justjoseph63

VERY nice, Paul, and GREAT job on those fixes! As Glen mentioned, the UKG decal will have to be removed (at least temporarily) . Since you have to get kitted up for a replacement photo, please take one of the back as well as the white elastic strap on your right shoulder has come undone and needs to be re-tied. Thanks!!

The reason I needed this was for a display I am working on... an exact copy of the TK bucket interior as shown in the first photo. It's an unusual shape (pic 2) which probably hasn't been made in years. I ordered a "replica" from a seller on FB which looked to be fairly close and somewhat thick(ish) (pic 3). This is what I received. It appears to be "molded" in one piece, but is definitely a fan-made sculpt using thin craft (EVA) foam. Although very flexible, the details are way too rough looking (first pic below) and at 5mm thick way too thin (second pic below) to use for this project. Still on the hunt if anyone knows a source.

Welcome to the boards, Terry! Dave makes a GREAT product.. I've been trooping in AM armor for over 7 years and still no splits, cracks or yellowing. Be sure ask if you have any questions (no matter how small) and I look forward to seeing your progress!

There were MANY issues with screen used armor components not all being the same... not just helmets! Some Detachments (like the MEPD for instance) require for higher levels that the armor be modeled after one of the particular Sandies seen in the film(s), down to the scuffs and weathering. However, we at the FISD aim for the "ideal" trooper... think "fresh from the Imperial Training Academy". Whatever customizations people do with their armor after approval is up to them.. we are not the "armor police", lol, but the CRLs are based on the quintessential TK.

Welcome to the FISD, Ryan! AP makes a great kit, so now the fun begins! You may have realized that there will be a lot of research, and my biggest suggestion would be to start a build thread. This way, you can (and should) ask all the questions you want to in one place. It's also important to get familiar with how to post photos here. This is especially helpful when you have an issue so that we can better tailor our responses. Hopefully you will be aiming for higher levels of approval (this is easier to do during your build than after) and always feel free to hit us up for advice.. especially before cutting or gluing. There are links to my tutorials under my avatar at the bottom which will help, but if there is anything you need specifically, just ask! Here are a few other links that will help: ANH Stunt build threads Posting photos Looking forward to seeing your build progress, and

If built correctly you should have no issues with Basic approval. There are a few sets of DA props armor that have made it to higher levels, but my big issue with them is that because of the way this vendor vaccu-forms this particular component (photo 1) the large ab-button plate is designed to sit inside the raised area around it (2nd photo) as opposed to having a rim that sits on top of the raised area as seen on screen used armor.. Will it affect Basic 501st approval? Probably not... that depends on your GML, but it will need to be fixed or replaced by another vendor for higher levels. DA props Reference images We have seen this issue corrected by adding a solid back plate and using ABS paste** around the edge.. then sanding/polishing it. ** Just make sure that the plate and the ABS paste is made from the scraps from the original kit, as colors can be different. Back plate added and ABS paste applied. End product!

Way to go Steve, and welcome to the ranks! You have set the bar pretty darned high for 3D printed armor and I hope to see your submission for EI when you get the chance. If I could (yet again) make one small recommendation it would be to grab your Dremel and trim off the ridge on the bottom of the sniper knee. Should take about 5 minutes and would look much better. Reference images R1 CRL photo Now that you have your official TK ID, I would suggest getting Legion Access here on the FISD. Doing this will give you access to a lot of areas on our site that you cannot currently see, and will be needed if when you apply for higher levels. This may take a day or so, but the link can be found here.

The Pugmans were used in ESB. I assume what they are calling a "Hero" blaster was the standard ANH E-11. Here are 2 of my builds that show some of the differences: ANH E-11 ESB E-11

GREAT job on that TD fix, Paul!

Auction to raise funds for the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation (JDRF) is now underway! Up for grabs is a custom built 3D printed ANH E-11 with lots of bells and whistles. More information, photos and how to bid can be found here. Please be aware that due to postal regulations that it cannot be shipped outside the U.S. Auction ends on Dec. 4th. Thanks for looking, and happy bidding!

Spectacular job on this build, Chris! Just a couple of items if I may: 1. The wrist openings on your forearms are quite a bit larger than they should be. The rear opening could be reduced a bit as well, and the overall look should be more tapered. Your GML may call you out on this, as the CRL states that the costume is "...proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size". In theory, it should be just large enough to get your hand through. Reference images 2. Although it is a fairly recent addition to the CRL for Basic approval, the requirement for the TD now includes "The white control panel raised rib pad faces the rear". and yours is sitting a bit high. Reference images Otherwise, this is possibly the best Pre Approval submission I have seen to date. DANGED fine work on this, sir, and I see those EI and Centurion badges under you name in the near future!

