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Helotech's 3D-Props DLT-19 Build


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Hello everyone!

After a grueling wait I received my 3D-Props DLT-19!

 

I'll be starting with some photo's of everything you get, and will then go onto the build. 

Along with the basic build of the gun I will be adding the Blast-FX system that I purchase a few months ago. So, this should get interesting.

 

Before I begin I do have to put in one disclaimer, and a review on this build.  I am a military Flight Engineer Instructor and when we instruct new students, we have ways of providing new students what we call Constructive Criticism, or Points to Improve Upon. It is a way of pointing out errors to students in hopes that they improve on future flying lessons.

It is not meant to bash students, but it is an honest way to try and help them.

 

I will use the same technique to address some issues I had with 3D-Props in hopes that they (Eelco Sanders) can improve their customer service. 

 

I write this fully knowing this is a one man operation, and that we should expect some delays in a garage business.

 

At some points in the last 7 months I was truly frustrated with 3D-Props, and held off writing a nasty review, in case Eelco decided to cancel my order and keep my money:

POLICY:
I DO NOT ACCEPT RETURNS OR CANCELLATION

 

I will be going onto Etsy and his website to provide an honest review of my experience with 3D-Props so that other potential customers know what they are getting into.

I then cooled down and went back to my training. I decided to wait until I got my package and then write this review.

 

I placed my order for a DLT-19, paying IN FULL,  through his website on 11 June of 2019. The disclaimer on his page stated:

MADE ON ORDER - CHECK CURRENT WAITING / SHIPPING TIME
Shipping time is determined by the number of orders in queue.

8-9 weeks1  1 Applies to shipping within Netherlands. Information about shipping policies for other countries can be found here:

 

General shipping information

Thank you for buying our product, if the product was out of stock it means it will be made on order. This takes around 8-9 weeks due to the amount of pending orders.

https://www.3d-props.com/about-1/

After placing my order and waiting 3 months (Sept 2019) I emailed Eelco. It took a couple tries (with an automated email response) and he finally got back to me, stating he was busy but would get to my order. 

I emailed once again on 04 Nov, and he stated he was in the middle of a DLT print run and would mine done in a week.

By 03 Jan 2020 I had still not received my DLT and emailed Eelco explaining that I understood he was busy, but it had been 7 months and I had not received my order after .

He got back to me right away and my DLT shipped within 2 days. 

I received it on16 Jan 2020.

So, start to finish it took almost exactly 7 months to get my order.

I did read on FB he was having issues with production due to volume of orders and he was a one man operation.

My simple solution for this: Change the disclaimer on your website and state an order can take 6 months or longer to fill.

 

So my overall impressions don't get lost at the end of this post and a ton of photo's, here is score:

  • Quality of 3D printing: 4.5 / 5  My first experience with 3D printed items. I'm not sure if some of the raised ridges could be improved upon. Minor flash and excess material on some parts. I have seen posts of what can be made of this kit and it is outstanding.
  • Quality of material: 5/5  Looks sturdy and will hopefully stand up to lots of Trooping
  • Ease of assembly: 0 / 5  There are NO instructions for something detailed and consisting of 84 parts. Thankfully, I have very good knowledge of GPMG's (but not MG-34's) and due to my model building / aircraft maintenance technical skills I can figure stuff out, but the exclusion of basic assembly instructions or diagrams is puzzling and dis-heartening. I understand there is this fantastic Forum and awesome Trooper help out there, but I personally think this is unacceptable
  • Customer service: 1 / 5  I gave him a token 1 because he is a one man shop, doing the best he can, and others state he is a good person. It's just my personal dealings with him that bring down his score. I honestly hope he improves and continues to put out good products. I would even order from him again, IF (Big if!!!!) he could deliver in a timely manner.

Okay. enough preaching. Onto the pics!!! Sorry for some grainy shots. My crappy point and shoot...

MBB (medium brown box)

Kox1S1h.jpg

All the stuff. Charlie is waiting for a box fort...

JswpsGs.jpg

Included 2 posters. would have preferred instructions...

NBx7RfS.jpg

Strike off pack sheets for shipment?

ldPRuBy.jpg

Nice customs explanation form

BNpKroL.jpg

All the parts. 62 parts Plastic and metal. 22 parts Hardware

DYAf6pa.jpg

 

Parts broken down for reference by colour. For future help from Troopers (Joseph ….)

