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CableGuy

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Everything posted by CableGuy

  1. And that’s a WRAP! The RS Prop Masters ANH Stunt replica project is complete. This short video takes you on a recap tour of the process, through to some glory shots of the completed helmet. Thanks to everyone that had followed the build. Please enjoy this final video run through. [emoji122][emoji3526] Click this link for the video:
  2. I’m with Glen on this one. The little cotton under gloves do an amazing job and can be washed before your next troop. This way, you still get to troop with accurate gloves. Also, I’ve never had a pair rip either. I have a couple of different pairs and both are wearing really well. :-)
  3. Hi Chris, Welcome to the FISD from the mainland. Great to have you joining the TK ranks. Loads of info here, but feel free to shout if you have any questions. Have you chosen your TK supplier yet? Best wishes Dan / TK42911 UKG
  4. Hi Matt, Do you have a dedicated build thread with images of what parts you are gluing? E6000 can take 24 to 48hrs, with pots of clamps and magnets, for certain parts.
  5. Hey trooper, A bit like Glen, I also keep my voice amp outside of the helmet. To be honest, if you put it inside your helmet, I think you’d do some long term hearing damage as you’ll have to turn it up quite loud for it to be heard in many situations. I also have my fans in my helmet, then have an over the ear mic, hardwired down to behind my chest plate to the amp/speaker. Here’s a look at how I’ve personally mounted my fans and power pack inside a helmet: Here is how I use my voice system - as you’ll see, I simply hang the amp/speaker around my neck, facing outwards towards the chest plate: Hope that helps. Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Best wishes Dan
  6. Hiya Do you have any photos? I’m struggling to visualise what you’re describing. Best wishes Dan
  7. Here’s some more useful info on vocoders. :-) https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48252-anh-tk-vocoder-examples/
  8. It’s been a long time since I’ve bumped this thread. Hopefully, new recruits will find the images and recommendations helpful. :-)
  9. Hehe. Cool. That sounds MUCH healthier for your ears. Lol Keep up the good work. [emoji16][emoji1303][emoji16]
  10. Hi Paul, Awesome! So pleased it looks matches in person. That’s the key thing. (I have similar issues with photos where the shade of one part looks a little different, yet it looks pretty spot on in person). Great “snag” list. Those chin straps are hard enough with just the helmet on, let alone when you’re armoured up. Lol
  11. Hi Doggydoc, Wow - that’s a packed helmet, for sure. ;-) Is the Aker amp IN your helmet? Those things are loud and I’d be concerned for your hearing if it’s actually in the helmet.
  12. Wow, Paul. The for and finish on that look superb! Excellent job. [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16] Something I can’t help but notice is what appears to be different shades of white. It could just be the lighting, but, the thighs look like they might be a different colour to the cod, drop boxes, belt etc. How does the colour come across in natural light?
  13. Hi Jonathan, Overall, that looks like it fits you pretty well. Although, it’s not easy to be sure from the various angles of your photos. Could you try a current suit up and get the following photos? Kitted up; Front - arms down Left - arms down Back - arms down Right - arms down Front - arms up/out Left - arms up Back - arms up Right - arms up Something which might help with the shins is upgrading your boots (when possible). Your’s look like what’s commonly referred to as “Elvis boots” and look quite wide at the top. This is picking your shins a few inches higher than they could be, which will reduce the gap at the knee between the shins and the thighs. If you were to upgrade to some more accurate boots (ones without detailing or stitching on the top surface), you could pull those shins down a bit. “Elvis boots” Screen used “Stuart” Boots. Hope that helps.
