MFJ ANH Stunt build AP Kit

[MFJ]

Small bits, drop boxes, sniper plate, thermal detonater . How do my button panels look? About the right size? That's everything to be cut out. Tomorrow I'll sand, shape and glue and hopefully by tomorrow night (I'm using zap a gap since the lines are so straight and E6000 the smell just lingers. 

 

Leg strips beveled upper and lower and arm strips straight correct?

Hope the button panels look ok? I could go a bit smaller if need be.

 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Coming along nicely.

Regarding the ab plate buttons, the little one might want a little more trimming - nice straight lines and square edges. (The the big one is upside down...)

Here’s a good ref pic.



Dan :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited May 27, 2018 by CableGuy

[MFJ]

A it more trimming it is. I'm cleaning up all the lines now. I have to go find some snaps locally. I'm hoping Michael's or JoAnn's has them and a split rivet tool. 

[MFJ]

Can I separate the ab and cod piece to make it easier to move?

If so do I put a return edge on them or could I just double snap?

[hollowbodies[501st]]

Personally, I'd keep them together. Plus, even if you separate them, once all suited up, it won't give you that much more freedom to move if they are separated compared to if they are still together. However, the CRL does not mention anything special about having the cod and ab parts together or not, so maybe someone else could chime in on that. 

[MFJ]

So I got rid of the decals and decided to paint the helmet. I'm going to try to make it look like a 4th grader painted it. Lol

 

[MFJ]

For the Vocoder the paint color should be semi gloss or satin? None of my hobby stores had satin. The had flat, gloss and semi gloss. 

[wook1138[TK]]

1 minute ago, MFJ said:

For the Vocoder the paint color should be semi gloss or satin? None of my hobby stores had satin. The had flat, gloss and semi gloss. 

Semi gloss would be the closest to satin. 

[MFJ]

Semi gloss it is. I should have the helmet completed tonight. The body completely attached on the armor and all of the final sanding done. Thanks for the advice on the forearms. They fit over my hand now and are comfortable to wear. 

[MFJ]

Is this a passing grade? I had hell on the cheeks bleeding through the stencils. 

 

[Frank75139[501st]]

It’s really gonna be up to your GML in your garrison. I think it’ll be hard to find a painted helmet that’s perfect, mine isn’t and I passed. Personally I think your fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MFJ]

Building progress. Lots of sanding. So I have a question on the sniper plate. I can't get it to line up on BOTH sides without being crooked. How could I fix that or is it common for it to be like that?

 

 

Edited June 4, 2018 by MFJ
added pictures

[TheSwede[TK]]

42 minutes ago, MFJ said:

How could I fix that or is it common for it to be like that?

I don`t have AP myself but it`s to my understanding that the sniper knee hold some challenge when trying to put it on so you are not alone, and one way of doing it is to assamble the shin "offset" meaning raising one half and thus making the sniper knee alligne better and it will be hidden by said sniper knee...check Wook1138 AP build for more info

 

 

[MFJ]

Well..... the shin is already together. Like forever together. My right shin is screwed too, that's a whole different story. I had a buddy come over and help. I cut the strip had everything lined up, showed him exactly how to do it and he did it alright. With the wrong strip. Again, it's on there forever. So I'll have to order another right shin from Mark and if I can't figure a way to get this sniper plate on there I'll have to order both shins. I build cars from the ground up, I build 1000+ hp motors but I can't put plastic together. smh

[ABS80]

On 5/30/2018 at 4:47 PM, MFJ said:

Is this a passing grade? I had hell on the cheeks bleeding through the stencils. 

 

I don't think this will pass approval, i would remove paint and start over try free hand no stencil its actually better,  TBH the decals looked much better and they had the painted on look for centurion approval, when painting the frown you need to paint only the space between the cutouts no above or below, the vocoder needs to be more defined in shape, check the movie photos  as reference. Use Testors model paint thinner to remove paint,  you will notice area will become a bit duller just use a soft cloth to buff shine right back  DO NOT USE ACETONE!  or any acetone base products like nail polish remover ect... this will instantly ruin ABS surface.

Edited June 4, 2018 by ABS80

[MFJ]

And how do I remove the paint without hurting the helmet. I hate the paint job. The teeth I can use a toothpick. The vocoder i can use a very thin tipped brush. 

