themaninthesuitcase

Those non R1 helmets look spot on for anovos to me. The sharp tears and general shape do it for me. The ears look off but that might be the angle or heavy weathering.

I guess I should show some progress! Essentially the main body is all ready for final prime and paint. All the small detail parts I want to reprint on my Elegoo Mars resin printer but need to finish sorting the spare room for it first. The last furniture should arrive tomorrow so I may be able to start next week with any luck. I was running it in the conservatory but the light levels in there are not just far too high to be using a UV curing product. I just need to find some curtains for that room! Took a while to get to this point as I am having to learn how to sand. Sound stupid but knowing what grits to use and when to change is actually harder than it sounds. Also I think I have a habit of going too course which doesn't really do as much other than leave deep scratches. I think I am going to make 150 my "heavy" grit for PLA work from now on, the 120 just was too aggressive.

Welcome to the FISD Adam, Sounds like you're off to a good start, not a huge number of ESB troopers about. Make sure you pay attention to the differences, you can't just blindly follow ANH. Off the top of my head other than the helmet paint scheme, hand guards you also will need to get the correct holster on the right hip with loops. If you haven't yet done so please head over to the UK Garrison and start a WIP thread there. This is a part of the clearance process for us and so getting started early helps. The armourer team are also very knowledgeable and will give good guidance when needed. Not sure where you are based but I am sure that I'll see you around once the world reopens. Chris.

The upgrade is complete! A few issues needed overcoming, annoyingly I suspect these could have been avoided if I had done an extruder calibration before I printed the upgrade parts. I was only printing 94% of the material I was asking for so everything is a shade small, meaning holes are a tad loose. Managed to work round them all and it's working so I'll leave alone for now but I'll need to reprint a fair amount of parts and rebuild at some point. The part fan is getting a bit loud which may force my hand at some point, so I'll start getting some of the parts I need in stock as time allows. Loving the new quiet cooling fan as well as the flex bed and filament sensor. Really should have done this when it first came out. Also swapped to the 0.6mm nozzle which should speed stuff up a reasonable amount, First on the print bed was a size test for the helmet. Basically take a slice of the helmet around the eyes and print it and see if it will fit or not. Printing on 0.35mm layers, fast with 5% infill to really smash them out. Don't need to be pretty just exist so I can try them on.

Some crimp tools have a sheering tool on them, I used that.

Give it a few minutes and it should not be archived.

Account deleted as requested.

He replied quickly to me, need to get a test print knocked out so I can get some measurements to him.

For the visors, has anyone used Ople before? https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/682238330/ople-props-first-order-stormtrooper?ref=hp_rf-1&cns=1 Reviews look good and images seem to look right as well.

Steve, this really isn’t the venue. If you want to take this issue further please feel free to do so, just not on this thread as I would like it to remain about the recasting issue not how any particular unit is dealing with it.

Back plate is coming along nicely. There is 1 issue I need to fix however. As I scaled in only 2 planes, the O in OII is oval. I have a plan to fix this but I'll come to that another time. Also one thing I would do differently next time. As it is I cut things neatly into a grid essentially: Next time I will cut more like "a brick wall". Not only should this make things stronger as there are less long straight cracks, it will also make lining stuff up easier as you can use the overlap part as a reference. I would still use fibreglass to reinforce things but it wouldn't need to work as hard. Also one back part (top row above) had some big over hangs using a lot of support, almost as much as the part. So I have split one into 2 to allow me to re position it reducing the support need but adding 1 more seam to glue and weld.

I am going to agree, this thread is not about any specific Garrisons or groups. Please keep the discussion to the subject at hand please.

Welcome to the FISD!

Welcome to the FISD!

And we're back in acton! Rebuilt with a Titanium heat break to help prevent future mishaps. Not surprised the old one broke, it took a lot of ignorance to get the old nozzle out of the heat block. The other half of the heat sink is very stuck in the heat sink, not sure how I'll get that out but it's not a big deal if I can't. For reference E3D are good people, and were very helpful with my screw ups. First print was meant to be the end of one of the yoke arms but the supports just were not sticking. Turns out the bed seems to have developed a bit of a warp, but nothing a couple of hours calibrating couldn't fix but blew out the available print time for the day. Back on with the back/yoke tomorrow. My Mk2.5S comes Monday so I'll probably swap to getting the upgrade parts for that once I get the back parts cranked out and swap out the warped bed.

Parts arrived from E3D today, complete new hot end kit and a titanium heat break. Will be rebuilding tomorrow with a 0.4 nozzle as my Prusa 2.5S upgrade kit is arriving Monday and I'll need to print the parts for that which need a 0.4. Once those are done I will reattempt to swap to the 0.6 I also received some shiny faux leather cycle shorts for the under suit, £8 after a discount though post was about £3. Hoping these are OKd by my GML, and I hope they will be fine for Lvl2+

Sounds awesome

I wonder if I could fit a normally closed Microswitch in the hinge block or something.

