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Helotech SDS Hero build

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Thanks! That clears it up much better.

 

I was confused as I had concentrated on reading the EI and Centurion approval requests, and saw that people were being accepted to those higher levels through the forum. I was mistaken and thought the same applied for Basic.

 

Much appreciated, yet again.

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Once you are an approved 501st Stormtrooper you can the request higher access here on the forum 

Then once you have higher access you can then submit for L2 EIB approval and if approved you can submit for L3 Centurion. 

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SO, the final thing for the night.

 

The TD is finally finished except for painting the screws black.. I have painted the screws with one primer coat and will probably add another before a couple layers of semi-gloss black.

 

I was only able to find 25mm aluminum, so that is what I used. The top bends of the bracket may be squeezed tighter.

 

I drilled the holes in the bracket and attached with one screw. After starting the bend to at least the second screw hole, I removed it.

TaV9SDA.jpg

 

HLLRbyr.jpg

 

I then bent the aluminum around a 1 3/4" pipe I had laying about. This gave it a nice tight curl. It basically snapped onto the TD when I reinstalled it.

Jzl2jMo.jpg

 

Once it was installed I used various clamps and scrap metal stock to bend it into the bracket shape. The back tab is 2 3/4" long, with the final little bend about 1/2"

K2FNrgp.jpg

 

z37djov.jpg

 

42JC8X1.jpg

 

First primer coat for screws.

M05h9g6.jpg

 

More to follow. 

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Nice work, almost there.

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Looks great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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So, I finally re-submitted for pre-approval!!!

 

 

I know it's not required, but it gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling to know I'm on the right track to apply to my Garrison.

Once that is done, I start some mods to head to Expert status.

 

I did some mods to help the armor fit better:

 

I swapped out the left side elastics I installed and put proper length webbing.

This along with an additional snap added to the right side elastic REALLY snugged up the armor!

I have to suck in my gut a bit, but the side gaps have been reduced significantly.

nOuASa7.jpg

 

Right side elastic now has 3 snaps. LOL

I will swap this out (or leave it...), depending on how much I have to eat that day...

 

k2u4Zbh.jpg

 

Put two large tabs of hook Velcro on the chest and Ab, far enough apart that when I use a length of 2" elastic stretched almost as far as it will go, it draws the two pieces together.

QCamJh4.jpg

 

The Velcro tab from the bell to bicep won't work. When I stretch the bell to shoulder attachment elastic and try to do the snap, the Velcro pulls apart. I will install a snap on the strap instead.

2gvWK8Z.jpg

 

SO, using my previous to do list:

  • Buy thicker white elastic string for shoulder strapping. I have thin double looped thin elastic to hold ribbed shoulder to white elastic strap underneath. DONE
  • Fix the belt snaps so they don't pop off Ab. I have bent the ABS belt, and replaced one male snap on the Ab, but the snaps still fail after a bit or won't even hold. I'll replace both female snaps on the belt and see if that helps. Belt snaps still popping off. I haven't replaced the female portions on the belt. Is there a link to snap troubleshooting anywhere?
  • Possibly Install interior strapping to help raise the cod. DONE
  • Finish bringing TD to Centurion DONE
  • I still have to trim, paint and install the new Hero ear pieces. I will have to look through threads on how to properly do this so there is a tight fit with little open seam between ears and helmet. The ATS ear pieces, while excellent quality, don't have very good trim lines. Will start on this after Basic approval
  • Finish helmet electronics. Not required but I wanna get it done. Ongoing
  • The biggest (and hopefully only) issue that will keep me from Centurion will be those pesky bells,... This is still an issue. No matter how I position my arms and shoulders, the bells won't move closer to the chest. I may have to order bells from ATA...
  • Next biggest Centurion hold back is the Ab / Kidney opening. I'll leave this to last as I want to hold off filling in the left side holes, adding shims and redoing all that stuff. This has gotten much better after adjusting and replacing some straps. A few more lbs lost and they should close up.
  • The thigh straps to my belt still need to have a loop sewn in them. I just wrapped them around the belt to make sure they were at the proper distance from  the cod/Ab.

 

So, just awaiting pre-approval now...

 

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Hey all,

 

I've asked this before, but never got a response.

 

I have tried several ways to fit my shoulder bells so they reach the chest armor. It is a no-go and it will hold me back from Centurion.

I think someone at SDS may have trimmed the front and back to small. There is not enough material to wrap around my biceps and reach front and back.

  • The biceps are just above being snug to my arms. I don't have huge muscles...
  • The return edge at bottom of bells is all removed.

Does any one have the following measurements? 

My bell is approx. 10 3/4 inches on the curve.

If my bells are to small in this measurement I may need to order new bells from ATA.

 

RKYcuXS.jpg

 

 

 

 

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I found ATA are on the smaller side compared to others. You could purchase shoulder bells from another maker but the problem there is that the colors may not match. From memory RS have some pretty big shoulder bells but I'm not sure about there color match to SDS.

 

Have a look through some of the build threads, will give you an idea of different armor pieces sizing.

 

Also looking through your pre approval thread the bells look like they could come in more by bringing the shoulder bell strap further forward on your shoulder strapping, it that makes sense.

 

Something like this, closer to the front so they want to pull inwards.

 

Image result for shoulder strap bell site:www.whitearmor.net

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ATA is almost an exact colour match if the ears I got from him are any indication. I didn't think there would be that much size or colour difference between armour makers.

I'll try to do some adjusting of the shoulder strapping as I don't want to order.

 

First off, your solution sounds great and simple, which I will try, but there may be a couple problems:

  1. Unfortunately, I don't have that much wiggle room to move the shoulder female snaps. See below. I think this what you meant? :)
  2. As I think about it, I may run into another issue. Right now my bells are molded fairly tightly around the biceps. If I move the snaps forward, I think this would simply cause the shoulders to pivot or rotate around the bicep. They may then simply dig into my pecs. They would not reduce the gaps to the chest plate. I may have to reheat the bells and pull the front towards the chest.

