 501st with this armour, check with your local Garrison for what changes they might need for basic, then check out the EIB and Centurion applications for this armour. Best of luck in your journey. Dan
  10. Nice work just a few things, your forearms need to rotate so the cover strips align with the biceps. You could also reduce the gap at the elbow by bringing down your biceps a little. Your thigh ammo strip has a pretty big twist to it, perhaps a little heat and some pressure will help to straighten it a little. Watch the closure of your calves, the right one is open at the top. Appears your shoulder strap elastic loops are a little loose. A few tweaks and I'm sure you'll be fine. Good luck with approval
  11. I ... I think I might be done. I should redo the bicep straps, and I need to re-glue a couple of magnets, and there's a couple of things I want to fiddle with in the helmet ... But ... I didn't take all the photos wanted for a Pre-Approval thread, but here are the "basic" five:
  12. I wish I could. I had a computer crash and my files are lost. And I can’t find whom I shared them with last. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hey Jeff, you should put some of this thread and the files if you wish to share them, over in our 3D section. Nice work bty.
  14. Were you able to upload the files somewhere?
  15. I do feel that to really begin to understand and get a grasp you need to build a TK, bit of a chicken and egg problem. 1: Yes 2: Mainly for the false claims, it's not what he claims it is. But also the armour isn't all that accurate. 3: There's better starting points (there's also worse) but they do clear basic and some have been taken to Centurion. How much work you will need to do depends on how it fits and the standards of your Garrison. Due to the distributed nature of Garrisons doing basic clearance it does vary a bit. 4: The front bit, with the bumps on for want of a better description, is plastic. This is then riveted to a canvas belt that Velcro's up at the rear under the TD. Those rivets are covered by small ~1" covers. The holster attaches to the canvas belt (for ANH anyway), in the film they were riveted on but there's a number of acceptable ways such as Chicago screws or I riveted on a snap so it looks accurate but can be detached. If the main belt is rigid then it's for the bin I am affraid.
  16. If you check out the Vetted Armor Sellers list in the getting started page ( https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ ), it lists the armor sellers whose armor has been validated and good quality, and the sellers are reputable. Not all armors are at the same level of accuracy, and the differences are in the list. One of the major problems people have with SDS is that he has lied about his work and the origins of his armor. Also, it is not very accurate in terms of overall assembly and shape of armor. Once you look at screen used or very accurate armor enough, the many inaccuracies are very evident, just compare it to the CRL (https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt). To be approvable in the 501st, you have to accurately represent an original stormtrooper... to an extent. This doesn't mean you have to look like you walked off screen or are the same size as the originals (just look at aubmissions), but this is why there are levels past basic approval like EIB and Centurion. So as long as armor meets the basic requirements outlined in the CRL, the armor can be approved. In addition to meeting CRL standards, the armor also has to fit the wearer well and can't look out of place to be approved. So all in all, SDS can be approved if it meets the basic standards and fits you well, but more modifications would have to happen to reach higher levels of accuracy. This is part of the reason people build their armor feom kits instead of buying already completed armor. You get to choose armor based off of the level of accuracy you want to achieve, price you are willing to spend, and any other factors affecting you (like different size troopers buy different size armor). Building armor makes sure that the armoe is tailored to the builder and fits well and comfortably. The front of the belt is plastic and is riveted (I believe) to white canvas which wraps around and velcroes in the back. To reach basic approval, the back portion of the belt must be white canvas. In reference to you statement about color of armor, this varies and is taken in to account when people buy armor. Differences in color may be because of different material used by sellers for armor, but it is usually ABS. Some people prefer a cleaner look, and choose a brighter white set of armor, while others who like the screen accurate look choose a creamier, duller set. There are quite a few sellers that have an accurate color for their armor (TM for example), but in the end it is up to personal preference. If you are going for accuracy of assembly, armor, and color, as well as having the stormtrooper be completed already, then SDS is not one of the best choices for this. Check out the previously mentioned Vetted Sellers List and some people offer commisioned armor build. RS Prop Masters is one of the most (and arguably the most) accurate set of armor out their. It is cast from an original set of armor (what SDS claimsof their own, but has been proven false) and validated by the original sculptor of the armor (again, a claim that SDS made about themselves, but proven false) Brian Muir. It is one of the most accurate in terms of ABS color and assembly, and they offer completed armor sets built to the buyer's specifications. TM is a fan-sculpted armor set that is near identical to RS, but less of the beat up screen used look. It is also very accurate armor in terms of shape and color, and I believe they offer completed commisioned builds.
