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Jaltrooper

"Hyperfirm" E-11 accuracy and build questions

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Hi all,

 

I just started my E-11 Blaster mod. I am trying to get a Hyperfirm ready for Centurion, and want to be sure I have everything right.

 

So if it is ok, I would like to have a Hyperfirm Q&A for a few things, so I am sure to get everything right.

 

I have printed off the PDF that was so well put together by the group (Thanks a BUNCH!)...but there are still a few small items as it specifically pertains to the Hyperfirm I needed to ask.

 

1st, I had someone on my ANH build thread question the alignment of the "bayonet holder". So here is a close up:

 

20161215_110753_zpsalz97rii.jpg

 

So my question would be, Is this aligned properly? If not, how should I re-align it?

 

Thanks for your time and help. I am pretty sure I'll be asking a few questions as I go through this. I really like the detail on my Hyperfirm. Slavefive did a great job on it and I am happy with it. Me being me, I just want to be sure I am fully approvable and ready when I am finished with my armor. So any help from the experts would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks All!

 

Jon

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The bayonet lug is on backward, Jon.  The divot (indentation) faces the rear.  If you go to the E-11 blaster reference guide and look at the photos under Bayonet Lug it shows this:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/#entry414340

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Go figure...10 minutes after I opened the thread...I noticed that on the E-11 Reference PDF front page, where I hadn't seen the detail in the text. No worries. Cut off, turned around properly, better?

 

20161215_233055_zpsymcxgzjw.jpg

 

I cut a small piece of aluminum and started working on the "ejection port" and have a great idea for the "spring" (after scope, screw replacement, counter detail and re-paint / weather). Going to add the "stripe" and port greeblies as well. Think I can get the detail on up into the bolt chamber...we"ll see...here's the port with the aluminum in it:

 

20161215_232214_zpsyxrkwfnn.jpg

 

 

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

Jon

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Looks great, Jon!  If you haven't glued the aluminum plate over the ejection port in yet, and would like to add a serial number as seen in the reference thread, you can send it to me and I will imprint it for you with whatever numbers/letters you would like.  No charge, just mail it in a small padded envelope (postage is less than $1.00) and I can get it back in the mail for you the next day.  If interested, just PM me.

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I have decided to do an accurate "power cylinder" build on my blaster as well. I have seen some of the great tutorials on the forums and think I can pull that off relatively easily. 

 

If anyone has done a power cylinder exchange on a Hyperfirm...some insight into the removal and re-attachment would be greatly appreciated. 

 

I think I have to find the balance between keeping the "troopability" of the Hyperfirm vs. detail...I am just a detail guy...and I feel pretty sure I can keep it while attaining a more detailed blaster. May be helping someone else in the process. 

 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 

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Here is a pic...funny story...who goes out and gets a new Phone for accurate pictures on his build threads? I do...hahaha.

 

20161231_110242_zpsedfpcc1v.jpg

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if anyone has been doing "hole drilling" on a Hyperfirm...is there a preferred bit? I have been reading and it looks like in order to deepen the muzzle, scope and holes...I need to "bore" (smaller to bigger)...if anyone has any thoughts, it would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to sacrifice the accuracy or structural integrity...and need a smooth bore. 

 

Many Thanks,

 

Jon

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Wow, you should make a "how to pimp out your hyperfirm". I think there is one already from Billy Haggis, but I can't seem to find it. We should def pin one...

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I only drilled on the back to put on a D ring. I can't remember what size I used (I think I found it on here somewhere) but it was a standard drill bit. If my counter comes off again, I may drill some holes to make stints to hold it better.

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Hi guys I would start with a small drill bit then just work your way up the sizes that what I do on my rubber blasters here in the U.K. Then when I've got the desired size I need I just go back and forth as the rubber has flex to it <br><br>

On the D ring hole I'd use a 4mm or 3.8mm top of my head don't know the Imperial sizes hope that's helps

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Sorry for the delay...been working on my TK armor.

 

Spyder...here is how I did it. 