This is a dynamite looking set of armor, Steve,and although your goal is only Basic approval, with a few upgrades you could be the first trooper with 3D printed armor to reach EI! I can't begin to wonder how much time you spent sanding and filling those pesky print lines, but the end result is truly spectacular, sir. If I could make a few suggestions, the first would be is that I agree with Reese about the calves. It's difficult to tell from the photos how large your calves actually are, but there seems to be quite a bit of room on the sides (photo 2). The ones seen in the film had more of a taper rather than being so large at the top, making them look more like those seen on a Clonetrooper. Reference images Just an FYI, andI'm sure it will not affect approval at Basic, but the width of the hexagon on the sniper knee looks quite a bit wider than those seen onscreen. The designer of the files that this was printed from obviously has a keen eye for detail, but it needs some need tweaking. As seen below the indented line around the TD plate has curved corners, and the raised "O" does not have those little projectiles on the top/bottom and is more of a rounder shape rather than an oblong. The positioning of the "buttons" that face the rear? You NAILED it! Reference image Overall I would give this build a 9.5, Steve. I'm danged gad to see that someone has stepped up to the plate and finally shown us that 3D armor has truly earned it's place. Well done, sir!

Just a quick FYI.. Shawn (CrookKnight) sold all his files and designs for HWT, Sandie, Space packs etc. to Dave at AM a few years ago. Dave is now making all of them. The outside design is pretty straightforward, but the insert tube is open to interpretation. Since no one will ever see it you can take some "artistic license" and have a bit of fun. I used all kinds of odd bits and bobs in mine:

Seventy thousand dollars for armor that isn't even close to Centurion level and a modified Hasbro blaster seen for a few minutes on a TV show. Good God. Someone went into this knowing exactly what they were going to do afterward. "How to become a Stormtrooper for Fun and Profit"

I certainly hope one of those chapters includes submitting this cracking set of armor for Expert Infantry level, Paul! You put your heart and soul into this build... and it shows. Side note: I'm envious as all heck of your E-11!

I need a specific style of gray bucket padding for an upcoming project, but after looking at literally hundreds online I have had no luck finding anything even close. It may be out of production or is made for a specific type of helmet (bicycle, motorcycle, ATV etc.) for all I know, but I thought it couldn't hurt to ask if anyone has any resources. Thanks!

It's not too late to join the ranks of the HWTs, Lukas, (hint hint, lol). Although our armor is not quite as weathered as a Sandie's, we wear pauldrons, back packs and ammo pouches exactly like they do. We also get to carry big freakin' weapons. Here are 2 of mine that I use, depending on the length of the troop (the T-21 is quite heavy).

What was the cost/production time on this, Gary?

Congrats on your kit, Matt! There's nothing quite like opening up a BBB and taking in that "new armor" aroma, lol. GREAT idea starting your own build thread, and know that we are here to help at every step. If I could add to Glen's advice, it would be to ask as many questions as you want to and post up lots of photos. Posting up pics is especially important when you have an issue, and when in doubt, ask before cutting/gluing. Looking forward to following your progress!

Thanks for all the kind words.. . Since we have never done an auction here before we (the Staff) are working on the details/logistics, so it will be a week or so before I can get that up and running.

