themaninthesuitcase

Pretty much, the web team are aware and are working on getting it fixed.

I seem to recall there was a bit of a faff to get it working after the forum upgrade last year, maybe they can remember what they did then?

Thanks for the hard work Eric (and anyone who's also working on this)

Thanks for the hard work chaps.

Welcome back mark, I have a feeling you were one of my first contacts in the UKG. Yeah that chart is now the standard, though gloss or satin black seems to be fine either way. I suppose I could add the gloss that but the real reason I did the new chart was to remove the old darker blues on the old bill grams as that was confusing people.

Account deleted as requested.

Account deleted as requested.

What is making the helmet unweildy is probably the fact its fibreglass and so heavy. An ABS helmet will be significantly lighter and nicer to wear.

I use a balaclava, partly as it absorbs the sweat partly as it hides the fleshy parts from kids looking up under the bucket and helps maintain the illusion that we’re actual stormstroopers.

If you take the ABS paste route little at a time if the best route. If you apply to much at a time you will cause a lot of warping to the main helmet.

Just sent him a message, will see if he gets back to me. edit: they are already on it.

I know our TLJ Phasma was given special dispensation to troop last weekend, do want me to give him a prod?

The cut off a la DD is probably just to make moulding easier. As for the other two, could be down to differences between minor variations of the sterling.

The black series helmet is based on the Rogue One style is it not? If so, no it would not pass basic approval.

I used pop rivets, but I recently found that single cap rivets are probably more accurate. What would be stronger I don't know, it's probably down to how well they are set. Belt assembled by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr This shows mine, I think I used 4x10mm rivets if not they are 4x8. So 3/16 x 3/8 ish in imperial. You can probably go bigger or smaller in the diameter but the length needs to be more or less spot on or the cap won't fit over them. Take a rivet, add a washer (of the nominal size of the rivet so 4mm in my case), through the belt, through the plastic and then another washer. Pop the rivet and glue on the cap. Solid as a rock and the washers will prevent pull through. It will also help if you can get a good clean hole in the canvas for them, I used a rotary punch to do mine and got an almost perfect clean hole in the belt. A bad hole is more likely to fray and pull out.

I think I saw people talking about this on the Anovos group a while ago. I don't recall there being any real quality difference (there may well be but it wasn't mentioned) but people really didn't want the Tandy branding on the visible bases.

The shop on shapeways is Suitcase Props ie me

Looks like it to me.

Congratulations @The5thHorseman!

Your best bet to get started is probably to make sure you’re happy with the pairing. If you look at an “ideal shin” shape there’s a “C” side and an “S” some armours have this some don’t and it is a little subtle. If yours does try match it to the correct sides. There is a diagram around that shows better than I can explain but I don’t have it to hand. Once that’s done trim the front ridge to fit the cover strips and align the pairs at the top. From there you have more of a sporting chance of figuring out the rears. From what I can see you’ll need to trim them and quite possibly need to hot water shape them too. The bottom edges will almost certainly need tidying up as well.

I used 1" upholstery foam but for some bits I've cut it down to about 1/2" thick. All of my foam is attached by velcro, E6000'd to the armour contact cement to the foam. This means if I ever get bigger/smaller or it gets gross I can change it easily. side note: I saw a video in a Joannes last week, OMG I wish those existed here. It's like a cave of wonders!

I believe not all sections count towards that 5.

Aye, that one with the arrow is as good as it gets though. There was a few counters of “it might be a on set repair which as you know we don’t allow for”.

I’m in favour of the shoulder rivets. There was a thread by CFO when Tim was DCO where I spent a fair while finding evidence. There’s not a lot but there’s a few frames where I believe they are visible. Sadly most shots of TKs are either the wrong angle, too far away or too much motion.

I actually sewed mine, was quite time consuming sat in front of the machine do all 18ish straps. I guess I am lucky as I only use 1" as well and there's been no issues with "pull". Maybe the best course is start with elastic, but if there are areas that you can already tell will need pulling in or show they need it later in use swap to webbing.