 

I got some "craft aluminum" small sheets from my local Hobby store:

 

20170220_201551_zpsbw70qo4a.jpg

 

I made a "outline / tracing" of the area with regular notebook paper:

 

20170220_195409_zpsjs5jriep.jpg

 

Trimmed it till it fit (roughly...then "eyeballed" the bottom left curve):

 

20170220_200043_zpstabhqhiv.jpg

\

 

I then traced that onto the sheet of craft aluminum sheet:

 

20170220_200223_zpsnipza9ab.jpg

 

I cut it out a little larger than the pattern, then shaved it down to fit.

 

20170220_200949_zps7ziruk6n.jpg

 

 

The "groove" will cover the small gap at the left side...

 

I then took a larger screwdriver and slowly bent a "curve" in it (that is why I made it slightly larger, once the curve is in it, it'll "seat" better in the opening)

 

20170220_201120_zpsoxb37csi.jpg

 

Also, do this slowly. On the thin aluminum, it bends very easily, but once it is over-bent...it is hard to re-shape. And if you get a "pinch" or crease...start over.

 

Then I "sanded" it using a 100 grit silicone sheet, rubbing the aluminum on the sheet to avoid scratching the face.

 

20170220_201442_zpsj5lexxwa.jpg

 

Did the same thing for the "sliding groove / ejection thing"...and here you go. I also made a small piece to put up near the handle. 

 

20170220_205120_zps65r07j2j.jpg

 

You can also see that I am trying to get a serviceable "spring" look in the groove...but I may just "paint" those for effect...it is hard to get the pieces to look right...but I will try everything I can!

 

Hope that helps!

 

Thanks for the tip triumph! I have the replacement screws and bolts and am going to get to work on those, the scope and the counter / power cylinder detail as I go. 

 

My idea is, I don't want to eliminate the durability of the Hyperfirm, but I do want to add some more realistic features too. Need to find the middle ground. This port will be solid and durable once I glue it in and weather it a bit.

 

More on this down the road as I get to it.

 

Thanks All!

 

Jon 

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Clever hack to make that ejection port real metal. :)

 

I wonder, would cutting up a coca-cola can do the same job as the craft aluminum sheeting? Just a thought. :)

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if anyone has been doing "hole drilling" on a Hyperfirm...is there a preferred bit? I have been reading and it looks like in order to deepen the muzzle, scope and holes...I need to "bore" (smaller to bigger)...if anyone has any thoughts, it would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to sacrifice the accuracy or structural integrity...and need a smooth bore.

 

Many Thanks,

 

Jon

Hi,

 

I used boring bits to start the hole in my scope but found they just didn't work once the walls of the scope got too thin. I then switched to a boring bit on my dremel. You can look up my E11 mod thread to see how I did it. I'd post the link but I'm on my phone now. Just look up fragarock.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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Haha...the aluminum would be about the same thickness...but I prefer Mountain Dew.<br><br>

Thanks Fragarock...I'll find it and have a look!

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if anyone has been doing "hole drilling" on a Hyperfirm...is there a preferred bit? I have been reading and it looks like in order to deepen the muzzle, scope and holes...I need to "bore" (smaller to bigger)...if anyone has any thoughts, it would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to sacrifice the accuracy or structural integrity...and need a smooth bore.

 

Many Thanks,

 

Jon

Hi Jon,

 

I have a build thread where I bored out the scope. I used boring bits but only on the first few passes. After that they didn't work for me, rather than removing material the were just distorting the scope as they spun. So I used a cylindrical boring bit that was in my dremel bit kit. Make sure to wear eye protection and a mask.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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Hi Jon,

 

I have a build thread where I bored out the scope. I used boring bits but only on the first few passes. After that they didn't work for me, rather than removing material the were just distorting the scope as they spun. So I used a cylindrical boring bit that was in my dremel bit kit. Make sure to wear eye protection and a mask.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

See fragarocks hyperfirm hfx e-11 mod. I'd post the link but I'm nowhere near my computer now.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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