TK-42779[501st] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 If this has been a topic already forgive me, I used the search feature and went pretty far back before I gave in and decided to start this thread. What do you use for your snaps method? Plastic snap plates or nylon and why? Pros and cons? Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HockeyTrooper[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Hey Tony, My kit currently uses a bit of both. I actually made plastic snap plates, then glued nylon over the back of that, then glued the whole thing to the armor where I needed it. It's a bit messy and doesn't look as good as it could. The reason I had to do this was because the "rounded" end of the snap plate would sit or glue very easily on my armor, so I added the nylon to get better surface contact. One probably I had with strictly Nylon as a plate is getting the snap to come together nicely through the nylon. It is pretty thick stuff and you have to cut the hole, then give it a really good pounding to make it work. What I would recommend though is following one of the recent threads I have seen in the How To. Whoever did it made their plastic snap plates then used a heat gun to carefully press the snaps "back side" so it was flush or close to flush with the plate. If I can locate the thread I'll link it to you. -Bennett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongoose[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I used nylon, lots of places I wanted to put the snaps the plastic wasn't flat. With there being a little bit of a curve I figured the nylon would lay flat easier as it would contour to the shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HockeyTrooper[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Here is a great How To for 3 different methods: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20999-howto-make-snap-plates-3-different-ways/ Based on looking at those, I'm pretty sure when I made my snaps plates I used the wrong end of the snap on the plate. Putting the male snap in the plate seems to work much better than having the female snap in the plate (which is the mistake I made). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Yeah the how-tos are there I am more curious on people's opinions on why they used them and some pros and cons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Hey Tony, My kit currently uses a bit of both. I actually made plastic snap plates, then glued nylon over the back of that, then glued the whole thing to the armor where I needed it. It's a bit messy and doesn't look as good as it could. The reason I had to do this was because the "rounded" end of the snap plate would sit or glue very easily on my armor, so I added the nylon to get better surface contact. One probably I had with strictly Nylon as a plate is getting the snap to come together nicely through the nylon. It is pretty thick stuff and you have to cut the hole, then give it a really good pounding to make it work. What I would recommend though is following one of the recent threads I have seen in the How To. Whoever did it made their plastic snap plates then used a heat gun to carefully press the snaps "back side" so it was flush or close to flush with the plate. If I can locate the thread I'll link it to you. -Bennett According to the how-to you did it the hard way. lol I like the soldering iron method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 In the snap plate article Matt Black links to the heat gun trick for plastic snap plates. www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20893-how-to-recess-press-studs I used nylon webbing because if seemed easier and more forgiving. Plus... I sucked at cutting up plastic sign material. Aloha, -Eric 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 In the snap plate article Matt Black links to the heat gun trick for plastic snap plates. www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20893-how-to-recess-press-studs I used nylon webbing because if seemed easier and more forgiving. Plus... I sucked at cutting up plastic sign material. Aloha, -Eric So what have you learned from using the nylon method, Eric? Do you troop often and have there been any issues? Did you use E6000 like most people do with the plastic snap plate method? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HockeyTrooper[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 According to the how-to you did it the hard way. lol I like the soldering iron method. Yeah, I definitely did it the hard way. I dig the nylon snaps using the soddering iron. Eventually I'm going to go back and redo my strap system for my entire torso...maybe after 3PO...and med school Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I'm using a combination of both, but I highly prefer the nylon plates. They're more flexible for the curved areas of the armour. I'm attaching them with Plumber's Goop and its working on the snap plates just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I'm using a combination of both, but I highly prefer the nylon plates. They're more flexible for the curved areas of the armour. I'm attaching them with Plumber's Goop and its working on the snap plates just fine. So why Plumber's Goop and not E6000? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Potty Meister Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I've been on the waiting list for ATA armor since the first week in June, so I've had ample time to make me some nylon snap plates. I just used a soldering iron to poke a hole through the nylon before putting the snap in it. The general consensus I got from the experience of others, is that nylon snap plates are just easier to fit to the curves of the armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectre Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I recommend using nylon ones (or even elastic). Much more forgiving, and the E6000 loves the fabric, it dries within the hour instead of the usual 24 hours for plastic to plastic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mogwai[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I recommend using nylon ones (or even elastic). Much more forgiving, and the E6000 loves the fabric, it dries within the hour instead of the usual 24 hours for plastic to plastic. I was going to say the same. It dries very fast with nylon and sticks very good to the armor. And you can easy use it on the curved parts of the Armor. Works just great, never had a Problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I wouldn't touch a nylon snap plate glued with E-6000 for 24 hours. Leave the magnets or clamps on for maybe even more. They'll likely pop off otherwise. To answer your question about what I learned? I learned to use more E-6000 than I thought I should initially. I learned to us double magnet clamps on curved areas. Also that using thin nylon is better (not sure about elastic frankly) than the stupid thick stuff I used. Check out my RT build thread for my silly nylon snap plate process. People (Vern) say that E-6000 melts plastic when it comes in contact with metal. That wasn't my experience but I was still very very careful not to touch metal and glue. I even thought about putting clear nail polish on the back of the snap and letting it dry, but I came to my senses. Tape is probably the easier option. The plastic plates just seem liked a total PITA and way less forgiving than the nylon ones. I also sucked at cutting up plastic for sale signs. Lopping off 1.5 to 2" of nylon from an easily acquired roll seemed super easy... cause I'm lazy. However lots of people use plastic snap plates happily. De gustibus non est disputandum. Aloha, -Eric 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 (edited) So why Plumber's Goop and not E6000? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 I simply had access to a bunch of it for free. I also found a few posts on here claiming that Plumbers Goop is the same thing as E-6000 (strong 24 hour adhesive) except its not as reactive when contacting metal. I tested it on a snap at one point and did not notice any rise in temperature. It's got a good permanent hold and if need be you can still pry it apart to make adjustments. Edited October 10, 2012 by Owen91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 (edited) Like I said in my how to thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20893-how-to-recess-press-studs/ use a heat gun and form your snap plate to any shape, works well for me, good luck what you decide Edited October 10, 2012 by gmrhodes13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clamps[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I used Nylon strapping material and they are quite secure.They conform to the armour shape nicely. Time will tell how secure, but nothing is remotely coming loose after a couple months. I used a punch tool to make the holes in mine, I tried the solder iron, but it took way to much time and effort. The punch tool was one of my better purchases in this TK built. As was an inexpensive 12lb anvil. it saved me from having to go upstairs and outside to hammer all those damn snaps! That woulda been a bummer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcosmo1[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I recently added nylon snap plates to my armor. Soldering iron once hot works like a charm. As many other people have already stated, e-6000 for glue. They conform very well to curves in armor and seem very secure. They have held up for 3 troops and numerous fittings without a problem. Time will tell if they hold up for the long haul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Thanks for all of the feedback guys and hopefully this will be good for others who wonder the same thing. Sounds like the only factor that would make me choose one over the other is weather or not I want to take the extra time to heat gun the plastic plates to the shape of the armor. Nylon sounds like the way to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YouCantBe Sidious[TK] Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Plastic can crack under pressure. Looks pretty though! Nylon has been my preferred method and it has worked very well for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectre Posted October 13, 2012 Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 I've never had the issue with E6000 having a heat reaction. It is only certain types of metal I think, and most snaps should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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