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Normally we try to add any extra material on the rear as this is not seen as much by the public, but some add additional sizing to the front and rear, at the end of the day it would be best speaking with your GML as they will be reviewing the armor and may not allow larger cover strips, best to check . A thread on the subject of larger cover strips

Hey Jeff - I'm a fan of lexan shears for rough cutting (but it helps to have a couple different types/shapes of scissor because you will absolutely get blisters or hand cramps), then I smooth out my cuts with a belt sander and one of these big flappy wheels on a Dremel/rotary tool, and finish with emory boards for a smooth, pinch/bite-free, slightly-rounded edge. Links for inspiration, but shop around. Luckily on Anovos kits, the cut lines on the inside edge of the armor are easy and like 90% accurate if you're a standard sized trooper, so I usually mark them with a pencil, rough cut, then sneak up on my line with sanding. I only use a utility knife (AND A CUT GLOVE) and a metal ruler (with some magnets) to cut my coverstrips in straight lines really, which isn't needed for this kit (unless you make inner cover strips, which you should!). I know some people score-n-snap, but I haven't found many places on the armor that it's super practical/safe for me to do. Oh and wear a respirator. Hope that helps!

-- EDIT 08/31/2022-- Future Jason here, I just wanted to provide this colorful edit to help explain how I'm going to handle additions to this original post. Initially, I was striking out verbiage as it was written, then adding new text, but it was getting messy. I will continue using strike through text whenever I remove something from the existing CRL, but will follow that up with red text indicating the agreed upon change. Of note, I will try not to make any of these changes unless it's captured in this conversation, but I am receiving input from detachment leadership in addition to what's captured here. If anything ever appears in the CRL text below that a person does not recall discussing, please let us know so the discussion can continue. What I absolutely refuse to do is create ambiguous text, or what I refer to as a "moving target CRL." Any edits to my original post will be written in yellow so you can follow the changes easier; I will also date any revision/ edit. So again, CRL changes/ additions in red instructions/ original post edits in yellow. Thanks, TK-51923 Fellow TKs. After several discussions regarding the inclusion of Remnant Stormtroopers, as seen in The Mandalorian seasons 1 and 2 into the Databank, we have decided to move forward with the creation of a CRL. The goal in developing this thread is to create a CRL specific to the heavily weathered Remnants serving Werner Herzog's "The Client" as well as those seen in Season 2 episode 7 The Believer, working in the rhydonium refinery on the planet Morak. For previous discussion on this topic, please see the following thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48305-new-anthology-tk-crl/ Additionally, for reference, please see the following picture: Additionally, since we have several new references to draw from since the creation of the original Rogue One TK CRL and it's subsequent revision in 2020, this thread will also serve to address revisions to the current ROTK CRL and the potential creation of a separate CRL for the New Generation/ Anthology TK. Discussions are ongoing regarding how to handle this generation of TK armor that has become synonymous with the Anthology films and various Disney+ series. This includes the existing ROTK, which could be renamed, receive additional variations, remain unchanged, or none of the above. However, one item that has been emphasized to me from detachment staff is that we have to clearly show that this is a unique set of armor without stating "it's dirty." Additionally, we have found several instances in which items were either missing, broken, or taped together by the costume department for the respective productions; these discrepancies will not be included in any new CRL or revisions to existing CRLs. The goal of this thread is to identify the unique attributes of the costume that are uniform throughout all of it's appearances in Anthology films and Disney+ productions, not to capture broken or missing items. Things that will not be considered: broken thigh armor, drop boxes tucked into the thighs or missing altogether, missing TDs, and "$#1++y wardrobe dressing or stunt men with gaffer tape." I'm not going to say who's quote that was. With that said, we obviously have an ANH OT bucket resting atop Rogue One style armor. These are on prominent display, but there's other unique characteristics as well. This is our opportunity to post them up and start hashing out the details. Please take a look at the aforementioned thread, but I also intend on posting several of the pictures here. To get started, I will post the verbiage from our current ROTK CRL, and include the wording from the ANH Stunt helmet. I will continue updating everything as we go along and highlight any changes in red. Additionally, even though this isn't a New Generation/ Anthology CRL, we need to capture anything in the New Generation gear that hasn't been covered previously. If there's new things that have been discovered, please post them. Let's get started: Helmet Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. The vocoder must be integrated into the helmet, and not a separate piece. Neck Seal Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck Under Suit Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Upper Arm (Bicep) Armor 8/31/2022 Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. The biceps are suspended from the shoulder armor via shock cord (bungee/ framilon cordage) via "J hooks" at the top of the biceps per the screen references. 8/31/2022 A separate piece of white 1" webbing or elastic, extends from the shoulder armor, through a slot in the bicep per the screen references. 8/31/2022 Forearm Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The front strip is bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Hand Plates Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gloves Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black in color, made of either rubber, Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall not be made of rubber. