TrooperTim

Having those raised seams on the undersuit looks a little strange to me but it's unlikely to be noticed by most people. As said before, GML discretion. I use the starter brand athletic underwear you can get in select retail stores. I spent something like $25 on my top and bottom. It's lasted just fine for the past 3 years and 100+ troops.

Lowes or Home Depot will carry "chicago" screws. If you ask for it by that name some people won't know what you're talking about. It's more commonly known as a "binding post screw." For example: http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053 ...and... http://www.lowes.com...oductId=3012649 I think I used the 1/2 inch ones. Depends how thick your canvas belt and leather straps are.

Congratulations, Clamps? (I want a nickname like that!) Nice work on your build. It's such a sense of accomplishment when it's finally done. Mostly. You'll probably find things to tweek as you wear it for extended periods of time.

It's great if you have the skills to make molds and vac form your own armor. It's an art, and there are some extremely talented people out there. Explore the RPF forum as well if you're into creating these types of things. I generally recommend purchasing a kit - since it's cheaper, faster, and more convenient.

Most of my scratches are on the ouside of my thighs - got scratched up from me lugging the stuff in my bin for 3 years without padding. Everything else has weathered well. ABS can take a lot of dings/cuts and still be fine. If you scratch it you'll loose that glossy coat and it may yellow. My back canister has yellowed on the edges cause I sanded those areas when I built my kit (repair job). If you every troop the Big Texas Toy Run (like toys for tots), watch out for a few overly zealous biker chick Star wars fans. I still feel dirty... Hi STEVE!

I absolutely love trooping with a dozen or more TKs. It's a sense of power and comradery. In my squad we usually have a wide variety of costumes represented at troops. Several reasons for this, but it can be beneficial to have that diversity. We reach out to more that way. If I'm in my TK, I could scare a kid to death. Commander Rex walks up to him and BAM, kid hugs his leg. TK numbers aren't dwindeling much, and I saw a lot of stormies at C6.

Trooping tends to cause it's own weathering. But maybe rub some newspapers on it... just a little bit I don't know much about this TK version, but it looks good. You might want to put foam on your left greave sniper plate to push it forward, otherwise you'll have it going up your thigh frequently. I also put some foam on the back of my thighs to keep the front close to my body.

Referencing the film is a sure bet and grab the bluray screenshots posted here. Like Wes said, reference build threads and read up in the tutorial section. The most difficult part is making the first cuts. Several kits have mold lines to help guide you; from there it's trimming it down to fit - or adding shims to extend the parts. If you haven't already, contact the UK garrison and find out if there are any armor parties planned nearby where you live. It helps to meet the people you'll be trooping with.

I used rectangle ceramic magnets from the hardware store to hold the inside areas down and clamps to hold the ends. The front thigh seams aren't entirely flush because of it, but I wasn't concerned too much. I used industrial strength velcro in lieu of magnets on some parts.

Thigh position looks fine. Yeah, my TK pecks are off too. Best way to fix cracks - ABS slurry. Melt chopped up abs bits in a small amount of acetone to a thick glue like consistency. I would only apply it to the inside of the piece. Make sure you let enough of the acetone evaporate (may take an hour or two) otherwise it'll eat the plastic too deap and mess up the exterior side. My shoulder straps cracked in half at C6. Most of the time I use velcro to keep them down and the strain of undoing that over time caught up.

Looks fantastic. I agree about the rivets and holster position. It's an easy fix but the existing holes in your canvas belt will still be there. Patch it up with some glue to keep it from fraying... or make a new belt (would look nicer). Depending if you're pursuing Centurion, elastic straps holding the shoulder straps down is more authentic. You can also velcro them to the back plate. Also, is your left sniper plate pop riveted on? Most likely neither of these issues would affect a 501st application, but would need to be tweaked for higher FISD standards if you choose to pursue them. Usually, troopers that are called 'cute' are of short stature. "I want a picture with the cute small one!" ...or incredibly good looking. But that's why we wear masks right? Don't worry, you'll have kiddos running away from you in tears before you know it. I mean that in the nicest possible way.

Here's what I did: I glued 3 snaps to the inside of the plastic ammo belt - 1 on each side and 1 in the middle. I didn't put the snap through the plastic. The plastic squares on the front are just decorative on my TK. I made 3 holes in the canvas belt and installed the snaps - they line up with the plastic ammo belt. I then glued 2 snaps to the middle of the ab plate, and placed 2 snaps in the middle on the canvas belt (facing the opposite way). The canvas belt and belt box are completely detachable. I usually wash my canvas belt once every year. I've never had my belt crack. If you're installing the snap on your belt, you'll probably use the hammer and anvil method (I don't think snap pliers will reach but give it a shot). Find a wood block or something hard to fill that belt space; doesn't have to completely fit. As long as you have something on the other side of that snap as you hammer, you don't need to worry about cracking.

