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mlarsen

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by mlarsen

  1. My armor is showing some battle damage. My TD clip is rubbing up against the armor. I need to add more soft velcro to the metal clip to prevent further rubbing. Any advice on how I can fix this?
  2. Matthew Larsen TK-12929 Centurion Letter Sha Sha http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/12929-centurion.png
  3. Thanks for your feedback! I plan to work on belt and sniper knee when time allows.
  4. Armor Maker: AP Helmet Maker: AP Blaster Type: Quest Designs Height: 6'1" Weight: 175lbs. Boots Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: AP Hand Plates Type: AP Electronics: ICOMM with Aker Neck Seal Type: Darman's Props Holster Maker: AP Link to EIB approval. Based on my EIB I moved the shins down and eliminated the black between the chest plate and shoulders the best I could. I also tightened up the strapping to eliminate seam on the left side and removed the return edge on the shoulder bells. Removed some paint on buttons based on EIB review. Centered the knee plate a bit better based on my EIB review. Raised brow based on EIB review and fixed screw placement, cleaned up vocoder.
  5. I agree, the AP decals don't go pass the raised button, I like the look of the decals much better. I jumped the gun and removed them based on my EIB review. Oh well maybe I can get another set of decals.
  6. Painted the ab buttons this evening. Is this what they are looking for with Centurion approval?
  7. Working on feedback from my EIB for Centurion application. Raised the brow a little, I was able to just pull up the brow and it stayed in place. Tightened the strapping on left and right sides. Removed some return edge from the shoulder bells, maybe could do some more. For the ab buttons I used the decals provided in the AP kit. What have others done? Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button. I may remove them and paint by hand.
  8. Here are some additonal photos showing the white inside of the hovi mic tips. Let me know if you need anything else.
  9. Added additional photos to the original post of the white elastic connecting chest and back plate as well as the ab plate without the belt.
  10. I will add additional photos of the white elastic connecting chest and back plate as well as the ab plate without the belt later today. Hopefully these photos are ok, I am really not liking how dark/green they appear. Need better lighting I guess.
  11. Armor Maker: AP Helmet Maker: AP Blaster Type: Quest Designs Height: 6'1" Weight: 175lbs. Boots Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: AP Hand Plates Type: AP Electronics: ICOMM with Aker Neck Seal Type: Darman's Props Holster Maker: AP Full Body: Armor Details: Helmet Details: Blaster: Accessory Details: Added chest/ab connection showing elastic and front of ab plate without belt:
  12. I got my TK ID! TK-12929 I have a Quest Designs E-11 blaster. Can I go on to EI without weathering my blaster? I plan to do so eventually.
  13. I made my own helmet fans with a 4 AA battery pack attached to the helmet with industrial strength velcro so I can remove if needed, cords are clean and hidden. Where do most of you place the battery pack. I put it on the right side but now the helmet leans to that side, some additional padding may help. There isn't enough room in the back of the helmet for the battery pack.
  14. TK-12929 Requesting Access! https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=31201
  15. And some more fittings. As always any feedback is greatly appreciated. I feel like I am getting close to basic approval. Need to apply some glue to keep the drop boxes in place. Thighs should go down a bit? Need to make sure thermal detonator is aligned better and I may trim the bottom thighs were the gap is and upper shins to allow for better movement. I also need to make sure the rear shins are better aligned when I velcro them shut.
  16. Time for the sniper knee. How does it look? It is off centered a bit but it lines up on sides and the front looks balanced horizontally.
  17. I agree I think the rear cover strips could be better. Rounded at the tops and bottoms? For the gaps use Plasticweld, let dry, sand smooth and paint white?
  18. I am assuming there is too much gap between the lower rear thigh pieces and will need to be filled in?
  19. I thought I would take some initial fittings before I work on the other thigh. Should I trim more of the thigh? I can fit about a finger in on each side of the knee, some padding on 1 side should keep it more aligned. Need to make sure I space the elbow and wrist so an even amount of black shows. Align drop boxed better at the end of the belt and pull them up a bit. I plan to glue the elastic to keep them in place. Gap between thigh and cod piece ok? I have a belt with a piece of black elastic on it and I still need to keep pulling up the thigh piece. Maybe nylon strapping would work better. Reduce black in shoulder gap in picture below. Again make sure drop boxes are better aligned in picture below. Keep spacing between the elbow and wrist the same. Align ab and kidney plate better. Align rivets better and paint white in picture below. Keep spacing between elbow and wrist the same. Align drop boxes better. As always any feedback is greatly appreciated.
  20. I cleaned up my helmet some last night. Still some more cleaning up to do but it is getting there. Removed blue strip that was half hidden under ear pieces. Added the phantom teeth. Painted hovi tip mics white with scuff marks. I need to clean up the vocoder some, I don't like the way it looks. Also did some work on the shins and applied white industrial strength velcro to the back covestrip.
  21. Mine is a hair over, about 194mm. I didn't glue the end caps on and they can come off. I could remove a few mm on each end cap or is this close enough?
  22. Got it thanks, that is what I was thinking. I like your suggested design for the shin closures.
  23. Complete overlap of rear shins and connected with velcro (no velcro on coverstrip) is not allowed correct?
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