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Twnbrother

New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

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These measurements will match the with the ones on top and at the side, because the counter sockets were designed to fit next to each other and on top of each other.

 

Meaning, you will find the required measurements on your counter. Hope this helped ;)

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Chris you really got me thinking about this counter and when Tino said the ridges on the bottom were mirror images so they would slide together I had an idea.  Really simple idea.  I filled the top side with green stuff ensuring the counter was wet.  When it dried enough to manipulate I took it off and glued it on bottom.  i just need to sand, green stuff the seams and paint.  I also went a little further.  On the pics I see of the counter there are two screws, one of which is partially hidden.  I trimmed off the portion on top of the screw and inserted a temp screw (wrong type head, but right diameter).  I will cover with a thin piece of plastic.  I also trimmed out the channel around my counter to make it more realistic.

 

1898154_10153532189467660_66311040966090

 

11993289_10153532189477660_6433903361769

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Good thinking and a great bit of additional detail with the extra screw.

 

I'll definitely have to add this additional screw also.

Edited by Thrawn's guard
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I am almost finished with the rework on my counter  :duim:   Chris you gave me so many good ideas.  In addition to adding the bottom detail I moved the screw that holds the cover on down a little bit and added the matching screw on the underside.  I also widen the push button by adding 1mm strip... small detail but looks better.  The two screws for the bottom have yet to arrive.  When they do I will post the pic.

 

11227642_10153550871382660_4198661241209

 

12002092_10153550871392660_1568160935866

 

12004139_10153550871422660_2396065434340

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Yesterday I went to work on the bolt face that shows in the ejector port.  I went ahead and carved out the ejector and tried my hand at the serial number.  

 

11667452_10153382034912660_5275681128150

 

The ejector was made from the left over resin from the original DD front site post.  The brass rod is the inside barrel of an ink pen.

 

11692546_10153382034887660_8886591837239

 

I dug out a spot for the serial number with my Dremel and filled with green stuff (saw this trick on Tino's thread).  In this photo the green stuff had not dried so I have not sanded in down flush.

 

10986565_10153382034792660_6205319512783

 

I used 2mm metal stamps to make the serial number.

 

11698502_10153379034512660_1655171738078

Mike,

   What are your dimensions for the ejector you carved out? Getting ready to do mine but I can't seem to find anything on the actual size.

Thanks

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I did not measure this... I just took my small curved carving tool to make the opening.

 

Chris (Thrawn's Guard)  did a great job with the measurement.  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32072-thrawns-guards-anh-e11-blaster-build/?p=424777  start at post #218.  Keep reading as the length on the ejector opening was initially too long, but anything is easy to fix with Green Stuff.

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I finally obtained the screws I needed for the end of the Hengstler.   I got them from a 6A Terminal Stript  http://www.ebay.com/itm/161807927689?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=460780829352&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT  The screws in the 6 amp M3 screws.  The first strip I ordered were silver instead of yellow zinc or brass.

 

12138525_10153598540102660_8982559559338

 

 

The specs you see on the gun is dust...  I gotta get a cover for the display.

 

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Edited by Twnbrother

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I also updated the tiny screws on the side of the M38 scope.  I used slotted screws from an eyeglass repair kit.  Small detail, but I like it better.  Its hard to see in the photo...  I will try for a better pic

 

12030406_10153598540092660_6189341773296

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Yesterday I received my Hengstler from Dennis (Blue Snaggletooth).  It is PERFECT!!!!  if you ever need one of these talk to him or see one of his for sale threads.  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32543-fs-3-run-hengstler-400-counter-eagle-replicas/  I will be using his on my real sterling build.   Below are some pics compared to my DD counter.

 

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Cool new counter! <br><br>

Love the tiny screws you added to the scope. A detail that brings your scope another step closer to the real thing. I might have ago and try adding those on my next resin scope. Thanks for sharing your idea!

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I began the final phase of painting.  I used Tino's tutorial on how to use Hammered Paint and a paper towel....  great technique for making it look like metal.  After this coat dried I painted my first coat of Tamiya Matte Black....  after the second coat I will complete the wiring, assemble the weapon, green stuff the seams, touch up paint, weather and then seal with a matte finish......  So close to completion.... I can feel it...  :D

 

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Love this paint job! Can you give a link to the paint tutorial by Tino's you mentioned? Thx!!!

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Roger<br><br>

Click on the FISD E-11 reference banner in my signature. Chapter 28 and 29 cover this. Tino is a true expert. He is one of the creators for the reference. Check him out. If you plan a build you should get his completion kit<br><br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/page-2#entry414719'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/page-2#entry414719</a>

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Roger<br><br>

Click on the FISD E-11 reference banner in my signature. Chapter 28 and 29 cover this. Tino is a true expert. He is one of the creators for the reference. Check him out. If you plan a build you should get his completion kit<br><br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/page-2#entry414719'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/page-2#entry414719</a>

 

Thank you Mike!!!

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