troopermaster

Click the 'direct link' tab on your photo then paste into 'insert image' tab in your message box when typing. It's the box inbetween the ones with green + signs

In that case it will be a CAP or a recast of a CAP. Dark Agent is a member here under a different name.

I use 1" wide black elastic for my chin straps with small 's' spring snaps, and I add a couple of knots for an authentic look

I haven't seen that photo or pose before either. I am sure there are lots more photos of the promo guy just waiting to be found

My rubber trim supplier has glossy white edge trim. If there would be enough demand, I could get some and offer it on here. Looking forward to seeing your build JJ

The first time I saw a real stormtrooper was at the Kellogs Power of the Myth exhibition held at Wembly in 1999. There was two troopers wearing LFL tour suits and I remember how awesome they looked, even though they kept on bumping into people I had already started on my trooper project when I saw them and I based my first set of moulds on the ROTJ because of how much I liked the troopers I saw at Wembly. Later the next year, I visited the Magic of Myth exhibiton in London which had a real ROTJ stormtrooper on show which I took lots of photos of from all kinds of angles to help me with my sculpts. I can tell you I got some funny looks from the staff and from some of the visitors too. It's not every day you see someone laying on their back taking photos of a troopers cod piece The next real trooper I saw was at an exhibiton in Sheffield. It was a moving images exhibition and only had one starwars related item, luckily for me it was a real ROTJ stormtrooper. Again, I took lots of photos and a couple can be seen on starwarshelmets.com.

Get your biceps to fit you correctly first. All the arm and leg parts can be trimmed down and there is no set size for them, so trim them down if neccesary. Once you are happy with the biceps, a 20mm wide black elastic strap glued inside at the the bottom of the shoulder bell will keep the bell from sticking out. The original ANH armour is far from perfect and the joining strips rarely fit the flat edges of the thigh as they should. I make a 20mm wide joining strip and I mark it half way (10mm) and offer it up to each half of the thigh and make a pencil mark where the 10mm mark is. This usually ends up being something like 15mm wide at the top of the thigh, 10mm in the middle and 12-15mm at the bottom. Do not panic if the strips do not meet the flat section of the thigh, it's normal Just check out any original armour photos for reference. There is no set size. Whatever fits you is the size it should be. Don't make them too tight, just nice and loose. Make sure to do plenty of test fitting before you commit to gluing them together. Hope that helps Andy

The plastic shoulder straps are purely cosmetical, so the best way to attach them is to fix them to the chest plate only using E6000 glue. The back end of the shoulder strap can either be left alone, or for a screen accurate look, use a 1/4" thin strips of white elastic to hold them in place. The best way to connect your chest and back plate is to use an elastic strap 'inside' your armour to connect the pieces. Elastic is good as it allows more movement than webbing, plus, it's screen accurate Use snaps to connect the inner shoulder straps to the chest and back plate.

Best to use heavy duty camping snaps like these -----

Just glue the fronts, not the backs, they should be shut on their own if assembled correctly. You don't need to open up the shins to put them on. Simply slide your foot through them and then put on your boots afterwards. When removing the shins, take off your boots first and gently pull open the shin slightly at the ankle area and slide your foot out. No need open them right up and off your leg. This is if you want to try and keep your kit looking as close to a screen used stormtrooper, otherwise just velcro wherever you think you need it

On a screen accurate suit, the only velcro would be on the back of the canvas belt E6000 is best adhesive to use.....period!

All I can do is echo what everyone else has already said. Fantastic work Pablo, simply AWESOME! Great job mate

Wow, I just noticed the black middle tooth! It may just be the light or something....best watch the scene frame by frame again to check Looking at the second picture you posted Pablo, you can actually see some white gaffer tape on the shoulder bell where it covers the squib before he gets shot. I'm loving the rubber thighs BTW. These ANH costumes are simply fantastic. I love how they look thrown together, all rugged and scuffed up....gorgeous

Great screen caps Pablo! I have often wondered about these thighs. I would have to agree that they are made from a different material than the rest of the armour, not sure if it is latex or not, could well be though? The same wobbly thighs can be seen near the end of ESB when one trooper is shooting at the Millenium Falcon as it takes off from Bespin. The trooper is the same guy in both scenes, as well as the same one who falls from the bridge when shot by Luke, which I believe is stunt man Peter Diamond. You can tell this by the way the helmet is assembled (face plate lop sided and frown has three teeth cut out) and the fact that one shoulder bell looks padded (for squibs). I remember reading somewhere that his suit (maybe all stunt performers too) were assembled differently than regular sets, plus trimmed differently too.

Stefan, MFX used to make his kits from 3mm HIPS. I am not sure what he uses these days as it has been quite some time since I spoke to Guidon. What I do know is that he did not have an original tour suit. The armour he made was recast from either a CO or TE since it had the exact same duplicate parts as well as other tells. As for this NGB, I would guess it is the work of Marcus and if it is, it's a recast of a CAP.

A fabulous collection of helmets Mark, I'm envious The DL face is extremely close to the TE hero, almost an exact duplicate from what I can see. Do they match up size wise?

Another incredible build Pete! You got talent mate

Fantastic job on the assembly Pablo! I'm loving the helmet. It is hardest part of the assembly in my opinion, but you have done an outstanding job building it up mate Looking forward to seeing you suited up

Thanks for those photos Terrell I can clearly see that one side of the channel has been trimmed off from the 'S' profile trim. Why they trimmed it makes no sence really?

When I glue parts together using E6000, I run a thin bead of glue towards the edge of the armour so that when I offer up the joining strip, the glue can spread without coming out and bing seen. If it does come, which it sometimes does, wait until it dries and run a razor blade along the edge of the joining strip and pull off the offending glue. You can do the same on the inside to make sure the opposite half of the armour butts up correctly. I've read that some people run a bead of glue on their armour and spread it out first, so that they don't get any runs. Don't worry about any slight gaps. I think filling them with silicone is a bit over the top in my opinion. You don't need to use a lot of E6000 to get a good bond, it's a great adhesive and is available in white too

Terrell, Do you have any photos of the trim with the lip removed because it just looks like bog standard square 'S' profile trim to me? If you look at this photo below, the old spec SWR150 is close to what was used originally and the larger channel is fitted to the helmet and the thinner channel would be inside.

Nice work Armando! I've been asked whether the trim on the ESB neck is the same as the brow, it's not. I know it looks like 'U' channel, but if you look closely where the ear caps touch the trim, you can see that it is actually 'S' channel, the same as all the other helmets made. I have not yet seen any original trooper helmet that uses brow trim on the neck. Just thought I'd point this out as there seems to be some confusion about the trims. Photos courtesy of Jez.

Nice butt Nate

It's you That is a hero helmet, not a regular stormtrooper helmet. I believe the MR helmet was scanned from that actual helmet in the link, but it only used one half and mirrored the opposite so the MR would be symmetrical.

Regularly