Okay some more progress on the torch which is totally worth all this effort I am sure..... At least it's a distraction from breaking the 3D printer. So I ordered 2 of these torches from ebay that looked small enough. In practice they are too long and only just about fit down the available space, after a big mod to Germain's file to make it. First job was to cut one open and see what I had to work with. I measured down the inside of the barrel to see where I could cut. Once inside I could pull the inner section out of the outer metal barrel and found it's just a 5mm LED in a holder that runs off 3 1.5 LR44 batteries. Sadly the leads on the LED are too short to solder to with out melting the holder but a standard 5mm LED fits the holes just fine. The first torch I destroyed modified I cut very short, and a bit sloppy. These have a zoom function where pushed in is wide angle and pulled out is focused. The location of the cut was perfect for the LED mount but left no options for the focus. With that in mind I cut the second a fair amount longer, about 25mm from the chromed ring. This seems to be about perfect. I cut the inner down to the minimum for easy access when soldering. I also sourced some VERY bright LEDs, so bright that to run off a 9V I should be using a 1 watt resistor (I didn't but it was short bursts) and it projected a spot on the wall across the room. The cool thing about them is they are 3.2-4.5V so I can run one right off the 3.7V LiPo without any resistors. They also are projecting LEDs as I think they are meant to make torches with. I have a stash of JST RCY connectors that are nice and easy to connect. They may be a bit big for some of the other connections but here I think it will be perfect, Though I have some smaller ones too if that doesn't work. The plan is to solder a short connector direct to the LED with heat shrink to prevent shorts. This will then connect to another wire in the under barrel which will run down the length, through a hole into the main barrel and then through to the core of the blaster where I can wire in the switch and the power as required. I'll probably wait until I get the soldering iron out to weld the next armour sections before I do this work.

I’ve ordered a whole new hot end to speed things up. Also picked up a replacement heat break to repair the original hot end in case this happens in future. E3D are only about 30ish miles away and normally I’d just go and pick it up as I’m in a hurry but the Rona means no customer collections.

Printer down I was swapping to a 0.6 nozzle to speed the printing up (looks like about a 30% saving time wise) and broke the heat break. Ordering parts but who knows when they will arrive. And it was going so well.

So today I took this: And turned it into this: This was mostly just a case of sanding all the seams with 120 to get them flat. Then super gluing as carefully as I could, 1 or 2 could be better but even then noting serious. Some Superglue accelerator really helped on the first few sections, it speeds up the set so you can let go but it does mean you need to be accurate lining stuff up. At this point I couldn't resist a fit test. Not in an under suit but I am really happy with the size, it just about perfect. Once that was done I went along and "welded" all the seams on the back. This involves using a soldering iron to melt in some additional PLA+ to weld the parts together. The tip is a pretty chunky 4mm ish one. My iron takes standard 900M tips so I bough a cheap pack on eBay with some big tips in. Just make sure you remove the pre-tinning solder first. Fortunately I practised on some scrap sections first as one is covered in solder. The jist is melt some extra filament into the seam and then sort of press it in. It's a bit fiddly but like anything gets easier and neater as you go. It's not perfect but I'm getting better at it. I was running my iron at 400C which seemed to work well. Before: After: I used some of my sizing test parts as a practice so I went and stress tested one. Flexing "out" as it trying to get it on the part flexes quite a long way, far further than I'll need. No cracks or nasty sounds heard. Flex it "in" towards you and it fails catastrophically very quickly. However the welds hold, the breaks shot off down a filament line and de-laminated. Pretty happy with this result. I'll sand the seam with some 120 to remove the sharp edges too. I am still thinking I'll run some fibre glass along them as well. The Last think I want is the ab plate to split into 2 or more bits trying to get into it. I also assembled the rear TD plate and did the same to that. There's a small lip at the bottom. I assume to hold the plate on but I suspect I'll end up removing it, leaving the top hook, and just use velcro or something along those lines.

@The5thHorseman generously designed some SE-44Cs for 3D printing and provided them to us for personal use. Make sure you pick the right one for you build.

@The5thHorseman generously designed some F-11D for 3D printing and provided them to us for personal use. Make sure you pick the right one for you build. TLJ/TROS F-11Ds will require an additional Picatinny rail on the front as shown here: This will need to be sourced separately.

So yesterday the good people of Federal Express brought me some stuff, after I paid the taxes of course. A nice pair of Trooper boots in size clown. I also got the gloves from them. I was exactly half way between L and XL so went XL so I can wear a liner to wick away the sweat and not have to put on wet gloves after lunch. Which is the worst. They are a tiny bit large but worst case I'll get a L pair later. Also used some masking tape to check the hand plates for size. Seems good, though I think the position is off.