Tim’s first time build (RS Prop Masters ESB TK)

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Ab rivets look pretty good

 

DO's references

For Level 3, three domed head bifurcated (split) rivets approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter are present on the left side of the abdomen and kidney and are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and are painted white.  Note that the measurements are from the center of the rivet.  Rivets on both kidney and ab should line up horizontally.

 

                                                                    

                                                                                Diagram by Billhag

                                                                                     Interior pic showing split (bifurcated) rivets

                                                                 

 

You Han snap looks like it could be a little closer to the edge, looks more than 10mm

Sometimes referred to as the "Han" snap, for Level 3 a single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present.  Note in the photos that it is the bottom of the snap that faces outward and is not painted.  This is also sometimes referred to as the "Han" snap.

 

           

 

 

Sniper plate should be like this

 

NOTE:  For a more screen accurate look, it is suggested that the top of the rear ridge of the sniper plate be aligned with the top ridge of the calf. Also note that 

            the sides are angled rather than curved.

 

                                         

[Nairy[Staff]]

2 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

I think before I'd do anything is to align the tops of the plates on the same level one more time, and possibly re-measure the placements of the marks on the AB, since right now in the image (possibly with the angle) it looks like the top is aligned above the kidney, and still the marks end below the kidney marks! (and yes the measurements are 20, 52, 53 as Glen pointed out, but one millimeter isn't a big deal, however since you are in a state where you're still measuring, might as well do it? )

 

Keep it up, it looks really great! The helmet looks mint by the way! 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi Jonatan,
Thanks for the spot on the alignment. I think what may be deceiving with the image on the ab side is the return edge is giving the appearance it’s higher up. That being said, I’ll certainly check again and include the extra millimetre 
@gmrhodes13 in regards to the sniper knee, your suggested trim line shows to take more off along the top (just checking). Also, looking at the example images you provided, it looks as though it’s trimmed like the below…this may be a trick of the camera so again, just checking and not wanting to sound like I’m contradicting your advice.



And just a clarification on the Han snap placement, the 10mm measurement is taken from curve in the armour, not the very edge (hope that makes sense). I have redrawn this below to clarify. If this is wrong, I’ll understand better if you’re able to draw where you think it should be as you did the sniper knee.




Thanks to you both again for taking the time to help me with this.

Tim


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

31 minutes ago, TrickyT81 said:

Hi Jonatan,
Thanks for the spot on the alignment. I think what may be deceiving with the image on the ab side is the return edge is giving the appearance it’s higher up. That being said, I’ll certainly check again and include the extra millimetre 
@gmrhodes13 in regards to the sniper knee, your suggested trim line shows to take more off along the top (just checking). Also, looking at the example images you provided, it looks as though it’s trimmed like the below…this may be a trick of the camera so again, just checking and not wanting to sound like I’m contradicting your advice.

And just a clarification on the Han snap placement, the 10mm measurement is taken from curve in the armour, not the very edge (hope that makes sense). I have redrawn this below to clarify. If this is wrong, I’ll understand better if you’re able to draw where you think it should be as you did the sniper knee.

Snipe plate should be a constant width top and sides or near too

 

From a recent EIB app

 

 

Many don't have the curve on their sides of the ab, you could check with the DO's for their decision on placement @Deployment Officer Team

[FN1313[TK]]

I’ll also defer to other detachment members involved with higher levels, but the general idea I understood is 10mm from top and bottom and then the center one needs to be right smack equidistant from the top and bottom ones.


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I meant 20mm from the top but yeah better details were gathered.


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[Nairy[Staff]]

When cutting the sniper knee, make sure that when cutting the L shape, in the bend of the L - don't cut it straight edge to edge but rather more of a C shape, as you can see in the example sniper knee that Glen posted above! (hard edges can cause cracking)

Regarding the right ab, are you planning on keeping material out to the blue line or do you plan on cutting it down to the red line? The red line alignment is good for the current Han snap alignment, but I think that you'd have to reposition it if the blue line is the intended line!

Also make sure to not cut away the green marked "ledge", as that is where we put the screws. The only reason I'm ponting that out is because I see a dotted line where my bottom green line is, and want to make sure you don't cut that 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi Jonaton,
Thanks for the extra detail. Just sp you’re aware, the ‘material’ you highlighted with the blue line is just a bit of tape that came unstuck while taking the photo; sorry if that caused confusion.

I’ll be measuring out from the red line you added and aware not to trim the return edge to allow for the screws.