I posted on my TK build page about not knowing what half these parts were, and Joseph got back stating to post pics and he could help ID them for the build. I took a page from my modelbuilding expertise and will label everything as follow:

"O"  = Orange

"W" = White

"B" = Black

"H" = Hardware

Two main assemblies, Upper / lower receiver with butt, and barrel assembly. This is how it is when shipped:

tuQ5GLb.jpg

Upper receiver feed cover (the long grey piece behind the orange rectangle) is removeable. Butt can be removed, as well as one or two other pieces. They all slip onto a grey PVC pipe that is used for main structural support:

VqO6eHo.jpg

Barrel assembly includes a length of aluminum tube, and 5 pieces that slip on:

kEQRNwR.jpg

Top of upper receiver:

AsLzMSh.jpg

Bipod and pistol grip parts. Bipod can be pivot opened or closed:

023rqUs.jpg

Grip has a "working" trigger mechanism with reset spring, Comes assembled:

5i94fpM.jpg

Bipod printing ridge details. Not really that bad:

SVa6MbP.jpg

tkYzjxx.jpg

Feed cover ridges. Rearward portion of cover:

1BfvWfw.jpg

Forward portion of cover, near where the removal pin would be and where it pivots upward:

aIJjEjS.jpg

 

Puppy break:

nmaQEgP.jpg

Flash hider:

q0jeRQ7.jpg

Gas plug(maybe....?) detail:

W7cQ2t9.jpg

 

Upper receiver barrel attachment point:

zrs2HOq.jpg

Trigger details:

FrqfjVe.jpg

Ahhhhh man...….:

uoS8U7a.jpg

"O" Parts:

Q80TC5G.jpg

Some O part detail shots. Not sure what some are, or how smooth all these will have to be sanded:

RLuqhib.jpg

7iIdZq6.jpg

Bipod leg ridges. Very minor:

N9qmxCZ.jpg

"B" Parts:

Ckv1gaM.jpg

Grip details:

t1YCKIS.jpg

Cool! Rear graduated sight out to 2000 Meters LOL

DuRN95H.jpg

JwhaMFU.jpg

WTf is this? :)

 

tvfFpsu.jpgis this

And this? :)

pbnHl6u.jpg

er34phw.jpg

YtHVPTd.jpg

PIobp68.jpg

"W" Parts:

XEl7b7L.jpg

x9jUAtP.jpg

wSxB0df.jpg

lbohJAy.jpg

gGrVXBB.jpg

Are the steps supposed to be there? Reference pics of finished and painted parts would be nice...:

GnNA6AK.jpg

Sf14DrK.jpg

BhUQXpd.jpg

"H" Parts:

MVuOX98.jpg

yjbOQh9.jpg

k9BeMiL.jpg

ujq77LE.jpg

44QbjX5.jpg

That's it for now.

Overall I'm happy with the product. 

 

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Mario and Glen! Always good to hear from you.

We’re having a snowstorm here this weekend, so will start on the sanding. 

Waiting to hear what some of the parts are so I can label and plan the build.

Once again, will install the Blast FX system.

Once this blaster is done, then I can rip apart my SDS E-11 and install the Blast FX in it. 

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Weeew.... 8 months of wait time. Im amazed you were that patient.  The model looks good though, can't say I've seen this much detail before. Hopefully sanding out the print lines wont kill your motivation! By the end of this, I have no doubt that you'll have an amazing looking DLT, and some huge muscular arms / hands with all the sanding haha

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Info from another DLT thread that I didn't want to hijack.

 

From Joseph:

I found that this product really helped.  Some serious sanding with 100 grit, then a few light coats, then more sanding, more coats until I got down to 320 grit.  Came out smooth as silk.

One thing that will come in VERY handy is silicone sanding sheets.  You can bend, twist and do what you like to it and it will not tear.  It's a bit pricier than regular sandpaper, but well worth it.  To find it just Google 3M Sandblaster Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets.  I used just one sheet to do an entire TK build and a blaster build and it's still good.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-oleum-Gray-Filler-Primer/33616414?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4384&adid=22222222227022202608&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80421617929&wl4=pla-177653161249&wl5=9010526&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=33616414&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI97vfyvWM5wIVh5WzCh2q8wkmEAQYAyABEgJ7JfD_BwE

 

Sanding sheets:

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/3m-pro-grade-precision-ultra-flexible-sanding-sheets/6000195545072

 

Thanks Joseph.

 

Appreciate the info. I have a similar paint product in the garage (I think). If not I will pick some up.

I was wondering what the best way to tackle the initial sanding would be.

Because there are allot of flat surfaces and 90 degree edges. I may wrap the sheets around regular sponge sanding blocks or wood. This should help to prevent me sanding more in one area than another because of uneven finger pressure, thereby creating a "wavy" effect.  

 

Did you use an electric palm sander on anything? Would it be overkill?

I think it would speed up the process, reduce sanding fatigue, and it has a flat surface to prevent pressure points.

 

I haven't touched the plastic yet so I don't know how hard it is to sand.

 

Gotta check my paint spraying mask to make sure the filters are good (safety first!). 

 

Also, if anyone one has experience with this build, and a step by step for assembly, that would be awesome! I'm not sure if I should contact Eelco to see if he has anything like this.

