manxtrooper

Mine came with the lowered sniper plate. Did anyone that adjusted there's have any issue getting rid of the glue mark it left? As its super glue they're using its going to be difficult to get rid of. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If you let us know what country you're in we can help you further.<br><br> There's no reason to struggle to get decent armour. <br><br> But what ever you go for don't rush it, it's never worth it.<br><br> The advise you're being given is for very good reason and the reason is never to prevent you getting armour, we want to help you there but to do it right so you get great kit and don't regret it.

The helmet looks very clean (slightly sanitised) and sharp as expected with seeing the earlier photos. But it still looks good and the interior looks well finished.<br><br> I prefer rough and ready but can see many liking the looks of this, and I've seen a lot worse over the years.<br><br> From what I've just seen in these photos today it looks like for the lower price point guys got a complete bargain, well done <br><br> I think there's going to be lots of very happy and excited peeps

Hey welcome, looks like you're going to be busy <br><br> Good luck with your build I look forward to seeing how it progresses.

Hi, TK3422 requesting 501st access. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=8071&costumeID=124 Thanks

To sculpt and mold your own armour is both extremely hard work, time consuming and very costly. It's actually only really doing financially if you intend on selling kits off your molds, or you just have a warped sense of humour , but if intending on selling kits you'd have a lot of competition in that area.<br><br> That said if you want to go that route and have the skill and finances then go for it, there's no reason for it not to be 501st approvable if it's accurate enough,<br><br> Other than that if you're just doing this because you want a suit and wish to join the 501st, then purchasing one from one of the vetted sellers would be the better route to take.<br><br> Vetted sellers armour listed on this forum aren't the only 501st clearable suits but they're recognised as accurate, good value for money and also trust worthy with decent sales and after sales support.

Just get an old welders mask lens and cut it up, that should be as good as it gets for your concerns.<br><br> Plenty used this method in the past for 501st me included.

That does sound bad and they don't appear to be great in the communication department which I think is inexcusable regardless of workload. However did you try other communication options than email? They should respond to email but that's assuming receipt, spam filters can play a part, I'm not suggesting that's the issue at all but us always a potential factor. I would suggest anyone with communication issues, try other means such as Facebook and phone also.

Oh that does sound different then, symptoms wouldn't be delayed with a heat rash.<br><br> Just strange given that you're wearing inner gloves but maybe whatever reaction you're having assuming it's the latex is getting through.<br><br> Don't know what to suggest other than changing gloves for the Nomex as you say.

I think it sounds more like a heat rash, it's up to you to decide if it happening bothers you enough to change and indeed how severe the rash is and how long it takes to go.<br><br> It could be your gloves are too tight.

A buddy here in the UK does a lens which utilises the ear screws to attach. Really good lenses and two different shade options. Look up Imperial Supply Depot on Facebook if you're interested, I hope admin doesn't blast me to space dust for referencing a supplier.

Assuming it was, this is why I shudder to think of people using Lipo batteries under helmets and armour. Seriously it's worth the cost of just buying standard alkaline ones all the time rather than run such a risk. Lipos, convenient? Sure. Dangerous? Hell yes, especially without suitable protection circuits which many kit solutions don't have.

Hey, sure it's possible but personally I wouldn't bother.<br><br> Even if you get it all fitted which would be pretty straightforward, firstly you'd have a major battle with feedback which could be a consistent temperamental problem that'll just be a load of hassle.<br><br> The other issue is they're not very loud.<br><br> Personally I'd recommend the speaker under the chest armour solution (facing out). I personally use a go pro camera chest mount modified to fit my speaker setup.

So I'm about to start fitting out a new helmet so I thought I'd bring this topic back up.<br><br> The blower style fans everyone seems to be using weren't around when I fitted out my first helmet, so I'm planning on doing things differently this time and giving them a go.<br><br> I've been thinking about the best battery / fan combination for my setup as I'll already have 8 AA's in the lid for my romfx it doesn't leave much room.<br><br> What I've concluded for me is to still use 2 X 9v batts like I used in my first lid as they fit well with the 8 AA's as well in terms of space. I don't consider lithium batts as an option because if they go off in your face it's not funny, something all troopers should consider when choosing batteries. I'd much rather the inconvenience of space issues than losing my face.<br><br> So I'm thinking my setup will be 2 X 5v blower fans wired in series to present a 10v load and then wire up the 9v batteries in parallel so they both push out 9v but have twice the capacity of one. This means 9v going to a 10v fan setup with double the capacity of a single PP3 (9v battery).<br><br> It's all theoretical till I use it to get an idea of throughput and longevity but hopefully this info is of use to other troopers looking for a fan setup, if not already known as I appreciate it's pretty basic electronics theory.

Why don't you ask me on facebook John? Or perhaps on the ukg forum, jeez....