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. Chest Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Back Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Abdomen Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centred on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top 1/3 of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armour. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centred above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately 1/8” 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately 1/8” 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Move to "kidney armor" section. Cod Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate 8/31/2022 Removed from Level Two certification. Having this as a level 2 requirement instead of basic may lead people to use OT amor in constructing their kits or create abdominal/ cod pieces that are not accurate to any available references for this costume. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular kidney/ trauma plate. 8/31/2022 The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor and sits above the rear hard belt. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The kidney/ trauma plate is large enough to cover the entire gap present in the rear of the abdominal armor and extends up underneath the back armor. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The kidney armor cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Posterior Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The back front belt overlaps the front rear belt on the sides. 8/31/2022 There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1” 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have a trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The trapezoid detail is a triangular prism that has no rounded edges. 8/31/2022 The front belt protrudes past above all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately 1/8”-1/4” 3-6mm. The front belt protrudes approximately 1/2" below the front 4 ammo boxes in a trapezoidal shape that extends from the center of both medium sized ammo boxes where it tapers to 1/8"-1/4" (3-6mm) below the ammo boxes across the remaining span of the belt per the official references. 8/31/2022 All ammunition boxes, including the drop boxes, have slightly bevelled chamfered edges on the face of each box. 8/31/2022 Thermal Detonator Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3” 76mm in diameter and 8” 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼” 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately 1/8” 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is bevelled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. The thermal detonator is made separate from the mount and secured to it. 8/31/2022 I added this due to the number of instances in which we've seen the TD disconnected from it's mount or missing on screen. Similar to the belt boxes, the TD should be separate, but fixed to the mount appropriately as per the screen references. Thigh Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. 8/31/2022 Thigh armor has been seen several times separated (flexible) in the rear, but never worn in the same manner as the arms (bungee cords/ framilon cordage). Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. Rear cover strips will close outside over inside, i.e. left over right for the left thigh and Right over Left for the right thigh. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled chamfered at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1” 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle tri-glide buckle that is covered by black webbing fabric or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. 8/31/2022 Lower Leg Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. "Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. SE-14r Light Repeating Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 SE-14r Light Repeating Blaster. The barrel detailing is evident with the cocking lever and slider in place. The ejection port is also evident. The scope mount looks similar to the magazine but smaller in size. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): E-22 Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. It has a extended stock attached at the rear and a extended front housing with second lower barrel. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on right side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders Scope is a M38 1943 version Scope rail is fitted onto rail blocks, one inside the rear sight and the other at the front end of the rail. There are 3 swivel studs fitted, one on the rear stock and one each side of the front barrel housing. Sling is 25mm webbing strap that is adjustable using a silver 25mm 3 fixed bar webbing buckle (optional). Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel or replica (optional). Red lights fitted on both sides of the rear housing, Hengstler fitted with a red light for the 3 forward tubes and 2 small red lights fitted into the rear barrel housing under the torch, the lights are permanent and are non flashing or pulsed (optional hero version only). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring) Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel. Pauldron Rogue One Pauldrons denote rank or mission specialization. The Rogue One Pauldron is specific to Rogue One and differs from the original trilogy in color and stitching. Original trilogy Pauldrons are not an authorized accessory for Rogue One armor. An Orange, white, or black ornament made of leather plastic or leather-like material, worn over the right shoulder. The Orange is specific to Rogue One and a different shade from the original trilogy. A red pauldron as seen in The Mandalorian Chapter 14, may be worn as part of the New Generation TK costume, but not as a Rogue One stormtrooper. 8/31/2022 The colored panel is divided into three sections by color matched stitching to conform to the wearers shoulder and has black piping around the outside edge. The remainder of the Pauldron is black and divided by black stitching into 10 segments. The neck closure is black and has two black snaps visible. There is a black elastic strap that runs from back to front and is worn under the bicep to hold the Pauldron in place. The strap is conned to the Pauldron on top by two black snaps inlayed in black “D” shaped leather or leather-like ends. The underside of the Pauldron is white regardless of top color and is divided with white stitching into 13 segments. The entire outside edge is finished with black piping and the underside of the neck closure is black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

