CableGuy

Hey troopers I’ve painted the vocoder and, being me, filmed the process and talked tips and tricks about the originals. I also reworked one of the tears as I wasn’t happy with the vertical stripes. I’ve also added the acetate lenses and the chin strap. It’s a real thing of beauty, this RS lid. That’s all for now. :-)

A little update for you lovely folks. I’ve started some weathering my RWA Tie Pilot helmet. Work in progress at this stage. I love that the Star Wars universe is used and gritty, just how I like replica props. [emoji2956][emoji2956][emoji2956] Need to throw it in a skip for a little bit for extra authenticity. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Hey troopers, I have made some more progress on this RS helmet, including additional painting. Here’s a video where I talk about the painting process whilst I paint. Lots of info in here: And here’s how the helmet is looking now. As the OT stormtroopers were used, gritty, and worn, that’s how I’m making this replica. Hope you’re enjoying the progress. [emoji3526] Best wishes CableGuy Dan

Lol. I don’t think I told you they were “wrong”. I’d use the phrase “provided feedback and side-by-side comparisons”. ;-)

Hey trooper, Sorry I’m so late to the thread. If your helmet maker supplied two sets of ears, personally, I’d consider trimming the second set to about half the thickness and see how it looks. Here’s some side-by-side photos to give you some reference: Approx trim line in red It looks like your ears have a mould line in them where they would usually be trimmed; As below, you have quite a bit of excess on the back&cap where it meets the faceplate. This might be keeping the two parts from butting up. Just suggestions, so don’t feel you have to make these suggested changes, just maybe worth a go if you have spare ears. :-)

Making good progress, Michael. :-) If you’d like to tidy up the vocoder a little bit, I’d highly recommend a “filbert” brush as these have a nice rounded tip. As below, your’s is currently a little more ‘squared’, whereas the originals are a little more rounded. If you need to remove some paint to create a rounder shape, I find you can gently scrape with a wooden tooth pick / cocktail stick without damaging the plastic. As below, I’d aim for something a little more like this: Here’s a video of how I paint mine using a filbert brush: (skip to around 8mins) [/url] And, here’s a useful thread on the different vocoder styles. Most “stunt” troopers had a “fuller” vocoder, just like the reference photos above. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48252-anh-tk-vocoder-examples/

Hi Glenn, I think that “odd” gap between the tears and ears is about right for RS. (This is how my RS went together): If it were me, knowing what a pain it can be to re-drill new holes etc, especially for a new builder, it might be safer for Michael to use the second set of ears (I believe RS still supply a spare set) and trim them less if he wants to cover the gaps.

If you go to your first post and click “edit”, it should offer you the option to edit your thread title. :-)

The dent (known as the “crush” under the chin is supposed to be there. It’s part of RS’s original helmet and they have faithfully maintained it. If you are going for ANH (A New Hope) Stunt, here is the CRL - https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt If you can, I’d suggest taking some photos from exactly side on, front, and rear, to let us check the alignment. To help us most, stand around 6 feet back from the helmet and use 2x zoom on your camera (assuming it’s a smart phone). This will give us good perspective. Like this (also RS):

Hi folks, Just to avoid confusion when people offer advice, the title of the thread says “AM” build (armour master), yet the first post says this is an RS kit. Which maker is the helmet and armour?

Hi DeadDan, Which make is your armour? Different makers use different plastics, so I’d consider checking with your armour supplier first to try and get a good colour match. Some makers use ABS or acrylic capped ABS - these have very different finishes. Worth checking before you commit. :-) Dan

Haha!! Exactly! Lol [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]

Thanks, Glenn. I assumed you’d already have one as one of your many costumes. It’s such a great helmet to build - I’d recommend it. [emoji16]

Good thinking, Tino. Knowing how good your work is, do you have any photos of your Tie? I’d love to (drool over) look at yours. [emoji16]

