Jump to content

Supply list for your OT TK build....

Recommended Posts

I decided to work out a complete, comprehensive list for those about to start an OT TK armor build (ANH Stunt, Hero, etc,) to help get everything in place for when "Big Brown Box" day arrives!  This list does not include soft parts, (neck seal, boots, etc.) but focuses on the hardware and supplies for building the armor itself.  However, a list of soft parts can be found HERE  I believe I have covered most items, but would appreciate additional suggestions/corrections to add, and will keep it updated as such.  Yes, it looks a bit daunting, but some of the items you will already have, and the rest can be purchased at major home improvement stores, online, or borrowed from a TK friend!  Plus, it gives you something to do while you "hurry up and wait" for your kit!  This list is includes items used for the EIB and Centurion programs, (marked with double red asterisks)**.  These items are not required for initial TK approval, but I encourage everyone to consider them as an option.   Hope this helps, and best of luck on your build!


                                                                               PLEASE NOTE:

Some kits come with all the hardware you will need to build to Centurion level, i.e. split rivets, ear screws, TD screws, etc., however, not all armorers supply the correct ones.  If you are (hopefully) planning on aiming for level 3, please check with your armorer to see if they provide these.  You can also reference the photos below to see if they are accurate.  These supplies are based on using the snap method for connecting the armor. 


Example photos are shown at the bottom for many of the items, but not all.  (Everyone knows what a hammer looks like).  Items with photos have a notation.


1.  E-6000 glue-  Great for almost everything, and removable if necessary.  Highly recommended.  (Pick up some wooden tongue depressors as well, makes spreading it easier)!  (Photo 1)

     (Please see updated information on E-6000 below, after #50 before purchasing).

2.  Binder or notebook-  To keep notes on your research. 

3.  Dremel or rotary tool-  A "must have".  (Photo 2). Be sure to get the sanding drum attachment and extra sanding drums (Photo 3).  I suggest the 180 grit type.

4.  Small plastic containers-  Keeps everything organized.

5.  Lexan scissors-  Curved and straight, for cutting ABS. (Photo 4)

6.  Small spring clamps-  For holding things in place while gluing.  You can't have too many!  (Photo 5)

7.   Line 24 snaps-  For strapping.  You will need at least 30, and do NOT "cheap-out" on these, but purchase quality ones.  (Steer clear of Wal-Mart snaps).  Tandy is recommended. Tutorial located here:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/  (Photo 6)

8.  Snap setting tools-  There are 2 types to choose from-  One is a two piece set (requires a hammer) (Photo 7) and the other is the pliers style (Photo 8)


9.  Hammer- For setting snaps if you use the 2 piece style of snap setter.

10.  Pliers/vise grips

11.  Screwdriver- Slotted head. 

12.  Rivets-**  5/16 (8mm).  (Photo 9) Round head bifurcated/split rivets with washers.   You will need 9.  (3 for the kidney, 3 for the ab,  one for the cod piece, 2 for the thigh ammo pack). You will also need 3 speed (Chicago") rivets to attach your ABS belt to your canvas one. These are attached by hand and not to be confused with the aluminum ones listed below (#19).   Some like to use the screen accurate single cap rivets (Photo 10) to attach the ammo thigh pack but these are not a requirement.

13.  Elastic-  1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.)  2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps.

14.  Nylon strapping-  1 inch wide black, at least 6 to 8 ft. long.  2 inch wide black (48 inches) for high tension areas if you are using the double snap method. (NP)

15.  Exacto knife/extra blades-  For cutting, trimming, cutting nylon strapping.  (Photo 11)

16.  Heavy duty razor knife/extra blades-  For cutting cover strips and scoring around pieces that will be removed. (Photo 12)

17.  Heavy duty scissors/tin snips-  For (carefully) cutting large sections of ABS. (Photo 13)

18.  Metal ruler or straight edge-  (At least 18 inches long).  For use as a cutting guide, especially cover strips. 

19.  Hand Rivet gun/aluminum open end blind rivets-  For putting your helmet together.  Available for about $10-$12.00, EASY to use!  (Photo 14)

20.  Metric Ruler-

21.  2 x 2 or larger piece of carpet-  Protects work surface, keeps dust down, and stops small parts from rolling away.

22.  Rags/paper towels-  And plenty of them. 

23.  Blue painter's tape-  1 inch and 2 inch widths.  For keeping glued parts in place and dry-fitting your armor.

24.  China marker/pencil-  For marking cut lines.

25.  Sandpaper-  I highly recommend Sandblaster Pro Flexible silicone sanding sheets from 3M, 220 grit.  You will never use anything else, I promise. They last forever!