Hi, Here are proposal for other armor components, trying to list details that are referenced in the reference picture document available. Chest armor The chest armor is white and is comprised of 4 distinct sections: - The lower section - The upper section - The left and right winglets The lower section extends down to overlap the abdomen armor and is attached to the upper section. It also extends to the rear under the arm pit, joining to the back section with a minimal vertical seam on each side There is a recessed medium grey section in the center of the lower section matching the medium grey color of the rest of the armor. A white raised rectangular shape with bevels is present in the middle of the grey recess A dark red oblong shape is present on the left side of the lower section A raised rectangular shape containing the ranking of the commando is present on the left side of the lower section and has the following characteristics: - A raised white contour - A medium grey ranking rectangle that matches the medium grey color of the armor, inside the white raised contour - On the grey ranking rectangle, is present from top to bottom: - A white rectangle - 4 squares evenly spaced horizontally on a single row with these colors from left to right: black, dark red, light grey, dark grey - 2 rectangles each having two circular shapes on them. The left rectangle has 2 large white circular shapes, the right rectangle has two smaller black circular shapes under the ranking box is a red rectangle The upper section is a single piece with no visible seam and extend from the lower section to the back section There is V-shape in the front center of the upper section, on which is attached a raised v-shape white box On each side of the upper section are attached two raised shapes that gives the appearance of jetpack straps Over the wearer’s right jetpack strap is a rounded shape box. There is a medium grey grid at the front of the box that closely match the color of the rest of the medium grey of the armor. The left and right winglets are white and symmetrical. They are attached on each side of the upper section Level 2 The 4 sections (lower section, upper section and 2 winglets) and shoulder box are visibly separate parts The ranking box components have thickness and are visibly separate parts The red light is functional under the ranking box The raised box over the right shoulder is visibly a separate part and has two semi-circular recessed line on the outer side and a recessed on the inner side. The raised box grid has exactly 5 vertical rectangular grey shapes and is visibly a separate part Back armor The back is white and attaches to the upper portion of the chest armor with minimal joint. It also attaches to the lower section of the chest armor under the arm pit forming a minimal vertical joint The back armor also attaches the jetpack to the armor with a removable mechanism The back plate extends down approximately to the height of the jetpack reactors tips Level 2 The jetpack has 3 attachment points that are visibly separate parts and are metallic finish. The two upper attachment points are circular T-shaped and anchored to the back plate with a circular plate The lower attachment point to the jetpack is cylindrical with a taper at the tip and is anchored to the back plate with a rectangular plate Upper arm piece left The upper arm piece left is white and fixed to the suit without any visible means of attachment The upper arm piece left is rectangular and has the following features from top to bottom - A large recessed rectangular shape with dark red color - A raised white square at the lower right of the inside of the red colored rectangle - A raised medium grey box matching the same color as the rest of the armor medium grey - A recessed line Level 2 The box has a rectangular recess at the back Upper arm piece right The upper arm piece right is white and fixed to the suit without any visible means of attachment The upper arm piece right is rectangular and has the following features from top to bottom - A large recessed rectangular shape with dark red color - A raised white square at the upper left of the inside of the red colored rectangle - A raised medium grey box matching the same color as the rest of the armor medium grey - A recessed line Level 2 The box has a rectangular recess at the back running horizontally Gloves Gloves are made of plain soft black leather or similar material and worn tucked into the gauntlets. Logos, designs and any other non-canon details are not visible when worn. No visible stiches are present on the top of the gloves Level 2 Gloves are made of leather Glove armor Glove armor is white and has three facets. Left and right glove armor are symmetrical A thick border is present all around the glove armor with a recessed rectangle in the middle section The glove armor is attached to the glove back Abdomen armor The abdomen armor is grey and span from the belt to the inside of the chest armor, hiding the wearers suit There is a seam on the right side of the wearer that closes the two parts without a visible gap. A seam can also be present on the left side but without any visible gap. There is the appearance of 4 straps seamlessly attached to the armor There is one raised shape at the back of the abdomen armor in between the 2 rear straps There are multiple raised boxes and shapes present on the front side of the armor Level2 The abdomen armor is made of flexible material Only one seam is present on the right side of the wearer’s side The 4 straps are all identical in width and geometry There is the appearance of a clip on the straps approximately at the middle of the abdomen armor Belt Belt strap is made of white coton like material and has the appearance of being made with thick material stitched with 5 horizontal lines creating 4 wider section in the middle and two narrow ones at bottom and top The belt is attached to the abdomen armor with no visible mean of attachment and conceal the edge of the lower abdomen armor The buckle of the belt is visibly two separate parts white in color. The male portion of the buckle has a visible link to the female buckle that is trapezoidal with metal color There are boxes on each side of the buckle attached to the belt strap. All boxes are white and are attached as on reference pictures order There are 7 identical rectangular boxes with a visible recess on the front vertical edges and a small chamfer on the top 4 of the 7 boxes are attached to the wearer’s right and 3 on wearer’s left starting from the buckle and are evenly spaced There is a larger pouch on wearer’s left following the first 3 boxes. The pouch has the appearance of having an overlapping rounded cover. The top cover has two horizontal chamfer on each side and the lower edges are chamfered vertically. There are two cylindrical boxes aligned with the abdominal rear straps on each side of the wearer’s back. The cylindrical boxes have an angled top and a fin protruding on the lower portion Level 2 The push release button of the female buckle is visibly a separate component There is a rectangular recessed line on the metal portion of the male buckle The metal portion of the male buckle is followed by a black section entering the female buckle Cod plate The cod plate is white and is made of a triangular shape that curves inward in the lower extremity The main triangular section is completed by two small vertical sections curving inward on each side The cod plate has not visible attachment method and disappear under the belt and abdominal armor. There is no attachment of the lower portion of the cod to the suit Level 2 There is a visible trapezoidal raised section on the top of main triangular section Thigh plates The thigh plates are white with a dark red insert and wrap around the wearer’s thigh with no visible mean of attachmentThe left and right thigh plates are symmetrical. They have a top rectangular section that is aligned with wearer’s side. The thigh plates are curved to fit the leg shape and have rounded corners There is recessed shape that creates a contour along the periphery and leaves a rectangular shape in the center The red insert is trapezoidal Level 2 The main section is asymmetric and is larger at the rear of the wearer’s thigh than at the front. the front top section is rectangular and the rear top section is at a downward angle Knee plates The knee plates are white and fitted over the wearer’s knee with no visible mean of attachment The left and right knee plates are symmetrical and comprise 4 sections (top, inner, outer, lower) There is a recessed trapezoidal shape in the lower section There is a trapezoidal winglet attached on the outer section Greaves The greaves are white and have the spat seamlessly attached to it. The left and right greaves are symmetrical. There is a flat face at the front and at the rear the rear running from the spat all the way up to the top of the greaves If seams are present, they must be minimal and be located on the edge of front and rear flat portions A raised lip is present around the top of the greave A rectangular box is seamlessly attached to the outer top side of the greave. The top and bottom of the box are angled A smaller box, aligned vertically with the top box is attached to the spat A rectangular box is attached at the rear of the spat and finishes at an angle on the greave Level 2 The greave is a single piece construction with a seam only present at the rear and overlaps to the inside of the greave The rear spat box has a recess edge on the outside creating a smaller shape The spat overlaps the boot with minimal gap Boots FO style boot Sole is black rubber with no visible heel No visible buckles or laces The instep has stiches that run across and creates multiple sections Level 2 There are 3 stitches lines that run across the instep The instep is made of thick material and the stitches create obvious raised sections There is a vertical zipper on the inside that spans the height of the boot Hope this will be helpful!

