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Twnbrother

New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

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This is an update of the Power Cylinder saga... wow this is even more difficult than I thought.  

 

I took the aluminum rods provided by T-Jay and used his tutorial on how to round the edges and adding the wire.

 

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I then continued to trim the metal bracket to a closer resemblance to the B model.  I am thinking of replacing the cylinders with 10mm aluminum tubing (hard to round the DD cylinders) and keeping the caps from the DD kit.  

 

The end of the cylinders under the green stuff is a magnet (same one used for the magazine) super glued on.  The back of the cylinder is the DD cap and a cut down center barrel connector of a pen. Underneath this is also a magnet.  The magnets allow precise placement and removal for painting.  When I am satisfied with the final placement I will super glue them in place.  

 

The front and back screws with nuts are from T-Jays kit.  I will cut them down when I am finalizing the build.

 

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Please let me know if this looks right before I glue in place.  I will continue to work on the wings  and the wires on the back.

Edited by Twnbrother

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Mike, very nice. You made exactly what I had mentioned at the end of that tutorial. :jc_doublethumbup: Your set of power cylinders will get better than what I've displayed there...

 

So excited to see it finished. Just one thing: I would move the 3 central capacitors a bit more forward, otherwise you'll not have enough space for the red wires on the rear side.

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The DD cylinders were driving me crazy and I could not get them round.  So I went to the Hobby shop and got a PVC tube.  I cut it to size and added the magnets like I did before.  This really helps with placement and bad drilling through metal.  The only thing left from the DD Power Cylinder is the caps at the end of the cylinders. :D   

 

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Tino I moved the center capacitors back...  is this about right?

 

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Do I need to shorten the cylinder in the rear?  I think its a couple millimeters long  :blink:

 

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While at the hobby shop I came across a tube and wire that fit inside.  I am gonna use this for the pieces in the back.  

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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Mike, very nice. You made exactly what I had mentioned at the end of that tutorial. :jc_doublethumbup: Your set of power cylinders will get better than what I've displayed there...

 

So excited to see it finished. Just one thing: I would move the 3 central capacitors a bit more forward, otherwise you'll not have enough space for the red wires on the rear side.

Tino your post is where I got to thinking about the metal bracket.  I'm hoping I can do some justice to the Power Cylinders

Edited by Twnbrother
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I need an opinion on which color looks closer to brass?  It has been impossible for me to find Brass spray paint for plastic.  Below are several pictures of two colors taken in different lighting.  Which looks more like Brass?  The one closer to the edge or the one in the middle?

 

Thanks

 

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I need an opinion on which color looks closer to brass?  It has been impossible for me to find Brass spray paint for plastic.  Below are several pictures of two colors taken in different lighting.  Which looks more like Brass?  The one closer to the edge or the one in the middle?

 

Thanks

 

11180617_10153390653847660_4744612954444

 

11262231_10153390653862660_5890916080832

 

11141227_10153390653827660_6899427447351

 

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The top one, but it's still more gold. where the bottom one looks goldish silver.

 

I would go with the top one if I had to pick between the 2.

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Thanks Derrek. I will go with your choice. I looked for over a month for Brass and no luck. Both of these colors are metallic gold and both look completely different.

 

Thanks again.

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Thanks Derrek. I will go with your choice. I looked for over a month for Brass and no luck. Both of these colors are metallic gold and both look completely different.

 

Thanks again.

 

HAve you looked for some model paint in a small jar? Like the model masters and so on?

 

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Testors-Model-Master-Brass-1-2-oz-Paint-1782-/190817130835?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6d965953

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When I went to the hobby shop I just looked for spray paint. They have a large selection of Tamiya and Model Masters. Next time I am there I will look at the bottled paint.  However I suck at painting with a brush

Edited by Twnbrother

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I went to my Home Depot to get it and they would have to order it....  and I would have to get a case and it takes 6 weeks to get in.  Spray paint has to come by boat to Hawaii.  I can't use 6 cans.. :blink:  :D    Thanks for the info.

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its been a couple real busy days with work so I only got a little more done on the Power Cylinder.  After looking at Playfulwoldcub's perfect Power Cylinders I did not like the DD end caps.  So here is my solution.  My PVC pipe has 3/8" outer diameter.  I bought a steel pipe from the hobby shop that has a 3/8" inner diameter and 7/16" outer diameter.  I cut this pipe to make the end caps.  I then took a 3/8" steel crafting blank for the end piece (3/8" washers shown in photo... this was proof of concept).  Drill a hole in the center for the screw provided from Tino and a little green stuff to hide the seam.....  I like it better.  

 

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Next printed out the word METALMITE on a clear label from Avery and stuck on one of the cylinders... I saw this detail on one from Playfulwolfcub posted on MESP.  

 

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To make the fuses that were on the back of the Power Cylinder I used the small PVC pipe and wire I showed in an earlier post.  I cut the PVC to the size of each side of the rear power cylinders.  I then cut the wire the length of the rear mounting plate.  I stuck the PVC on each end of the wire and then trimmed the plastic casing in the middle. I made sure to leave a little bit of wire sticking out each end

 

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i stuck on a piece of red cloth from the wiring provided from T-Jay to finish the effect.  I think I need to build a space between these to segments.

 

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Now there are no original DD Power Cylinder parts to this build.

Edited by Twnbrother
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Damn, you went a very extreme way - and you're still not done yet! :duim: Can't wait to see this one finished but please post some pictures before painting anything.

 

Yes, that research document from Andy (PlayfulWolfcub) really makes people don't like the DD cylinders anymore. It worked the same for me... :laugh1:

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Tino it is time consuming but not expensive at all to make this.  I am making two at the same time... one for my brother.  The part cost is below:

 

Bracket:       0.47

3/8" PVC     1.98

steel blanks 0.43 (each)  could be found cheaper at a craft store, but I got mine online.

steel rod:     4.95

small PVC    1.35

wire                .98

 

The steel rod was expensive but they were sold out of the brass and aluminum 7/16" rods.  The others were around three bucks.  You can make several caps from one rod.  It comes in 12" sections so with clean cuts you could get up to 48 caps.  More likely around 40.... ;)

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I have a finishing paint question.  What is the final black color?  is it Satin Black or Flat Black?  I am thinking Satin Black.  Thanks.

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I have a finishing paint question.  What is the final black color?  is it Satin Black or Flat Black?  I am thinking Satin Black.  Thanks.

 

It should be a flat black with the grip part being gloss/satin black.

 

I've seen satin and gloss blasters and it just looks wrong. They just are too shiny.

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I worked a little on the push button for the magazine release.  When I was at the hobby shop they had push button switches and I thought this might work better than my spring and post idea.  First I removed the lock washer and nut.  I then took the push button trimmed off the bottom to make is cylindrical.  Make sure you do not cut the plunger off or the spring will not work.  I also trimmed off the red button on top leaving enough to still attach the spring.  I also trimmed down the barrel below the red button to make the button depress further.  When drilling out your hole on the magazine well make sure you check the depth for the base of the push button and still have a smaller hole going a little deeper for the plunger to depress into.   I works like a charm.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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Next I went to work painting my scope and counter box.  On the counter I covered the brass screws, counter button, and counter window with Tamiya tape before painting.  The rear of the counter was done in Testors gloss metallic gold spray enamel (brass) and the front dark steel.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother

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Before covering the scope with flat black I placed strings in the rings (held in place with candle wax), covered brass screws with candle wax, inserted the lense covered with tamiya tape.

 

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The initial painting doesn't look to bad...  more finishing to follow.

 

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