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Twnbrother

New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

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When I got home today the mailman had delivered my DoopyDoos full kit and the E11 finishing kit from T-Jay (thanks T-Jay awesome stuff).

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I washed everything in warm soapy water to remove any release agent. I received a replacement magazine from Gazmosis (great magazine... so much better than DoopyDoos) earlier this week so I wanted to start on this first. I used my dremel to cut away the excess resin in the magazine well. You gotta be careful as the walls will get thin. After rough cutting I used a polishing bit to smooth everything out. You gotta look carefully inside the magazine well to ensure you do not leave any burrs. A small burr will prevent the magazine from seating.

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Edited by Twnbrother
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Off to a great start and you already grabbed the bull by its horns with that modified magazine well. :duim:

 

Following...

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The magazine should actually go in a little further. There are little "corners" on the backside of the clip and on the front side of the magazine. Both should be right up against the magazine housing.

You can either dig more out of the housing or trim a  little off the mag

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When I got home tonight I took Gazmosis suggestion and trimmed out the magazine well to better seat the magazine. i also drilled out the screw on the side to fit the one from T-Jays kit.

 

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I also drilled two holes (counter sunk the heads) to secure the magazine well to the barrel of the E11. While doing this I also drilled a third hole to secure the magazine to the magazine well... this pulls the magazine in tight to get the perfect fit.

 

I just realized that I can't screw in the mag and screw the magazine well to the barrel. Oops.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother

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Next I started a little work on the folding stock.  I drilled out the holes and carved out the back to fit the metal rod from T-Jay.  Now I just gotta focus on the rest of the folding stock...  lots to do on this piece.  I'm trying to figure out if I want to replace any of the connectors... time to start looking at Lowe's for ideas.

 

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Next some work on the piece (buffer?) that the spring goes around right before it touches the bolt carrier.  My wife "donated" a lipstick tube and my kids gave me a magic marker.     

 

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I took the end cap off the magic marker and tapped it into the lipstick tube with a rubber mallet.

 

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Next I took this and tapped it into the "barrel" provided by T-Jay.  I think I need to trim down the length.  Was is the correct length for this part?  

 

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(...)      Next I took this and tapped it into the "barrel" provided by T-Jay.  I think I need to trim down the length.  Was is the correct length for this part?  

 

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Hi Mike, interesting progress :) Regarding your question above, please check some Sterling reference pictures. Would say the grey plastic barrel can be shortened a few mm. And the lipstick tube should go deeper into that grey tube...

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Tino, I did what you suggested and tapped the lipstick tube in further.  I also sanded the lipstick tube so that when I paint it will stick better.

 

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I ordered the Doopydoos kit about two to three weeks ago.  I comes in and out of stock pretty quick.  Make sure you get on their email alert... I missed it my first try, but got it the second time. 

Edited by Twnbrother

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Tonight I continued to work on the folding stock.  I drilled out the center of the resin bolt that connects to the aluminium rod that I put in earlier.  In reference photos this looks like a square bolt with a center hole. The pic below shows what I am talking about... small detail, but I wanted to add it.

 

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Next I drilled out the holes on the bottom of the barrel. I first made a pilot hole to remain centered.

 

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I then worked on connecting the folding stock to the barrel.  I trimmed off the nubs at the rotating point and drilled a hole for screws.  

 

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Next I inserted the grey tube and templated a spot to be removed   This location would eventually house a retaining screw.

 

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It fits nice a snug keeping the folding stock tight to the barrel.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother

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Tonight I worked on the bolt.  I have been thinking of a way to replace the stripe on the bolt with metal..  something the right width and depth that was malleable.  Well today at work I was outside near an old building and saw five to six thin pieces of metal on the ground.  I picked it up and said this might work.  I looked around to see where they came from... it was the metal fins from an AC grate.    First I trimmed off the old stripe, cut the metal piece, and scraped a channel around the ejection port to seat the piece of metal.

 

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Next I went to work on the charging handle and filling in the space behind the charging handle.  I drew lines to place an additional piece of metal at the back of the bolt.  To raise the bolt up I used two lego pieces.  I dont know if I got the depth right.  If this looks good to you guys, I will fill in the gaps in green stuff to make it look smooth when completed.

 

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Please give comments on ways to improve..   Thanks

Edited by Twnbrother
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The bolt pieces just didn't look right after looking at reference photos.  I changed the metal piece and rounded off the "bolt" legos to give it a more round appearance.

 

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Hey Mike, good idea with the Lego pieces :).

 

Compared to reference pictures, your metal stripe in the ejection port appears a bit wide to me. Not sure if its just the angle in the photos...

 

Double check some reference pictures regarding that short metal part on top of your Lego parts. This shape is a bit off.

 

Keep the pictures coming... :D

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Tino, you were right about the metal piece.  I relooked the reference photo and corrected my error.  Thank you. :)  :duim: .   I also did a little more work to the height of the bolt.  I wanted it to match closely to ejection port height.  I added another Lego ;) .  This was longer than other two so the charging handle could rest on it.  I also sanded the bottom to match the curve of the grey tube barrel.  I had to round the end off by the charging handle so it would fit smoothly.  I also drilled a divot in the bottom of the charging handle so it could fit on the Lego.

 

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I gotta get the metal stripe back just a little when I glue it down.   Keep the comments and suggestions coming ;)

Edited by Twnbrother

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I began working on the front site post by the using outstanding information provided by Aaron in this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30899-front-sight-mod-on-a-doopy-doos-resin-kit-added-realism/  and I used Tino's idea of adding texture to the front site post housing.  The front site pin was made from an "Allthread plated 6-32"  It comes in one foot pieces from Lowes for $1.09.  You could make 10-12 front sites from one piece.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother

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Yesterday my counter numbers arrived.  I bought them off amazon for $6.64.  Its called the D94-S counter.  http://www.amazon.com/0-999999-Resettable-Mechanical-Pulling-Counter/dp/B00880S4FC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1435080451&sr=8-4&keywords=6+digit+counter&pebp=1435080458476&perid=0BZE5CD9Y11JJV8C9MJB

 

The counter is very easy to take apart.  The numbers have a piece of plastic protruding from each one that I trimmed off.  There is also an extra piece of white plastic between the numbers that I removed. I sanded the face of the resin counter down and then dug out a space for the numbers to fit.  The counter comes with the round beveled window that looks great.  The counter piece of plastic is the same width of the resin Hengslter but its a little long.  The long ends will need to be trimmed down.  I cut a push button from the plastic housing of the counter...  I just need to cut the hole in the face plate and insert...  

 

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Lots of work to finish this piece.

Edited by Twnbrother

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