Below is an amended R1 TK CRL, I have ommitted items like the batton and Pauldron and some blasters that were not seen in use in the Ahsoka series . Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have engraved vertical black lines. Lenses can be flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with the largest bar oval cutout painted black. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. The space between the 8 teeth is hollow and backed with Black or Dark grey wire screen mesh. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering 12 per side. The stipes are straight, not curved like ANH. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) have a black exterior and silver in color screen mesh. Tears and traps may not be hand-painted. Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. The Black Series helmet is approvable if modified to meet the level 1 CRLs. Light to medium weathering as per reference images. Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses have a very slight curve and are convex in style. Flat lenses and ANH style bubble lenses are not permissible. Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. Brow trim should be positioned ¼" above the eyes. Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks must be dremmelled or engraved into helmet. Cracks may be painted in metalic gold paint OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 vertical tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet. The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with 8 engraved black lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey. There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers. Green LED that can be switched on and off representing both living and the reserected Night trooper shall be fitted behind the lenses. TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Cracks must be dremmelled or engraved into helmet. Cracks must be gold leaf, gold paint is not permitted. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Upper Arm Armor Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Forearm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Gloves Black in color, made of Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Rubber ANH style gloves are not permitted. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Back Armor Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Abdomen Armor The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centered on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top ⅓ of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armor. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centered above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Cod Armor The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular plate. The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Posterior Armor The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Belt The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The back belt overlaps the front belt on the sides. There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1" 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The front belt protrudes past all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately ⅛"–¼" 3–6mm. All ammunition boxes have slightly beveled edges on the face of each box. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Thermal Detonator The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3" 76mm in diameter and 8" 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼" 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately ⅛" 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is beveled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Thigh Armor The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1" 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Lower Leg Armor The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. "Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight can be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight if fitted shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

