LeMaxim's DVH ANH BlasTech E11 build

[LeMaxim[TK]]

As a first step in becoming a TK proper I thought I'd start with building myself a BlasTech E-11 blaster.

I figured I would feel silly as a trooper without a blaster and I will be wanting to go out trooping as soon as my armour is finished and approved (link to build thread will be added when it's available).

So. While waiting for the armour to arrive I thought I'd start here. 

 

After some lurking and researching I found the DoopyDoo's resin kit. Seemed like a fair thing at a fair price. Their webpage, however, left me wondering if they still were in business.

I did some more researching and finally found Dday's European run of Darth Voorhees' (DVH) E-11 resin kits after having had a lengthy, and enlightening, chat with Nicky. 

 

This build is based on the DVH resin kit.

I could make it simple and keep it to that, but in order to better understand the history and the parts of the E-11 prop I decided to split the build into the individual parts required for it.

I have tried to arrange the parts in an hierarchical manner to keep parts and sub-parts in some kind of logical order. In the event that I would want to replace or upgrade a part this would help me to keep parts separated.

Having a background in programming and with a somewhat perverse fascination with data and systems I had to force myself to not put the parts down in XML.

 

I've tried to keep it simple by first splitting the parts into Sterling derived (i.e. parts that come from a Sterling SMG) and non Sterling derived parts. 

 

I'm not going to rush this build. I have some time until my armour arrives and this will be my first venture into anything like this for a very, very, very long time, so I will try to savour this and make it as nicely as I can.

 

I will keep this first post updated as I move forward with the build to give myself and any followers or casual readers an easy overview of the progress and the things involved.

 

Please feel free to send me pointers or comments on my progress or any omissions. 

I will try to document everything as I hope to learn a lot and to contribute in some way. 

 

=====General Information===========================================================

Base: DVH E-11 Black Onyx Resin (BOR) Kit + PVC pipe

 

Status: Build started. Cleaning BOR parts for fitting.

 

Build Started: 2013-05-31

Build Finished: not yet.

================================================================================

 

Information resources and Inspirational sources: 

 

General 

FISD General TK resources thread 

FISD Advanced ANH Weaponry (E-11 Blaster) thread

FISD The Best Sterling Templates Ever thread 

 

Parts specific

Targeting Sensors - 3 Central Fuses on E11 Blaster Cylinders (FISD)

 

Builds

Nicky's DVH build (FISD)

The5thHorseman's DVH build (FISD)

 

Materials

[ ][ ][ ] = Individual part or group of parts identified and currently being researched / sourced.

 

[x][ ][ ] = Part sourced and ordered 

[x][x][ ] = Part received and being worked on

[x][x][x] = Part finished (possibly pending mounting / attachment)

 = Sub-part of above group.

Followed by part/group name - Source/brand - [Material, if applicable and relevant] OR current status of sourcing-thoughts if it isn't already sourced and ordered.

(for tools and other material I only use two [ ][ ] levels to mark research [ ][ ], ordered [x][ ] and received [x][x])

 

Parts sourcing 

 

Sterling parts

[x][x][ ] Receiver Body - IKEA - [steel]

[x][x][ ] Muzzle - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Muzzle Screws - found - [metal]

[x][x][ ] Front Sight - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][x] Muzzle Shield - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][x] Bayonet Lug - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][x] Ejector Shield - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Clip Housing - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Clip Screw - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Clip Pin - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Clip - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Clip Lock - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][x] Rear Sight - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] End Cap Lug - IKEA - [Plastic]

[x][x][ ] End Cap - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] D-Ring  - DVH - [steel]

[x][x][x] Stock Clip  - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Folding Stock  - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Grip / Handle Assembly

[x][x][ ] Grip  - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Handle / Main assembly  - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Trigger - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Trigger Guard - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Selector Switch - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Grip Screw - found - [metal]

[x][x][ ] Bolt - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][x] Cocking Handle  - DVH - [bOR]

[ ][ ][ ] Return Spring

 

Non Sterling parts

[x][x][ ] Targeting Sensor (a.k.a. fuses) - DVH - [bOR]

[x][x][ ] Scope Power Unit (a.k.a. Hengstler Counter) - DVH / TK Bondservnt - [bOR]

[ ][ ][ ] Counter graphics

[x][x][ ] Scope (M38) - DVH / TK Bondservnt - [bOR]

[ ][ ][ ] Scope graphics

[x][x][ ] Scope Rail - Dday (included in DVH kit) - [aluminium]

[x][x][ ] Counter Bracket - Dday (included in DVH kit) - [aluminium]

[ ][ ][ ] Power Wires

[x][x][x] Cooling Coils (a.k.a. T-tracks) - Marv (through Dday) - [plastic]

 

Other Material

[ ][ ] Glue

[ ][ ] Paint

[ ][ ] …

 

Tools

[x][x] Hobby Hacksaw

[x][x] Drill bits 6mm, 9mm, 10mm

[x][x] Circular/round staff file

[x][x] Dremel with various tools (sandpaper...)

