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It looks really great for what it is...well done!!.... It's 10 x better than the dreadful hasbro I would sand the T-tracks down from their high arch, that really looks silly....good job though.....maybe a bit of weathering

I got an ANH Doopy Hasbro conversion kit and it came with a hollowed-out counter (to fit over the old one), and with a scope front piece. I'd be surprised if Doopy wouldn't give you both a full counter and scope with an ANH completion kit (my ESB promo pipe kit from DVH sure came with a scope)

Parts look pretty good. Might wanna keep a few good screenshots of a real modded Sterling for placement reference; the nozzle is supposed to be behind the folded stock screw/rivet, and the butt cap is supposed to almost touch the stick catch, so good job improving it. Won't need your back iron sight insert since the scope rail fills the space instead, or are you doing the rail variation seen on the Hasbro toys?

Thanks for that. That is exactly why I am asking. I didn't want to start off with a kit that would not pass muster even if I may have spent time painting correctly and assembled it following multiple guides and help from my garrison. Hasbro is a no-go so It was down to Doopydoo and THG kit... I decide my path tomorrow... for tonight I sleep on it!

That honestly might have to change once someone compares them to the real deal. After I finish modding and painting mine (shouldn't be too long) we'll be able to see exactly where they had to make consessions to fit the electronics. I can tell the front sight, magazine and end cap and pipe are small, for example. It's really not a Hasbro derivative as far as the design goes. Level one is just any old Sterling "replica". EIB requires you to drill the missing open row of barrel holes and have all the parts but you can rock a doopy mod. Centurion needs a more accurate replica though, no hasbros

It's my understanding that the modified hasbro/Disney blaster is fine for Level 1 certification. But if you want level 2/3 (EIB or Centurion?), then you'd need something better. At least per the CRL.

Disney Blaster i meant, its still a Hasbro derivative.

I thought they said no more Hasbro Blasters?

that seems like it would work for basic approval. But definitely would "tweeking" for EIB. and of course, if you want to go centurion, then this blaster will NOT work. So completely up to you. I agree with Scott above, you might as well get the Hasbro Blaster and do the minor conversion. That way you will be good to go for EIB status at least.

Nice. It can also be done to Hasbro guns and probably the disney model too. Makes a real difference to the silhouette, eh?

$55 shipped in the USA for a Hasbro blaster....something isn't right with that.

I'm at star tours right now. I guess I'll cancel my doopydoo order for the Hasbro E-11 conversion. Cast member said that these weren't supposed to come out until next week but they exhausted the last of the old style in February.

These look pretty cool indeed, better than the old Hasbro

If the Hasbro is accurate enough to be approved with, this is one will easily do the job once converted. Yes many details are a bit off, yet nothing major and i'm pretty confident you can even be Centurion approved with it.

that is awesome. they look much much better now!!!! I wish i had that one lol; stun mode is great! Unfortunately, 2 hasbro conversions are pointless lmfao

Compared to my childhood Hasbro <3 It even has fire select (on the hengstler counter) endearingly in Arubesh "blast" or "stun":

That's the Rubie's E-11. If you're near Disneyland or World, you can always get a Hasbro blaster and mod it. It's pretty easy to mod with the DoopyDoos kit.

Wow, if it's the kit you describe in your thread here : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28047-phoenix-props-e-11-stormtrooper-blaster-kits-a-new-hope-and-esb/ it Soooooo nice ! I really love it. Unfortunately a little bit expensive for my actual budget... i will wait a little bit (after my armor kit) and buy one. OK, you're right i will go step by step. First the EIB with the Hasbro and then the Centurion with a new blaster. Thank you all for your replies.

Hi Sebastien, I do many kits and full builds, depending on how much you want to do on the kit yourself. I'm in the process of updating my molds and offering so am collecting a waiting/interest list right now for when I start to cast parts again in the end of April. Your Hasbro is good for basic approval based on the CRL. If you go to level 2 you need to convert it with your conversion kit and for level 3 it would need to be replaced by a more accurate base kit. Level 2 and 3 standards are purely a FISD thing and have nothing to do with your legion approval. Also keep in mind a blaster is fully optional and not required for basic 501st Legion approval.

Decided on regular 10mm red LED. Should be brighter than Hasbro stock anyways. I'll post pics in the sun and at night tomorrow. Also, why the hell did I think it was dRoopydoo? I have problems.