If you wish to you could also help with the CRL text, ROTK copied below, adjust to suit the Night Troopers, copy/paste from below then edit, strike through what needs removing and add in green for new text. If aiming to be the CRL model you would also need to provide all CRL images required, I would suggest using a contrasting background, makes photo editing a little easier. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have engraved vertical black lines. Lenses can be flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with the largest bar oval cutout painted black. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. The space between the 8 teeth is hollow and backed with Black or Dark grey wire screen mesh. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering 12 per side. The stipes are straight, not curved like ANH. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) have a black exterior and silver in color screen mesh. Tears and traps may not be hand-painted. Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. The Black Series helmet is approvable if modified to meet the level 1 CRLs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses have a very slight curve and are convex in style. Flat lenses and ANH style bubble lenses are not permissible. Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. Brow trim should be positioned ¼" above the eyes. Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 vertical tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet. The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with 8 engraved black lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey. There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers. TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Upper Arm Armor Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Forearm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gloves Black in color, made of Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Rubber ANH style gloves are not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Back Armor Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Abdomen Armor The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centered on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top ⅓ of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armor. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centered above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Cod Armor The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular plate. The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Posterior Armor The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Belt The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The back belt overlaps the front belt on the sides. There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1" 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The front belt protrudes past all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately ⅛"–¼" 3–6mm. All ammunition boxes have slightly beveled edges on the face of each box. Thermal Detonator The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3" 76mm in diameter and 8" 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼" 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately ⅛" 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is beveled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. Thigh Armor The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1" 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. Lower Leg Armor The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. "Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight shall can be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight if fitted shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): A small flashlight shall can be mounted on the right side of the blaster forward the front sight. BlasTech T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle Based on a real or replica Lewis Mark I machine gun. For this prop the magazine disk and bipod of the original gun are left off. Rubber or rubber-like tubing is wrapped around the barrel shroud covering about ½ the length of the shroud. A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster forward the front sight. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A black nylon 2-point sling shall be attached. Front sight shall be present on top of forward most large barrel ring. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Three large barrel shroud rings are present, two before the rubber tubbing and one prior to the shroud transition. Small barrel ring is present at end of the barrel. Charging handle is mounted on right side of the blaster. Gas Key Adjustment Lever greeble is mounted on the bottom of barrel shroud before forward most large barrel ring. Oil Cleaning Brush greebles are mounted on stock. Sling is mounted to blaster and stock and not wrapped around either. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. Baton and holster Flat or matte black in color, free of adornment or decoration. Is composed of three sections that extend outward when in use. When not in use, it appears as one cylinder. Is approximately 14" long when collapsed and 1" in diameter. The baton hangs off of the left rear belt, on a black holster. It is be attached at two points on the holster: one at the top, and one at the bottom. The baton should not swing when holstered. The holster is made from leather or leather-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): 3D printed blasters and any approvable accessories can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. Imperial Binders Imperial binders accurate in detail and proportion to official references is an authorized accessory. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): 3D printed blasters and any approvable accessories can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. Tk rogue one pauldron.jpg Pauldron Rogue One Pauldrons denote rank or mission specialization. The Rogue One Pauldron is specific to Rogue One and differs from the original trilogy in color and stitching. Original trilogy Pauldrons are not an authorized accessory for Rogue One armor. An Orange, white, or black ornament made of leather plastic or leather-like material, worn over the right shoulder. The Orange is specific to Rogue One and a different shade from the original trilogy. The colored panel is divided into three sections by color matched stitching to conform to the wearers shoulder and has black piping around the outside edge. The remainder of the Pauldron is black and divided by black stitching into 10 segments. The neck closure is black and has two black snaps visible. There is a black elastic strap that runs from back to front and is worn under the bicep to hold the Pauldron in place. The strap is conned to the Pauldron on top by two black snaps inlayed in black “D” shaped leather or leather-like ends. The underside of the Pauldron is white regardless of top color and is divided with white stitching into 13 segments. The entire outside edge is finished with black piping and the underside of the neck closure is black. Comlink A comlink may be worn on the belt

I've always had to leave jagged edges of excess material when trying to get my clippers around curves. I usually go back and cut away almost all of the remaining excess with an Xacto knife and then sand tiny bit of remaining excess away. That is a bit more time consuming than what others do, so many here will recommend a Dremel for that. The cover strips for the biceps are commonly the same width as the forearm cover strips, so 15mm would be the typical width for both. I say that as I see your notes indicate 12mm for the bicep cover strips.

Should be fine (albeit entirely up to your GML), there is no requirement about the ends of the cover strips being straight or angled, you can take the corners off too if you wish. Also note the lower ridge seam filled, either ABS paste or Sugru

No it wouldn't sorry. Things like the cover strips need to be glued on to look right, and a layer of velcro instead, would not only not be up to the job, it would not look right and so not be clearable. This is why glues like E6000 are recommended as if a mistake is made of change required it's a reversible bond than you can remove and re do.

Today I'm not gonna have too much time to work on but I'm happy with what I did get done. Yesterday I took the clamps & magnets off the bicep and forearm, both turned out well and I started gluing another cover strip on the bicep, and cleaned up the forearm with a rag. The right forearm is all glued now so woo. As for today I managed to trim all of the right leg, so very woo. Although I do now have a bunch of leftover ABS chunks that I'm not entirely sure what to do with, I may just use my dremel to grind them all down into bits for paste/slurry. Anyway that's all for today, I'm gonna have some lunch.

