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Twnbrother

New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

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I painted the magazine Gun Metal and the end of the mag flat black.  This is kinda how I see it in some photos... others looks completely black.  I gotta go back over it as I used painters tape instead of Tamiya tape...  oops  :mellow:

 

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For my scope reticle I printed off the crosshairs on Avery Clear labels.  I then placed the label over the back side of the lens.  

 

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I used an XACTO knife to trim the sticker and pressed into the lens.  Use something smooth to do this.  My first attempt I used a wet finger and the cross hair came off.

 

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I put the lens inside the rubber gasket from the monocular with the smooth side facing forward.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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That paintjob with the gun metal grey looks fantastic. Gives it much more realism than simply flat black.

 

When you paint that inner bolt make sure to keep the paint layer thin. On my bolt I had to add some washing which somewhat "filled up" the serial numbers...

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Michael this build is getting better all the time. I particularly like you use of a switch in the magazine release button (and your serial umbers look much better).

 

I will need to look in to how to paint up my blaster at some stage too so I will watch your progress with interest.

Edited by Thrawn's guard
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That paintjob with the gun metal grey looks fantastic. Gives it much more realism than simply flat black.

 

When you paint that inner bolt make sure to keep the paint layer thin. On my bolt I had to add some washing which somewhat "filled up" the serial numbers...

Tino, 

 

Thanks for the heads up on keeping the paint light on the bolt.  I hope it turns out okay.... or I am headed back for round 4.   :)

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I sanded and painted the serial numbers.  I might have to go back for round 4.  It looks like my green stuff was not thick enough in some spots.  What is the general consensus?

 

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I really like the look.

 

I'm also wondering if the serial numbers came out perfect on the real Sterlings or if there were variations in the quality of each stamped digit.

 

If the original serial numbers sometimes tended to have variations then perhaps what you have here already accurately represents what you are looking to achieve.

 

If not then it may be an option to try to remove only the area local to digits that you are not happy with, reapply green stuff and restamp.

 

I will also be looking to add a similar detail so this procedure is very interesting.

 

I originally considered actually stamping a small strip of metal and then incorporating it though I have no idea at this stage how easy or difficult that would be or how well it would turn out.

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My "Great Idea" for the cross hairs did not work the way I wanted :angry: .  The Avery "clear" stickers are actually frosted :blink:   So the light dissipation does not work.  I thought of creating a light source with micro LEDs and using the psuh button on my magazine well to light it up... However, that would be hard to hide and wires...  not undoable, just hard.  So here is a thought and I wanted some opinions.  I placed a CR2032 battery inside the scope... the pattern is pretty unique.

 

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(...)    I'm also wondering if the serial numbers came out perfect on the real Sterlings or if there were variations in the quality of each stamped digit.   (...)

 

(...)    If the original serial numbers sometimes tended to have variations then perhaps what you have here already accurately represents what you are looking to achieve.   (...)

 

(...)    I originally considered actually stamping a small strip of metal and then incorporating it though I have no idea at this stage how easy or difficult that would be or how well it would turn out.

 

Had the same problem in my build. The serial numbers on real Sterlings are exactly horizontally. This is hard to copy by manually using a punch number for every single digit.

 

The row will most likely become a bit wobbly, unless using a tool to line up all numbers before stamping...

 

However, the original serial numbers were not that deep at all, as metal behaves different than soft "green stuff". Ideally that imprint would only be on the surface just deep enough to clearly see it without the V-grooves around the numbers.

 

Vern (TK Bondservnt2392) had suggested in my build, to use an engravging service to get all numbers in a nice row on a metal stripe and integrate this into the bolt. THAT sounds like the ultimate way, but is some effort... :)

 

 

Mike, that battery in the scope is a crazy idea. Sorry to hear your reticle sticker didn't work.

Edited by T-Jay
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I am gonna keep thinking about the scope reticle. I have seen many people using the cd trick but I wanted to try something new. I'm not in a hurry so I can take my time coming up with new ideas.

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I kind of want to hollow out the whole scope and have a clear sheet of something with the target on it somewhere inside, and if all of the scope is hollowed out then the light from the front would show through to the back. But after hollowing out enough of the front and back to fit in lenses, I don't think I'll be able to go much deeper (I don't think I have the right tools for the job).

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Here are some pics of the scope minus the reticle I want.... I need to add the remaining front screws. ;)

 

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I did the standard string on the front and white crayon for the letters... :D

 

After seeing the photo's I need to clean up and touch up where I took the candle wax off the screws.

Edited by Twnbrother

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The scope is really coming on well.

 

Do you plan to add any brass weathering effect ?

 

I'm sure you will get your reticle sorted out. I'm not sure what I will do with mine yet or even what the requirements if any for centurion are.

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The scope is really coming on well.

 

Do you plan to add any brass weathering effect ?

 

I'm sure you will get your reticle sorted out. I'm not sure what I will do with mine yet or even what the requirements if any for centurion are.

Right now I am just thinking of really light weathering...  I scuffed up a little on the edges to give it some slight wear.  I did not want to do a lot as other have said it distracts from the realism.  If you look close at some of the surface areas you can see where I rubbed down to the brass.

 

After your post I did go ahead and slightly scuff some more.

Edited by Twnbrother

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Tonight I finished with the Hengstler Counter...  long process, but I think it turned out pretty good.  :)

 

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Edited by Twnbrother
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Well, that is all for this weekend.  My work schedule should keep me pretty busy this week, so hopefully I will have some updates by next weekend.

Edited by Twnbrother

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Wow, that counter looks really good on these 2 pictures. Can you also show us a photo to see, how the numbers align behind the window?

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Tino per your request I have attached two photo's of the counters numbers straight on.

 

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Before I sealed the window I put Zap a Gap on the numbers to make sure they never moved.  The push button is painted satin black on purpose to give it contrast to the counter box.

Edited by Twnbrother
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Thanks Mike, I really appreciate your effort! That counter mod worked out nice and looks close to the real deal.

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I was trying to rack my brain on how to get the word HENGSTLER on the face of the counter...  It looks like it is melted into the plastic.... so I gave up on that idea.  Thanks for all the help and advise on how to build the ANH E11

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I am now finally satisfied with the bolt serial numbers after the 4th attempt.  A lesson learned is to let the Green Stuff dry for 10-15 minutes (or more) before stamping.  If you mess up... smooth out the mistake immediately and restamp.  The bolt is painted gun metal and the bolt stripe is dark steel.  The body of the weapon is also dark steel, but this is the base coat before hammered paint.  The bluish glare in the bottom right is artifact from the photo.

 

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THAT looks good, man! :jc_doublethumbup: It was worth trying it one more time.

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