OK folks, so here it is (at last). I got all the pieces attached and secured and 95% of the weathering complete. Still a few tiny areas I want to tweak, but overall this is it. NOW, before anyone mentions the lack of black paint on many of the actual screws, prongs, spring and such, I left these as-is to show that they had been added. Whoever ends up with this is more than welcome to cover them with some flat black but that will be their choice. As for general weathering I am a minimalist. Yeah, I did add more "brass" on the Hengstler than normal, but I wanted it to pop a little. The lighting was not too great, so here is a better pic of the front. Yes, the word OFF and the arrow on the end of the magazine are a bit wonky. I had to use a Dremel to inscribe it and this was after 5 Mountain Dews. I really gotta' cut down on the caffeine. Also a close-up of the rear power cylinder setup. Front view of the scope/cylinders/Hengstler Front sight close-up OK, so if you remember a few posts back I was concerned that since I wanted to use a real wire spring that the inside circumference of the rear of the shroud was too tight. I was determined not to let this beat me, so I ended up going with a hole saw bit (Pic 1). I used an extension bit to get down inside, but there was a lot of the PVC pipe inside in the far end that just shredded, so I used some elongated needle nose pliers to get out the bits and it worked a charm. HOWEVER, the inside walls were... well let's just say chewed up badly, so I CA glued sandpaper to the hole bit and went to town on it. It worked. Not perfectly smooth inside, but very close and not noticeable. Took me about 3 hours. Here is the end result, and I'm pretty pleased. End cap Hengstler** Grip **As I mentioned earlier, I used my leftover curved Lexan lens from an old build. Note: The lens appears to be fogged under the 0 and 5, but that is a reflection. And finally the folding stock. I was worried that since I was using a real vintage Sterling one that it wouldn't line up correctly. But, that was unfounded. Bryan's 3D files are so accurate that it fit like a glove with no modifications! And that's it, folks! This build was both challenging and fun, and I hope you enjoyed it as much I enjoyed doing it. It will be going up for auction in the next day or so to raise funds for the JDRF, and I hope it makes money for a great cause. If you would like to see any detail pics that are not shown or have any questions, just ask here in this thread. Last but certainly not least, I would like to give a BIG shout out to Bryan @trooper96 for supplying the files (and some extra pieces) for this incredible weapon, Kevin @kmwilson343 for donating the 3d print (and extras), Brian @Bulldog44 for donating one his incredible scopes, and Andrew @Sly11 for giving me the thumbs up to auction this off here on the FISD. You all truly rock, gentlemen, and my bucket is off to you.

Update: Well, the "hammered" finish didn't come out quite as expected, and is a lot smoother than I anticipated. I have used this product before, but you can overdo it quite fast and get puddling on the item you are painting. Still, I'm happy with the end result. SO on with the show: After gluing on the front sight guard (blue arrows are where the CA glue dried white- this will be painted) I added the tiny metal grub screw on the side. I made a new metal front sight pin from a screw by filing down the end and angling the top just like the authentic one. I forgot to take a pic of it, but the second image (borrowed from Tino) shows what it looks like. Now for the power cylinders- Starting with the correct size screws (10ba from the UK) I first cut off the heads. In looking at about 50+ reference pics, I noted that in most (but not all) cases they were present on the front and back, but that the front ones had a bit more of the bolt sticking out. I added an insanely tiny drop of CA glue (with a needle) to keep the nuts from coming loose, drilled holes in both ends and secured them in. I also added the large metal grub screw on the side of the magazine receiver and the infamous red cloth wire*** in the rear. *** The plate that I made earlier that goes in the side was secured in, but I still have to paint/weather the rear of the bolt to match. I wanted a little more detail on the sides of the rear sight to closer match the original (pic 2) so I cut off the ends of 2 pop rivets, drilled a hole in each side of the sight and glued them in. When disassembling the components of the trigger/grip I snapped off the base of the selector switch. Oops. I drilled out the center and epoxy glued piece of a bolt. It will be secured back in with epoxy putty. My apologies, but due to this it will be stuck in place and not operable. The 3D print lines are filled/sanded, so now I just have to prime and paint it before adding it. Still quite a bit to do, but I will be finishing up all the details today and posting up photos. This afternoon I will do the weathering and will be posting up the auction thread within a day or two. Stay tuned, and if you have been with with me on this journey so far- THANKS!

It looks like you are at the very limit (blue arrows) on how low you should take the mobility cuts on the rear of the calves, so I wouldn't go any further down. You can remove the tops of the cover strips so they don't stick out, but note that the left inside is looking a bit out of alignment with outside, so take this into consideration. Although they are permissible at all levels when done correctly, unless you need them I am not a fan of mobility cuts, but that's just me. If you do need them I would try to make them as shallow as possible.

I could not agree more on Bryan's kit. It truly is incredibly detailed. I am actually building one now to auction off for charity (link here). As I mention in my thread Glen linked to above, those wires on the Hengstler counter were not present in any of the E-11s seen onscreen. Looking forward to seeing your build!

I got the magazine holder glued to the shroud. Note that I had put blue tape over that area before the painting and sanded it down so that the glue would have a solid area to adhere to. I sanded down the rear of the magazine holder slightly to help with adhesion. Be sure to clean those areas before gluing! Now for something that may be a little controversial- Does anyone notice something a bit odd in this screen used E-11? (Besides the fact that the scope screws are not painted black). If you noticed that the shroud (and the front part of the folding stock) has a "hammered" metal finish you would be correct. Why, I do not know, but I like that look. So, I have taped off the parts that should not have it and will be using Krylon Hammered metal paint on the rest. I spent about an hour with a roll of painter's tape and a razor blade, but I think I am ready for this. Please, Lord Vader let this turn out good. Otherwise I have to sand this down again and start from scratch.