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Owen91

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Everything posted by Owen91

  1. I've replaced the original screws with flathead screws, I painted the heads white. These look much better and the white paint helps them to not stick out as badly. Next I will order the appropriate decals from Trooperbay, should take place here in a week or so when I get the money.
  2. Alright! I've been out to a few troops, and while I've really had a good time doing these events I still have a desire to go EIB. In a week or two I'm going to order a set of ESB decals from Trooperbay, as well as a few proper flathead screws to replace the current screws in the ears. Looking forward to earning that title!
  3. If you need tips/guidance with building your armour, specifically ESB or T/MC armour, let me know!

  4. T/MC is what I have and I love it. I highly recommend it! I'm 6 feet 175 pounds and the armour fit me without any special modification or shimming. You might need to do some shimming depending on how big around your limbs and torso are. I suggest you take a look around the forums here. If this is your first time building a TK you've got LOTS of research to do!
  5. Some quality time with a boxcutter and sandpaper will wear it down nicely! Check out my T/MC bucket.
  6. Hell's Bells! You're right, I'd never once noticed a physical difference between the decals of ANH vs. ESB. I thought the only difference was hand-painted versus ideal! And yeah, the screws are a flathead/philips combo, an Improv I made on the spot when I found the provided screws were not long enough to make it through the helmet. White paint will make the difference less noticeable. As for the decals, I'm going to have to fix those when the money comes up to do so. Man! I'm so close, too.
  7. Please let me know if there is anything else I need to present or if there's anything I should work on! Thank you!
  8. Blaster: No hengstler or power tubes on magazine, folding stock, 6 T grips. D-ring and correct style scope on 3/4" wide mounting rail.
  9. Grenade clips 1" wide, courtesy of Tray.. ESB Danter handguards, Nomex flight gloves...
  10. Shoulders/torso: Shoulder bridges glued in front... 3 Blue buttons, 6 Gray, side gaps about 1/2" wide or less, separate kidney/butt plate, no shoulder straps visible, biceps/forearms fully closed, canvas belt, proper ESB holster ...
  11. Armor= T/MC Helmet= T/MC Blaster= Doopy Doo Full Resin Kit Height = 6' 1" Weight = 175 Boots = TK Boots Canvas belt = Trooperbay Hand Plates = John Danter's ESB handplates Electronics= Smalltalk Amp with homemade headset from Ebay Neck Seal = Nikkimat Neckseal on Ebay Holster = Neo_Kerberos (Patrice) on FISD Helmet: 4 Bump Ears, painted on ear stripes. cheeks, tube stripes, and traps are decals. Green lens from Trooperbay Resin-cast Hovi Mix from Tray:
  12. I've knocked out the majority of the Doopy Full resin E-11 kit today, but I've hit a speed bump. I am absolutely clueless about what to do about the Scope rail. I'm interested in making one. I tried an ABS strip and that didn't work. What did you use? I'm building mine for ESB, so I think the main difference regarding the rail is the lack of the Hengstler mount. Thanks!
  13. Hi everyone! Might anybody know something about the durability of the Doopy Doo E-11 blaster? I've seen a few posts by members that hinted at their fragility and, having one on the way, it has me concerned. Is it sturdy enough to survive the unexpected? (grabbing hands, bumping into things, maybe even a drop/ etc.)
  14. I can't remember how many of my sets were dropped, thrown, crushed, and/or modified beyond recogntion by rampaging siblings. The only set I've kept intact for display is my Lambda shuttle.
  15. Warped? I never had a problem like that with the forearms, granted very little of it was a perfect fit but hey, that's what clamps are for!
  16. Haha, nice! Is that the wheel of a Chrome crusher/loader dozer I see on the scope? I used to build all sorts of stuff with my legos.
  17. I've since created a pretty neat face rig that brings it close enough to my face to work properly but not too close to bump my lips or hinder jaw movement. Its pretty barebones at the moment but I think I could end up making it look pretty cool.
  18. You know Tray I was looking at these pictures yesterday and noticed the same thing. I've also had trouble with the boot popping out from under the left greave when climbing stairs or moving my legs with anything beyond a simple walk. It's possible I'm just fastening it on too tightly but there may be a fit issue as well. I'll have to revisit these today.
  19. I'm approved! Yes!

  20. Got my acceptance email today! I now stand ready to serve as TK-89626, (took my number after my car, an '89 Mazda 626) All I have left now is to get my blaster and ultimately apply for EIB. I know I didn't really post much of a build thread, so instead I shall create a nice reference/tip thread. 99.99% of what I did I followed from other great threads such as: zsavk's ANH T/MC build: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14081-tmc-build-zsavk-tmc/page__hl__tmc naatsirhc's ESB ATA build: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8141-naatsirhcs-ata-buildata/page__hl__strap%20system and Tray's awesome instructional disc which gives a detailed blow-by-blow from the calves up. I learned about what tools I'd need from these threads: http://www.tonybarnett.plus.com/snaps.html http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11760-basic-tools-needed-for-armour-building/ Some experiences I gained throughout the build: 1. The Score-snap method works, but it is extremely uncomfortable, time consuming and can be tricky. I bought a pair of aviation snips from Walmart; they made my build SO. MUCH. EASIER. I highly recommend aviation snips in addition to a boxcutter and lexan scissors. Use Aviation snips for straight lines, broad curves, and coarse cuts. Use the Lexan scissors for curved edges and tight spots. Use the boxcutter for fine cuts, rough edges, sharp corners, and trimming to perfection. 2. The kit can be built without using pop rivets! I went to Ace Hardware and bought all the split rivets I'd need and then some for less than 3$. No innaccurate pop rivets, no rivet tool. 3. Plumber's Goop works great, likely the same thing as E-6000. will not heat up when applied to Dritz HD snaps (from Walmart/Hobby Lobby) I'm not sure about Tandy snaps, though. 4. Nylon/Polypropylene snap plates are more flexible and seal to the contours of the armour better than plastic snap plates do. 5. Don't cheap out on snaps. Get about 50! 6. The setting tools that came with the snaps worked just fine for me, I found no need for Vario-pliars. 7. You can never have enough clamps, and the bigger they are the better. 8. Having a helper makes it so much easier. I would've had a hard time with some parts if it weren't my brother helping me out. 9. The kit can be built without a dremel, you just have to be careful and patient. I'd still recommend one. 10. It's good to have reference pics to work with as you go. Think of it as a big, wearable Lego set. I hope these tips/references will help someone else down the road. The FISD has helped me immensely and I hope to return the favour!
  21. TK-89626 Reporting for duty! Requesting 501st access! http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=15078
  22. My pics are approved and my application is sent, cannot wait to officially be a part of this!!!

  23. Neat! Interesting what one can do with a simple toy using some paint and imagination!
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