TrooperTim

I was lazy and did a variation on 1 - 2 - 3.

Hardware and craft stores will have everything you need to build armor. I became a friendly face at my local stores during my builds. I love down the road in Allen. A lot of troopers in this area. If you haven't, get in touch with "other Tim" here on FISD (Dark CMF). He can keep you in the loop with upcoming armor parties and such. Many NTX and 501st will be out at Dallas Comic Con end of May. It's one way to meet a lot of us in one location.

Great work! The Duchenne photos were taken by our squad mate Megan.

Yeah cut the back strips so they don't jab your backside. Make sure you can walk fairly comfortably. You'll find lots of adjustments to make after this weekend!

Great work man. Post a photo!

I cut more off on the sides on my shoulder straps. What you have cut would work. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/2077-a-new-hope-stunt-neckseal-03/ It's your helmet so do what looks best to you. I like this look and would paint the teeth taller: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/801-aadl6kcx/

Finish so you can march in the parade with us. It's looking great man.

Grab a pencil or some tape and mark it! Have no fear Scott! Look at the originals and just replicate it. See then do... read through other people's helmet builds... spend time in the tips/how-to sections. Helpful and useful threads are pinned at the top of each forum. Search bar, search bar. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14806-how-to-assembling-ata-abs-helmet-1

Mathius is correct. And there's always more than one way to accomplish it. I used snaps because I wanted to be able to detach the plastic and throw my belt in the washer if needed. Like I said, if you're wanting to do things similar to my setup, mine is different than most others. I followed others before me but modified it along the way to make it work the way I wanted. You have to find what works for YOU. There are tutorials and build threads you can look through to see how others have done it.

I'd go with the thicker strip for the outside. It'll look nicer. I don't think it matters though as far as requirements are concerned.

Torso armor position is a big part of the build, in my opinion. Make sure the ab/kidney/butt sit where you want them to. Once you have that set, then you can worry about thigh placement. If needed, you can resize your greaves (cut some off the bottom) and have them sit lower, for mobility, once you get the thighs set. You can cut there if you want but you don't have to. The finishing strip will cover up and hide that misalignment; no one will ever see it. On most troopers the top of the biceps are hidden under the shoulder bells. Placmenet of the biceps will depend on how you have them attached to the shoulder bells / forearms. Once you get your TK built you're going to go back and trim/adjust after you troop in it a few times. Especially after walking a parade. It's just how it is. Most people don't get things sized or adjusted perfectly once they finish. I resized my thighs TWICE after I finished my build, and my right greave is still messed up and sized a bit too small at the ankle (opens up frequently, as you've noticed) and I never decided to fix it. I would recommend keep using the masking tape for sizing. I think it's the best method to help you during this process.

Yall are hilariously awesome. If you read the CRL it states they are optional. But it's very much encouraged! This thread in the "Recruits" subforum explains the idea. It's an older thread but the info is still relavent. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/5-expert-infantryman-badge-eib-program-overview/

I replied to your PM. Yeah, a dark primer paint and gloss coat would work. You can give Glen's suggestions a try. Thinning out the mix might help. On the Testors, shake the bottle. I don't think it was mixed properly. There are brush strokes visible all over mine. I can offer to paint your helmet, if you want.

The CRL doesn't specify what grey, but most use a humberol or testors brand dark grey for the back canister. helmet teeth, tears, and traps. Several people including myself have used testors grey 1138.

They grey looks light. Are you using the same shade that you used to paint the helmet teeth?

Nice work on the ears. The helmet's looking good.

He can upgrade the handplates later, but yeah they'll get upgraded. Unless they're on order? Scott can get 501 and probably EIB first off the bat. I want to see him trooping with us.

Old Republic armor I believe is on the clonetrooper detachment. Sith Acolytes in the Sith detachment?

I sent ya a PM Scott

Yes, white plastic shims will be approvable. For any level. Matching shade will help with appearance. If the white shade is off you could paint the shim plastic.I recommend handicap signs since they are thicker and will last longer. Take a look at this person's setup. This is what I was talking about last time I saw you. This trooper uses side shims. Attach the shim on both insides of the ab/kidney. Cut that shim in half then put rivet/brads where they're supposed to be, on the shim plastic. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22925-tk-0393-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-ap/ Edit: Keep the rivet side (left) the way it's supposed to look. Shim the right using caulk/putty on the seam. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23383-tk-85254-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-capw83/

Yeah, I think French Blue will look better. You can grab some scrap plastic and paint both to test. See which one is closest to the originals when your test swatches dry: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/7-general-stormtrooper-reference/ I used Testors brand to paint mine. It's a mid-range blue. Forget which paint number it was. With Humbrol, do multiple thin coats. Be sure to shake the can really well for several minutes. Oil based paints take a long time to dry so you'll need some patience. You can carefully lightly sand small circles where you'll be painting so the paint can grab onto something.

Armor could be considered "easy" or "difficult" in terms of parts from the kit being mirrored. For example, some kits use identicle pieces, so you could skip a step of film research for that particular piece. Ultimately I belive difficulty is determined by how much work, time, and dedication you put into building it. You certainly can bother with T/MC. It's good armor. RS Props is the absolute best for ANH style and it's worth it if you want to strive for ultimate in accuracy. You're also paying for that screen accuracy.

There are several ways to accomplish the same goal. Find one that works for you. The fun of building! You can also contact ATA or another maker and ask if they offer a set of hero ears. Send me an email when you're available/off work - if my schedule allows, I'll try to stop by your place.

Since you're going Hero make sure your ear pieces have 3 bumps instead of 4. Three isn't required for base 501st, but it is for EIB and Cent. Double check; if you need new ears see if Tray can exchange them. I'm not sure what exactly comes in his kit.

Score and Snap is used for straight verticle or horizontal cuts. You'll need a ruler for that, and take several safety precautions. Maybe wear leather gloves. Anything with curves, use the scissors or dremel.