themaninthesuitcase

As another idea, here is how mine is setup: I can only just get my head in doing the TK twist but once in it is a nice firm fit and stays where I put it. The grey pads are "tactical" pads available from the usual suspect pretty cheaply. I did replace the provided Velcro on most as it had terrible adhesive. I use 25mm Velcro brand squares for those. The round one doesn't really do much other than set the hight for my eyes, the 4 pads on the side are what holds things in place. At the front I have the fans tucked up inside the cheeks so they are well out of the way. The power switches you can see at the back of the helmet where I can reach them in armour, and the battery is a USB power bank I fit between the fans at the front on a bit of Velcro. At one point I used a Bluetooth microphone which you can see the Velcro for. I stopped using this as at larger conventions the wireless interference caused too many issues.

I have a pretty big head and manage with a standard sized helmet. From what you are saying it sounds more like you need to adjust the fit rather than the size. Can you show a picture of the inside?

Always good to have a retirement plan ?

The RS and CFO helmets and suits are cast from production made originals. I am not privy to how exactly but I expect they used silicone moulding techniques. So why do everyone else sculpt from scratch? Well screen used suits are very rare in private hands. Most of what is left is probably in the Lucas Film archives. It’s also incredibly expensive, the last helmet for sale was in the region of $120,000 from memory. The the final nail is these are all at best 40 years old and so will probably be quite fragile by now. So the chances of getting hold is something that some one would allow to be cast is effectively 0 at this point.

Welcome to FISD trooper! Do make sure you check out the EIB program and also have a nose around the new areas once available. We also have a Facebook group you can join, for FISD members only, https://www.facebook.com/groups/1728216427199180

I can make an estimate but your best bet is to makes something that has the correct relative size for you. It's not something I will be doing, as much as I'd love an Enoch there is a long queue! Anything produced and share would be warmly welcomed I am sure. Gloves look okay to me, maybe a little bright. A second opinion might be a good idea. Probably wants a littler wearing in and weathering. We cannot use some one else's photography. We have to provide our own. For the fabric, I don't think it's a corduroy in the show, for basic I suspect it would be fine but some thing closer would be best fore higher levels, as I think the gaps between rows wouldn't meet "must be proportion to official references."

The DN TD is a pretty hefty lump of resin so I am going to use the Jessie M replacement printed on my nice new Bambu P1S. I did try print the outer initially but the white eSun PETG doesn't want to play nice with the new printer and so the support failed. However the black eSun PETG prints wonderfully, so I made a start on the tube. I initially went for strength as this needs to troop and so will get knocked. 4 perimeters, 15% cubic, and I completely forgot to check the estimated weight. 260g Whilst I am sure this would be less when finished compared to the resin cast it was a bit on the heavy side. So I reprinted it at 2 perimeters, 5% "cubic support" which came out at 87g, 66% saved! Cubic support is a clever pattern that uses no infill initially and then slowly builds to the stated percentage. This left the part almost hollow. It seems up to the job, I should have added an extra bottom layer or two as the default was 3 which flexed a lot. Though when glued you get 1.2mm which is probably fine. Worst case it breaks and I can make a new one somewhere in the middle. My printer wasn't tall enough to do the 1 shot part, so I needed to glue the 2 sections together. The model has a small hole in each end, which is perfect for a short section of 1.75mm filament. Once a short section was glued into 1 side I then used some thick CA to join them forever. As mentioned there was some flex to the mating faces so I used a reasonable amount of thick CA and spun it to spread it over as much surface as possible. This should give a nice solid join, though I want to try source some water thin to try wick in the edges just in case. The end result is a perfectly aligned tube, I even aligned the seam. I'll get some new white soon and print the holder. Then I need to source a close white paint match.

Let's try this again. Trying to 3D print a suit didn't work out so I made use of the May 4th sale this year and got a DN kit. Helmet: Denuo Novo TLJ Standard Helmet Armour: Denuo Novo TLJ Neck Seal: Denuo Novo Gloves: Imperial Boots Boots: Imperial Boots The fact I have IB boots and gloves, shows how long I have had them as they rebranded and then stopped selling the gloves! I picked the standard helmet over the premier, partly due to cost but also to save the weight one my neck. I know the premier is slightly ,more accurate but I also want to be able to wear it all day. I still have some decisions to make. I am definitely aiming for EIB, but centurion means a rubber gaskets so that will need to be looked into. Glory to the First Order!

Looks like you are off to a great start!

Sounds like it's worth trying, but I agree you might want to start with a few smaller pieces. Then do a bit of a torture test to see what issues you will face in use.

Welcome to the FISD. Lots of traders, and there was a patch run late last year so there should be a few in circulation still. Good hunting.

