Twnbrother

Thanks Tino... I wanted it to look old and worn. A piece of equipment that could have been used on several different blasters over the years. Vallejo pigments are super easy to work with.. just takes practice to get the amount you want. The scratches are made from Vallejo chipping compound. The neat part of this is it give some texture to the paint by wetting just a little, but not chipping it. Then you chip the areas you want. Plus if you screw up, just wipe it off and start again. Nothing is set until you use the varnish.

Thanks for the kind comments. This E-11 is really fun to build

I added rust and carbon pigments and then finished with a top coat of Vallejo Metal varnish and dusted with real dirt. I washed the dirt off. Thought it looked a little too dull.

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Paint complete

This morning I started on the power cylinders. I used parts from Phoenix props, Tino kits and metalmite cylinders from Fieldmarshall. i sanded the bottom flush, trimmed off the resin screws and dremelled the cylinders out. I removed the center pieces the rear section of Phoenix props kit. Leaving only the "fuses" I took the red wire from Tjays kit and placed between the fuses. Drilled small holes in the fuse to have a spot to glue the wire. I added a little solder to the red wire. Here is a pic next to Fieldmarshalls power cylinder. now I just need to paint

Thanks Tino. I had smaller boards, but the sounds was not quite right. I am keeping my fingers crossed as well

I stated to prep the cylinder to hold the sounds cards. I originally were gonna place them in the Hengslter (easy fit, hard to hide wires). I realized the sound card was too "tall". To remedy I removed the speaker jst connector and soldered directly to the pins. Them bent them at an angle. next I encased the cards in heat shrink. Made sure I labeled which was stun and blast. To make it fit better I dremeled flat spaces on the barrel. This will make it easy to mount and slide in the barrel.

Thanks I know very little about electronics. Lots of google and burned electronics.

Double post

I next started on routing the power to the sounds boards and lights. I made another cast of the barrel chamber and started carving. I made space for two 3 wire junction boxes. Ones is power in from the pistol grip and the other is power out. I also installed a RGB LED next I poured resin on top of it to sealed and secure the components. Make sure you cover the bulb and connections with mold making compound. Otherwise you have a solid brick attached to 10mm aluminium "barrel" and connect to wires from pistol grip.

I worked on the sounds for the blaster. I used the ICD1820 sound board with PAM8403 amp chip to push sounds through CVS 3108 speaker i had to trim the boards to fit into the barrel. I also removed the momentary buttons and mic after recording the sound. After removing items I cut the board. These boards come with two jumpers. Remove them. They slide off. Put one jumper one the last two pins as shown. This lets the blaster sounds repeat when the trigger is held back. Power is connected here. I then cut the remaking pins and pushed the jumper pins over. Then covered with hot glue to protect the contact pins from touching. Works like a charm. Need one board for each sound: blaster and stun.

I finished wiring the rotary switch. coveres the hole with green stuff. Barely see any of the repairs.

Next I soldered the RBG LED for the front and rear lights. Bottom of the picture is all the parts. The top is a completed light. I took the barrel from Aaron and cast the camber section. I did this so I could mount an RBG LED. I drilled a hole for the LED and then some channels for the wires. I did two 90 degree bends so the wire would protrude to the front. I also cut the green wire off. When this is finished I will cover everything with green stuff. I then soldered the wires for future connection

I wired in the momentary switch. Works great. I glued the wires down to keep them organized. The wire coming from the momentary switch routed. I would suggest using another color wire than red blue or black so that when you are soldering the rotary switch you do not get confused.

Ted I thought about it... but since it is never seen I opted not to carve it out. Plus, knowing my luck, I would have messed it up lol.

I just glued the end cap ring on with E6000. I broke it while trimming. Nothing a little zap a gap can't fix. i let it dry for 24 hours and then placed the welding.... otherwise known as green stuff to hide the gap.

I just checked and it was a 1" forstner bit. The flat bottom bit is key. A regular bit may punch through the other side

I installed 3 M4 blind rivets for the mag well. I opted to use the mag fro swpropman, but I filled the base and extractor hole with resin. Best of both worlds. Two of the M4 blind rivets are screwed in. The third is for stability as I placed a magnet to hold the magazine in place where the screw would have been. You can see the screw head where the extractor pin hole was.

I really like the two part pistol grip. I wish it was resin as the kit is plastic. I should hold as it is pretty thick I am worried about the folding stock as well. It is plastic, so time will tell. If I breaks I can replace it with the plastic for the aluminium one coming soon from Fieldmarshall. I am also installing the mag well so that it can be replaced if it breaks. I really really really like the durability of the mag and mag well from Derek... but the detail of the plastic one from Swpropman is better. I am still torn on which one to install.

I also built the folding stock from swpropman. I did change out his hollow aluminium pins for the ones from T-Jays finishing kit. i used the folding stock mount piece from Ddays kit. I drilled/taped a hole through the resin and aluminium. I the glued the piece down with locktite plastic epoxy. I then screwed in srcew to hold till dry. Once dry removed the screw, taped off the inside and filled with resin. Should be a strong connection.

Here Ian a pic of the grip frame with the rotary switch underneath. There is just a small space to cover with green stuff. Also showing how the wires route from the battery holder. I opted to put the momentary switch for the trigger in front of the hammer. I installed the hammer using Tino's technique.

With this build I want to add lights and sounds... so the question is where to store the batteries? I opted to use Swpropmans trigger group and pistol grip. This is a two piece item where the pistol grip is screwed in place like the original. I hollowed out the grip frame to fit a two AAA battery holder. Fits perfectly. I then used a forstner bit to drill out a flat bottom hole for the 3 position rotary switch from Tino's kit. To connect the grip frame to the aluminum tube I used M3 blind rivets. You could use M3/M4 standoffs with counter sunk flat head screws... just difficult to mount. This will allow you to screw the grip frame on from the outside.Having the ability to remove the grip frame is the "just in case" something happens to the electronic/wiring. The bolt slides easily over the rivet heads. A pic inside the tube to see the low profile of the M3 blind rivets

The magazine I opted to use is from swpropman. I liked it because it extended less from the magazine well. His magazines come hollow, but I prefer solide resin. So I cut it to the lenght I wanted andfilled it with resin. I painted this gunmetal and then a layer of chipping compound. Then a final coat of black. Chipped away after applying water to give it the weathered metal look. Then added some rust and carbon pigments. Sealed with satin varnish, but thinking about using metal varnish instead.

Thanks Brian. The E-11 is so much fun. Addictive, especially the scope. I can't wait to put your together with the OLED.