themaninthesuitcase

Hi, Our server was getting slammed by "something" so I've had to enable cloudflare protections. This seems to have the side effect of taking out tapatalk. I did disable it after 12 hours and it lasted about 5 minutes before the sever started to be overwhelmed again. I am out for a lot of this evening but once home I'll turn it back off again and see how we get on.

Started working on adjusting the forearms to TLJ cuts. I started by trying to "iron" them with a very hot spoon but this wasn't going to work on the compound curve. Did help on a thinner bit though. With that knowledge I knew I was going to be splicing in new plastic and learning about ABS slurry, I marked both we some tape to get some nice straight lines to cut out the wavy bit. That cut out I went through my off cuts found a piece the right thickness and big enough. I also cut some joining plates for behind. I started buy attaching the backing plates with some ABS slurry, avoiding glue so there's no glue line. Then I attached the filler peices. I didn't do a great job clamping the far corner which lifted slightly so will need more sanding. I then started to fill the seams with more slurry. I am not overly good at this and have made a small mess. I definitely did a better job on one side to the other. I have sanded this back this morning, found some low spots, so have refilled those again. I also added a little bit of paste to the back to thicken out where I am sanding to try avoid any accidents. ABS filling is definitely an art vs typical fillers as it's drying from the second you remove it from the jar. Manging how liquid, or not, how much you have on the tool (I used a mix of coffee stirrers and a brush) and how big an area to do at once is a tough balancing act. So far going okay so will just iterate on this until I am happy with the flatness. It's easy to add a little more, but adding too much will encourage over sanding. I also have glued up a bunch of stuff: Shins are done, thigh main seam is done, wating for fitting for the inner shoulders, and biceps are all started as well. The shoulder bells where a pain to line up the lips. After trying various ways to measure it I found eye-balling it actually did it very quickly. Once marked I compared both a few different ways until I was happy they lined up. I have also transferred the mark to the under side for when I add the mounting points. Biceps have a small issue: The length of seam at the cut line is a good 4-5mm off. I've aligned "correctly" based on where the clip will go, the top is okay but the bottom is no good. But I've just looked at reference and these are upside down. so the bottom is good, top is the issue. Either way I think my best bet is to blend the cut down about 3-3cm into the larger part to hide the bad alignment. I also have a belt, some webbing and clips so will be looking to start fitting the strapping to the thighs soon.

You can source the bits for do it yourself, I have had these in a watch list for years UK links but I am sure US eBay will have the same stuff once you know what to get neoprene https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373396396391?var=642416596195 wasn't sure what thickness though, 3-5mm, but I'd need to reference hunt. rubber ribbing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402300779926?var=672255164758 Then you'd need some black 50mm/2" webbing a clip and a couple of Chicago screws iirc.

Helmet looks like my black series to me but as you'll need a TFA that's a nice thing to have for a display at home or a con. They can be updated to clear if you want but it's a lot of work. I think the partial yoke is to help reinforce the join between the various parts.

No we don't, which is why we need to request it. For clarity the text of the CRL is not changing, only the image. Essentially we need 4 images, front rear top and detail to re-make the CRL image (https://crls.501st.com/images/2/5/1/4/2/251424340f3b08127ce5c426526e5ccaa80ed2f0-tfatkbackyoke.png) but with an updated part. This is the sort of front plate I am referring to, but as you can see, I am still building this one. Doesn't have to be the same brand, but just not with the Rams horn style cut we have in the CRL.

We can only use the photos we have, and only fix the errors we know are there. If you feel there is an issue with a CRL let us know. Tell us what is wrong and why you think so and we can look to fix it. Normally updating images is the hardest part as we need someone to build it then send us the image before we can update it.

We had a trooper asking about these recently. IMO they are the same as the Jedha Sandtrooper - Rogue One with a crystal patrol duty pack. Looking at the CRL it's probably weathered close to what this screen cap is showing. So IMO there's not really a need for a 2nd CRL, there already is one. The MEPD DL agreed with me, I think a simple rename to be more generic would do it but @Hask might know better.

