troopermaster

As far as I know, RS uses superglue so removing the strips will be very difficult. Are the thighs too big or too narrow?

Your holes in the elastic look too big. I use the smallest punch on my punch tool and all the ends of the elastic are folded over. If the problem persists, you can glue small tabs of webbing where the snaps are going, but make sure the holes are much smaller than you are currently making them.

You need to bevel the ends of the tube to allow the caps to slide on easier. Heating the caps helps a lot. When heating the caps you need to gently blow over them with your heat gun, making sure you heat the outside and inside, then force the tube into the cap on a hard surface. You may need to bevel the tube ends the whole width of the end cap since the tube seems to be too big for the caps.

I have told you how they should go together. Regardless of how they feel, that is how they are supposed to be matched up. Feel free to build them any way you like.

No, you have two inner halves together on one leg and two outer halves together on the other leg. Simply swap the outer right in the photo which is the inner left, and swap the inner left which is the outer right, and you have them perfectly assembled.

Swap the outer right and inner left parts over as they are on the wrong legs.

If I was building this kit, I would make both the joining strips the same width. I personally do not like to see a thin strip on a wide joining edge like you have done it. When I build kits for people who are larger than the screen used armour, I simply make wider strips to accommodate them - so if you need to use a 20 or 25mm wide joining strip on the arms, so be it. I try to do the same for the legs but the thighs usually require a wedge shaped strip. I much prefer this than going through the horrible mess of shimming and blending with ABS paste, and it gives a much neater finish, too. Another thing is that there really is no need for a reinforcing strip on the inside. I know a lot of people like to do this for some reason, but they really are not necessary. And finally, just an FYI to everyone: cover strips go on the outside, hence 'cover' meaning to go on or over. Inner strips should be referred to as reinforcing strips. That's a little pet hate that I wanted to get off my chest

Where did you find the measurements? They are not correct to the original ANH prop. The full length of the detonator is 185mm (7 1/4"), end caps are 20mm (3/4") and the control panel is 115mm (4 1/2").

Just to be clear - ROTJ detonators are different from ANH and ESB. The control panel is visibly different and has two stacked washers instead of one on ANH and the ribbed detail has 6 ribs instead of 7 on ANH. Also notable is the screw heads in between the ribs on the ROTJ panel. The belt clips are notably thinner and attached closer together on the ROTJ.

ANH/ESB - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/899-canister-02/ ROTJ - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/3381-dsc04121-zps202520a0/

A slight return edge can be left on the outer elbow edge but the inner curve and wrist should be completely trimmed away. This will help getting your hand through the wrist opening but remember you have to put your gloves on after if you have latex hand plates glue to your gloves. The armour should be loose on our body. The arms should be able to slide freely without any restrictions so they can move as you move. Same goes for the thighs, but the shins can fit snug. Remember to size the shins with your boots on.

Luke's white shoulder straps: Han's white shoulder straps:

Who is the maker of your kit? I can help you out with any parts you might need and knowing what kit you have will help choosing the right type of ABS to match it.

Is this guy for real? All the photographic evidence has been presented yet you choose to discredit them because it goes against what your precious staff has once again got wrong. This is not a game. There are no winners or losers. Just simply rectify the CRL and job done.

Thermal detonators and holsters should be mandatory. Assembling the armour parts outer over inner should also be mandatory. You have to have some consistency with the armour. Carrying your blaster right or left handed and black or white soles should be optional - in my opinion.

Congrats

It looks as though the WTF kit has two outer left parts in the kit - now that I can see them from the front. You have them assembled as good as possible but the shin on the left hand side of the photo is the left shin and the one on the right is the right, so they want swapping over before you mount the sniper knee plate on the wrong leg.

Bingo!

This is how I strap armour when I use snaps and elastics. It is by far the simplest and most effective way to strap armour. No faffing around with suspenders. Just snap it all together and slide into the armour from one side - very much like you would if your armour was strapped using the screen-used method. Stay well away from Velcro for connecting the armour together. Just use it on the back of the calves and to keep your belt closed.

Not good. You have them laid out exactly as your current shins are assembled which are two inner halves and two outer halves paired together. The way you have them is R-L L-R.

I gave up hope on this forum years ago. The FISD staff are casual trooper fans and not really in a position to be writing CRL's - especially when it comes to screen accuracy - which I know is not a 501st priority and I can appreciate that, but at least when details are shown they should be accepted. My advice is to keep on building the armour as you know they should be and screw the CRL's. Good luck

The capped rivets used on the original armour are 'single' capped rivets and they are used to hold the main ammo belt to the canvas belt and the elastics on the drop boxes, as well as the ammo strap on the thighs - 7 used in total. Just a friendly FYI

Congratulations

The RS bells need trimming down. For reference, my bells measure 31cm up the ridge from the bottom to the top and 28cm measured on the lower edge that overlaps the biceps.