Welcome to the FISD, glad you made it over

Done

Yes, those two when brightened it's gold. The older images it looked white. I'll adjust the colour.

Honestly I see white in that photo.

I have some on mine, if you are worried pop some masking tape on and draw your proposed cut line on and get an armourer to sign off on it. So long as you follow reference you shouldn’t have any issues.

Welcome to the FISD Luke. You have a fun road ahead of you!

I agree but not sure it need to be codified in the CRL, and certainly not under level 3. There is always a certain amount of "use your eyes" with these and the danger is by saying the border is lighter, rather than the subtle difference we see, which may even be a lighting trick due the bias of the fabric, you get a stark difference which looks wrong. At this point if there are no issues with the text, though please do not consider this closed, I am open to submissions for the CRL images. We will need the "hero" images at the top and then appropriate images of each component separately. If you feel this is you, please do reach out directly and we can organise and get this CRL live.

Bonsoir Frédéric et bienvenu au FISD.

My new printer arrives tomorrow so I'll finally be wanting to print out the last few parts for this. I should do an update on where I am. Anything I can print in resin is now done. Had a bit of trouble with warping of thinner parts but got there in the end. I ended up printing that part on my Prusa in PETG and then using Resin as a filler to get a nice surface, and a flat one! I also went back to CAD and added locating pins, well holes for a bit of filament, to align the cylinders, the Hengstler greeble and the magazine mount block. There are matching holes on the Hengstler and Magazine body. This helps ensure that everything all lines up and there is no mistakes with the glue. This is more or less where I am with the parts, though I need to reprint the hub with the new location holes in it. Once my be printer is setup and calibrated I'll run off what's left and get to my favourite part....painting ? Electronics wise, mistakes where made. But so was progress. Looks great doesn't it. Nope I had the amplifier board rotated 180° so it stuck out the side! It does however fit inside the blaster which is nice: Wiring it up will be a nightmare but it will fit, even if I have to solder the wiring directly but I am hoping to avoid that. As I needed to order new boards I decided to check a few things. Like the red LEDs seemed REALLY bright, that's because I was running them at about 150%. Some maths later and a test board I went with ~25%. To the eye it's hard to tell vs 100%, and has the benefit of using a lot less battery. New boards have been ordered, and being made by robots at vast expense. I did it all by hand last time and it was a faff as the parts are tiny. And a demo of the FX: 1st trigger to fire, 2nd trigger is basically a mode switch. By default it loads up "safe" as we're not meant to use FX when trooping. Pull the 2nd trigger to toggle and the weapon is live. You can fire or hold the mode switch to enter the obligatory Disco mode. I am tempted to add a way to change disco tunes, but thats just being daft at this point. Barrel heat up is also something I have considered adding. The last "trigger" is actually going to be the front handle, and atm all it does is enable or disable the front torch. Everything is driven by the software, the switches are read in and than I act on those, so I can change things later. The other thing to note is power. There are 2 switches, one is for safety the other is convenience. The first you see me switch completely disconnects the battery from everything so if something s going wrong I can pull of the end cap which is held on with magnets and flip it and it's all dead. When the main power is on it connects the battery to a USB charging and limiting board, that goes to a 3.3v to 5v step up board and then finally on to the main circuit. Here a 2nd switch is in place, mounted in the magazine. This just cuts the power to the main board and lights. This just means I can flip it whilst trooping when on breaks to save some power.

Dunning–Kruger is a hell of a drug.

I have updated the kama, now over skirt as its more than just a kama. I have also updated the belt to remove any reference to specific widths and have made it relative. Open to feedback and thoughts on if things are at the right levels for clearance.

I would be careful when using a metal backing like this, I am sort of amazed thats working as it looks like a dead short to me. Whilst the voltages are low here, a short will happily dump as much current as the batteries can send. Best case, you drain the batteries quickly, less best case it melts something, burns you or worse. A custom PCB here is an option, but a tad on the extra side for most. A layer of clear plastic or tape is probably all you need, though some Vero board painted white would probably be almost as good reflective wise.

Try Imperial Warfighters, see if they can help you out. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063820369262 I thought they'd closed doors, but apparently I misremembered.

On that time scale you're going to struggle, local vendors aren't with us anymore to my knowledge. Best bet will be to get hunting for some appropriate black Chelsea boots and crack out the white leather paint. That said I'll have a word with the local armoury team, see if I can find a lead. The way they work is they do "runs". They next open on May 17th until 24th, and then close orders again. They then spend the next few weeks manufacturing everything on that run. This means they can benefit from economies of scale, on made to order products or having to hold a lot of expensive stock they might never sell.