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Twnbrother

New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

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I used a temporary red light source... I am working on a way to turn on the light via a switch.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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I painted my scope rail... it looks like I sanded too much off the top of the screw head...  a little green stuff and no one will know.  ;)

 

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I love the scope effect Michael.

 

You blaster as a whole is really progressing well.

 

Is the recticle an official E11 design or is it one the you chose ?

 

Is there even a screen used or official recticle ?

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I don't think there is an official reticle. I looked at the one on trooperbay and then designed this in PowerPoint. I downloaded auebush Star Wars alphabet for the lettering.

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If you want my reticle I can email the file.  I tried to post here, but it would not let me upload a PowerPoint slide.

Edited by Twnbrother

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Michael - That you be great thanks very much (I'll send you a PM).

 

I have not decided 100% what style of reticle to work with and may actually produce a few prototypes but your scope is definitely impressive.

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Hi Michael,

 

INCREDIBLE build!!!

 

Great job with the power cylinders - extremely difficult to build accurately because the parts are SO SMALL, but looks like you nailed it!

I love the simplicity and execution of your ideas and will likely be incorporating a few of them into my carbon fiber / resin build.

(I really need to finish that build one of these days...)

I have to tell you, my steel blaster has a real M38 scope with "horizon corrected" optics and I think I like your scope better.

In my opinion, your backlit reticle "fits" the Star Wars universe MORE than the real M38 reticle.  The real reticle is boring.

 

Thanks for the kudos.  It always humbles me when I stumble across my name in someone's build.

Very much appreciated.  Can't wait to see the finished blaster! 

 

Aaron

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I have been extremely busy with work this week and only had a little time to work of the DD.  I continued to work on the folding stock as I am waiting for parts to make the scope light up.  I trimmed out the space where the butt stock folds down to give it a real look.  I will continue to work on this to get it right.

 

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I am creating a recess to cast a shadow to make it look like two separate pieces.

 

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I trimmed out to front portion and will fix the edge with green stuff

 

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Edited by Twnbrother

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I know there should be two small holes in each electrical connection. The only thing I could find was the inside of a fuse, but they looked too small.

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I was looking at the E11 Reference guide (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ AWESOME RESOURCE... thanks for putting this together) when I saw a great build on the end cap, entry 21 MOD B.  So as the greatest form of flattery I copied.  I marked the outline of the D-ring retainer in pencil and then used my small wood working tools to carve out the location.  I cut out a little to much... but green stuff took care of the gaps.  I also did the gratuitous electrical tape on the D-Ring to keep it from rattling.  I also put a little green stuff by the D-ring to reduce the noise even further.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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Nice work on the end cap! Looks like the real thing. You positioned the d-ring holder slightly raised from the cap and that tiny detail completes it! Excellent work!

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Very nice work on the end cap Mike.

 

I'm also looking to do a very similar thing so it is good to see this mod being carried out so well.

 

You're also correct that the blaster reference thread is a fantastic and quick reference guide to what can be done.

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Brian thanks for the kind compliment.  

 

I was trying to make sure it still looked like two pieces... so when I did the green stuff I made sure to mold a crevice.  I painted it back silver so I could see all my green stuff errors....  a little drying, green stuff, sanding, and then hammered paint.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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This morning I worked a little on the folding stock...  I wanted the front end to look like the real thing.  I trimmed out the center rod so it looked circular and the side channels deep.  I also worked on the front piece that would rotate... cleaned out the rotating piece.

 

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Wow Mike, how did you manage to get such sharp edges/corners into this? Electric drill and rotary tool don't seem to be enough for this nice result.

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Here is a followup on the button to turn the red light on in the scope.  I did not want to add a new switch or button... so I incorporated this magnetic switch. http://myhmshop.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=ultra+compact&category_id=0&product_id=321.  

 

I placed the magnet in the selector switch...  The corresponding magnet is buried in the trigger assembly.  I dug out the spot with carving tools and drilled holes for the wires.

 

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I soldered the wires, inserted, and covered with green stuff.

 

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I ran the wires up through the pistol grip and dug a channel to hide the wires.  I then drilled a hole in the main rifle tube to run the wire

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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Next I went on to create the space for the battery.  I used the typical magazine well.  This battery is so small you could hide it almost anywhere.  Also drilled a hole behind the magazine well to run the wires.

 

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The wires for the LED light run up through the hole for the scope rail.... it is then ran though the rail into the front "foot" of the scope.  I covered this wire with Tamiya Tape and just painted.  It is very hard to notice.  I thought about dremeling out a channel to hide the wire, but I don't know if the work is worth it....  I might do that later.

 

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I will solder the final connections when assembling the gun.

Edited by Twnbrother
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RIDICULOUS!

That magnetic switch is cool - and it prevents you from having to carve out a monster size hole for a conventional switch.

Soldering at that scale takes a steady hand!  NICE WORK!

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After seeing the photo with the tape covering the wire I decided to cut a channel in the aluminum to hide the wire.  

 

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And here is a shot of the scope with the new light source.

 

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Wow Michael you have some great ideas for your mods, that magnetic switch and hiding the wire in a groove in the bracket is genius, I take my hat (lid) off to you my friend, well done bro! 

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