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Twnbrother

New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

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The same part on the M4 does this so I assumed the sterling magazine catch did the same thing.  You can see it in this pic from the Sterling Manual.

 

mag%20screw_zps4rfxjlp7.jpg

Edited by Twnbrother
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The magazine button pushes down on my sterling to release the clip but I don't think the bottom piece with the 'o's stamped on it moves, maybe it moves when its being stripped, I'm not 100% on this though, will have to check!

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OK curiosity has got the better of me, its 12.06pm and i just got out of bed, got my camera and went out to my shed next to the house in my underwear and got my sterling out of the safe.

Your exactly right Michael, when the magazine button is pressed the catch at the bottom pokes out the same time!.

I can only get so close with the camera lens I have but here are some pics, I tried to get some of the inside of the mag well also as you can see the catch move there also, hope the pics help!.

 

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DSC_0030_zps0x4xlpqr.jpg

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If your referring to the dimple on the clip then no as the dimple ended up on the off cut from the clip but it's definitely grabbing something on the end of the clip, once that sucker is clipped in its not coming out!

Edited by welshchris77
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Chris... thanks for posting this.  I based my modification on the M4's magazine catch... I'm glad to know it was the same on the Sterling. It was a fun coming up with the idea to make this work.

Edited by Twnbrother

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Well I just learned a valuable lesson when making the scope rail from aluminum...  DO NOT score the bend line with your dremel cutting bit.  I scored about halfway through the aluminum to make it easy to bend..   The piece broke in half. :angry:   I gotta find some more aluminum or order a scope rail.   Off well, life goes on.  Hopefully no one else will make this mistake after reading this post. ;)

Edited by Twnbrother
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@ Michael - Thank for posting the warning about the scope rail I'm sure it will help many others avoid the same issue. The blaster build is looking great by the way.

 

@ Chris - Thanks for posting some very very helpful photographs.

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Chris... thanks for posting this.  I based my modification on the M4's magazine catch... I'm glad to know it was the same on the Sterling. It was a fun coming up with the idea to make this work.

Your very welcome Chris, your attention to detail is commendable my friend!.

 

 

@ Michael - Thank for posting the warning about the scope rail I'm sure it will help many others avoid the same issue. The blaster build is looking great by the way.

 

@ Chris - Thanks for posting some very very helpful photographs.

 

Always happy to help out Chris!.

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Well I just learned a valuable lesson when making the scope rail from aluminum...  DO NOT score the bend line with your dremel cutting bit.  I scored about halfway through the aluminum to make it easy to bend..   The piece broke in half. :angry:   I gotta find some more aluminum or order a scope rail.   Off well, life goes on.  Hopefully no one else will make this mistake after reading this post. ;)

I did the very same thing when I was making my doopy's a few years ago, the aluminum itself can vary in quality also, I snapped a few pieces even without scoring them, in the end I used a thicker 'found' piece for strength but in hindsight it wasn't the right width and looks way too thick, its something I've been meaning to go back and change. 

For my sterling I made a more accurate shape and thickness and the counter bracket and rail are all made from one piece, oh yeah and I used mild steel which I would highly recommend!, you don't have to worry about it snapping and its so much stronger than aluminum.

It wouldn't add that much extra weight to your gun either!.

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This is my meager attempt to repair the aluminum rail with Zap a Gap and Green Stuff....  I painted it to see if it would look okay.  With the repair the bend looks too straight....  I was wanting the rounded 90 degree bend.

 

11694945_10153422500612660_2188423774551

 

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Guess there is a trip to Home Depot for me this week.....  :huh:

Edited by Twnbrother

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Since I had to replace this piece I went ahead and practiced a little detailing....  I put the same serial number on the rail as I did on the bolt...  just playing around, but I kinda like it.

 

11705378_10153422500687660_8568985079361

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If there is some sort of machine shop or even a boat repair place near you Michael you can ask them have they got any offcuts of sheet mild steel, these place generally have scrap bins full of the stuff and I'm sure they would let you have some for nothing if you ask nicely.

Thats what i did, at the time I told them I needed it to make a repair on my car or something as I didn't want to get strange looks when telling them it was for a scope rail on a stormtrooper gun! :lol: I cut it to shape on a vice with a hacksaw and cleaned up with metal files!

Nice touch with the numbers on the rail by the way!

Edited by welshchris77
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I stopped by Home Depot at lunch today and picked up a piece of aluminum 3/4" x 36" x 1/8" for the scope rail.... only 5 dollars.  I measured, bent, and cut to make the scope rail.... and no breakage.   :duim:

 

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Now I just gotta make the counter bracket.

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The new rail looks very good. Keep up the work. I am on a three week business trip so my DoopyDoo is just sitting in a box at home getting no love. My mind is now racing with what I can do to the "weapon"

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I think I have finished up with the scope rail.  I connected the two pieces of aluminum with a 3/16" binding post screw.  I wanted to keep as low of a profile as possible.  I stamped the same serial number on the rail, but I put it on the side of the counter..  kinda a hidden item.

 

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This is the scope on in a temp position... does the spacing look right?

 

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11760087_10153428842822660_5289732613698

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After looking at the pictures I still did not like the profile of the binding post.   So I flipped the binding post over and removed most of the screw head (very easy with wire cutters and dermel sanding).  I covered the threads with Zap a Gap... put some Zap a Gap where the aluminum connected and screwed it together.

 

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After the Zap a Gap dried I sanded the screw smooth and covered with Green Stuff.

 

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This should give it a nice smooth profile.

Edited by Twnbrother
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I've been away with the kids for a few days and and just back to check on this post, great progress Michael the new scope rail is looking very good!

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(...)    This is the scope on in a temp position... does the spacing look right?

 

11760087_10153428842822660_5289732613698

 

Absolutely correct. The rear foot of the scope is located above the folding stock hinge.

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I think I got it right for my scope reticle.  I printed out my scope reticle in four separate pieces onto clear stickers that I got off amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SEZH3A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00.  I then cut out the sticker and placed them on 3/4" clear disc I got off of ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/391184172971?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT  I stacked the disc together and glued the sides with Zap a Gap.

 

11796235_10153434034132660_1463418621830

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