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Jes Gistang - research thread


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Btw, I led my wife try my TK helmet with this armor...it looks rediculous. Extreme bubblehead ;)

 

Looked something like this

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Here are a couple changes for the CRL that was posted.

 

Neck Seal

For 501st approval:

Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. 

 

Shoulder Straps

For 501st approval:

These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

No visible rivets are allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable): 

These shall free float in back.

These shall be glued in front.

The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via velcro that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

 

Shoulder Bells

For 501st approval:

One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

 

Biceps

For 501st approval:

Biceps are fully closed. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

Biceps must be constructed using the butt joint method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

 

Forearms

For 501st approval:

Forearms are fully closed. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

Minimum return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

 

Hand Plates

For 501st approval:

Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

 

Gloves

For 501st approval:

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):!

 

Chest

For 501st approval:

Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

Chest and back shall be connected with a white or black fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

 

Back

For 501st approval:

Back plate must contain geometric pattern very similar to “Clone Trooper†back details.

Back plate shall overlap the kidney armor.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

 

Under Suit

For 501st approval:

Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

 

Abdomen Armor

For 501st approval:

The abdomen armor has an indented button area with 10 indentations that are vertical and parallel to each other on both sides of the center square detailing.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor.

A single visible seam line is present.

Two rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor.

Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.

Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge.

The heads are rounded or domed.

Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head.

Two male snap on the top right corner and bottom right corner of the ab plate is present.

A single split rivet or brad is present on the lower tab of the abdomen armor.

Rivet does not need to be functional.

Abdomen armor buttons are integrated and indented directly on the armor.

No separate buttons are allowed.

 

Kidney Armor

For 501st approval:

A separate kidney plate is present, split from the posterior armor. 

Kidney armor shall contain the thermal detonator

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable):

 

Posterior Armor

For 501st approval:

A separate butt plate is required, split from the kidney plate. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

 

Belt

For 501st approval:

Belt shall be made of plastic 

For level two certification (if applicable):

There shall be eleven (6 front, 5 back) symmetrical plastic boxes attached vertically to the belt.

There shall be two larger ammo boxes attached to the sides of the belt at the lateral most portion of the thorax.

For level three certification (if applicable): 

There are no drop boxes

 

Thermal Detonator

For 501st approval:

Shall be attached to the kidney armor (not belt) 1 inch above the top of the belt and include grey tube with white end caps and control panel detailing along the center.

The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.

The thermal detonator is attached without visible attachments.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

 

 

Thigh Armor

For 501st approval:

Thigh armor shall be closed in the back with strain vertical seams.

The knees shall be connected with 1 inch white elastic and secured without visible rivets or snaps.

For level two certification (if applicable):

Thighs are constructed using the butt joint method.

Overlap construction is not allowed.

 

Knee Armor

For 501st approval:

Must be hexagonal in shape with built in straps connecting to the thigh with no visible rivets using elastic or canvas strap.

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

 

Lower Leg Armor

For 501st approval:

Greaves close in the back across the seam that lines up with the thigh seam via velcro or snaps

For level two certification (if applicable):

Overlap construction is not allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable): 

 

Boots

For 501st approval:

Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.

Thick sole with lifted heel.

No buckles or laces.

Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.

Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. 

For level two certification (if applicable):

For level three certification (if applicable): 

There shall be no seam on the front of the boot.

There shall be a raised strip down the front of the boot.

There shall be a raised strip surrounding the heel of the boot.

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 Hello.... question on the cover strips for forearms and biceps - we are NOT doing an outside cover strip, correct?

So, there are no outside cover strips on arms or legs, right?  Thanks.... :)

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I made the biceps using flat parts. Should the forearms only use the flat parts, too?

 

I have not yet cut off the raised areas. Is it OK if some of those raised parts stay - as long as they have a nice straight line where they connec?

We are only using inside cover strips, yah?  Danke!

 

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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No cover strips like a regular TK. All strips get glued on the inside to help support each half for a smooth look on the outside.

 

The outside of the forearms do overlap. They mirror each other.

 

This is the same idea for the back of the lower legs. The outside half overlaps the inside half. This helps hid the cut seams.

 

2014-08-07161415copy_zpsb619e284.jpg.2664d15a1f99e0e4706ed30b254f7565.jpg

 

 

Edited by gmrhodes13
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HOWDY!

I was pondering how to connect the front belt to the back belt.... the BIG belt box will cover where they meet, yes?

 

:D  :P  :smiley-sw013: 

 

I'm working on my belt AT WORK.. cause my boss left!

 

I used #6 - 32 x 3/4 in screws / nuts from home depot.  For future builders.. was that a good idea?

What did you guys / gals use?

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Use wall plate screws or 6 - 32 x 1/2 screws with 6-32 hex nuts. Drill the holes with a 1/8 drill bit for a tight fit.

 

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Kevin W.

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Still waiting for official word for 501st approval.

I submitted Stacey's "Jes Gistang" photos on 7/28/2014.

 

Keep you posted.

Edited by TK6682
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On 7/31/2014 at 10:37 AM, kwdesigns said:

Here is a link to the pictures I took during the assembly. I did not get pics of every step because we assembled all 4 of these kits in 5 days.

I will take better detail pics later. But this should help clear up some of the question on how we assembled the Fem Trooper Armor.

 

http://s149.photobucket.com/user/kwdesigns2/library/Jes%20Gistang%20Fem%20Trooper%20Assembly?sort=3&page=1

Hey Kev.

 

You sugest that people make one side with snaps, and the other with rivets, but since theese are virtually unnoticable under the belt and chest/back armor, would it be a problem to use rivets on both sides??

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Hey Kev.

 

You sugest that people make one side with snaps, and the other with rivets, but since theese are virtually unnoticable under the belt and chest/back armor, would it be a problem to use rivets on both sides??

 

Yes, getting in and out would be an issue.

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Hahahahaha XD
I meant snaps! :D

Would it be okay to use snaps on both sides? ;)


And 3 weeks without even a "we are looking into it"... Maybe its time to poke them continuously until you get word back.

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