Greetings troopers, It's that time of year where we need to pay our bills. Last year we covered 14 months to get us a little way into the term so there was no sudden rush just after the elections. Well that 14 months is almost up so we now need your help to cover the detachments costs. The breakdown of costs are as follows: Hosting in backups - $34.56 monthly after taxes Email - Send Grid - $19.95 monthly after taxes Invision v5 Licence - $199 Members owed from previous term - $75 This brings our fundraising goal to $928.12 for 12 months. We'd like to ask for a $5 donation from members, but any value no matter how small will be appreciated. Please send your donation via PayPal friends and family to [email protected]. Please make sure you mention your forum name so we can update your profile. All members who donate will also have the 2026 supporter banner added to their profile, as with the earlier email costs fundraiser.

this is where I see it.

It’s the default image format on iOS. It’s a lot smaller for better quality I gather. However even almost 10 years later software support is not great. I’ve also used https://freeimage.host for images and it seems okay so far.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/themaninthesuitcase/28372543485/in/album-72157671098462536/ is this any help in the back plate?

We don’t have enough storage to offer much attachment storage. You’ll need to use something like Imgur. If you just want to delete something looks like from the profile menu pick my attachments, select the image and a pop up to delete should show up.

Welcome back trooper!

Welcome to the FISD!

A small fabric sample came, plenty enough for 2-3 chest plates. I got this based on some images I've seen of what others appear to be using. Image on some a black fabric, with some white paper for contrast. Does this look about right? I'll back it with some black cloth, and then attach it behind the pills.

As time allows I've been working on a 3D moddled version of the rails for the forearms that allow for the correct hex head screw. I used the DN part as a guide for size and replicated them bar the 1 bump where the screw will go. I don't plan to go whole hog and do a full length part that goes under the wrist box but who knows what the future holds. I know this isn't the right screw but it's the only one I had to hand that was the right size. I'll order some plan hex heads later. On first testing I realised the offset alignment block means that on one side it fits will and on the other it creates a bad fit. So I created 2 mirrored rails to fit on the respective forearm. I got to learn some fun Fusion tricks with parameters so I only have 1 model, and just change between L and R and it updates the alignment and the engraving to ensure I know which is which. I have also been progressing on the armour and have had some deliveries to cover but I'll do that in a different post.

OOOF that's a big bed. The TD looks great, and is probably a nice piece to learn on. Nothing too exotic to discourage you. You've clearly thought a lot about printability as well. So many models don't and then need tons of support and look bad. I'd rather print 5 parts and glue them than deal with loads of support. After you mentioned it before I've printed a SE-44C in ASA. It's really good, even the super cheap stuff prints well (enough anyway). The parts sand nicely compare to PLA and PETG and also I was able to make a slurry to fix a bit on one part where the support didn't quite work as well as hoped. Also seems for the most part support comes off pretty cleanly and easily.

Greetings troopers, Now the term is in full swing we are looking to update some of the CRLs and need you to help us with this. On all of our First Order CRLs you will see an image like this: The "rams horns" are not accurate as we now know and there are now more accurate armors out there. We would like to update all, or at least as many as we can with the correct full fronted one. Not only is this more accurate but it can stop any confusion with members building who think that they may need to remove the front plate. We will not be changing the CRL wording for those kits where this is not possible, only the image to better guide troopers. We would need images to cover : TK - Stormtrooper: The Force Awakens TK - Stormtrooper: The Last Jedi The above two be the same image. TK - Stormtrooper: The Last Jedi Executioner TK - Captain Phasma: The Force Awakens TK - Captain Phasma: The Last Jedi Phasma can also be the same image. Thank you for your assistance.

Welcome to the FISD eh.

Thanks for finding that scan Glen, though it was bothering me today so I hunted around all of the places it could be and eventually found it in a folder on the shelf. Having seen that scan of the Anovos one, I'll scan this so if anything goes wrong applying I can reproduce bits.