Hi Brains-trust - an update after I finally received the parts my kit was originally missing. I was nervously checking the tracking from the US for weeks. It took two weeks to scoot around the East coast of the US, then one day to San Fran and then next day it was at my house in Australia! New shoulder bells and button covers for my belt have made me (well, my kit) complete! I do have a spare ammo thigh belt that I'll replace at some point as I don't love the original. I *think* I have finally finished my kit and am about to submit for basic level approval, but if you see anything that needs fixing in the meantime, I'd really appreciate your feedback. Hopefully some quick adjustments I can make to get everything looking tip top. Going off the previous (much appreciated) advice, I changed over the cover strips on my shins to the correct sides. I adjusted my strapping as best I could to balance it out and it's feeling good to wear. Also heat bent the ABS belt to better contour to my body and it's a big improvement. Full Front - Helmet on Full Back - Helmet on *I'll get a better image for my submission with the velcro lined up, but it was an oversight for these pics. Left Side - Helmet on - Holster measurements were all checked. The leather is a bit softer than I'd hoped and gapes a bit, making the straps look crooked, but they'd 100% correct according to the CRL. Right Side - Helmet on Waste Up - Helmet off Action Shot *I probably should have thought of something more creative, but my wife laughed when I said that was a requirements, so we wrapped up the shoot. Any feedback would be awesome and hopefully I'll be joining your ranks soon! Cheers - Chris

Is it a safe bet that similar armor pieces to the R1 and Night trooper would follow similar build techniques for higher levels? IE for the Rogue 1 TK Biceps: OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible.

I've been printing, sanding, applying XTC-3D, and cementing the cover strips lately. Everything is printed now which feels good to complete. Everything is also sanded. I did a very rough sanding with a belt but then did everything else by hand. Most cover strips have been coated with the XTC-3D sealant by now. I discovered the craft brushes below that I wish I knew about before! They made the application of the sealant and cement so much easier and more precise. I highly recommend them when using the XTC and J-B Weld. So far, the upper arms and forearms have the cover strips cemented on. The thighs and lower legs are next. I also printed, sanded, coated, and cemented the vertical strip of the abdomen center detail.

Correct, you can go larger if required, many add to the rear to leave the front standard sized. It's entirely up to your GML what they consider approvable so best check with them before going too big. You'd be amazed how many threads there are looking for cover strip sizes but using the search function can help https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/search/?q=cover strips&quick=1 You can even find measurements in the RS photo gallery A helpful video on cutting cover strips

For the Tube strips, are there any tricks to getting that lined up properly? It's one of the last things I have to do Also, to take the old ones off, is it just elbow grease?

I don’t think it looks ridiculous. I’ve seen many troopers with this kind of shape. And I think I could pull off the look with elbow pads beneath my undersuit to round out the look. But I would rather slim it down to fit me better. My current plan is to slice off the rear cover strips and the meat underneath, close up the gaps and reapply the cover strips. While this will result in double-thickness strips, they’re currently the same thickness as the rest of the armour so I think I can get away with it. My WTF strips are thicker – unvacformed and unstretched. And I’m happy with the look of those.

If you reference the ROTK images you can tell it's outside over inside, it's pretty much the same with most costumes (same as the thighs) Note position of the cover strips too, closer to the outside

Lighting of the Armor There are 4 parts that need lighting to be screen accurate: - The jetpack grill - The two gauntlets (2x red lights) - The chest armor (1 red light on right side) The jetpack grill was straight forward as I already had done the red transparent part (see thread above) inside the top grill. I simply put a white light you can find at any hardware store that has a remote and works on 3xAAA batteries. I will last several 10’s of hours before replacement, as with a remote no issue opening the top cover each time to power it or shutdown. For the other parts, I went with easiest way forward for me, which was to use discrete LED. The ones I picked are rectangular 2x5x7mm red LEDs that work with 15-20mA/1.9-2.2V from Amazon. I have put the link belowand hope it will stay there, but these are pretty standard and can be easily replaced by Digikey/Mouser equivalents. https://a.co/d/a1I6r5v I used a small 3xAAA battery pack with rechargeable batteries that generates 4.4V and will also last 10s of hours in the Gauntlet (around 8-10h on the chest), which is perfect for using with the LED (I put 2 diodes in series). I simply added a small resistor adjusted to number of diodes to limit current. (ex: 4ohms for 2 x 2 diodes). For the 4 squares in the gauntlets, I used 4 LEDs (2 x 2 in series), for the larger rectangle, I used 6. As for the large rectangle in the chest, I used 20 (10 sets of 2 diodes in series). I glued them on an aluminum sheet (from dollar store), it helps reflect back the light in the right direction. The reason for the aluminum is to dissipate the heat from the LEDs, you don't want those to heat up and melt the PLA. As those are still discrete LEDs, you have to diffuse their light to have a uniform red glow. I used 2x 0.3mm layers on white PLA sheets I printed, cut and glued in front of the transparent red plastic of the gauntlet/ chest armor. I soldered them, then added a layer of insulating tape between the leads and the aluminum sheet to avoid shorts. I also potted the lead in clear silicone to further insultate and prevent leads from moving around. and attached them to the gauntlet with white duct tape (so that they can be removed if broken). Took me around 3h to get it done for all the parts, pretty straight forward stuff. Could be nicer looking, but nobody sees it…! N.B. I added aluminum foil on top of the duct tape and secured it with yet another layer of duct tape to block the light... otherwise the armor was glowing from the inside 😊 Below is a schematic of the assembly and basic concept of LED assembly. You should do your own circuit and validate with someone familiar with these kind of circuits prior to assembling the lighting system Below is the LED arrays prior to soldering and insultating. Unfortunately, I forgot to take picture after final assembly... The inside of the gauntlets after assembly Very difficult to take pictures of the light with a phone without over exposing the light/ under exposing the armor (phones hate LEDs), but here is a first pic that show the functional light. The most realistic view is actually from reflection on the floor…! For nicer images, I did use my reflex on the chest with two light settings and take some longer exposure to get the color right, gives a pretty good idea.