  17. Here is a link to my original build thread before life happened..... if anyone is interested..
  18. Does your red line at the bottom of the butt plate take an inch all the way around except the mating edge to the kidney plate OR just the bottom edge of the armor? The reason I ask is if you look at profile shots, the butt and kidney plate meet evenly without having the notch in the kidney plate. What are your thoughts? The other issue I just thought about is that if Ab plate looks correct, then if I cut an inch off of butt plate, the top of the ab and kidney plate will not line up. I had my wife make sure those were aligned during fitting. I don't know if this would be allow, but since I have to put in a shim to fill gap between ab and kidney, I could taper the ship at an angle so there is no step, but it would not be straight across. I know that is only a requirement for centurion, but I want it to look as good as I possibly can.... even I wait to do it until after basic approval.
  19. I like the thigh to end just above the knee cap. I would think that if the thigh rests on the knee cap itself, mobility would be even more difficult than usual. The bottom of the right knee is kind of hidden by the ammo pack. Now, about that thigh/torso relationship... (and this is what works for me, others might like to do it differently!). It really depends on your height. I didn't see you mention if you're a member of the Vertically Challenged Club or not. If you're on the taller trooper end of the spectrum, then you don't have to worry about shortening the thighs at all, and you can just build away. But if you're on the shorter end, you'll want to try to maintain the original shape of the thighs as best as you can while reducing the overall length of the thigh. Your goal is to have the armor fit well with as little black showing as possible. Try to look like one of these troopers. Pay attention to how the curve of the thigh follows the curve of the cod. I've seen many, many troopers just hack and slash away at their thighs (myself included with my first set of thighs!!!) before seeing how the thighs fit relative to the shape of the cod and butt plates. It's ridiculously easy to overtrim the thighs if you're not wearing your torso first! And your torso should fit you well before shortening the thighs. If your torso is too long, then your trims on the thighs will be all out of whack. Does that make things a little clearer for you?
  20. I do think that both halves of the neck line (chest and back plates) and shoulder tabs should be properly re-shaped. The neck is just too "flat" on both pieces, which lends immediately to the shape of the shoulder tabs. Dan did some great work in helping to define a better shape for those parts above. I do feel that the neck opening on the back plate should probably be reshaped a bit as well as the bottom as he indicated.
  21. For EIB you would need to shim the sides as the gap between the ab and kidney can’t be bigger than 1/2inch and if memory serves you’re already aware of that but other than that there’s nothing more you need to do on the torso for EIB and as i said, for Basic you are good to go
  22. Dan and everyone, Thank you for clarifying. When I went to bed last night, I was really feeling encouraged that the end was getting close. I think that suggestions you made above are worth pursuing at some point. I have been following the EIB guidelines as I have been building the whole way through. So, I plan to go for EIB after initial approval. I realize if I don't make some of these corrections suggested now that it might mean some added work and tearup when I do. However, I am really pushing to cross completing my armor and joining your ranks off my to-do / bucket list. I was already heading down the path of the reshaping the neckline, but I did not consider the butt plate. Thank you for the pictures and cut line reference. In the pic, I can see that the FX butt looks a little long compared to picture. I did compare it to ANOVOS kit before separating it from the kidney plate to make sure it was proportional. Do you think that the shoulder tabs on back plate need to be more rounded? If so, that would also pull up the back plate.
  23. The big thing to remember is that in general, all of the comments are offered in the spirit of legitimately helping you to have the best armor that you can. We all want you to be one of us, and we are working with you as part of your team to get you across that line.
  24. Well, the comments from facebook version of this post are implying a lot needs to be done to submit. I was pretty happy with this fitting and look last night before I went to bed. Some of the comments are making me question the fitting above. I plan to have straps to keep chest-to-ab closed and back-to-butt closed. I posted pics to see what needs to change for approval. I understand it is far from EIB and I can never get Centurion with this kit. I just want to join the Empire!
  25. Michael, I have just found your build thread (due to the activity here today) after providing some comments for you on Facebook. You are doing just fine. I feel like your May 17th goal is really quite easily attainable. Just don't get discouraged with it. Anything that slows you down is just a learning experience that will pay off in comfortable skill usage somewhere down the line, so you'll make up the time elsewhere due to what you learn. Be sure to take a look at some Centurion Approval submission threads. The reason that I suggest that is because you will be able to see good examples of what each piece should look like before you begin reshaping or altering your kit. Stay the course, you're doing great.
  26. I agree about the too much info statement. There is a lot but most of it is based on different peoples armor and how to build that specific armor. Basically if your not joining the 501st you can build what you want. The 501st has a set of standards they like to uphold due to closely working with LFL and now of course Disney. I personally built my own armor which was bought from AM. In the end I was happy I did build it because my body size isn’t average so I was able to get a better fit plus there is a satisfaction most people get from building something and being able to say I built that when someone comments on how cool it is. I don’t know much about SDS armor and I’m sure people will chime in but I looked at the site pics quickly and it looks like a few things would need to be changed to join the 501st. Again if that’s not your plan your fine. I’d recommend when you get home and unbox it. Start a thread in the build thread section with pics and we can help you out with anything that’s needed if you do decided to join the 501st. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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