I agree with Keith, push the ab/crotch higher if you can or adjust the straps so the chest sits a bit lower. Maybe do both. Not to go all TMI, but my cod does act as a cup. I used velcro to attach the butt and kidney on the sides with 2 elastic strips/snaps attached in the middle. I don't see any issue with the kidney. Yep, I have my boots velcroed to my shins so they act as one piece. One of the best mods I've done with my kit.

I use the 12 watt Aker. A LOT louder and clear. Definitely recommend it. I have my amp hanging from my neck with an elastic strap. I'm skinny so there's room in the chest. Didn't use the iCom; the push to talk pop was enough for me. I personally don't prefer the wireless setup because the receiver was difficult to place.

It will fit fine. Here's a comparison with my awesome friends and squad mates. Sarah wearing T/MC (5'3 ? Somewhere around there) - Me wearing AP (5'9) - Thomas wearing AP (6'3) ------------

Great job Kevin! I think we're the only 2 centurions in Star Garrison. Great to see you at Star Wars Fan Days. We make this look good!

My helmet camera remote fits perfectly in the drop box. When I'm not recording, I can put the drop box cover back on.

Look at screenshots from the film and build threads on this forum. Research where you're supposed to cut, then cut. Have no fear. Well, you can fear blades cause I cut my finger tip off - so BE CAREFUL! Building your TK is a goal you'll want to complete because of all the fun you're going to have. Good luck, start this build thread, and have at you!

AM armor is good and the parts are a little larger in size compared to other kits. One of my squad mates has AP armor and is 6'3 average build and it fits him fine. You may need to add side shims and adjust the strap setup a certain way but most any kit can be made to fit.

Supplies: Flat sheet of plastic or any material you prefer to use for the drop box covers Foam Sew on Velcro Sticky Velcro Glue (any brand CA glue works well) Rotary Tool (Dremel), Scissors, or Box Cutter Pencil Needle and Thread (optional) You can use a variety of materials for the covers. I used a spare sheet of ABS plastic provided from my armor kit. (1) Measure the length and width of the drop box. (2) Draw two rectangles on your drop box cover material from the measurements. (3) Cut out the covers. (4) Cut out 2 rectangles from 1/2 inch foam using the measurements. I used 1 inch thick foam and cut one rectangle then VERY CAREFULLY cut that vertically in half to make two 1/2 inch thick rectangles. (5) Loosely sew a piece of Velcro to the foam. If you sew too strong the foam will compress. You can glue the Velcro to the foam if you prefer. (6) Glue the foam to the covers. (7) Apply sticky Velcro to the inside of the drop boxes. (8) Place the covers in the boxes. Done!

Because Nomex gloves are basically two material types the hue will not be consistent over the entire glove and can give a 2-tone look. Is that what you're referring to? Yes, the plastic will melt a little at the edge. Sanding will clean that up. The Dremel cutting wheel and sanding wheel work great. Yes, a lot of troopers use canvas belts. They are screen-accurate and more comfortable than a plastic belt. There are a few here on the forums that sell canvas belts or you can make your own.

Being an artist, I have sculpting material and one of our squad mates is a master at fiberglass. We can attempt to sculpt the edge back, paint it white, and hit it with a rustoleum gloss coat. Before you drop money on a new thigh, lets try this. I want to prove that it can be done. Never say never!

Yes, at Dragon Con Brian and I were in the FISD group photo. I don't know if any other centurions were there. http://www.flickr.co...157627646198145 There are several in the UKG and they post lots of amazing photos. Now, back on topic of your approval...

Yeah from my understanding you need to clear EIB before Centurion but it's possible to be granted both at the same time. I think you got everything covered with your gear. Just need to hear Mason's decision. I'm 5'9 and weight 125 so you're in similar company. I can't gain weight to save my life. Would be awesome to see you at Fan Days and get a picture of both us.

Kidney plate looks correct side up. Cut the kidney plate straight, not slanted. This will allow the but plate to hang correctly from the kidney. I built my TK suit so that it's like a shell I slip into. It's cut to my body size but not form fitted to my body, if that makes sense. Looks like you're trying to cut the parts to form fit you, and I would suggest you not do this. As Brian said, you can add foam in places to fill in the gaps. Looks like you're about the right size like the actors who wore these in the films. The AM kit needs quite a bit of trimming but looks nice when it's done. Check out Pandatrooper's thread. He did a great job fitting AM armor to him. Sizing the pieces was the toughest part of the build for me. I redid my thighs a few times.