manxtrooper

Mine came with the lowered sniper plate. Did anyone that adjusted there's have any issue getting rid of the glue mark it left? As its super glue they're using its going to be difficult to get rid of. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If you let us know what country you're in we can help you further.<br><br> There's no reason to struggle to get decent armour. <br><br> But what ever you go for don't rush it, it's never worth it.<br><br> The advise you're being given is for very good reason and the reason is never to prevent you getting armour, we want to help you there but to do it right so you get great kit and don't regret it.

The helmet looks very clean (slightly sanitised) and sharp as expected with seeing the earlier photos. But it still looks good and the interior looks well finished.<br><br> I prefer rough and ready but can see many liking the looks of this, and I've seen a lot worse over the years.<br><br> From what I've just seen in these photos today it looks like for the lower price point guys got a complete bargain, well done <br><br> I think there's going to be lots of very happy and excited peeps

Hey welcome, looks like you're going to be busy <br><br> Good luck with your build I look forward to seeing how it progresses.

Hi, TK3422 requesting 501st access. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=8071&costumeID=124 Thanks

To sculpt and mold your own armour is both extremely hard work, time consuming and very costly. It's actually only really doing financially if you intend on selling kits off your molds, or you just have a warped sense of humour , but if intending on selling kits you'd have a lot of competition in that area.<br><br> That said if you want to go that route and have the skill and finances then go for it, there's no reason for it not to be 501st approvable if it's accurate enough,<br><br> Other than that if you're just doing this because you want a suit and wish to join the 501st, then purchasing one from one of the vetted sellers would be the better route to take.<br><br> Vetted sellers armour listed on this forum aren't the only 501st clearable suits but they're recognised as accurate, good value for money and also trust worthy with decent sales and after sales support.

Just get an old welders mask lens and cut it up, that should be as good as it gets for your concerns.<br><br> Plenty used this method in the past for 501st me included.

That does sound bad and they don't appear to be great in the communication department which I think is inexcusable regardless of workload. However did you try other communication options than email? They should respond to email but that's assuming receipt, spam filters can play a part, I'm not suggesting that's the issue at all but us always a potential factor. I would suggest anyone with communication issues, try other means such as Facebook and phone also.

Oh that does sound different then, symptoms wouldn't be delayed with a heat rash.<br><br> Just strange given that you're wearing inner gloves but maybe whatever reaction you're having assuming it's the latex is getting through.<br><br> Don't know what to suggest other than changing gloves for the Nomex as you say.

I think it sounds more like a heat rash, it's up to you to decide if it happening bothers you enough to change and indeed how severe the rash is and how long it takes to go.<br><br> It could be your gloves are too tight.

A buddy here in the UK does a lens which utilises the ear screws to attach. Really good lenses and two different shade options. Look up Imperial Supply Depot on Facebook if you're interested, I hope admin doesn't blast me to space dust for referencing a supplier.

Assuming it was, this is why I shudder to think of people using Lipo batteries under helmets and armour. Seriously it's worth the cost of just buying standard alkaline ones all the time rather than run such a risk. Lipos, convenient? Sure. Dangerous? Hell yes, especially without suitable protection circuits which many kit solutions don't have.

Hey, sure it's possible but personally I wouldn't bother.<br><br> Even if you get it all fitted which would be pretty straightforward, firstly you'd have a major battle with feedback which could be a consistent temperamental problem that'll just be a load of hassle.<br><br> The other issue is they're not very loud.<br><br> Personally I'd recommend the speaker under the chest armour solution (facing out). I personally use a go pro camera chest mount modified to fit my speaker setup.

So I'm about to start fitting out a new helmet so I thought I'd bring this topic back up.<br><br> The blower style fans everyone seems to be using weren't around when I fitted out my first helmet, so I'm planning on doing things differently this time and giving them a go.<br><br> I've been thinking about the best battery / fan combination for my setup as I'll already have 8 AA's in the lid for my romfx it doesn't leave much room.<br><br> What I've concluded for me is to still use 2 X 9v batts like I used in my first lid as they fit well with the 8 AA's as well in terms of space. I don't consider lithium batts as an option because if they go off in your face it's not funny, something all troopers should consider when choosing batteries. I'd much rather the inconvenience of space issues than losing my face.<br><br> So I'm thinking my setup will be 2 X 5v blower fans wired in series to present a 10v load and then wire up the 9v batteries in parallel so they both push out 9v but have twice the capacity of one. This means 9v going to a 10v fan setup with double the capacity of a single PP3 (9v battery).<br><br> It's all theoretical till I use it to get an idea of throughput and longevity but hopefully this info is of use to other troopers looking for a fan setup, if not already known as I appreciate it's pretty basic electronics theory.

Why don't you ask me on facebook John? Or perhaps on the ukg forum, jeez....

Well kudos to you not that you need it, it's a massive project to undertake and I seriously can't get my head around how you can recreate something so close to the original from scratch. I look forward to seeing what you have in store for the future.

Maybe I've been misinterpreted I'm not interested in seeing moulds, I agree they're not very interesting at all. Original sculpts and process of sculpting are interesting though, I presume the suit would have been sculpted and moulds taken from the sculpts, much like the original production, rather than straight sculpting of moulds.

That's such a shame as I feel it would just add to it all a little with it being more of a unique offering, with sculpting it from scratch. I presume you must have taken sizing queues from existing suits along the way? I can't get my head around getting the sizing so spot on just from image grabs. Totally genuinely interested by the way.

Ace thanks, out of interest how do you gauge size to be accurate? Please tell me you're going to do a latex uber accurate version?

I used to be on there alot and checked the links in the sticky above but the photos on RPF to do with it all seem to go to flickr homepage now, the old links must have been lost as they were yahoo hosted which must have been merged with flickr now. Just wondering if they've ever been shared as I'm genuinely interested in seeing early build up of the sculpts, much like we see a photo of Liz Moores sculpt.

Just wondering, will we ever see any TM original sculpts posted? I have to assume these must have been photographed during the sculpting stage.

I think your best solution would be a simple button activated audiable speaking clock to an ear piece or similar. It's hard enough as it is to see inside a trooper lid.

Anyone know the history of the latex guards? Why they were used instead of plastic ones? Were plastic ones made and disguarded?

Just a quick question, are the 501st rules that you can only produce armor legally if it's for personal use? Because that being the case, what that actually means and my interpretation of what's actually allowed and what everyone in the 501st conveniently ignores whilst slagging off certain recasters, is that you need to make your own costumes from scratch if you want to be legal. To make your own and then sell them is illegal, so is buying unlicensed products, although I believe the legality falls more on the seller than the buyer in this case. So that puts everyone who hasn't been licensed or won a court case, out for legal issues in my book.