revlimiter

Walt is doing another run of these as well. There could potentially be ten more Rebels TKs in the legion soon.

This is not actually correct. The included rotary switch works just fine with BlastFX. Mine is currently hooked up that way. This is crude but should get the idea across. This is how you rewire the rotary switch from one to the other. Top is the rectangular switch that BFx supplied and bottom is the round one that Blaster Factory supplied. Set them on the table in the same orientation as my little drawing and that gets you the wiring pin locations. Then just desolder the ribbon cable from the original switch to the new one. There's a chance the wires on the Blaster Factory switch will be backwards. If this happens, just switch them, but this SHOULD be correct. I did this about a month ago. Next, load the BlastFX SD card onto your PC. It's on the main board and does indeed come out, though it may give a struggle. Look for the user.ini file and load it into a text editor. Use a PC or linux machine, not a mac. Look for the lines... [USER] DISPLAY_NAME = BlastFX FIELDMARSHALL = NO and change FIELDMARSHALL to YES. Then install the SD card in your BFX again and test it. Maybe I was lucky, but mine worked right off.

https://keeptrooping.com/product-category/footwear/ I don't see a boot for the Commando currently.

Just incredible.

Nomex pilot gloves sir. 1 set is now 68ish troops strong. I use some junk called AnyGlove on the fingertips of mine to let me take selfies.

That looks GREAT Logan! The suit has really come a long way. Well done on all the hard work!

Yes, that IS my pile of E11s

I mean, if we're all commenting on that fine looking buttplate, I'm gonna join in.

Chatting about Avatar with @Morgi this morning got me inspired and side note - I had to wrap [ img ] ... [ /img ] tags around my links to make them post. I guess imgflip changed how it works

Outstanding work!

The amount of abuse I've put my AP armor through in the past year with nearly ZERO damage is truly exceptional. I sit in it like I wasn't wearing armor. I climb and run. I've laid down and crawled around. The AP armor just takes it. I wipe it off and polish up the scratches and it's ready for more action. I honestly love how the RS armor looks and drool over it constantly, but I wouldn't trade my AP for it at this point. Look at my troop log linked in my signature to see the AP in action.

There's a Facebook "Star Wars Blaster Builder's group" if you're into building your own or printing. There's a few on there that build by commission like @Troopacoola. And, as a proud owner of a Blaster Factory E11, I can say nothing but good things about it. It's a bit heavy, but very troopable. Troop-able? Troopeable? You can carry it for several hours comfortably. It's very well built and not at all delicate, so no worries about it crumbling in your hands. You can see my own build here: There's also Quest Design in Canada that makes a lovely resin blaster. I have one of those as well. It's lighter than the Warmachine/blasterfactory, but not as robust. I've broken several pieces off over the years and have been replacing those bits with metal parts from Warmachine. There's also the Rubies toy blaster (white and orange) you can get on amazon. It's not very accurate (it's actually the model used for the Rebels E-11) but you can make it accurate if you've got crafting skills. It weighs just a few ounces and won't break when you hand it to a kid. They paint up nice and are easy to troop with. As Justin said, there's rubber blasters on etsy and it's best to steer clear of them. Just not worth it when so many other options exist.

Buckets off. Rest in peace Dan.

Yes sir! The idea is zero white showing while standing and you will very very likely have to cut the top of the ab plate to have it hidden under the black side extension. Just about everyone with this style armor (new generation?) needs to cut it under the armpit like that. As a bonus, it'll be a lot more comfy and breathe better with that plastic removed.

YES!!!!!!!!!! That double strap thing is something I (am pretty certain I) read and then couldn't remember the exact details. Thank you Glen!! Front offset + side would be great for action, sitting, and not rotating. Excellent. That's what I'll replicate. Cover strips glued on the outside edge - check. I also especially like the relief cuts. Much better than the regular Jimmi thigh cuts. My whole beef with updating the CRL to have the back coverstrips offset is exactly as you mention - how they look offset depending on the wearer. Since many stunt actors wear these costumes, the thighs are different depending on who's inside. I'm sure there's someone who would fit the costume perfectly and have a nicely centered cover strip. Maybe the whole stunt cast that season did their squats and have tree trunks, thus the wide fitment. But that's my beef. Since we make our armor sets specifically for our bodies, and no one else is likely to be in our armor, there should be no requirement to have the rear thigh cover strips offset. Passable? Sure. Just not a requirement to have them offset. Centered is the ideal fit for the ideal trooper, which is everyone here. Stunt actors don't have that luxury. Anyways, didn't mean to soapbox. I understand why they're often offset on screen. I just really hope we don't have to emulate that here. and again, thanks for those photo references!!

I've been trying to find THE answer for exactly what a Rogue One TK needs for their thigh strap and I'm coming up short. Help a brother out? I'm usually quite good at ferreting this kind of thing out. The CRL - The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1” 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. It seems to call for a single strap with a visible (yet covered) buckle on "the side seam of the leg". But... there's no side seam. The armor is smooth on the side and the pants, I think, should also be unseamed. Also, a single strap on the outside edge of the thigh armor would do a poor job of holding it up well. It would always want to spin. My own ANH thigh strap is just outboard of the front cover strip by about 10 degrees. @11b30b4, our lone R1 centurion, has the strap at about 80 degrees from front. Is okay moving forward? And if so, how far forward can I cheat this? @equuspolo has a beautiful thigh strap system on his FOTK. Two straps, mostly positioned at the front. One at dead front and one about 15 degrees outboard. I love this as I believe it would allow the maximum maneuverability. Easy sitting too. And less rotation. This is from the archive. While I disagree with the thigh cover strip alignment (that's an argument for another time), it shows one strap past 90 degrees on the right side. It's more like 110 degrees from the front. There's gotta be another strap in the front, yes? I don't see one in the front. How would this even stay oriented correctly after walking 5 steps? Seems odd. I've gotta be missing something. And that's why I'm asking for help.

It can be difficult (and often impossible) but the correct way to do a green screen photo is with several lights lighting the screen itself, then a decent chunk of distance, then some lights on you. You should be rather far away from the back wall. 10 feet at least, but more if you can manage. The more distance, the less green shows up on your armor. If you're right next to the screen, your armor turns green as well. Additionally, it looks like the white balance is different in most of these. Force your phone or camera to a specific white balance for all of the shots in the same session. It depends on the temperature of your lighting equipment. Choose one that makes your armor look whitest and stick with it. Not too yellow or too blue. Most phones and all cameras will allow you to do this in a manual or "pro" mode. Also, +1 on Glen's input.

The batteries will indeed die just sitting there and existing. My first icomm battery sat in the unit from 2017 till 2021 and didn't get trooped with once. It was dead when I tried it after years of sitting. I replaced it and got about 5 months of life out of that replacement. The link Glen posted is the best solution to the icomm battery and is what I followed. Well worth that mod.

Greetings Vasco! Have a look here for anything you'd ever need to know about ANH Stunt Stormtroopers. Caleb has created an amazing index. And we have a list of makers here.

Looking VERY good James!!!

How is the pack mounted? I don't see shoulder straps. It looks really good. The whole thing is coming together nicely!! Excellent improvements.

Just a little.