26.  Sanding block-  The sponge type, 120 grit.

27.  Band Aids-  You will need these.  Might as well keep them handy.

28.  Rare earth magnets-  (10 minimum) SUPER strong!  I use the 20 mm x 3 mm round ones.  Cover them in blue tape to prevent scratching your armor.  You cannot have too many!!!  Tutorial located here:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/  (Photo 15)


29.  Butane Lighter-  For sealing the ends of nylon strapping.  (see # 44 below for a better option)

30.  Large "half-round"  file-  For smoothing out edges before sanding.  I used this a LOT, especially in the curved areas.   (Photo 16)

31.  Small "Needle file" set-  Very inexpensive, comes in 6 different shapes, and is perfect for the teeth and eye openings on your helmet.  (Photo 17)

32.  Foam padding-  1 inch thick.  Great for helmet and armor padding.  Available at craft or fabric stores.

33.  Velcro-  2 inch wide black (various uses) and 1 inch wide white, for calf closures (about 36 inches). Go for the "Industrial Strength" kind.

34.  PAINT:

        Satin Black:     Humbrol # 85  or   Testors # 1747 for vocoder, trap/ tear drop/ear bar outlines/stripe(s), ROTJ and ESB frown, TD screw heads.

        Gray:               Humbrol # 5   or     Testors # 1138  for trap/tear drop/ear bar background, ANH frown and ab-buttons.

        French Blue:   Humbrol # 14  or    Testors # 2715  ForTube stripes/ab buttons.

        Mediterranean Blue   Humbrol  (Tube stripes alternative color)  Testors:  No exact match

        Gloss white   for all rivet heads (excluding cod rivet).

        Mineral spirits for brush cleaning

35.  Goo Gone-  Citrus based solvent that will remove latex and enamel paint and NOT harm your armor.  (Photo 18).

36.  Small paint brushes-  Assorted sizes.  Try to buy quality ones.. Cheap brushes =cheap looking results.  I suggest picking up a "filbert" (Photo 19) style brush (photo 5) as well, as it's rounded tip works great for painting the ab plate buttons and vocoder.  Another GREAT way to get clean, crisp lines on the ab buttons is to use Testors Micro-Sponge brushes (Photo 20).

37.  Wire or fiberglass mesh- (Window screen).  For inside the "frown" of your helmet.  A piece 3 x 8 inches will work fine, and you can trim it as needed.

38.  Safety Glasses-  It never hurts to be too careful, especially when using a Dremel type tool. 


       For your Thermal Detonator, (TD) clips:  (Note: There are some GREAT pre-made TD clips you can buy on this site,  and some kits include them, but you can use the following 5 items to make your own.

39.  Aluminum strip-  1 inch wide

40.  Screws-  Size #6  pan-head slotted screws **, 1/2 inch long,  You will need 4. (Photo 21).  

       NOTE:  The CRLs have been updated and round head screws are permitted, but they must be the slotted (not philips) style.

41.  Hacksaw-  For cutting the aluminum strip.

42.  Drill-  Electric or battery operated, with various size bits. 

43.  Vise grip



44.  Heat sealing iron-  For making return edges.  Not normally needed, but there are some great tutorials on this here on FISD.  Try it on a scrap first, though!

45.  Soldering Iron-  For making holes in nylon strapping and sealing the ends.  Pretty inexpensive, and worth the cost!  (Photo 22)

46.  Plasti-Dip-  A  black rubberized coating you can spray inside your helmet, (also available in a brush-on).  Or, you can use spray paint.  Just remember to sand and prime first! 

47.  Heat gun-  Not normally needed. For shaping ABS.  Use this CAREFULLY, and practice on scraps first until you get the hang of it.  These things can reach 1500 degrees and melt your armor. 

48.  CA (super) glue-  Not recommended for first time builders, as it is PERMANENT, and you can't fix mistakes.  Also, if it drips on your armor it is nearly impossible to remove.  It can also become brittle over time, causing connections to fail.

49.  Acetone-  For use ONLY in making ABS paste for filling small gaps, (see tutorials).  Do NOT put this directly on your armor, as it will melt it

50.  SUGRU-  This is an easy way to attach the lenses in your helmet.   Tutorial located here:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44593-how-to-attach-lenses-using-sugru/


51.  Respirator-  An informative post was made by Clint, (cm325i) concerning the effects of E-6000 glue on some individuals.  Definitely worth a read:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33347-e6000-warnings-read-them-and-wear-a-respirator/

52.  Cut resistant gloves-  Especially helpful if you are prone to cutting yourself.  Available online for about $12.00  (Photo 23)


E-6000 update:  Please note that there are certain online retailers (including those in Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000 or "knock-offs" like these:


                                                                                                              nRZ2Y4v.png?2   hpZShhJ.png?1  gdYuuK6.png?1


The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube.  They do not sell to distributors in Asia, so if you try to save a few bucks by ordering from a seller there it is not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it.  The fake stuff is garbage and will not hold up.  