  14. Lovely work, trooper. [emoji1303][emoji16]
  15. Hallo Julius! [emoji1309] Don’t be concerned. The coverstrips on the original suits varied in width. Generally speaking, the usual suggestion (for a neat look) is: Arms - (approx) 15mm Legs - (approx) 20mm Shins backs (calves) - (approx) 25mm However, this is NOT part of the CRL. The main thing that most costumers aim for is consistency. So, if you’ve gone 12mm, try to make all arm coverstrips 12mm. Same with the legs. Pick your width, then try to stay consistent. This also depends on how big or small you’re building the armour. If you’re building to original sizes (slim), you can get away with thin cover strips. If you’re a larger trooper, you might need to increase the width of them to keep the proportions to the armour. RS aim for more “screen accuracy” than CRL, so they usually base things on the screen used armour that they possess. Do you have your own build thread yet where you can show your progress? Assuming you’re going for ANH/ESB, you can start one here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/6-anh-stunt-and-hero/
  16. Hi Nick Enjoy your break away. :-) A little food for thought for your return to the white stuff. Coverstrips. I know you said you’re not keen on the screen accurate 45° corners of the coverstrips, however, perhaps the length of them is something you’d consider changing for a cleaner look. As below, the original coverstrips are never significantly longer than the armour. In fact, they are usually only as long as the shortest armour piece (seen bottom left in picture below): As you’re aiming for Centurion (I.e. for more of the screen accurate details), this could be a consideration. Here’s more details on coverstrips:
  17. Hi Jonathan, Yes, you’re in the right place. To be honest, I don’t think you’ll be penalised for having a different number of indents in the forearms. Some makers out there don’t have the correct amount to start with, yet still get cleared. However, to be safe, check with your local Garrison GML as they are the ones that will be approving your suit. Personally, I’d avoid too many drastic changes to the main features of the armour if another resizing option might be available to you. If you have photos of you wearing the suit, we can do our best to guide you in making adjustments to suit. Best wishes Dan
  18. Hiya, To help is visualise, can you post some photos of what you’re planning? Do you have a WIP thread yet where you can document your build? Best wishes Dan
  19. Hi trooper, If you have an option to return or exchange them, you can certainly find better, more suitable boots as the originals did not have the stitching on the front. However, as Glen said, they will probably be okay at basic (check with your GML). My concern would be the size of the opening. It looks like it is very large and this might make it difficult to get a good fit for the shins.
  20. No worries. We feel your pain - it’s a nightmare applying things to the curved surface of the cheeks. Stencils, decals, even regular masking tape is tricky to get it in the right place. You got this. [emoji16]
  21. Hi Paul, Welcome aboard!! Great links and advice from the guys above. The list of vendors is definitely helpful. Before you spend any hard earned cash, feel free to post here and we’ll happily give you advice. If you want to get a feel for how a stormtrooper suit is built, I’d suggest a could of different build tutorials. They’ll give you a really good idea of how to trim the plastics, gluing, snaps/poppers, elastics and strapping, all sorts. First and foremost, before you start on your build, I’d check out this website and learn more about the original screen used props: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/stormtrooper_helmets_armor_and_costumes.htm Build tutorials - RS Prop Masters: RWA Creations: Once you’ve got a good idea of the build progress, feel free to check out my videos which go into the finer details: Best wishes Dan
  22. Hi Chris, Very neat. Good job. Not sure if it’s the light but, are the right hand side ones (when worn) drifting away a little from the cheek at the front? This might not be an issue for basic clearance but might be noticed at higher levels, so up to you if you want to correct it or not. The other side looks super. [emoji16] (Btw, if you use the “stand back, zoom in” technique for these photos, you’ll be able to see the tubestripes a little easier from the front. Example below:)
  23. Hi Matt, Congratulations on achieving EIB. In addition to what the DOs have mentioned, I’d also note that your neck trim appears to be applied the wrong way around. Currently, you have the thick side out, whereas the thin side should be on display. Hopefully, just removing it and flipping it should still fit okay. Here’s RS talking about it: https://youtu.be/Aiv6G9fa6Ak Hope that helps. Best wishes Dan
  24. Hi Gerald I wouldn’t be too concerned here. Just bear in mind that your armour maker has added a few inches to the sides too allow for different sized troopers (I’d guess maybe 3” on the back plate, and 1 or 2” on . You can see the extra inches when you compare: As such, it’s not going to be quite the same as the originals. When you start sizing it to your body, you can then start looking at trim lines and how the return edges might be. Honestly, I wouldn’t be too worried about it. The sides end up under your arms (most of the time) and are partly obscured by your belt. Unlike the helmet, which is a focal point, the sides will be less so. [emoji16]
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