 

I like how the back and chest armour fit right now. They are kind of snug to my body, which I think looks and feels better than being droopy, so lengthening the white strap doesn't appeal to me. 

 

Right side: You can see that the female snap for the bell is 1/2 inch from the snap that goes to the chest.

QJNSI9P.jpg

 

On the left side, the snap is 1/2" from the chest armour tab, where it is glued to the edge. I can pull the strap off the chest piece  a little bit and move the snap under the armour tab?

Chest is towards the right of this pic.

 

jvGGLB1.jpg

 

I'll resew the snaps as far forward as I can, then go from there.

I really don't want to order new bells....

 

Here is another question that I MAY be wrong about. When people take their pics from the front, it seems like some, shall we say, artificially pivot the arms and shoulders forward to reduce the gap to the chest plate (just like I did). The back pics show more gap than the front. Is this a way of doing it? Bad form to ask this question?

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Big News!

 

I just got Basic Approval!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :smiley-sw013:

 

I am now officially TK-98695. 

 

Thanks to everyone for their help. I'll be asking and posting more as I work towards Expert Level now LOL

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Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks, that extra work was worthwhile, looking forward to seeing you at EIB, good luck. 

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Thank you.

 

Every little boys dream.

 

Gonna start work on the Expert tonight.

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Thanks!

 

And specifically thank you for your help and patience with questions. More may be incoming as I start work for Expert :)

 

Making plans for Fanexpo this month as well.

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Thanks.

 

I am slowly starting work on the armor for EI level.

 

The package containing my helmet stencils plus a couple other things should be arriving within a day or two. That will allow me to build the helmet to Centurion level.

After that my only issue will be the pesky bells and Ab / kidney gaps holding me back from Centurion.

 

I have been seriously stalled due to ongoing issues with my belt snaps not holding. I am using "S" snaps and they don't want to hold at all.

 

I have used links provided by other people that lead to justjosephs snap tutorial, but it is more for the other style of snap.

 

The snaps I am using are from a multi pack (3 different colours) off EBay. Not sure if they are just cheap versions. I had to go this route as these snaps are surprisingly hard to find here in Trenton.

 

Does anyone use a backup system, like big strips of Velcro under the belt to hold it on?

Does anyone have a few good quality "S" snaps they would be willing to part with?

 

I'd gladly pay for the snaps and shipping.

 

Thanks

 

 

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Not sure what the S snaps look like - I've only used the ones used in Joseph's tutorial.

 

Some have used Velcro for the belt (I believe that's what Anovos's instructions say to do) but it's probably not the best long-term solution.

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The original style used in the films. Sometimes called poppers?

I wanted to stay original to the film, but may have to switch them out... :(

 

Will try some Velcro, but I am worried it will wear out over time. I can cinch the belt Velcro really tight at the back to keep it  from falling off when the current snaps don't hold it. The biggest issue is the belt then pivots down at the front away from the Ab buttons.

 

Ab:

HCjN0QK.jpg

 

From EBay photo.

 

zXVOpd5.jpg

 

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Ah right, right. Yeah, I hear those aren't the best.

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Ya. I may forego the accuracy and go for function over form.

 

I did put Velcro on my armor in the Ab / belt connection area and it looks like crap.

 

I'm thinking I'll swap out for regular snaps.

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Congrats on your 501st approval Dave.

 

As for the popper snaps if you mushroom the male head slightly it may help keep them in place. Something about todays poppers, though relatively accurate I don't think they have the same quality as yesteryear.

Edited by ukswrath

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Well, back at it...

 

I switched out the "S" popper snaps for standard snaps, and low-and-behold, the belt held up!!!  I'm going to keep the little strips of Velcro for now to see how things go during my first troop in 1 week.

YRoGuHE.jpg

 

I received my order from Trooperbay.

Helmet bag. I ordered it with no Velcro as I have enough of it here and can sew. Best thing I ever learned in the military was how to run a sewing machine :)

GSRFmeg.jpg

 

peek-a-boo

AzupGAU.jpg

 

Patches and the sling ring for my blaster.

Sticker was an added bonus. Best thing like about the whole ordering from troopers...they all include neat stickers.

iZPKSMY.jpg

 

Now onto something that I may have an issue with. I ordered stencils to paint my helmet details. They include 2 sets of everything in case you foul something up.

 

M0EZp9G.jpg

 

One of the tube stripe stencils was actually attached to a cardboard backing plate (not pictured) when I removed it from the envelope. I had to peel the stencil off the cardboard. It is now close to useless as it has carboard fibers on the back.

 

mLuTiX0.jpg

 

The next issue I have is I think I received the wrong stencils. When ordering you have an option of "hand painted look" or "standard". I took standard to mean smooth edges. If you look at the trap stencil in the above picture it definitely looks like the hand painted option because of squiggly edges.

 

The CRL is not too clear (in my mind) about what is acceptable for Centurion. It states:

Tears/traps are hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details)

 

So, if I hand paint them using a smooth edged stencil, is that acceptable for centurion, or do the details HAVE to have the squiggly lines?

 

I really prefer the smooth edges, like the tube stripes, for a cleaner look. I just want to know before I engage Trooperbay about a possible wrong order.

 

 

 

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I also purchased more fabric to extend the neck seal. The neck seal fabric on my back is only about 4" wide and would always come untucked.

LCHJrzZ.jpg

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Hey Dave

For Centurion the stencils/decals are to emulate hand painted. Looking at the stencils they appear to emulate hand painted so you seem to be all good there:duim:

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