It's funny. There are a ton of How To guides for armor out there, but I haven't found anything for blasters...

 

Could this be the first....? :)

 

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Spray putty on some parts and filler primer on others will be your friend once some base sanding is done.
Looking forward to seeing this all come together.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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On 1/19/2020 at 1:09 AM, Helotech said:

(...)   There are a ton of How To guides for armor out there, but I haven't found anything for blasters...   (...)

For blasters we have this - okay, it only covers the Blastech E-11 and is not specific for 3D-printed things, but the chapters #03, #27, #28 and #29 might still be useful for this build.

Edited by T-Jay
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I contacted Eelco at 3D-Props and he sent me assembly diagrams!  I just have to marry up the parts in my pics to the diagrams.

So, big thank you to him.

 

I have done some minor sanding but had to stop.

 

I'm in the RCAF and was just notified that I am being posted (moved) from Ontario to BC. I leave in a month, wife and household goods to follow this summer.

 

I'll manage to squeeze in 2 more troops before I go, but this build will have to be put on hold for about a month. I won't be bringing my armour with me as I will be busy there. I WILL bring the DLT to work on during my down time in the military barracks.

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  • 11 months later...

Okay, so I just realized it's almost exactly a year since I started this thread. Time for an update I guess....

I think I am about 80% done.

Since posting, the world went to crap and I moved across the country and started a new job in the RCAF. Lots happening.

 

I'll post a ton of pics here about the DLT. A few points:

  • I'm trying to decide where to place the displays supplied in the BlastFx kit. The scope and rounds remaining displays. I don't like the round counter displayed on the bottom of gun as this doesn't seem logical. I may go my own way and install it on the back of the left side "aluminum box" with scope display so that is faces the shooter. Makes more sense to me.
  • I have painted and assembled most items. 
  • I was installing the BlastFx elextronics and a few wire solder connections to components snapped. I think the overall quality is pretty freakin fantastic, but the wires are very thin and while trying to manipulate components into the blaster the connections failed. I soldered the items, but then some weird electronic stuff started happening. I got in contact with TRamp (fantastic service!) and after lots of back and forth troubleshooting, I sent my DLT and E11 components back to him in the UK. He is working on the stuff now, so the build is on hold.
  • After a ton of research on the DLT and looking at pics of actual MG34's, I decided to upgrade much of the hard ware to make the blaster look more realistic. The hardware provided by 3Dprops is very functional, but not "real world" accurate
  • A side note about the 3D props hardware: He does provide a schematic, but it is very hard to discern where each bolt, screw washer or nut goes. Better diagrams or instructions are required.
  • Having spent DAYS and WEEKS looking at MG34's and other blaster builds, I can say that this kit is fantastic! Very accurate dimensionally and in detail.
  • Another knit-pick is the bipod build-up. The bipod is split halfway up, and an aluminum plate is used as a joining plate on the inside between the two parts. I have glued this various ways and it has failed at least 3 times on one leg. It is attached now but there is a hairline crack between the two parts. Sanding and filling is required, with the obvious sanding and repaint.

Build notes:

  • I sanded like crazy, and used primer / filler rattle cans between sanding. 
  • Primed with 2 to 3 layers of black rattle can.
  • There are Several different colours for MG34's, depending on quality, restoration, year made, etc. I didn't want a flat black, so repainted most components with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black. A very dark charcoal colour. Looks much better.
  • I'm going easy on weathering. This is meant to replicate a blaster used on the Death Star Garrison, not in a swamp or desert.
  • I mainly used the well known limited photos of the screen used DLT. Highlights and various scratches were done with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum and XF-56 Metallic Grey.
  • I used graphite powder lightly rubbed along big flat surfaces to show wear and add visual interest. It was rubbed heavily on some corners, and also used on the two rings that join the receiver to the butt.
  • Butt was sprayed with rattle can Rustoleum Satin Dark Walnut to replicate the bakelight material. I then sponged some lighter buff and black colour on it.
  • The barrel T-strips will be replace by WannaWanga items. They are excellent quality and I won't need to sand like a madman...

 

Overall pieces

kn8L0zD.jpg

 

Wannawanga strips on right

RRC1ism.jpg

 

Front assembly; Wire is from barrel LED flash emitter. I asked TRAmp to install a connector and split wire in two. This way I can break down the DLT for transport. Barrel cooling jacket and barrel will be glued the front after feeding wire through.

Hk8T6TJ.jpg

 

Replaced bipod attachment hardware with more accurate bolt and split pin. There is a bit of scratched paint on washer from using tools to bend pin. This will be touched up along with those little areas of orange plastic showing through

 

yksyJJl.jpg

 

LED emitter

The front site is moveable (pivots up and down) as well

SErZVwE.jpg

 

jTnipRB.jpg

 

Weathering

 

ZOuyBiS.jpg

 

Bipod legs

gLNaejX.jpg

 

Darn bipod crack....

QfZVZFs.jpg

 

Feed cover. Replaced hardware with more screen accurate. I cur off the head of a large lag bolt and glued on opening latch.

Wo7Z50N.jpg

 

 

Lots of sanding to get rid of 3D print lines

iOih7Xa.jpg

pXNGxNm.jpg

 

 

vEfkwGk.jpg

 

 

Reciever:

 

V0jkxY2.jpg

 

Hairspray method for chipping

4nC5uLg.jpg

 

m86oSur.jpg

 

Rear sight moveable

iWxEys8.jpg

 

Extended peep sight. Numbers will be painted in.

G5WUI3q.jpg

 

Reciever bottom. Main support tube is PVC pipe. I cut holes in bottom for easy wiring access to trigger wires. Will be cleaned up.

 

YeOwI0V.jpg

 

Top view into receiver, towards the butt end. I cut the PVC pipe to have a big area for wiring and eventually a battery pack for everything. I kept a small piece of the PVC and re-glued it back in. This tab will eventually hold a magnet that will be used to secure the back of the feed cover.

 

8nOoFrW.jpg

 

lOa423B.jpg

 

Reciever was printed in 2 parts, front and back. This is the seem line that I filled but then cracked. Will need to fill and repaint...

 

hLNm2KJ.jpg

 

Recover and cover pivoted up

9v9zqCR.jpg

 

Cover just sitting down on receiver. A little force is used to squeeze two parts together. This is where the magnet will hopefully work.

 

gSdDW3R.jpg

 

I also scribed the grip marks on the latch

 

OcVromB.jpg

 

 

Butt colour. This is actually a little lighter. Dark colour due to lighting.

 

5f8mlkX.jpg

 

Over exposed to show colour variations

7XXXSjj.jpg

 

Sanded print lines smooth, then scribed the gripping grooves. Also drilled a hole and inserted the head of a lag bolt. Hole to be cleaned up.

t2L6XnN.jpg

 

Note the 2 rings. These was simply done by masking the butt and receiver, then applying the graphite powder and buffing like crazy. Now looks like a separate metal piece.

 

eERdc5N.jpg

 

Less exposed pic

 

Lv4dSOV.jpg

 

 

Partially assembled. This is how far blaster will break down for transport.

 

mZBJYSR.jpg

 

Sanded disk smooth, and used hairspray technique to weather.

uCRmFwv.jpg

 

Supplied cocking handle with bolt. Can be unscrewed for storage and transport. It is way too short and thin. To attempt to make it bigger I started gluing plastic sheet on it.

W1m6WyV.jpg

 

I bought a toilet repair pipe at Home Depot that looked like right thickness. This will slip over the supplied piece and get glued together. I have to figure out a way to do knurling. 

AhdjJ4d.jpg

 

98D5MCu.jpg

 

Barrel shroud

uXOphmG.jpg

 

XfJExRp.jpg

 

Some hardware to replace supplied stuff. The small pack of screw posts will be used to replicate the domed screws on grips.

akObu0p.jpg

 

 

And from when I first got the blaster. I have no clue what the part, 2nd from left, is or where it fits. It is the oval with hole drilled.

Once again, the assembly instructions are lacking.

7iIdZq6.jpg

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Thanks! Still lots to do.

Once it’s done I have a couple 3D printed E11’s to assemble. One will get the other Blast FX kit installed. I will then build a blaster “charging” and storage rack for display similar to one in security room on the DS. I will make it a multipurpose SE-14 / E11 / DLT charging station.

With the 3D printed SE-14 I just got the files for, I will have a nice little arsenal. Pew pew!!!

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Hey Jonas!!!

Ya, I can't wait to get his thing done and off my build desk.

This, plus 2 E11's. a ton of plastic models, a brand new 3D printer to learn about, has got my hobby mental level maxed out!

 

I was going to start on a scout, which is by far my favorite Trooper, but after watching Mando the wife turns to me and says "Why don't you make a Boba outfit?"

After I laughed I asked "seriously?" and she said YUP!

 

Sooooooo....... I have started the research, joined the Bounty Hunters guild, and have started ordering (small things for now) parts. This will be a long labor of love, but I'm going for and ESB Boba build!!!

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Does anyone now the length of a real MG34 cocking handle tube? Basically, how far it sticks out of gun from the receiver.

Diameter of the handle would be helpful as well.

My attempts at scratch building one using pipe above aren't working.

I was going to attempt a 3D printed one.

 

Other news I've started printing the SE-14 with the awesome files from Glen! I'll be starting a post on that blaster forum page. I have all the small parts done. Next is the main grip housing and barrel / body.

 

Yet more news: My Blast FX electronics were fixed and are hopefully shipped from UK. Once they get here I will pull the big blaster out of the closet and try to finish it off.

 

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