[x][x] Power drill on stand

[x][x] Heat gun

...

 

Progress-o-meter

2013-05-06 - DVH kit ordered

2013-05-17 - T-tracks arrived

2013-05-21 - Build Thread started (this)

2013-05-22 - DVH kit arrived

2012-05-31 - Build started

2013-06-02 - Updated the "build plan" to allow for more levels of completion.

2013-06-23 - T-tracks, bolt and cocking handle fitted. Additional parts trimmed. 

Edited June 27, 2013 by LeMaxim

[LeMaxim[TK]]

T-tracks received and waiting for company

 

[The5thHorseman[TK]]

So will I be the only one to have the guts to use the resin T-tracks provided ^^ ?!?

Or maybe I'm just the only one too much greedy about his money   !!

 

Good luck with your build. I'll be following it if ever you need some advice

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Thanks Germain! I'll keep a close eye on your build for inspiration =)

 

I'll surely have a lot of head scratching and asking to do when the kit arrives.

 

As it turned out the resin T-tracks had been stolen away by Jawas (presumably) so Dday helped to hook me up with some T-tracks from Marv. Otherwise I'd start with the resin ones too.

[Dday[501st]]

This build is way too organized!

 

I'm really looking forward to the rest once the kit arrives. It should be around the end of this week if the arrival of some other kits went a few days before is any indication.

[SuperficialBurn]

Super excited about this build.  I should be starting something like this shortly myself.  Love the organization!!

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Thank you guys. =)

 

I need the organisation so I have a place to go when I black-out.

 

Also a good way for me to better understand the different parts of the build.

Keeps me busy while waiting for the parts too.  

 

If it helps any one else too I'd be super happy.

 

@Derrek: Yeah. Any day now. Still much to learn though.  

 

@Dan: Let me know when you get started and I'll be sure to follow your build too. It's an exciting world to get into. =)

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

I really appreciate the mention of my name in the list... it makes me feel all star wars...

if you hve any questions along the way, ask before you glue.

 

lot's of parts need placement identification and positioning.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

I really appreciate the mention of my name in the list... it makes me feel all star wars...

if you hve any questions along the way, ask before you glue.

 

lot's of parts need placement identification and positioning.

 

Thank you. I'll sure be needing some input when this gets rolling.

 

"Ask before you glue" and "measure twice, cut once" are two good maxims I've picked up here.

I always try to listen to good maxims.

 

Yes. I read that you supplied the originals for the cast of the Hengstler and M38.

Seeing how every build here is a community effort, one way or the other, I hope I'll be able to credit everyone involved.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

[brief Update]

 

Mr. Postman came with a nice brown box today.

 

 

After the initial inspection and some confusion I managed to lay everything out in a rough map (including the T-tracks I already had). 

 

 

Also included in the box was a whole lot of blaster bolts. Disappointingly in rebel-green. 

 

 

I'm afraid I will not have time to dig into this until this weekend, but I'll keep it mapped out to get a feel for what's to come.

 

Next up I'll try to make a more detailed list of parts and continue trying to figure out other materials needed.

 

And as a final sign-off for today I'll echo a very fitting quote:

 

 

"Oh My..."

- George Takei

(famous for his portrayal of Lok Durd in the Clone Wars)

 

[Dday[501st]]

Thumbs up man, looking forward to this one!

[sekullbe]

Having a background in programming and with a somewhat perverse fascination with data and systems I had to force myself to not put the parts down in XML.

 

Perfectly understandable. (I'm also a software guy). My own OCD method of organization for my DVH Wave 2 blaster build is a tool called 'Trello' (trello.com). It's based around 'cards' organized into 'lists' so I'm making one card for every part and noting down status, todos, and details like "don't drill that hole from the template". Looks to me like cleaning up the parts and drilling the pipe are going to be the tricky bits, but it's entirely possible that I haven't the foggiest idea what I'm talking about. I'll have my own build thread when I get around to it

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Perfectly understandable. (I'm also a software guy). My own OCD method of organization for my DVH Wave 2 blaster build is a tool called 'Trello' (trello.com). It's based around 'cards' organized into 'lists' so I'm making one card for every part and noting down status, todos, and details like "don't drill that hole from the template". Looks to me like cleaning up the parts and drilling the pipe are going to be the tricky bits, but it's entirely possible that I haven't the foggiest idea what I'm talking about. I'll have my own build thread when I get around to it

 

Trello. Have to check that out. Thanks for the advice. OCD FTW.