Edited June 4, 2018 by MFJ

[GilFran007]

Removing paint with non acetone nail polish remover or rubbing alcohol is good for small areas.... If you need to remove entire traps or all the tears, I've used easy off and it worked like a charm. Spray it outdoors and don't breathe it in

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[ABS80]

2 hours ago, MFJ said:

And how do I remove the paint without hurting the helmet. I hate the paint job. The teeth I can use a toothpick. The vocoder i can use a very thin tipped brush. 

I use Testors model paint thinner or also Varsol but paint will come off much easier with the paint thinner,  DO NOT USE ACETONE, as for EASY OFF  I wouldn't chance it, sometime its softens and eats into plastic. go less agressive with the paint thinner or varsol. 

 

Mark (AP)

Edited June 4, 2018 by ABS80

[MFJ]

1 hour ago, ABS80 said:

I use Testors model paint thinner or also Varsol but paint will come off much easier with the paint thinner,  DO NOT USE ACETONE, as for EASY OFF  I wouldn't chance it, sometime its softens and eats into plastic. go less agressive with the paint thinner or varsol. 

 

Mark (AP)

Ok. I'll go get some. I hate the paint job. I need a right shin and unless I can modify the left shin to use the Sniper plate I'll need that too. I watched other building there's and didn't see the left shin having to be offset for the sniper plate.  

[MFJ]

10 hours ago, ABS80 said:

I don't think this will pass approval, i would remove paint and start over try free hand no stencil its actually better,  TBH the decals looked much better and they had the painted on look for centurion approval, when painting the frown you need to paint only the space between the cutouts no above or below, the vocoder needs to be more defined in shape, check the movie photos  as reference. Use Testors model paint thinner to remove paint,  you will notice area will become a bit duller just use a soft cloth to buff shine right back  DO NOT USE ACETONE!  or any acetone base products like nail polish remover ect... this will instantly ruin ABS surface.

Helmet pain fix progress. Teeth fixed, Vocoder more defined, Cheek paint removal, Tears removal, left trap fixed. The bits of paint are just chips that wipe off. 

Better?

 

Edited June 5, 2018 by MFJ

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hey buddy,

If the painting is causing you troubles, here’s some good tutorials that helped me during my lid painting.


Trooperbay - very useful videos showing the lid painting

Trooperbay has videos covering each section of the lid too.


For the traps and tears, there are two main methods.

1. Paint the grey parts and then paint a fine black line (pinstripe) around the edge
2. Paint the black parts and then “fill in” the grey after the black has dried (my preferred method)

This is my own (very brief) video of my build. Around 40 seconds you’ll see the second method.

There are many more detailed photos in my thread if it’s helpful.

Keep up the good work, sir. :-)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MFJ]

5 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

Hey buddy,

If the painting is causing you troubles, here’s some good tutorials that helped me during my lid painting.


Trooperbay - very useful videos showing the lid painting
 

 

Trooperbay has videos covering each section of the lid too.


For the traps and tears, there are two main methods.

1. Paint the grey parts and then paint a fine black line (pinstripe) around the edge
2. Paint the black parts and then “fill in” the grey after the black has dried (my preferred method)

This is my own (very brief) video of my build. Around 40 seconds you’ll see the second method.

 

 

 

 

 

There are many more detailed photos in my thread if it’s helpful.

Keep up the good work, sir. :-)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

My hands aren't real steady after having a brain tumor removed. But I'll get it. In the middle of removing some paint and adding some paint

[CableGuy[Admin]]

My hands aren't real steady after having a brain tumor removed. But I'll get it. In the middle of removing some paint and adding some paint

Hi Craig

No worries mate. Wasn’t meant at a criticism- just tips that helped me when I did mine. :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MFJ]

1 minute ago, CableGuy said:

 

Hi Craig

No worries mate. Wasn’t meant at a criticism- just tips that helped me when I did mine. :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I didn't take it that way. I took it as helpful. My Vocoder on my helmet is not that defined so I'm kinda having to guestimate the paint lines. 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Good stuff. :-)

Yeah, I know the feeling. I have two lids from different suppliers and the vocoder moulds are significantly different. Keeping us on our toes. Lol

Keep it up though, mate. The lid painting is probably the hardest part, so once it’s out the way, you’re closer than ever to being a trooper. :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk