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FOTK PAINT QUESTIONS


Ian_the_gonk_droid

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3 hours ago, Ian_the_gonk_droid said:

Hello!

What would you lovely people recommend for a FOTK budget paint job?

I went with the professional paint job route. Let me know if you're interested in the paint code

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Locally (down under) I found an automotive shop standard white acrylic matched the Anovos helmet spot on and they always have sales ;)

 

I like using acrylic automotive paint as it dries very quick between coats unlike a lot of cheaper enamels, some taking up to 24 hours so keep that in mind when thinking of price 

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I went with the professional paint job route. Let me know if you're interested in the paint code


Is this the code?

68dd9cd3b06369d9e21322e39d6ee6e6.jpg

Shared in numerous FB groups between 2016-2018. Original source unknown.


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18 hours ago, JAFO said:

 


Is this the code?

68dd9cd3b06369d9e21322e39d6ee6e6.jpg

Shared in numerous FB groups between 2016-2018. Original source unknown.


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Yep that's mine

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On 1/1/2020 at 12:32 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Locally (down under) I found an automotive shop standard white acrylic matched the Anovos helmet spot on and they always have sales ;)

 

I like using acrylic automotive paint as it dries very quick between coats unlike a lot of cheaper enamels, some taking up to 24 hours so keep that in mind when thinking of price 

Hi Glen. You mentioned a down under paint that matched the Anovos helmet? I'm in NZ (not Aus). Was it Supercheap Auto? Or something else? And could you share the specific brand and colour (and any product codes?). It'd be great to get a local good match. Thanks

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13 hours ago, Hutt-trooper said:

Hi Glen. You mentioned a down under paint that matched the Anovos helmet? I'm in NZ (not Aus). Was it Supercheap Auto? Or something else? And could you share the specific brand and colour (and any product codes?). It'd be great to get a local good match. Thanks

Supercheap Auto is an automotive parts supplier here in Australia, here is the paint it is a base white acrylic they also sell by the litre

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Are folks getting their armor professionally painted or doing it themselves with rattle cans?  I've basically reached the point that my armor is about finished, just need to get it painted now to finish it finally and not sure what route to take personally.  I know lot of folks use the rustoleum cans themselves but question the durability of it with trooping.  If I seek an auto paint shop to do it, I'm possibly gonna get stuck with a huge bill possibly, but a longer lasting paint job.  

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5 hours ago, PanzerKraken said:

Are folks getting their armor professionally painted or doing it themselves with rattle cans?  I've basically reached the point that my armor is about finished, just need to get it painted now to finish it finally and not sure what route to take personally.  I know lot of folks use the rustoleum cans themselves but question the durability of it with trooping.  If I seek an auto paint shop to do it, I'm possibly gonna get stuck with a huge bill possibly, but a longer lasting paint job.  

I will be painting my kit myself. I learned during the process of building my galactic marine that painting isn't difficult and is actually kind of relaxing for me.  It will also save money from paying someone to do it.

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6 hours ago, PanzerKraken said:

Are folks getting their armor professionally painted or doing it themselves with rattle cans?  I've basically reached the point that my armor is about finished, just need to get it painted now to finish it finally and not sure what route to take personally.  I know lot of folks use the rustoleum cans themselves but question the durability of it with trooping.  If I seek an auto paint shop to do it, I'm possibly gonna get stuck with a huge bill possibly, but a longer lasting paint job.  

Rattle cans for me too, with a clear coat it’s just as durable as can be:duim:

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Rattle cans worked great for me, acrylic automotive paint base coat and clear coats, just don't go too heavy so you prevent runs ;) 

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Are folks getting their armor professionally painted or doing it themselves with rattle cans?  I've basically reached the point that my armor is about finished, just need to get it painted now to finish it finally and not sure what route to take personally.  I know lot of folks use the rustoleum cans themselves but question the durability of it with trooping.  If I seek an auto paint shop to do it, I'm possibly gonna get stuck with a huge bill possibly, but a longer lasting paint job.  