 

Anyway. I've just started my build this weekend after having too much else to do before. Will post progress pictures later today. For now I've just updated the OCD part of the build-thread (i.e. the first post).

[LeMaxim[TK]]

So. It seems it took a little longer to get to the point of actually writing things down for a progress report and seeing how this would be

a picture intense report I wanted to register an account at Photobucket.com to make it easier to share the pictures without bogging down

the FISD servers and my account here.

 

In short I'm currently in the process of cleaning the BOR pieces.

 

To take you up to speed with my progress so far:

 

I figured the receiver body would be a good place to start the build. It's one of the most defining things and seeing it was just a pipe it still needed some fixing.

Since all pieces go on it I wanted it to at least resemble what it would look finished. 

 

I was swamped with work and couldn't really get started properly during the week so I took the time to do some more research now that I actually had the BOR parts at hand.

My girlfriend in her infinite wisdom said she didn't want any resin or plastic powder in the flat so she offered me to use the ventilation box they use at her studio for painting and glazing.

She's a ceramic artist and designer so she have plenty of experience with troublesome material and didn't want it to fill our small apartment. So I also had to wait for the ventilated box to be free. 

 

As I researched I realised that the kit-supplied PVC pipe was a bit to the thick side with its 42 mm outer diameter (OD) and 4 mm thick walls.

I noted that many had used this size with success but I wanted to see if I could find a more precise pipe.

So. Armed with a calliper I went on a scavenger hunt in my surroundings. 

 

My hunt was successful and I found a pipe that seems to fit the bill to great extent. Reading that the Sterling receiver body had an OD of 38 mm

or 38.1 mm I found a perfect match on one of the desks at my place of work. Assuming they would miss the leg I decided to look for the source instead. 

 

Bingo! Not only is it, as far as I can see, a near perfect match, it is also easy to come by internationally and cheap.

 

Leg packaged.

 

The leg comes from IKEA (product name: Galant) and cost $10 / €10 / £5 / 50 SEK Link for US Webshop (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40057457/)

 

Leg unpacked. 

 

For the sake of this build I'll keep the inner part of the leg (the top pipe pictured below). It unscrews easily and you'll be able to pull it out.

(The outer pipe measures, roughly, at 45 mm OD and 1.5 mm wall thickness (calliper not available at the time of writing) and will probably come in handy for some other build)

 

Leg disassembled.

 

Apart from the actual pipe (steel) there are two more things to use from the leg. Looking at the picture above you'll see the plastic "joint sealer" (grey) that seals the inner and outer pipe.

The second part to save is the inner part of the feet. 

 

The "joint sealer" (grey plastic thingy) fits nicely as an end cap lug.

 

Foot with inner part partly pulled out showing. The grey part fits nicely to attach the E11 muzzle on.

 

First thing to do would be to get the black part of the foot removed. I first tried to accomplish this by use of force, screwdriver and hacksaw while the foot was completely out of the leg.

Don't do that. It only gives you pain and leaves ugly marks on the parts. When I gathered my wits I put the foot back in the leg and simply bent the black outer part of with my hand. Simple.

The parts are connected as a ball-joint so it pops out and leaves you a nice inner part with a good indentation/hole. 

 

 

You can remove the inner part with a flat head screwdriver. 

 

Second thing to do is to remove the top part and its mechanics. I accomplished this by simply taking my hacksaw and sawing roughly 1 cm

below the indentations that hold the mechanism in place.

 

 

This left about a centimetre to cut in order have the E11 length but at the time I wasn't all too sure and I didn't feel to steady on my hands so I wanted to leave a bit of margin for errors.

If I'd do it again I would cut at E11 length directly. 

 

E11 end cap and the first fitting on the leg

 

 

E11 muzzle and foot for visual reference. The foot is the same diameter as the muzzle and, as I'll show later, makes a nice fit

 

When the pipe for the receiver body was cleared of the excess parts I fitted it with the printout plans from "The Best Sterling Template Ever" thread on FISD forum (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/).