Hello and welcome to this build thread! Since I've already mostly assembled my RS kit, this thread probably won't get too long, but as it is my first build I will appreciate any advice that you can give me -- even if that advice consists of "take this entire thing and now rebuild it" (which I don't think will happen, but who knows). One thing to keep in mind when giving me tips, is that I'm building this on the floor of my childhood bedroom, which A) isn't ideal and B] probably tells you that I don't have access to a dremel or similar advanced tools. (scissors might be more work, but I've managed so far) My BBB day was around the end of May (actually, there were three boxes, the last of which arrived at the end of June) and I've been using YouTube tutorials from Richie Stormtrooper and RS Propmasters, as well as several posts on this site as guidelines for my build. Since I build most things already, my plan was to just share my current progress with you and hope for feedback. The armor As I mentioned, the armor build is mostly completed, but I still want to re-work several things (smaller return edges, screws + paint and get rid of some of the glue). For now I'm using the original strapping system, but I was planning on changing that once I get around to ordering some press studs (is that the right name? I'm German and the technical terms are easily mixed up) Here are some pictures: (I apologise for the bad quality) http://imgur.com/a/XfIPw2d http://imgur.com/a/xJAYtJQ http://imgur.com/a/RgjmssE http://imgur.com/a/AwAQwKK So much for the Torso (minus ammo belt). As I said, it's not completely done yet, but it's mostly done. Then there's the arms: http://imgur.com/iH6fUze http://imgur.com/a/Zjkpi8o I'm very happy with those. I've also got the thighs done: http://imgur.com/a/AgZDNeY http://imgur.com/a/vBF52tJ They still need that small ABS piece to cover the gap in the back. The shins are where I've still got a bit of a problem, because I can't get them to close in the back the way I want them to, nor can I get the knee plate to align right. Any help is appreciated! http://imgur.com/a/EXuR50R http://imgur.com/a/mMYE1fv I've heard that using velcro in the back works, but I fear that there would be too much pressure on the velcro to hold it closed. http://imgur.com/a/Hdhdasu I'm sure you can see my problem here. I can't get it to align right. Therefore I was thinking about taking away the millimetre of return edge that I have at the bottom, so that there would be more plastic that I can glue together... What do you think? I won't share a picture of the ammo belt for now, because I'm still waiting on the holster. The last piece of body armor left is therefore the thermal detonator: http://imgur.com/a/Tu81eeY I'm currently working on the helmet: http://imgur.com/a/q1AC5mk http://imgur.com/a/ZLg3178 Please just ignore the mess in the background- As you can see I've trimmed them down and was planning on putting them together later today. Please let me know what you think and what I need to work on, as well as any ideas for the shins. If you require any other pictures, please let me know! (I hope these pictures will show up, I'm new to imgur) Thank you for reading all of this!