The first question to answer should always be “what can you afford?” If you can’t afford an auto job don’t pay out for one.

I’ve seen great auto finishes and I’ve seen bad auto finishes. I’ve also seen auto finishes that turn bad when the paint underneath cracks and spiders as the kit flexes.

With the right rattle cans and the right technique you can create an awesome finish. Furthermore, if you ever need to carry out touch-ups (and chances are you will) you can manage these yourself.

At the end of the day make the decision that’s right for you.


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I never had good experience with the 2x Rustoleum in the past with other paint jobs so guess I'm kinda leary on it.  I've had folks recommend the Rustoleum high performance series of paints though, anyone ever use those on armor? 


RustOleum 2x is not an official paint. It was recommended for the Anovos kits but has no connection to production.

Go for a paint you’re happy with.


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4 hours ago, PanzerKraken said:

I never had good experience with the 2x Rustoleum in the past with other paint jobs so guess I'm kinda leary on it.  I've had folks recommend the Rustoleum high performance series of paints though, anyone ever use those on armor? 

Had all sorts of issues with Rustoleum in the past myself on a clone build and I do prefer acrylic automotive paint, dries quickly, can also be sanded and polished, basic white matched the Anovos helmet so was lucky for me, can purchase in rattle cans too.

 

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Good automotive paint job does NOT crack underneath, if anyone says otherwise then that's just ignorance on their part. Most modern automobile bumpers are flexible so must be the paint and you don't see those cracking unless impacted. So, if you can afford it a professional paint job go for it, it will last for years.  

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Good automotive paint job does NOT crack underneath, if anyone says otherwise then that's just ignorance on their part. Most modern automobile bumpers are flexible so must be the paint and you don't see those cracking unless impacted. So, if you can afford it a professional paint job go for it, it will last for years.  


That’s the key thing isn’t it, you need to KNOW you’re going to get a GOOD auto paint job.

I’m only sharing info I have seen shared by another trooper who got a pro-auto job - single stage urethane with flex additive. Here’s the result after a number of troops...

92de5e9128c996a984865e20b0bcee25.jpg

A number of factors at play here but proof nonetheless of what can occur.


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4 minutes ago, JAFO said:

 


That’s the key thing isn’t it, you need to KNOW you’re going to get a GOOD auto paint job.

I’m only sharing info I have seen shared by another trooper who got a pro-auto job - single stage urethane with flex additive. Here’s the result after a number of troops...

A number of factors at play here but proof nonetheless of what can occur.


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Again, bad paint job. Reputable painter, good quality.

 

Pro paint or rattle can, you get what you pay for. Would you rattle can your car? lol 

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Again, bad paint job. Reputable painter, good quality.
 
Pro paint or rattle can, you get what you pay for. Would you rattle can your car? lol 


And that’s why it’s important to raise this point so people are aware of possible outcomes. I know the person who paid for this job didn’t expect this to happen, and they did their research and chose an auto sprayer they trusted.

You pay your money, you take your choice, but there are no guarantees.


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14 minutes ago, JAFO said:

You pay your money, you take your choice, but there are no guarantees.



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Looking at the photo a few things could have happened here, either there's too much filler, too much paint, the paint never fully cured or wasn't mixed properly. All these would have been caught and prevented by an experienced painter. You like to brag about your sources so I'll let you in on a little secret, I've been in the automotive industry for 30+ years. Done properly the likelihood of it ever crackling is very slim.

 

Back to the point, rattle can paint (nothing wrong with it) has a little to no protective properties, if it did the auto industry like many others would adopt the formula.   

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Looking at the photo a few things could have happened here, either there's too much filler, too much paint, the paint never fully cured or wasn't mixed properly. All these would have been caught and prevented by an experienced painter. You like to brag about your sources so I'll let you in on a little secret, I've been in the automotive industry for 30+ years. Done properly the likelihood of it ever crackling is very slim.
 
Back to the point, rattle can paint (nothing wrong with it) has a little to no protective properties, if it did the auto industry like many others would adopt the formula.   


Great advice Tony!


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