          1.                        2.                           3.                              4.                               5.                                 6.                      7.                      8.

A3cecGM.jpg?1      CJkXtYz.jpg?2   Hhi4VT9.jpg?2   DA9VbYz.jpg?2     HO3Vayk.jpg?2      grSFrZi.jpg?2      OyCueix.jpg?1      cJ0iZ0n.jpg?2


              9.                               10.                   11.           12.                  13.                   14.                            15.                 16.                    17.

 ld5hpVf.jpg   MIR6tt7.jpg  3DkCdXZ.jpg?2  JVIdp5Z.jpg?2  YfobAFs.jpg?1  v00irVi.jpg?2  5G2KT3Z.jpg?1  fsxUifT.jpg?3  ix9l5Dc.jpg?1


             18.                          19.                                 20.                              21.                                22.                        23.

  ZAOA3Ae.jpg?1  xyJt9oh.jpg?2  BiXLCMG.jpg?2  GI3ZeWo.jpg?3   59nC4aR.jpg?4   TafkZ2i.jpg?1  


                                                                              IMPORTANT UPDATE! 

To make life easier, Ray (Dieltski) made this into an awesome Google spreadsheet, which you can download to keep track and add notes!  Just click  here Thanks, Ray!


  • Like 59
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For item #34 I would suggest changing paint thinner to mineral spirits. Some thinners avaialble on the market are based in the same chemical family as acetone, so it will eat ABS.

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind words, Ken!  I remember what it was like jumping around from post to post, trying to figure out everything I would need.  Hopefully this makes it a bit easier for those embarking on their first build.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice list!! Very informative and helpful. I would ad and consider a couple things:

Although we promote film accuracy, it is not a requirement. The rivets should be moved to the optional section. 

You may also add that for ultimate accuracy, 2 speed rivets should be used on the thigh pack.  7 split rivets, 2 speed rivets.

Many american companies advertise the snaps we use as "line 24 snaps with 5/16 inch post" There are other line 24 snaps with shorter posts that are not long enough for what we do.  This may avoid confusion.

If you are going to mention plasti-dip, you might want to add the brush on kind as well for those who might want a thicker coating.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are "speed rivets"?


All you would ever want to know about rivets can be found here.


A speed rivet is also known as a semi-tubular rivet.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work, Brandon!  I wish I had the room on the original post to describe everything in detail, but it would end up being longer than "War and Peace"!  I am so glad to see people adding to this in with additional info.  Thanks!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using a small shipping blanket to cover my work surface. Works great for catching debris and it's an easy clean up. Plus I took over the living room floor so it's soft to sit on.



Where did you get the speed rivets for the thigh ammo pack?


I highly reccomend a nozzle of some sorts got the E600, large tongue depressors for spreading the adhesive, and lots of blue tape.



Great list!


The slotted screws you have listed do not appear to be correct if my research is true. They should be brass, counter sunk M3-40 machine screw with matching nuts. I think I used a #4 because the #3's are too small. Next time I go to ace I'll write down the type. But it's totally supposed to be brass.


One more thing, stock up on Joanne's and Michael's coupons. I never buy anything without a coupon.

Edited by Joe.Gravelle
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great idea on the tongue depressors, Joe, (added)! My E-6000 came with a nozzle!   I chose the carpet sample as a suggestion because floor space in my house is limited at best, and my dog might find armor an interesting chew toy :)   As far as the rivets, I did not want to show favoritism by listing particular vendors, and cause myself any grief, i.e. "Why didn't you list ME..."?  Blue tape is #23.

As for the screws, I listed ones that will be acceptable at all levels.  The counter sunk machine screws will work just peachy, but for Centurion, they have to be the slotted ones as shown in the photo below, and since the heads are painted black, steel ones are fine.  My reasoning was that it is easier to use this type in the beginning, and if you want to go to higher levels down the line, you are already ahead of the game.

Yes, I think I must have gone through about a dozen Michael's coupons, but since there are future TKs all over the world, I left this out.  Good call for those of us near one, though, and many thanks for the input!  

Looking forward to trooping with you soon here in central FL.!



Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the same spirit, i've always found these diagrams by Billhag extremely handy for new comers.

On 9/11/2014 at 12:47 AM, Billhag said:

Here's a few old 'Bill-o-grams' that we have posted up over on the UKG that might come in handy :)
















Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated
  • Like 13
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...