 

I used simple wood glue to glue the paper plans to the pipe as I (correctly) assumed it would be easy to tear of later.

The pipe have some measurements printed on one side so I started to apply a string of glue there as it would be the bottom.

I figured the stock would cover the measurement if it remained visible in any way.

I aligned the muzzle side of the plans with the foot side of the pipe as that side was cut at IKEAs factories. The side I sawed of with hacksaw would be covered by the end cap anyway. 

After the bottom was attached to the plan I smeared glue on the rest of the pipe and rolled the rest of the plans stuck to it. Some alignment was necessary.

 

     

 

In retrospect I have two things i would consider and that I recommend anyone taking cues from this build. 

1. The measurement is printed on the pipe (not laser etched as I first thought) and they can be easily removed with a knife or even your nails.

2. The wood glue makes the paper wet and be careful so that it doesn't tear when aligning it. 

 

The next step was to drill out the holes of the plan. Since I only had a wibbly wobbly drill set up available this part of the build was quite sweaty.

Steel is rather hard and even at roughly 1-1.5 mm thickness it was quite stubborn. I used a combination of small drill bits, a hacksaw and a plain hammer and nail (!)

to make guide marks for the bigger drill bits. As it turned out a common household drill only supports drill bits at up to 10 mm so the holes became a bit less than the

accurate 10.7 mm (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/).

The wibbly wobbliness of the drill also made the holes quite irregular and, lets say, artistic.

I read somewhere (reference will be added when I rediscover it) that the Sterling was designed to be able to be assembled in a resistance-cell-workshop in France during WWII.

So I'll call my pipe a quick and dirty resistance build. 

 

After much training of patience and temper I left a nice pile of steel dust and a soon-to-be overheated drill.

 

  

 

(at this time I also sawed of the last centimetre of the pipe back to the size of the plan)

 

As I wanted to share my find of the pipe and how I am using it in my build I continued the next day with the parts that directly relate to the leg-pipe and the parts salvaged from it. The muzzle and end cap. 

 

Having no previous experience with using a Dremel I tried out on one of my girlfriends plaster-leftovers.

At first it was sheer panic, but after a while I started to feel quite comfortable in using it and felt ready to use it in my build. 

 

 

First of I started with the muzzle. The BOR muzzle came with some extras from the mould that probably is very useful with some pipes, but since I was planning

to use it with the inner part of the foot from the leg I started by sawing it off with my now trusted hacksaw. The result was a bit crooked, but the fit on the foot is good. 

 

   

 

Secondly I wanted to replace the BOR screws supplied in the kit with proper metal ones. I found a bunch of these when rummaging through a box of old screws.

Having read other build threads I've learnt that there shouldn't be a problem finding these screws in a hardware shop. I just was lucky to have a few lying about.

I used two drill bits to, by slowly turning them by hand, drilling holes for the screws and the muzzle. At this time I was at home and didn't want to risk the dust with a power drill. 

I used 6 mm drill bits for the screws and finished them of with a round file to fit the screws. For the muzzle I used, unsurprisingly, a 9 mm drill bit. I used the file to smoothen the hole.

The BOR cast of the muzzle already have a hole in it so it's not necessary to drill this hole, but I plan to put a nut in the ball-joint-hole of the foot so that I may screw a brightly

coloured bolt into the muzzle if/when trooping at locations where it's necessary to clearly show that it's a nonfunctioning replica gun. This might be an overkill but I figured it is easy

enough to do this during the build. I haven't started with this part yet, but in the meantime I guess it's easily visualised by anyone who reads this. 

 

     

 

(black markings on the "foot" are my preliminary markings for screw holes)

 

Next I wanted to fix the foot part of the muzzle. I started by measuring and trimming the foot (leaving a rather interesting looking leftover that probably

will come in handy for another prop so I left it together with the outer pipe of the leg). I measured the foot by just aligning it with the pipe and checking

where the holes start. As it turns out they start at the inner base of the ball-joint. Another convenient happenstance.

Wise from my hurtful tries of separating the ball-joint earlier I simply put the unwanted part of the foot into the pipe and hacksawed it of while holding the pipe comfortably.

I then filed the part I'm using for the muzzle slightly to get a nice( r ) edge on it and fitted it into the receiver body to see.  

 

     

 

Fairly satisfied with the result I continued to drill holes for the muzzle screws so that I could attach the muzzle to the foot. 

 

  

 

(Sadly I forgot to take a picture of the assembly mounted in the receiver body. But you get the idea.)

