troopermaster

Your return edge is way too big. I would reduce the return edge on the top of the shin to about a quarter of what you have it or you are just inviting further cracks in the future. The shin tops are the main area on the whole armour where the plastic is stressed when putting them on. A large return edge is not necessary.

I always use Humbrol paints on my helmet builds and never have to use two coats. You just have to stir it up properly. If you find yourself using two or more coats of paint, it is probably an old tin. Buy another one, they are only cheap.

Right shoulder bridge is backwards

Marco sculpted the original armour before GF took over the reigns (legally or not I don't know). But yes, the armour in the auction is a GF.

Apart from the TD screws being completely wrong, the end ones should be much closer to the ends of the straps. RS always puts the cod rivet way too high. You are wearing the arms on the wrong arm and your shoulder bells are too big. They should be curved away from your chest and not flat.

HDPE is a very waxy plastic and paint has a very hard time adhering to it. There is a special primer that can be sprayed onto it. I remember from years ago when I formed with it and I was looking into making super flexible armour, but gluing HDPE (or LDPE and PP) together was virtually impossible without the primer, so I would say it would work for paint too. The original helmets paint cracked. They had a red oxide primer applied and probably several layers of paint, though not from a spray can. I would imagine a more flexible paint like household gloss from a tin, thinned down and sprayed, then maybe neat.

There was one on display at SWCO but I am not sure if it was an EFX or from Gino's personal collection? Either way, I doubt they will be available for quite some time (if ever).

You have ordered a top of the range armour and you are considering a low end helmet? Get the matching RS

I will eventually. I have the khaki PP standing by but forming it is very difficult.

HDPE and LDPE are very similar to PP but not the same. When RS was testing plastics they formed with them all and PP was the winner. The HDPE felt like a washing up liquid bottle (very flimsy). HDPE did not give the same look as PP and the tubes always ended looking weird. DL and TE also have the weird look and they were made from HDPE in varies colours except khaki.

It was down to either poor armour, poor materials or poor workmanship.

The original helmets are made from Polypropylene and they are pretty rigid. I have handled the original ANH helmet owned by RS prop masters and it is quite sturdy. It felt just like the replica I made several years ago. It is an old myth about them being made in HDPE or LDPE.

It sounds like Brian has the right idea. The hooks work extremely well when they are positioned correctly. The ideal position for the end of the hook (not the strap) is where the edge of the calf armour ends and the cover strip starts. This gives 6-7mm of pull to the holes which should keep a bit of tension on the elastic and keep the hooks in place.

The guys have been happy with the parts. I have been using my 1.5mm gloss ABS which is what I believe Anovos uses. If anyone who has parts from me want to chime in with photos, that would be cool. I don't have any photos to show, unfortunately.

I have sold lots of replacement parts to Anovos owners. The only problem is shipping from the UK is expensive for larger parts like thighs and torso plates.

RS trim is oversized. I have good trim available.

Hi Johnny, Good to see you back working on the armour! The ANH armour parts really did not line up perfectly so you can leave the forearms as is or line up from the elbow and trim the wrist to match. The inner half of the forearm (elbow end) usually ended up being a curve from point to point, so you don't have to leave the flat joining end squared off but you can if you want. Just make sure you cut your joining strips to match however you decide to cut them. Regarding sizing, you only need to make the wrist big enough to get your hands through. The rest of the forearm should be able to slide up and down your arm freely, so adjust to suit as necessary. A word of warning - do not make the forearms too narrow if your arms are thin. The real forearms had a nice taper to them so try and keep yours the same. Sometimes it's better to pad them out and keep them looking right than over-trim. The strapping will keep them in place anyway and remember to keep them up tight against your biceps when you add the strapping. Post more photos when you have adjusted them if you want my opinion before you cut

When I spoke to Ross (who played a Stormtrooper in TFA) about the armour, he said it was a flexible rubber type material. He said that you could almost peel the armour off - his words.

The button plate is supposed to be smaller than the raised section it's glued to. And I know the image is flipped but you have the forearms on the wrong arms

That's an RS recast TE offered several years back when he came out of retirement (again).

It's perfect! Anyone who thinks otherwise should check the original armour.

Everything is fine now

I have never seen anything quite like this before and it is definitely not the way to do it. Two rivets per side is enough. Gaps are covered by the ear caps.

There is one person on here who has all the original hardware in stock

Find a washer or coin that fits perfectly inside the mic tip and use that cut around. Cutting the mesh slightly bigger than the hole in the mic tip allows the mesh to be forced in and grips without using glue. It can be tricky so take it steady. Use a pin or sewing needle to pick the mesh out if you push it in too far