Twnbrother

I trimmed out the piece on the end of the butt cap that houses the D-Ring. I then wrapped some electrical tape around the portion of the D-Ring that will be hidden. This is the D-Ring from T-Jays awesome E11 finishing kit. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/. Hopefully the electrical tape will keep down on "clanking noise".

Tonight I decided to work a little more on the folding stock by removing the excess resin where the butt plate folds. This took alot longer than I expected. I first drilled holes as a guide. Next I took my dremel and slowly burred out the hole. I took the smallest bit I had and set the dremel on the lowest setting because the space here is pretty small. Lastly I used some small woodworking tools that I got on Amazon for $6.37. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3ZH1D4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 With a little sanding and fine detailing this should be good to go.

T-Jay when I got home I went ahead and made another front site post. I did this with my Dremel and the metal grinding bit. You start out by trimming the screw threads off one side making it flat. Repeat for the other side. Once both sides are flat just trim off flat the remaining screw threads. Then you will need to check how thin your blade is.... grind the sides equally until your desired thickness. Lastly I put the angle on the blade. Before you cut this off the rod check against your DD front site to make sure you have the right height to the blade.... its easy to trim more screw threads off if needed. Once your satisfied, cut the rod with enough threads remaining to screw into your front site post housing.

I did a little more work on the counter last night with the goal of having a reset button that actually pushed. I built the push button from extra plastic from the D94-S counter housing. I chiseled a spot for the push button inside the Hengslter resin counter and drilled a hole for a spring. I trimmed out a divider between the spring and the numbers. I cut the opening for the push button with the Dremel diamond tip cutter. The plexiglass melted so it was slow going... cut a little, clean the bit, start again. I then trimmed the edges. Final trimming will be done after everything is glued together. The button works!!!!

Thanks T-Jay. The texture was created by rolling a metal punch over the green stuff. The punch came in a set of Black and Decker tool bits. Its the first time I have used that punch and I've had it for over 15 years. I looked at the front site guard (Derrek's new mold) and saw exactly where the texture ends... so I sanded mine to match. I need to make a site pin for my brothers build. When I do I will post how I did it on this thread. On my numbers I forgot to mention how I keep them straight. I cut the plastic inner rod to length and added a simple piece of packing tape on the back side of the numbers. You cant beat the price for that counter... just hope it looks good in the end.

I used your idea on my DD. Yours turned out much better... your dovetails look machined. Great job

Yesterday my counter numbers arrived. I bought them off amazon for $6.64. Its called the D94-S counter. http://www.amazon.com/0-999999-Resettable-Mechanical-Pulling-Counter/dp/B00880S4FC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1435080451&sr=8-4&keywords=6+digit+counter&pebp=1435080458476&perid=0BZE5CD9Y11JJV8C9MJB The counter is very easy to take apart. The numbers have a piece of plastic protruding from each one that I trimmed off. There is also an extra piece of white plastic between the numbers that I removed. I sanded the face of the resin counter down and then dug out a space for the numbers to fit. The counter comes with the round beveled window that looks great. The counter piece of plastic is the same width of the resin Hengslter but its a little long. The long ends will need to be trimmed down. I cut a push button from the plastic housing of the counter... I just need to cut the hole in the face plate and insert... [/url] Lots of work to finish this piece.

I began working on the front site post by the using outstanding information provided by Aaron in this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30899-front-sight-mod-on-a-doopy-doos-resin-kit-added-realism/ and I used Tino's idea of adding texture to the front site post housing. The front site pin was made from an "Allthread plated 6-32" It comes in one foot pieces from Lowes for $1.09. You could make 10-12 front sites from one piece.

impressive, most impressive.

Tino, you were right about the metal piece. I relooked the reference photo and corrected my error. Thank you. . I also did a little more work to the height of the bolt. I wanted it to match closely to ejection port height. I added another Lego . This was longer than other two so the charging handle could rest on it. I also sanded the bottom to match the curve of the grey tube barrel. I had to round the end off by the charging handle so it would fit smoothly. I also drilled a divot in the bottom of the charging handle so it could fit on the Lego. I gotta get the metal stripe back just a little when I glue it down. Keep the comments and suggestions coming

The bolt pieces just didn't look right after looking at reference photos. I changed the metal piece and rounded off the "bolt" legos to give it a more round appearance.