 

Next, and final part of this leg of the build (pun intended) was to fix the the end cap. I started by cleaning of the pouring sprout excess from the BOR end cap.

After that I started to gradually cut away from the "joint-seal" I saved from the leg to use as end cap lug. I accomplished this by looking at reference pictures and

little by little cutting, filing and Dremling away parts until I finally had the in-and-twist grooves finished. Probably an overkill as I most likely won't be using a spring

that otherwise would keep the end cap locked in position. Firstly because the BOR probably wouldn't support it, and secondly because I haven't found any yet.

It was, however, a nice therapeutic task to accomplish.

 

         

 

At the end of this session I had tried and, rather successfully, managed to take an IKEA leg and turning it into the first part of this pipe built ANH E11 blaster prop. 

 

 

Pieces laid out

 

The pipe is not yet finished and I will try to make the went holes prettier and I need to cut open the the other holes in it too.

I just wanted to share my find and build so far. 

 

As a note: 

IKEA also have another leg with the same diameters (Vika Kaj - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60105301/ ) but it's between 50% - 150% more expensive than the leg I used. It could serve as an alternative though. 

They also have a cheap leg with the outer diameter of 40 mm (Adils, http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70217973/ ) at half the price. Haven't checked the inner diameter, but I guess it's an alternative for someone that want to build a 40 mm E11. 

 

 

[Dday[501st]]

Astounded, I am. Strong in the way of the blaster you are!

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Astounded, I am. Strong in the way of the blaster you are!

 

Thank you for that kind comment. I think it's premature though. More like stubborn. Not too happy about the holes in the pipe, but I think they can be saved / prettified. They are mostly covered anyway.

 

The leg was a good find and it makes things easier to get the pipe. 

 

It's an excellent pipe for the DVH kit.

 

Right now I'm just eager to get that blaster cleaned, glued, painted and weathered.  

[The5thHorseman[TK]]

I just hope you'll managed to cut the ejector port in that pipe without too much issues  . The PVC pipe isn't the best but the advantage of it is that you can make the difficultly reachable cuts with an x-acto.

Good luck !

[LeMaxim[TK]]

I just hope you'll managed to cut the ejector port in that pipe without too much issues . The PVC pipe isn't the best but the advantage of it is that you can make the difficultly reachable cuts with an x-acto.

Good luck !

 

Yeah... I haven't tackled that specific issue yet. Trying to get hold of a less wibbly wobbly drill set up. Will try with a Dremel too. I'm still very new to this. If all else fails I know where I can find a new pipe. Live and learn, live and learn.

 

I'll let you know how it turns out.

[LeMaxim[TK]]

So. 

 

After putting it off for some time I decided to try to tackle the ejector port and, for lack of better word, the slide track (for the cocking handle). 

 

My first problem was realising that I had to print and align another plan for the receiver body. It worked, but I would have been happier if 

I thought about it and at least put proper markings out for the rest of the holes. Live and learn. 

 

Having virtually no prior experience with metalworking and cutting metal with a Dremel I still was very anxious about this part. 

I clamped the receiver body down on a styrofoam bed and hoped for the best. 

 

 

This kept the receiver body securely in place. So much so that I couldn't reach and work with it properly. I rethought. 

 

 

This new one point clamping made it easy to move around and reach. (Also visible in the picture are my previous drill-holes)

On to the work.

 

After much turning, sweating and silent prayers I managed to cut out a nice base for the ejection port.

Considering this was my first experience with the metal cutter blade on the Dremel and cutting metal I was very happy with the result even though it was rough. 

No other tools than the metal cutter was used for this. Cutting little by little I managed to get small pieces away until I could finally do some sweeping cuts to get the round edges. 

 

 

Next challenge was to get the sliding track for the cocking handle cut out.

I had, previously, drilled a smaller (10mm) hole at the end to get myself started. It was a very crooked hole and not much to look at.  

 

After an initial cut with the Dremel I decided that this would be too difficult and that I needed to drill out as much as possible before returning to the cutter. 

I used my hacksaw to get some guiding cuts. Not very pretty but I knew I would need them for drilling.

 

 

The drilling was not at all a success so I tried another approach. 

First I cut/scratched the lines of the slide track onto the pipe. It was fairly easy with an exacto knife edge. 

Next I unmounted the saw blade of my hacksaw and remounted it inside the already cut hole. 

From there I sawed as much as I could reach with the saw. 

 

  

 

This gave me a large enough hole to continue with the cutting blade of the dremel. This was time consuming but I wanted it done, and I had no other options present. 

