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Darth Aloha

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Everything posted by Darth Aloha

  1. See below for a printable PDF version. ANH Stunt Expert Infantry Visual Checklist.pdf
  2. Expert Infantry Application Guidelines Creating Application Post Request 501st membership status Create new post in the Request Expert Infantry Status forum Format the topic title as follows: TK0123 requesting COSTUME_NAME EIB status [ARMOR TYPE] List the mandatory costume information below Put photos directly into the post Photo Guidelines Size: Photo size larger than 800x600 (preferably 1280 x 960) to allow the DO to see your armor's details. 1024x768 Lighting: Try to take your pictures with good light. Direct sunlight is not good, as it gives hard edges. Using flash is also bad, as it creates too much contrast, colors turn out weird and will concentrate light on one point. You can put yourself next to a window during the day to get a nice indirect lateral light, without the need to use flash or additional light sources. Photo Background: Try to use a neutral color such as medium grey or tan. Too dark or too light backgrounds are problematic. The white armor parts or the dark underarmor parts tend to blend with those backgrounds. Try to use a solid color or simple background. Do not use white or red backgrounds. Framing: Ensure the full body photos contain both your boots and the top of the helmet. Try to reduce the amount of space between your body and the edge of the photo. Ask the photographer to zoom or step close enough to allow you to fill up the photo with as much of you as possible. Inserting Photos - Post your photos directly into submission post. If you are unsure how to do this, read this tutorial or ask on the forum. Do not put link to the photos in your request. * Note: if a particular detail noted in the CRL is not clearly visible, the applicant may be asked to provide additional photos. Application Photo Checklist Click on image to download PDF. Expert Infantry Application Photo Checklist.pdf Sample Costume Information Mandatory Information Armor = Armor Maker Helmet= Helmet Maker Blaster= Blaster Type Optional Height = Your Height Weight = Your Weight Boots = Boot Maker Canvas belt = Belt Maker Hand Plates = Hand Plate Type Electronics= Voice Electronics Maker Neck Seal = Neckseal Type/Maker Holster = Holster Maker Sample Application Photos Armor Photos Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Right Side Detail Left SIde Detail Helmet Detail Photos Front Side Back Hovi tip detail Lens color (Backlit if necessary) Accessory Photos Ammo belt Neckseal Blaster left side Blaster right side Thermal detonator back Action Shot Optional Interior Strapping Abdomen Detail
  3. Darth Aloha

    TheSwede locked out

    I wouldn’t be surprised if some folks aren’t getting email. We did change the to way mail is sent. We’ll take a peek soon. Anyone else seeing problems with email notifications? -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Folks, We are moving the FISD web server to a faster and non shared server tomorrow. Starting around 1 AM EDT (0500 GMT) on Wednesday August 15 the forum will be inaccessible for about 24 hours. Thank you for your patience, -Eric
  5. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    Is all still happy? I did some stuff to help the load on the server on the 21st... it doesn't seem to have any untoward effects from a user's standpoint. I hope. Thanks, -Eric
  6. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    Interesting. That’s exactly the sort of stuff I’m curious about. Lemme know if it happens regularly. Thanks. -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    Has anyone noticed anything different/weird since last night with forum performance? -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    I may be fiddling with the web server tonight EDT trying to improve the performance even more. If you notice a blip or two... that's all me. -Eric
  9. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    Whew. What’s also nice about the new server is that the legion web team have pretty good monitoring on memory, CPU. database connections etc.... If we find that we are outgrowing the server we can add resources on the fly. Or the next time there is a racing shirt run or some sort of (more) plastic spaceman drama erupts and the forum gets really busy -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    Yep. It looks like they fixed it. I left the trouble ticket open just in case things go south again. -Eric
  11. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    I've had some back and forth with support... but I made the dumb mistake of not making the ticket as "site down" I think. That means they're being kinda slow about it. For those that care... the problem is in how we display forum URLs. I don't know how it got F'd during the upgrade but it is indeed F'd up... .and I don't know how to fix it. Hopefully they'll fix it soon. Thanks for your continued patience. -Eric
  12. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    No word from support yet. -Eric
  13. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    I couldn't figure it out. I put in a trouble ticket with the forums software support folks. Liking posts seems to work again I think. -Eric
  14. Darth Aloha

