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mlarsen

mlarsen's ANH TK Build (AP trimmed kit)

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7 1/4 to 7 1/2 is fine the CRL dimension is approximate length.

 

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11 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

7 1/4 to 7 1/2 is fine the CRL dimension is approximate length.

 

gallery_12157_51_24375.jpg

33316295901_b93418e54a_o.jpg

Mine is a hair over, about 194mm.  I didn't glue the end caps on and they can come off.  I could remove a few mm on each end cap or is this close enough?

xMSkIyP.jpg

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I cleaned up my helmet some last night.  Still some more cleaning up to do but it is getting there.  

 

Removed blue strip that was half hidden under ear pieces.

Added the phantom teeth.

n61sJBl.jpg

TUFaIoV.jpg

 

Painted hovi tip mics white with scuff marks.  I need to clean up the vocoder some, I don't like the way it looks.

bZQHgeu.jpg

 

Also did some work on the shins and applied white industrial strength velcro to the back covestrip.

hYryCYo.jpg

Iw17loW.jpg

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looking great!!  :duim:

 

Here's some vocoder reference photos

 

Xn16QgX-O3S2LULpwxpd_H-_PSfTRpCUVlqrErIq

 

kBnHKEXfeYG6Ez3QrhsxxRyp2IyQea6nBKPaVNKW

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I thought I would take some initial fittings before I work on the other thigh.

 

Should I trim more of the thigh?  I can fit about a finger in on each side of the knee, some padding on 1 side should keep it more aligned.

Need to make sure I space the elbow and wrist so an even amount of black shows.

Align drop boxed better at the end of the belt and pull them up a bit.  I plan to glue the elastic to keep them in place.

Gap between thigh and cod piece ok?  I have a belt with a piece of black elastic on it and I still need to keep pulling up the thigh piece.  Maybe nylon strapping would work better.  

gbp9C17.jpg

 

Reduce black in shoulder gap in picture below.

dRTiZ4T.jpg

 

Again make sure drop boxes are better aligned in picture below.

Keep spacing between the elbow and wrist the same.

Align ab and kidney plate better.

okaCrE8.jpg

 

Align rivets better and paint white in picture below.

Keep spacing between elbow and wrist the same.

Align drop boxes better.

sl8skia.jpg

 

As always any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Edited by mlarsen
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Looking great. 

When it comes to the thigh, I would leave it as is.  A bit of extra room is better than too little.  Foam padding will help if it is even needed.  The space between the thigh and cod looks good.  It is all about balance - if you are a taller trooper so you can get away with a bit more black there than some - just so long as the black at the knee is proportional. 

 

You are really moving along with this build. Keep up the awesome work!  :duim:

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Also, the thermal detonator looks good to me.  My two cents.

 

If your OCD requires you to trim a few mm off each cap, keep in mind that you will need to move your clips outwards a bit as well.

 

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18 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Its the normal way of doing it

Yeah, sure.  Now it is - ever since I originally invented it.  :P  I also invented the internet and oxygen.  So... you're welcome.

 

 

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Looking good , you're going in the right path trooper!! :Stormtrooper_walk_south:

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I am assuming there is too much gap between the lower rear thigh pieces and will need to be filled in?

2LSVJ10.jpg

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It will look alot better if you do. Your cover strips look a bit long at the top and just to mention the original suits snipped/rounded the corners - keep up the great work:salute:

Zgmoqvy.png

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2 hours ago, mlarsen said:

I am assuming there is too much gap between the lower rear thigh pieces and will need to be filled in?

2LSVJ10.jpg

After trimming you can use a long block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around to help make the cut a little straighter.

 

Adding a piece of scrap ABS plastic behind with also help. 

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I agree I think the rear cover strips could be better.  Rounded at the tops and bottoms?  For the gaps use Plasticweld, let dry, sand smooth and paint white?

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18 minutes ago, mlarsen said:

I agree I think the rear cover strips could be better.  Rounded at the tops and bottoms?  For the gaps use Plasticweld, let dry, sand smooth and paint white?

Cover strips should be either rounded or cut on angle on both tops and bottoms 

 

Most use ABS paste for any gaps but it you want to fill and paint that would be ok also.

 

IMG_20160313_154227.jpg DSC02600.jpg
 

 

 

 

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The back of my thighs are the same with the ridges from each side being of different angles and depths. So It would require reshaping the ridge to make them line up perfectly which is likely a challenge.  You can cut the ridges out of the back of thighs as shown in screen grabs from movie,  I might do this but it's a decision for later.  The CRL does not restrict this for thighs but for shins at lvl 3, "Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges".

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20 minutes ago, husky68 said:

The CRL does not restrict this for thighs but for shins at lvl 3, "Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges".

That was s mishap when updating the CRL, the mobility cuts regarding the thighs have the same restrictions as the shins - not going past the raised ridges. We’re still waiting for it to be updated.

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Hey Robert, for my build that I didn't trim the back of the legs I clamped the pieces into the proper position and dipped into a hot bath to attempt to reshape them a little.  I think I also tried a heat gun, but I don't recommend a heat gun if you have not used one before (it can be tricky to work with).  Once I reshaped the parts a bit, I then glued with a piece of abs along the inside - I used a bunch of E6000 and kept it clamped for a couple days.  Then I filled in the gap with a bit of ABS paste. It was a lot easier than it sounds.  You probably don't even need to reshape before gluing.

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Time for the sniper knee.  How does it look?  It is off centered a bit but it lines up on sides and the front looks balanced horizontally.

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And some more fittings.  As always any feedback is greatly appreciated.  I feel like I am getting close to basic approval.

Need to apply some glue to keep the drop boxes in place.  Thighs should go down a bit?

ABAbmUU.jpg

 

Need to make sure thermal detonator is aligned better and I may trim the bottom thighs were the gap is and upper shins to allow for better movement.  I also need to make sure the rear shins are better aligned when I velcro them shut. 

mn6QXYY.jpg

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I made my own helmet fans with a 4 AA battery pack attached to the helmet with industrial strength velcro so I can remove if needed, cords are clean and hidden.  Where do most of you place the battery pack.  I put it on the right side but now the helmet leans to that side, some additional padding may help.  There isn't enough room in the back of the helmet for the battery pack.

vuZabeM.jpg

WvGmSAr.jpg

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Very nice, I started using a single battery pack with both fans but then opted for a separate pack for each fan, I found the batteries can die during a long troop if on two fans, also found that one fan was enough to use as two fans were playing havoc with my eyes running, must have sensitive eyes I guess.

 

Great build and looking good, from what I can see I'd try to reduce the gap at your elbows, perhaps biceps down a little and forearms brought back. Drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt section, I found a few dabs of E6000 on the elastic helps them stay in place. Also just watch the alignment of your armor cover strips.

 

Good luck and hope to see you approved very soon. 

 

 

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I got my TK ID!  TK-12929

I have a Quest Designs E-11 blaster.  Can I go on to EI without weathering my blaster?  I plan to do so eventually.

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Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks.

 

For EI there is no requirement in regards to weathering ;) 

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