I basically cut as much as I could up, down, middle and then polish away the prongs that were left. 

 

 

This went on for quite some time before I finally ended up with this

 

 

 

To keep myself calm while doing it I was sucking on trooper mints. 

 

At the end of this session I had myself a rough cut ejector port and slide track

 

 

 

 

 

And a lot of dust and residue. 

 

 

 

All in all I was happy with my first try at this:

 

 

 

=== Time passed and seasons changed === 

 

Several days later I felt ready to start to prettify the cutouts from the previous session. 

I the days between I had had the privilege to be a supporter at one of the troops of the local garrison (Nordic Garrison) for the third time.

This time was special as I got the opportunity to stand in as Vader.

"Third time's a charm" they say, and the name of the charm was Vader.

 

Back to the E11. 

 

For this session I had three areas I wanted to tackle and prettify. The ejector port, the slide track, and the vent holes. 

All these were only roughly done before and looked like something only a mother could love. 

Me, being the mother in this metaphor of metal mayhem, had taken a trip to the local hardware store to pick up some grinding stones for the dremel. 

Armed with these I started polishing away. 

 

To get the slide track smooth I first used a 6 mm drill bit to test slide. When that worked I changed to the BOR cocking handle. 

 

 

Unfortunately I got too much into the polishing so I have no other pictures of this.

Just to illustrate I the before and after I have some vent holes to show.

 

Before 

After 

 

Please tell me you see the difference. They are a bit individual still but I feel quite good about them.

 

After a whole lot of polishing/grinding I had to replace the grindstone two times. 

I feel it was worth it. The sweet feeling of creating. 

 

 

What do you think? Passable as Sterling receiver? 

 

With this done, for now, I feel it's time to really dig into the BOR parts. 

Next time Gadget, next time. 

 

Tools involved in the making of this part: 

 

 

(Please note the before and after of the cutter blade.   )

 

As a bonus for bearing with me to here you I give you: Vader-Me with TK and TS friend. 

 

 

TK-54321, Vader LeMaxim, TS-Linda (sister of TS-0518), and a lady who didn't feel too calm about having Vaders hand on her shoulder. 

 

This trooping preview was awesome and I cannot wait to get started with my TK and joining the ranks of the Legion and FISD. 

[The5thHorseman[TK]]

The hardest is done ! Great job with the sanding/grinding, i turned out very well.

 

And have you tested to slide the cocking handle all the way along the sliding track ? Because sometimes even if you followed the template well you may have to widen the opening a bit.

 

 

PS: You can do better with the dremel cuttuing blade

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Oh my! What ever did you cut to grind those down so much? Now I feel like a lowly cadet again.

 

Yes. I started with a drill bit with the same width as the plan and then I followed up with the actual cocking handle. Good thing I did.

 

Thanks. It was an adventure, but I'm fairly happy with the result.

 

Now it's time for the rest.

[Evilboy[501st]]

In addition to the metal cutting disks, the metal grinding disks also help IMMENSELY. I would also say, at the LOW price and with the lessons you have learned, you could buy another leg from Ikea and start again.

 

All that aside, I would say you are doing an absolutely amazing job and I am very impressed with your ingenuity. I am running out to Ikea this afternoon and picking up a couple of those legs for my DVH!

[LeMaxim[TK]]

Metal grinding discs you say... I've got to get me a few of those. Thanks for the tip. I didn't even know I that existed. Curse my poorly stocked hardware store. Need to get an online supplier of Dremel goodies.

 

The thought of getting a new leg and redo it have crossed my mind. As of now I'll keep it and see how well I succeed with the resin parts. I have my armour coming any day now so right now I will focus on getting the blaster ready. Having had a go at this I'm really getting into the prop-builders-mind and nothing is safe at home anymore:

"Doesn't this bowl look like the top of a Snowie helmet?"

 

I'm already planning to build another blaster with more "scratch built" parts.

 

Good luck with the IKEA-run. I hope you'll find the legs as useful in your builds as I have.

 

(OT: I'll be sending you a PM about your fan-system soon. )

[Evilboy[501st]]

This:

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ541GR-Lock-Grinding-Wheel/dp/B003NSBG8G

 

And PM replied! I also make the Scope rails and counter brackets for the E-11 Blasters as well as the TD clips for your armor if you should need them!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

They are what I used too, if you hold the dremel and rest it against a surface you can really get a nice straight cut, never had to fix any of my cuts and the disc last for ages with only cutting ABS