Two weekends in a row? outrageous. Started by addressing last weeks mistake. I filed out the holes as I described, which worked well on one but the other side drifted slightly so fitting the bar was impossible. I ended up making some little 3D printed donuts I taped in place and then used a step bit and went to 5mm. This is a little sloppy but allows me to align how I need to. A dab of slow setting glue when I apply will stop them moving with time. Next up, there was a fun delivery this week. The full works from @R2Dan After a quick test fit of my SC-44C, which was perfect spacing but needs shorter screws I moved on to fitting the holster to the leg. Having learnt to be more carful on the Kit Kats the 1st job was to prep the template. The mount from R2Dan wasn't a perfect fit so I positioned it where it looked central and marked the holes. I then marked the hole centres. Once the template was taped on I very very carefully aligned the part to where it will go and after a couple of adjustments was happy so centre marked the holes and drilled with a brad point. Used the nicer ones this time which where through very cleanly. Much happier with this. I will probably also reinforce the leg slightly at the hole point, which means slightly longer screws. Will Need to see what the leg room is like. This means the legs are all now ready for gluing up the 1st seams. I need to check I have all the clamps and magnets to hand and I can get going. (legs swapped side to side so the fall into each other not over, I didn't drill the holster in the middle) Next up I got on with removing the remaining excess from the forearm parts, again going for a minimal return for comfort, room, and flexibility. The wrists I have tried to remove as much return as possible. My hands BARELY fit so I need to tape them up and see if I need to do something clever to help here. Biceps got the same treatment as everything else. Also probably now ready for the main seam to be glued up. The overlap will wait for sizing later down the line. Shoulder bell lips also all ready for glue now, removed the lip for a clean edge. The foam draft trim came so I also fitted that to the spats per Ardeshirs video. I also couldn't resist adding the velcro to have something that sort of looks done. The glued clip end I'll wait for once I have the shins and boots assembled to be able to check positioning. The foam trim works great and really does help kit it all lined up well. Finally I did a trimming pass on the chest plate. I've left more return here as it's not really going to need to flex much, but I know some reshaping will probably be needed. As you can see I also removed the pill backing to allow for some fabric. I've left a small lip on the rear to give a nice clean definition, but could go a little further if needed. I need to order some fabric for the backing. I understand this should be an aeromesh? I can't find any good reference or documentation on this only a few photos from submissions. I was sure if I should go for this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122155896996?var=424700660017 which is a basic mesh, or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323052345596?var=515553086677 which is a "spacer" which has a thin foam and backing which might be a bit more opaque. I am also considering the basic mesh with a plan cotton/canvas 2nd later to make it opaque. I also can't seem to find the sticker sheet for the armour, which is a little worrying as if so I am going to have to remake them all. And while I have a circuit, that's not really what I was hoping to have to do.

Welcome to the FISD! Make sure to start a troop log so we can follow your deployments https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/276-trooper-missions-and-deployment/

Finally been able to work on this again. Come up with a plan to work bottom up. This builds confidence as I go and introduces things like ABS slurry slowly as I work up. I started on the spats. I have finish sanded the trim lines to 120G now, probably need to do a 2nd pass at 240. I plan to make these as Ardeshir does in his video with the Velcro away from the slip end. To give these maximum flex I've gone pretty tight on the return edge, and have some foam trim coming to lock into the shin grooves. I also went pretty tight on the shin returns. Enough to have a bit of depth but not enough to dig in to anything like on my OT. I think there's about 3/4 mm of thickness, not quite as small as it looks here. Obligatory try on with completely inappropriate trousers This shows the spat return well I also drilled for the Kit Kats, and independently learned the template is rubbish. I carefully measured and marked and aligned the templates before drilling. And found I'd aligned it a bit too far left. The left side is right on the seam line, and should be in a little. To fix this I plan to slightly slot the holes in 2mm and then use a 3D printed reinforcement to fix the final position. I've drawn on some guide lines that will allow me to move them in slowly. I'll probably start at 1mm (marked is 2mm) and see how that looks 1st. Next up will be the thighs. Again I'll trim the return reasonably close and drill for the holster. I've also trimmed and sanded a few other bits bit these will get more attentions I work up the armour.

Congratulations on the helmet looks awesome! I've started using ASA on a blaster build. Didn't know I could vapor smooth but good to know, I'll try some slurry to fill a few gaps and issues!

I am bad at staying hydrated but the day before a troop I do make an extra point to keep drinking water, then on the day just keep topped off on each lids off break. I probably should drink more but having to de-kit for the loo is always a faff