Continued… As I’m a stickler for details, I replaced the RWA greeblies with slightly more accurate one. Even the alignment is the same as the original helmet, as well as the greeblies being mounted BEHIND the trident, not on top of it. I also swapped out the decals for slightly more accurate ones from CFO. I precariously attached the bubble lenses using hot glue. Now applying the pill box on the rear. And now to some final glamour shots. I will add some weathering soon, but this is the completed helmet in clean form. :-) Here’s some of the finer details in video form: Many thanks for reading. Please ask away with any questions and I’ll do my best to answer them. :-) Best wishes Dan (CableGuy)

Hey troopers, As many of you know, I’m a bit of an OT TK nut (gasp). I’ve had my head in the world of TKs for a long time now and have learned a huge amount. However, there are some other amazing characters out there from the Star Wars universe, and the Imperial Tie Pilot is just one of them. This kit is from UK maker RWA Creations and is a “fan sculpt”. It came complete with all of the parts to make and finish the helmet, although I added and/or modified parts along the way. Here’s how it arrived: As with many builds, I started with some pencil lines to draft my cut lines. The RWA faceplate is a little narrow, so I used a heat gun (carefully) and widen the top section of the faceplate a little. After the basic trimming was done, I started on the Mohawk. Next, I used the supplied brass nuts and bolts and attached the faceplate and dome together. I was careful to match the positioning to screen used helmets. By studying reference photos, I noticed that the RWA trident was a little thick, so I trimmed it down a little - as per below pencil line. Another cool feature (one not carried out on a lot of builds I’ve seen) is the big cutout in the faceplate. To stop the helmet having a huge gap here, this part was backed with an additional piece of black ABS. Next up, I glued the trident in place. With the main build done, I started on the painting. I used screen shots of the original screen used hero helmet of this style, then made a template using a CriCut machine. The paint that I used here was Rover Gunmetal spray paint, painted on with a brush (not sprayed). More to come in the next post… :-)

Nice one, Chris. Look forward to seeing the pulls in ABS. [emoji16]

Well done, Jim. Great to have you as part of the UKG family. [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]

Get well soon, Trooper. :-)

Yearly thread bump... :-)

Bumping this thread for new recruits. Enjoy the video. :-)

Hi Chris, Thanks for the side shots (via pm). Firstly, let me say that you’re doing a good job given that it’s derived from a 3D model. It’s better than quite a few helmets out there. Now, there’s a few areas that really catch my eye. Firstly, I’d say your faceplate is currently too far up into the back & cap. It’s looking more ROTJ than ANH. From this photo, you’ll also see that the ear caps (the disc parts) look too small, and the part that curves around the cheek is too thick. Yours look a little more like the ears on an SDS helmet, rather than the originals. Note the red lines I marked under the RS helmet above, how it curves from front to back. Yours is more straight, more like ROTJ. ROTJ REFERENCE As you mentioned, the face looks a little thin, and the eyes are perhaps a little “droopy”. Not sure if that’s just the camera angles. Here’s an overlapped comparison: Like I said up top, you’re honestly making a good job of something that is very hard to get right as it was hand sculpted and notoriously asymmetrical. Also, I’ve been staring at these things for the last 5 years and know their features better than my own kids (joke) so I’m far more fussy than the majority. Best wishes Dan

Hi Chris, Looks like you’re making progress. Out of interest, are you looking at getting this to CRL/legion clearance level? Or more of a project for you or casual cosplay? Do you have any photos from exactly side on (not slightly above looking down)? That will be telling of how the back/cap and faceplate align. Dan

Hey troopers, More progress on this wonderful lid. This time around, I’ve been removing the liquid masking fluid. Remembering back, the Vallejo Liquid Masking fluid was applied to the helmet (with a paint brush) AFTER the Fossil Green spray paint was added. Since then, the Oxide Red and Ford Diamond White spray paint has been added. Gently removing the masking fluid reveals the Fossil Green paint, giving the helmet the illusion that there is a green HDPE/PP plastic helmet under the white spray paint, just like the originals. Here’s a video of the process, including more discussion about the original helmets and a how to. Now, for some eye candy; Work in progress. Hope you’re enjoying the build so far. Any questions, just drop a comment here or on the YouTube video. :-) Best wishes CableGuy Dan

30mins or so with Humbrol Grey #5 and things are looking much more familiar. [emoji3526] (More details and photos to follow)…