Build Plan With the electronics now fully functional, it is time to start figuring out where I am going to put all this within the blaster and accomplish my goal of keeping these items hidden without having to sacrifice too much accuracy. The Battery – I will hide both the battery and its switch plate in the magazine clip, just as Skyone has done. From what I have seen in the Phoenix Prop kit, I will probably have to drill an extra hole in the barrel to run the wiring. If I am able to hollow out the magazine enough, I will use it as stock, reinforcing it with 1mm styrene. For the clip itself, I want it to slide over the top of the battery. This will allow me to use a combination of compression and magnets to hold it in place while trooping. The Scope –This part, which will consist of two decals and 4 layers of clear 1.5mm styrene that when combined will make a stacked sandwich that can be backlit. The backlighting should allow for different tones from the same LED based on transparency of the decals. It will hopefully give the illusion of a three dimensional reticle. I have used this technique in the past when using fiber optics to light up control panels in model planes. If I can pull it off on this scale, it should be very cool when looking down the barrel towards the “business†end of the weapon. I will hide the wiring for the LED by using a drinking straw that will be cut in half. Once the wiring is hot glued to the bottom of the scope and hengstler brackets, the drinking straw will cover the wires. The illusion should be that of a conduit. Yes, I lose accuracy points for this, but my hope is to paint and model it effectively so that it looks like that conduit belongs there. Time will tell how successful I can be with that. Hengstler Counter – Oh this one will be fun, as a good part of my electronics will be hidden here. The numbers for the counter will be replaced with the LED Bar Graph. I will use clear styrene to make a small “window†for the bar graph to bump right up against. To the immediate right of that will be a 2-3mm circle window that will be used for the “Selected Weapon†LED. To cut down on its brightness, I am going to frost the styrene just enough to mute it, but not make it too opaque. Tucked inside the rest of the counter will be the MP3 board and the 3W+3W mini amp chip. This is a lot of wires that will need to go back to the Arduino, so I will put in a small circuit board here to handle the incoming 5V power source, the required resistors, and a common outbound ground to get back to the main circuit. I will have a space issue, so the plan for the counter is to just cut off the front part at the seam and rebuild the shell out of 2mm styrene. The new shell will have mounting screws off of the plate closest to the barrel. The back plate will be hollow at the portion where the counter bracket comes off the scope bracket. I will have to redesign the bracket to have down drops that go right up against the barrel, allowing me to hide the hole I will have to drill for all the wiring to reach the Arduino and the remaining circuitry. Considering how complex this will be, I am going to tackle the scope and magazine clip first. The bracket coming to the counter will not be 100% accurate due to my design, but only a trained eye should be able to pick out my mod, if I do it correctly. The Barrel – The RGB LED’s will be housed in the front, along with their LED drivers and one of the two speakers. The rear will have the Arduino chip, a circuit board to handle the various wiring and the remaining speaker. With all that space needed, I am going to have a problem with getting in a spring. I will work around that challenge by using railroad modeling aluminum rods that I can bend into shape, and then build a façade to install into the rear barrel. This façade will look like a spring, and give the illusion of such, but instead of winding around in the internal circumference of the barrel, these will be individual segments that will give the appearance of the spring being in place. I can then paint it appropriately and glue into place after tacking on some screen mesh to further hide the electronics. Sounds easy enough, right? The Switches – I have to plan for 4 switches, so here we go. Switch #1, the trigger, that’s easy, put it with the trigger in the grip. Switch #2, I need a place for the “Weapon Selector†to go, hmm, after researching I am going to go with the firing retention screw. I can use some sculpting medium on the top of the Pushbutton and imitate a slotted screw, then install that into the grip that has been drilled out. Switch #3, where do I put the “Reload†button? Skyone’s build had this in the cocking handle location using a DPST switch. I was going to go the same direction, but was worried about the longevity of the part itself. Then while reading another build thread I saw someone had rebuilt the Hengstler reset button, making it functional with a spring. Wait, reset button, functional, reload. I had my epiphany and thus I will be putting my pushbutton switch into the Hengstler counter, allowing that “reset†button to work as my “reloadâ€. What are two more wires, a button and a resistor in an already crowded box? Switch #4, on/off switch. This one took some time to figure out. Skyone’s build uses a small toggle switch that is incorporated into the magazine base nearest to the barrel. Not bad, but not ideal as it isn’t hidden enough to get to the accuracy level I want to get to. I spent a few days, yes days’, pouring over reference photos before my lovely wife pointed out, “Why not use that switch looking thingy?†I didn’t know if I should laugh or kiss her for the brilliant idea; I chose the latter. So the selector switch it is, but how to pull that off? I started researching via google, looking for different switching methods when I stumbled across reed switches. Brilliant, a little tiny glass tube that is combined with magnets to act as a switch! I already have experience with using very small magnets in modeling that I did for my Warhammer days, time to break those skills out again. All my switches should now incorporate into existing parts on the E-11 and should be able to be hidden to look like standard issue sterling parts. Just have to execute it now. Going to close the chapter on Electronics, my brain hurts. In all, this chapter took 10 weeks of on and off work. Total man hours added all together to get it working was about 20 hours. Most of that time spent reworking the code to meet my personal goals for the project. The rest of the time was spent waiting for parts to come in and the free time to hit my workbench. A personal thank you goes out to Skyone, your inspiration is what drove all the above posts. It is my hope my own ideas have not twisted your original design too much. Without your work, I would have been left with Hasbro guts. Nothing wrong with that, but my “Pew Pew†is just feeling so much more like a true E-11!

Awesome- please stop posting I cant bear to even now pick up my Hasbro! Can't wait for my DVH kit to come in!

Do a search for "Hasbro E11 conversion" on eBay. There's one on there now. I bought mine that way. It took about a month to receive it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good call, Chris! I forgot that I bought my Hasbro upgrade on the 'bay (before I bought the full kit from their site). Funny thing is, it took only 9 days to get here when I used ebay.

Yes, Doopydoos is in the UK, but I had ordered a Hasbro upgrade kit from them a few months before, and it took only 9 days! I must say that I am VERY happy with the full kit. Apparently they have done some upgrades, and I have only had to do a few small gap fills. The only thing that really bothered me was their failure to answer emails. Otherwise, very pleased!