On a separate note, late last year I was diagnosed with Autism. Whilst I’m ‘neuro-typical’ in most circumstances, any areas around detail like this cause me to overthink. With this in mind, you will probably see me ask more questions clarifying advice, get overly-focused on ‘detail’ or request information in a certain way. This is only so I understand information better and to have it make sense in my own mind (which is probably a reason why my build has taken so long).

I just wanted to let you and others watching my thread know just to give some context on why some of my responses may seem different to the typical user.

Thanks in advance for your (and anyone else’s) patience.
Tim


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[Sly11[Admin]]

Glad to see you back and working on your build Tim!

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

On 7/1/2023 at 6:44 PM, TrickyT81 said:

n regards to the sniper knee, your suggested trim line shows to take more off along the top (just checking). Also, looking at the example images you provided, it looks as though it’s trimmed like the below…this may be a trick of the camera so again, just checking and not wanting to sound like I’m contradicting your advice.

 

 

Regarding the sniper knee position, Every armor maker has their sculpture details that needs to be considered when building . In this case the RS sniper knee typically doesn't has a perfect  alignment with the ridges , so what we could suggest to ge it close to the ideal position is like the bellow image.

 

Try to align the Sniper Knee with the shin ridges the more you can and trim a little over the ridge.

 

 

 

Or  a small gap in the lower section is allowed too .

 

 

 

References

 

        

 

 

     

 

 

 

 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi all,
I’ve hit a bit of an issue. When RS sent my build kit, unbeknownst at the time, the ab buttons were vacformed from a whiter shade of ABS (a lot whiter in fact). I have only come to realize this when I’ve come to stick these to my ad armour.

I’ve been back to RS today and they have provided me with a new set but these are now a shade darker.

This is really going to bug me and I’m hoping this is a common enough issue that there is a solution. I’ve read online various ways of whitening ABS so I’m hoping there is a process I can follow to gradually match up the shade until they’re near enough the same.

I’m hoping of course so any advice is welcome.

Thanks,
Tim


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[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Can you post up a photo or two showing them side by side with your ab plate?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Can happen with different delivers of plastic, there is a huge difference in color between makers too.

 

Not sure if this would work but it does for yellowing, Retr0bright I've used it on a 10 year old helmet that yellowed and it worked great. As I say this is for yellowing, may be worth trying but no guarantee as the color may have come from the factory that way. 

 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Thanks, Glen.

[mention]justjoseph63 [/mention], here’s a photo. In certain light the difference is a bit more apparent.




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[Nairy[Staff]]

9 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

Thanks, Glen.

[mention]justjoseph63 [/mention], here’s a photo. In certain light the difference is a bit more apparent.




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I seriously doubt that it will be as noticable when they are cut to size as they are here! The pops of color on them will also aid in taking some more attention off of it.

@gmrhodes13 Does the Retr0bright expose the plastic, or just make it brighter? I understand that a white armor that yellows over time gets more white since we're exposing the good white plastic underneath the yellow, but in this case when it is a little darker - how would that work you think?

 

[Nairy[Staff]]

@TrickyT81 Do you mind posting a similar picture of the first ones they sent you that had a whiter shade? I think in this case both would work when they are cut to size. I'd use whichever ones have the least amount of contrast! 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi Jonaton,
Appreciate the reassurance. Below is a pic of the original buttons I was sent. You will see the 4 button strip is a lot whiter and the rectangle buttons just a shade whiter (but not as bad depending on the light).




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[justjoseph63[Staff]]

As long as the 4 button plate color matches the 5 button plate I think you should be good to go, Tim.  Fantastic job on trimming the large one, and EXCELLENT paint work!  

 

Before attaching the small plate that you will eventually be using I would suggest trimming it down (note how the raised area below it can be seen on all 4 sides in the reference pics).  The corners should be fairly sharp just as you did on the large one.

                                                                                                         Reference images

             

 

Keep up with this level of detail and I see a Centurion badge in your future!  

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Thanks, Joseph. Glad to know I’m on the right track.


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[Nairy[Staff]]

On 7/5/2023 at 10:56 AM, TrickyT81 said:

I think you should be good to go with this pair!

 

/Jonatan

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi folks,
Stepping away from the ab buttons for a moment, please could someone give me some guidance on the trim line for my hand guards?

Right hand





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[TrickyT81[TK]]

And left hand…






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[TrickyT81[TK]]

And left hand…






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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

 

 

 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Thanks, Glen. How far apart would you say each ‘sew hole’ is?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

31 minutes ago, TrickyT81 said:

Thanks, Glen. How far apart would you say each ‘sew hole’ is?

Don't think I've ever seen an actual width for the holes, I did mine at 10mm