Twnbrother

I have installed all the boxes with electronics and the piece behind the hovi tips. The hovi piece needs to be screw in closer to the face.... I will fix that. The vocoder is on to show how it fits. i need to wire and install the fans, ear mic and speakers. Please give suggestions.... this time I went with black padding instead of white.... I like it better. The pad is an old one from my ACH.

This is a shot of one of the nape boxes. It contains the 12V to 7.4V step down convertor. I took it out of the rubber case to make it smaller. the other nape box has the Aker Amp.

I put the bucket together with the with 6-32 screws and 1/8" hex spacer nuts instead of rivets.

I sprayed the inside of the helmet with the plastidip. I also sprayed the boxes.... i then worked on the pieces behind the hovi tips. I used the thin metal sheeting instead of the styrene. Next I trimmed out the vocoder. Used Aarons tip on the thin metal. I also added the thin metal to the sides of the vocoder extending them out to the corners of the frown. I also E6000 the mic in place and painted.

Thanks. I will post more updates tonight or tomorrow

The cheek boxes are a perfect fit for the ICOMM and hearing assist. in order to secure the electronic boards I used another hex spacers. As a note, make sure you buy several different sizes when you order... the spacers and screws are cheaper than the cost of shipping. You will also need to mark and drill the locations where the peripheral items will connect to the boards. I inserted a thin piece of styrene to work as a way to hold the lid in place. The small hole in the top of the styrene is for the screw. test fit and secure.

For the fans I removed the cover and drilled a hole for the screw. A corresponding hole will need to also be drilled in the cover. Test fit... I realized a little later on that I had the fans connected at different angles. The left mount needed to be moved. So I built up a spot with the JB weld.... easy fix.

Next I went to work on the ear speaker housing. i used 1/4" spacers on the inside. This will let me secure them to the helmet. I drilled out the holes for the socket head screws and cut a piece of cloth to cover the 40mm speaker. I used 24 screws for each side... spaced at approximately 6mm apart. i secured the screws and cloth with some E6000. As a note a few of the screws wound up right on the 1/4" spacers. Easy fix... I cut the screws down. I marked and drilled the location for the spacers. Secured the ear piece to the helmet.

Photo Bucket it back online this morning... so here are some updates. First please read Aaron's thread on his install ideas http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39111-tk-helmet-interior-assembly-thread/ I used several of his techniques. First I stripped the helmet clean of the plastidip and placed spacers using Aaron's idea. I also installed extra spacers to hold the fans I wanted to install the ear speaker piece without have to worry about putting on the outside ears. So I used the JB weld compound to hold the washer and nut to the outside ear pieces. i repurposed two of my old boxes to use in the channel of the nape of the neck. i also installed the ear mics and held in place with some E6000.

I am starting my second kit from Aaron http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37770-tk-helmet-interior-kit/page-1. The first one was a beta and it was lots of fun. The first kit I installed the parts with magnets and velcro so I could easily move it around while working on it. I posted the pics in Aarons development thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32601-tk-helmet-interior-parts/page-1. This time around I will be using the spacers and JB Weld to make everything permanent, but removable. Photo Bucket's site it down for maintenance so I will post pics of the progress shortly.

Awesome work on this build

Impressive build

I am reading some stuff that calls the two prisms in the M38 a Porro abee Prism. This might help in the research. http://www.edmundoptics.com/optics/prisms/specialty-prisms/experimental-grade-specialty-prisms/3561/?print=Screen A Porro-Abbe prism is sometimes called a double right angle prism. Two of them are used to make an erecting system for telescopes and some models of binoculars. One of these prisms can be used to bend an image 90° and rotate a vertical image horizontally.

I was looking at surplusshed.com. They had some prisms, but I will have to pull mine out to see if it's a match.

Brian, I you need a M38 scope or scope parts I can mail you one. I have been looking for the right angle prisms and cant find them

Impressive. Great work

Your attention to detail is just amazing. Keep inspiring us Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jaw dropping AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I really like what you did with the magazine and magazine well.

WOW.... I am continually impressed. I picked up the muzzle from Aaron and the complete kit from Derrek.... now I just gotta get the time to build. thanks for posting your build. I will be using it as the perfect template.

Go with Phoenix Props..... awesome blaster

Thanks for the info. I have 7 5/8" - 7 3/4" melon and mine fits fine in the Anovos Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the size comparison to the Anovos helmet? Is the Anovos larger or smaller Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aaron I am continually impressed by your work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

following closely.... good work