TrooperTim

On the back of the knee, are you talking about where the two sides connect together? You can create an inner shim and larger outer finishing strip. That's what I did when I was helping Sarah (TK-9463) build her armor. We cut a lot off for mobility too. When you actually put all this stuff on, walk around your neighborhood and find what pinches. Your neighbors might think you're weird but it's good to fix armor bites before your first troop so it'll be more comfortable and enjoyable.

The hand guards were put on the wrong hand. That photo looks like it was horizontally flipped using photo editing software; or possibly shot from a very large mirror. It's good looking armor. Are we playing Where's Waldo?

I found this at 720p. Starts at 5:18. Can we contact Disney and request an HD video of just that scene. It's worth a shot, right?

I agree, any maker will fit you. Just focus on how screen accurate you want to be based on your budget. I've built a few different makes of armor and they all have the same build difficulty.

They are no longer being produced. I was lucky enough to get one when they were first offered. DoopyDo's new E-11's look great but I don't know how well they fit electronics.

Using Firefox. Displays IPS community at top. Booooooring.

Only two things I see odd: the blue ab buttons look a shade too light and the back plate has a rounded bottom edge. It's an excellent looking suit though. Sometimes it takes a while to get approved, but you will. I hope I can go to Comic Con some day!

Nice helmet to upgrade with. I think it looks fine. Were you building it to resemble a specific trooper in the films? You don't need to be a great painter. If you hand paint your helmet and it looks like decals (like what I did) you probably did it wrong.

Yeah, I have no idea what Sterlings were used in the films. I'd guess it would be incredibly difficult to find that info. KR is the initials of Sterling's Managing Director Kenton Redgrave. It was first put into use with the MkII. The MkIV serials started at KR5001 and ended around KR114000. In 1972 Sterling changed ownership and MKIVs were serialized with an S in honor of the new owner's wife.

I helped my squadmate finish her TK and she's 5'2. It looks fine on someone small; just takes trimming and resizing. It's not a big deal. Short stormtroopers get just as much love as tall ones. I got booted out of a couple pictures because everyone wanted a picture with the short one.

Spray paint has no flex so they will crack. I've also had a problem with it never fully drying. It just doesn't work.

If you want a list of Sterling SNs you can search for that online or buy The Guns of Dagenham book. I found out that hyperfirm has a real serial number on their E-11s when my cylinders fell off the mag well.

Exactly what Eric said. I used an awl to create the pilot holes and help the bit sink into the material being drilled. I say file the teeth just a touch more at the tops and bottoms.

It magically happens. Slow to put on and take off that's for sure. Might be able to make a video of the process. Hmm.

I don't know the measurements so I can't help you there. I view reference images and guess where things go. Because these suits were thrown together there are subtle variation of details for each trooper. I personally believe it's fine if you're off kilter, here or there, as long as it falls within the basic guidelines of where things should go. Look at references and do what you feel is right. It'll work out fine. ----

I build costumes and props by my lonesome too so you're not alone in doing that, ironic as that sounds. Just means your self reliant. It's no big deal to remove all the paint and redo it. Thinner will take the paint right off and not damage the plastic. Just make sure you don't use acetone. That stuff eats plastic.

As long as the clips are about 1 inch wide they'll be EIB/Centurion approved. I believe screen-accurate clips are 1 1/8" wide. Jesse sells really nice aluminum ones. As far as the tote, check what dimensions your airline allows then look for the armor bin. I've never flown my armor but I would imagine a hard plastic exterior would work best and be sure to pad the armor very well. There are a lot of tote options out there. Go with whatever works for you.

Any white primer should work fine. There is no paint I know of that damages abs plastic. Spray paint does contain acetone but it's such a low amount that it won't cause damage.

Yes, those are the tandy leather clips I posted about. The clips aren't the correct width so if you're going for super accuracy they won't work. 1 inch between holster and belt is about right. I've seen it vary so it's not set as far as I'm concerned. I carry my armor in a contico storage trunk from the container store (walmart may still sell them). The trunk has a lock hole so you can secure it with a combination lock. It'll only fit the body armor. I carry my helmet in a motorcycle bag. Some people use a hard cover golf trunk as well. Not sure if the dimensions would be allowed. You'll have to check with the airport. My back plate was angled like that as well. I adjust the top straps a bit and tightened the left side suspenders. It's not a big deal right now. You still have more work ahead. Keep going.

The first party games (Mario) are great, as is Goldeneye. You have to filter to the good stuff because there are many poorly developed third party games out there. I've played the system at friend's houses on several occasions but would never own one just because of the motion controls and the selection of games. I'm a traditional button controller and mouse/keyboard gamer. The Wii U doesn't impress me either. Nintendo lost me after the N64 and I stopped buying their products. However, I do like what companies are doing right now because every time a new technology is developed we're one step closer to creating a Holodeck.

Elder Scrolls! Battlefield 3! The new Hitman looks awesome but I cringed when the developers said there would be linear missions. I may try the new MMO but only if there's a free trial. I won't pay a monthly fee to play a game. By the way I watched Classic Game Room's footage of E3 and saw a video of a Stormtrooper, Scout, and a Boba walking around. Wonder who they were.

These helmets are supposed to be asymmetrical. They look weird if they're not. You're helmet's looking fine. Keep it going. The ear will cover that flare on the sides. On the right side back dome, boil a pan of water and dunk that corner into it for about 20 seconds then bend it. I've solved a few armor problems with boiling water. Doesn't hurt the plastic or gloss at all.

Jesse sells clips here on the forum, which I use and look great. Tandy Leather sells a Belt/Holster spring clip that's close in width. Banker's clips are close in width but a little too narrow. You could buy some aluminum strips off ebay and bend them to shape like Stukatrooper: ----

So the overlap is the front thigh seam? It doesn't matter where that lines up with the drop boxes. As long as it's located around the middle of your thigh it'll be fine. The left thigh's top and bottom could be lined up a little better; if they're glued just dremel them a bit. The right thigh boxes should be shifted down a little, if you're able to reposition them. I'm as skinny as a mannequin too so don't worry about the armor hanging oddly. FX is large by design.

Is the velcro industrial strength sticky, 2 inches wide, a few inches long, and attached vertically? It should stay put if this is the case. If not, I would suggest adding more velcro or change to a snap system.