A bit of delay as I was completing the lights for the jetpack, chest and gauntlets (will post some nice pics later, but very satisfied with low cost solution to get screen accurate lighting ). Here is one nasty part that gave me a lot of trouble... the ABS Abs section Probably the most challenging part is going to be the ABS section. The canon pictures are showing flexible armor With only one seam on the right side. On top of being accurate, I really did not want a hard armor, since either will be too large of a fit, or will be very uncomfortable (I can relate with my sith trooper). So I decided early on I would cast the ABS. I designed a mold out of 3D print (+bondo+ filler+ clearcoat to get perfect smooth finish) based on many pictures. 3D models online are not perfectly accurate and of course cannot be made flat. I will have the 3D model available on my Etsy soon for everyone. It had to be printed in 4 sections on my large printer to be approx. 330mm x 1000mm, as I am 5’8’’ /165lbs but I want the ABS mold to be fitting a bit larger/taller troopers if needed. casting material So I did a LOT of research on best suited material (I didn’t want to go to silicone, unless last resort as it cannot be painted ( except with costly stuff) and with the size, would be also costly. I went with Smooth-on Tuff Stuff 15, which is supposed to be designed for cosplay. Ok, that was a learning experience which cost me 4 full bottles, chat with Smooth-on tech guys, frustrations,… I colored it with so-strong pigment white and black to end up with a grey. Just black is not accurate or enough qty. Lessons learned: - Works great if : - You cast it with a room that is 20-23C. Don’t do it in hot or cold environment. The foam WILL collapse - You have to use the proper mold release and don’t be cheap on it, urethane is very sticky - Don’t remove it out of the mold before 24h, even if they say 3h,… it WILL collapse in some areas - Mix it with color in part B only. Mix it with mechanical mixer ( I used Allway HMQHelix paint mixer drll attachment on Amazon) in a high container (from 1$ store- you will throw it away) so that your mixer on your power drill will not inject air into it. Mix it for 1min at full throttle, after the first 30s, poor in new container, otherwise you will have some areas that will not cure. - Once mixed…you have 1min to poor it and level. You’ve got to be fast and accurate as it will expand 4x, not to have thin and way too thick - You have to put a plate with stoppers over it to control thickness uniformity (aim 8-9mm) and have a nice surface finish. - Even with all this, you will end up with marble finish (after several chat with smooth-on staff) , but surface finish will nice and even, so when you apply the paint it will be smooth and nice. I used Tulip grey fabric spray paint ( you can get it at Michael’s if your in US or Canada). Fabric spray paint is the best for this flexible material. It’s scary when you apply it, but when dried it is very uniform. Below are images of the mold open and closed with the cover (showing white stoppers to have 8-9mm thick ABS ( I tried several thickness and this is the optimal for this product). Here is the ABS as demolded. Painted The ideal is to use straps on the ABS to support weight of the belt, cod and holster. I used velcros from brand 'Velcro' heavy duty, white from Amazon) inside and outside to secure the parts to the ABS

The ridges are a tad wide towards the bottom. There can be a little width but normally closer to the top as you can see in this reference Personally I know it's a pain to rework but it will pay off in the end and look much better. Shouldn't be too hard to pry off the cover strips, once you have lifted an edge the pressure of pulling should release them.

No how to, I posted it in a few threads previously, it's been shared across a lot of builds and EIB threads With a heat gun or oven you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

Hello, I just got a submission and noticed the back strips of the thighs are very wide. Personally they look well beyond expectation and the CRL reference images, but there’s not specific width detailed on the CRL so I wanted to run this by detatchment to see if my expectations are beyond basic approval or in agreement with adjustments needed. thanks.

Hello and welcome to the forum from the West. First off your GML (garrison membership liaison) has final say on your costume. One thing that stands out is your bicep cover strips and raised ridges, generally we try to keep any front sizing as close to screen used, the raised ridges should be just outside the cover strips, yours have a big gap. Larger cover strips may be used on the rear to achieve a larger size if needed. Back of shins should close outside over the inside, this is so the don't appear open from the sides, yours are opposite. Cold also rotate your detonator so the O can be seen Left Right Small ab plate could be trimmed flat, should not have excess material on sides. Large ab plate is missing a base, it's been overtrimmed. You could also apply some heat to the belt (hot water bath) to help it conform to your armor better, your arms will catch the belt as they are. Elastic on your bicep to forearm appears on the sides (right arm) should be on the inner top Right arm You helmet sits a little high, could try reducing the padding. Detonator clips not completely down on belt. Shoulder elastic appears it may be a little loose, straps only just reaching the backplate. You may also want to add side shims to reduce the black seen between the abdomen and kidney (although this is for higher levels) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.

It worked!!! It took multiple attempts and I got glue in a lot of places, but the forearm is generally put together and I can fit my hand and arm through without cutting off circulation!!! After letting the glue dry for 48 hours I removed the clamps and magnets. I was a little concerned about how well I overlapped the cover strip with the edges of the forearms, but it appears I decently centered the cover strip across the gap! The wrist area is wide enough to accommodate not only my wrist, but also allow me to tuck in the edges of my gloves! I will need to do some cleanup work to remove the glue that ended up getting all over the cover strip and the edges. Removing the glue will then allow me to properly add the ABS shims to fill the current channel in the forearm armor. Some trimming is also needed for the return edges near my elbow. The outer side looks as it should! As I finally found a good way to construct the forearms I will construct the other forearm piece in the same way! It feels great to be making progress again!