    TheSwede locked out

    Oh yeah. That wasn’t working too. We disabled it until we can figure out how we broke it. -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Darth Aloha

    TheSwede locked out

    Hey Folks. We’re aware of the problem where people can’t click on a forum from the main page. I’ll be working on it later this afternoon/eve EDT. Thanks for your patience. -Eric Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    This is our way of telling you you're fired. It's like coming to work one day to find your key card doesn't work. -Eric
  17. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    Yeah. That's fascinating. I'll poke around later today. -Eric
  18. Darth Aloha

    FISD Forum Downtime - Wednesday August 15 0100 EDT

    Ok. That was painful. The forum now resides on a new and better web server. I suspect you'll some performance improvement right away. If you experience something weird, diffusely bad, or an error. Please post here in this thread. Be sure to copy and paste or screen capture any error messages with the description of the problem. Tapatalk isn't working yet but we'll get to that in the next day. Thank you all for your patience. -Eric and Mathias
  19. Darth Aloha

    Trouble in Tapatalk

    Testing images. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Darth Aloha

    Trouble in Tapatalk

    Tapatalk should be working again. -Eric
  21. Darth Aloha

    Captain Phasma CRL Discussion

    So... Ingrid sent me some words. I'm posting them here to start the discussion that will eventually lead us to showing the LMO a draft. There is no deadline for this but I'm hoping to not take too long. The biggest question that we should start talking about is... How shiny should she be? Ingrid asserts (and I agree with her) that Phasma is mirror shiny. That puts rattle can automotive chrome out of the running as it does not reflect enough to be mirror-like. The environment should be seen in the armor. I doubt there will be a L2 for this costume any time soon so the idea of letting L1 be the not shiny grey and L2 be super shiny won't work any time soon. L2 to me should be done once the bluray comes out and we can nerd out over the details during her all too brief amount of screen time. There may be too many words (especially the very specific cape) and detail for an actual CRL below. I am more of a "make it look like the picture" (as our LMO likes to say) guy using fewer words and better photos. What we have here is her writing what she sees. How much of it goes into the CRL is why this thread exists. Ingrid has a bunch of reference photos that I will post (as her) and let her annotate when she can. Helmet Helmet is reflective chrome or silver in color. The helmet bottom flares outward rather than curving underneath like the FO TK helmet. The top of the helmet contains a raised Mohawk ridge approximately 3-4” wide that runs from brow to the base of the back. On either side of this Mohawk are three grooves delineating three stripes approximately ½ - 5/8”. The outermost strip angles back over the ear bumps. There is a roughly ¼-3/8” indent around the borders of the bottom ridge, face, and nose plate. Kenses are black or smoke bubble lenses. The gap between the nose piece and main part of the helmet is flat black with a hexagonal mesh texture. No aerator is present. Cape The cape is black and crosses the chest diagonally from the right shoulder to the left, wrapping around the back and connecting again to the right shoulder. A 1.5-2 inch-wide strap, approximately 12-15 inches long, drapes over the right shoulder from the front over the shoulder to the back. [Clasp/connector is unknown at this time; so far, nothing is visible. Perhaps wording should indicate that there is no visible clasp or buckle.] The cape gathers somewhat between the left shoulder and the neck. All seams except the front red seam are two parallel straight-stitches, 3/8” apart, including pockets, hem, and the borders of the straps. The front seam across the chest is two parallel straight stitches, 1” apart. A 1-inch (2.5cm) red stripe is painted along the entire front seam on the top/visible side only, within the parallel stitches. The left side of the cape drapes across the left shoulder, yoke, and chest, down to the left elbow. It extends to the ground with approximately 3” of drag. The cape is in 3 panels: a trapezoidal back panel with seams on either side of the back plate, connecting the longer left and folded right panels. [Note: a 4th panel joining two pieces of the right panel into one may be present. The purpose of this would be to increase the number of folds on the right side.] The left panel contains two 1-1.5” fabric straps, approximately12-18 inches long, from the inner seam to the outside; one is located at hand-level when the arm is extended, and the second is 4” below it. The left panel contains four pockets which are not identical in size; the top pocket overlaps the seam to the back panel; below it are two middle pockets of