Tonight I worked on the bolt. I have been thinking of a way to replace the stripe on the bolt with metal.. something the right width and depth that was malleable. Well today at work I was outside near an old building and saw five to six thin pieces of metal on the ground. I picked it up and said this might work. I looked around to see where they came from... it was the metal fins from an AC grate. First I trimmed off the old stripe, cut the metal piece, and scraped a channel around the ejection port to seat the piece of metal. Next I went to work on the charging handle and filling in the space behind the charging handle. I drew lines to place an additional piece of metal at the back of the bolt. To raise the bolt up I used two lego pieces. I dont know if I got the depth right. If this looks good to you guys, I will fill in the gaps in green stuff to make it look smooth when completed. Please give comments on ways to improve.. Thanks

Tonight I continued to work on the folding stock. I drilled out the center of the resin bolt that connects to the aluminium rod that I put in earlier. In reference photos this looks like a square bolt with a center hole. The pic below shows what I am talking about... small detail, but I wanted to add it. Next I drilled out the holes on the bottom of the barrel. I first made a pilot hole to remain centered. I then worked on connecting the folding stock to the barrel. I trimmed off the nubs at the rotating point and drilled a hole for screws. Next I inserted the grey tube and templated a spot to be removed This location would eventually house a retaining screw. It fits nice a snug keeping the folding stock tight to the barrel.

I would contact them first. The customer service was pretty friendly when I emailed with them.

I ordered the Doopydoos kit about two to three weeks ago. I comes in and out of stock pretty quick. Make sure you get on their email alert... I missed it my first try, but got it the second time.

Tino, I did what you suggested and tapped the lipstick tube in further. I also sanded the lipstick tube so that when I paint it will stick better.

Thanks Tino. I will make those suggestions when I get home tonight. Thanks for sharing the reference photos.... great resource.

Next some work on the piece (buffer?) that the spring goes around right before it touches the bolt carrier. My wife "donated" a lipstick tube and my kids gave me a magic marker. I took the end cap off the magic marker and tapped it into the lipstick tube with a rubber mallet. Next I took this and tapped it into the "barrel" provided by T-Jay. I think I need to trim down the length. Was is the correct length for this part?

Next I started a little work on the folding stock. I drilled out the holes and carved out the back to fit the metal rod from T-Jay. Now I just gotta focus on the rest of the folding stock... lots to do on this piece. I'm trying to figure out if I want to replace any of the connectors... time to start looking at Lowe's for ideas.

When I got home tonight I took Gazmosis suggestion and trimmed out the magazine well to better seat the magazine. i also drilled out the screw on the side to fit the one from T-Jays kit. I also drilled two holes (counter sunk the heads) to secure the magazine well to the barrel of the E11. While doing this I also drilled a third hole to secure the magazine to the magazine well... this pulls the magazine in tight to get the perfect fit. I just realized that I can't screw in the mag and screw the magazine well to the barrel. Oops.

Gazmosis thanks for the info on the depth. I will go ahead and trim out more of the magazine well and post a new pic.

When I got home today the mailman had delivered my DoopyDoos full kit and the E11 finishing kit from T-Jay (thanks T-Jay awesome stuff). I washed everything in warm soapy water to remove any release agent. I received a replacement magazine from Gazmosis (great magazine... so much better than DoopyDoos) earlier this week so I wanted to start on this first. I used my dremel to cut away the excess resin in the magazine well. You gotta be careful as the walls will get thin. After rough cutting I used a polishing bit to smooth everything out. You gotta look carefully inside the magazine well to ensure you do not leave any burrs. A small burr will prevent the magazine from seating.

Amazing work. What did you use to cut the scope in three pieces. I'm wanting to copy your outstanding build. I just ordered the monocular on Amazon.

Amazing work. What did you use to cut the scope in three pieces. I'm wanting to copy your outstanding build. I just ordered the monocular on Amazon.