approximately the same size, but mis-aligned by about ½ inch and spaced about 1 inch apart; the bottom of these two pockets are at elbow level; the fourth pocket is slightly narrower than the other three and is somewhat aligned between and below the two middle pockets. A 1-1.5” strap, approximately 10-12” long, extends from the lower portion of the fourth/lower pocket toward the front of the cape. The hem of the cape tapers upward from the bottom left (ground) at an approximate 30-degree angle, to the right calf just below the back of the knee. The right side of the cape is gathered in 4-5 folds that hang just over or behind the right shoulder, exposing the shoulder bell and bicep but completely covering the back plate. The cape material is a soft cotton canvas with diagonal weave pattern appearing after treatment. The outside of the cape is coated with a rubberized coating (similar to a rubberized picnic blanket), including the pockets and left straps. Neck Seal Chest Plate [More than any other part of this costume, the chest plate should be as mirror-reflective as possible in the front. Some battle damage is acceptable, but it should reflect the scene around it.] Back/Yoke Thermal Detonator Shoulder Gaskets Shoulder Bells Biceps Elbow Gaskets Forearms Gloves/Handplates Gloves are solid black leather or leather-like material. Extend underneath the forearm. Main handplates are rigid square boxes and the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. The black oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand. A second handplate between the forearm and main handplate is approximately half the size, somewhat trapezoidal in shape, and contoured to match the contours of the main handplate. Both handplate pieces are reflective chrome or silver in color. Finger Armor C3PO-style finger armor is rigid and segmented in two pieces per finger, worn over the glove. The upper finger has two teardrop-shaped humps on the top, and a wedge opening (or the appearance of a wedge opening) in the joint on the bottom. The finger tips has one teardrop-shaped hump on the top, no segments, and a circular, fully enclosed end cap. The lengths and widths of the finger pieces are proportionate to the wearer’s fingers. The finger pieces are reflective chrome or silver in color. Abdomen Posterior Armor Codpiece The cod is a triangular, rigid, contoured piece, rounded at the bottom, with two rectangular indents on either side near the top. Belt (DA note: obviously the actual FO TK wording with modification needs to go here but I'm rushing to get this up... and the wine is working on me) • The belt matches the FO TK belt except where white, the parts are reflective chrome or silver in color. • Unlike the FO TK belts, the front fabric pouch is covered by an additional hard, chrome or silver box cover that is approximately half the size of the rear fabric pouch cover. Undersuit Thighs Knee Gaskets Knee Plates Knee plates are worn upside down in relation to FO TK armor. Shin Armor Lower Shins Lower shin armor is contoured upward in the center, with a square-beveled ridge visible along the top, right, and left sides. The bottom of the armor is rounded over the top of the boot, extending to points on either side. The armor is reflective chrome or silver in color. This armor is worn over the lower half of the main shin armor. Lower Calves Lower calf armor is rigid, curved at the bottom over the heel plate, and extending to points to match the lower shin armor on both sides. The armor is reflective chrome or silver in color. The calf and lower shin armor are connected on the inside by a mylar or sliverized tape. Foot Armor A shallow, rigid toe piece covers the toe and top of the boot. It is contoured to the shape of the boot, with a curved end at the ankle and extending downward into points. An oval-shaped instep piece is worn over the foot and lower calf armor. A curved, rounded heel piece covers the heel of the boot. These pieces are all reflective chrome or silver in color. Boots Plain suede, leather, or leather-like black or dark gray boots are acceptable. The toe is round with a slight point. The heel and sole are plain black and proportionate to non-feminized boots. [in other words, high-heeled women’s-style boots are not acceptable.] Blaster The blaster matches the FO TK blaster with these exceptions. The white is covered by a slightly gold-tinted chrome color. [Not 3PO gold] The blaster contains a butt-stock. The trigger guard is removed. Ingrid's notes: The thermal detonator, back plate, and posterior armor will not be visible under the cape if worn correctly, and will not likely be visible for submission photos to the GML. Chrome spray paint should not be allowed. It is too dull and does not have the correct mirror-reflective properties of silvering and metalizing systems. If there is a away to ensure the chrome/silver appearance has “reflective” properties and not just “shiny” that would be great. Boots: Her original boots are suede jodhpur style boots but because most members will be adding internal lifts to achieve height, alternate boots should be acceptable for ankle support, and to allow for longer reach in the leg and foot armor. Some room for platform soles should also be provided. Let the nitpicking begin! -Eric
  22. Helmet Lenses are gray in color and may be flat or bubble in shape A single silver aerator/mic tip cylinder is on lower right side of the chin. The frown is solid black and covered in black hexagonal mesh that extends to the tears Each tear (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) is solid black Seven cut out tube stripe slots are on either side of the helmet Two clip greeblies are present over the traps on the side Two clip greebles are present on the top of the helmet Along the base of the helmet ablack stripe runs from the side of the helmet and across the back to the other side. A brow of solid black material spans from the traps over the lenses Directly below the traps toward the base of the helmet is a small trapezoidal stripe. Neckseal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Chest plate Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate Center of the chest plate may have a cutout or the cutout area may be replicated with a black marking. A greeblie shall be present on either side of the chest Six black ovals are on the wearer's right side Back/yoke Back plate contains a "O II" design where the O is black The back/yoke is one seamless piece The yoke portion extends over the wearer's shoulders and curves under Thermal detonator The thermal detonator mounting plate sits under the back plate and rests above the belt. Control panel is black Righthand recessed end cape is black Lefthand end cap sits proud of the detonator assembly and has a black stripe The thermal detonator must not have visible seams Shoulder gaskets Gaskets shall be rubber or a rubber-like material with ridges The shoulder gaskets must cover all exposed areas under the shoulder bell, between the bicep and chest, and between bicep and back. Shoulder bells One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical. They may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Shoulders have small ridge at the top under the bell itself. Biceps Biceps have only one seam on the side that faces forward. The rest of the bicep must be seamless. A clip greeblie is present low and across the seam Two black ovals are present on the outside facing side of the bicep Elbow gaskets Gaskets shall be rubber or a rubber-like material with ridges The elbow gaskets must cover all exposed areas between the bicep and forearm Forearms Forearms shall have have ridged rail, similar to a picatinny, embedded on the inside of the forearm, roughly covered 1/3rd by a box shape. Forearms shall have a box on the bottom the wrist end. Each box shall have a single black square in the lower inside corner. Each forearm shall have two 'clasp greeblies' on the outside facing surface, near the wrist. Gloves/handplates Handplates are rigid square boxes and the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. Gloves are black with white palm, thumb and forefinger. Gloves extend underneath the forearm. Ab section Abdomen section must wrap around the wearer's body without a visible seam. The abdomen has 7 boxes attached that matches the order and placement shown and sit flush against the armor. Box connection shall not be seamless and the connecting edge must follow the curves present in the armor. Codpiece The codpeice sits below the abdomen and under the belt. Butt plate The butt plate sits below the abdomen and under the belt. Belt The belt is ribbed and made from a rubber or a rubber like material. Five white rectangular boxes sit on the belt. Three are mounted vertically and two are horizontal. A small black cloth pouch is worn on the left side. Thighs Knee gaskets Knee plates Shins Spats Boots Blaster -Eric
  23. Please don't send the funds to me directly. Paul will be along shortly to give you guys another paypal address. Thanks, -Eric
  24. Darth Aloha

    Official Rebels TK CRL Discussion thread

    Here's the new URL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rebels It will show up in the FISD list as soon as the main page sync with the back end. -Eric
  25. Darth Aloha

    Official Rebels TK CRL Discussion thread

    Nerds, Toddo and I took a quick look tonight and we think this looks good to go. Because LMOs can't just green light a CRL without changing something, I made two edits. For the neckseal entry it wasn't clear that the balaclava was allowed in lieu of a neckseal. I changed it to: A black balaclava may be worn to conceal the wearer's neck instead of a neackseal. The other thing I did was made the blaster wording consistent with ESB, ANH and ROTJ E-11s. Which says this for L1: Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. I'll add it to the member database shortly and drop a note to Eric M's GML that he can be approved without delay. Nicely done TKs. -Eric
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