justjoseph63

Glen is spot on about using the white paint before the blue. I have a tutorial here that may help.

Nice work, Kody! A couple of things if I may.. It looks like you have trimmed the top and sides of your sniper plate, but I would suggest removing 100% of the return edge on the bottom which will allow it to sit flush with the top of the calf. It could very well be the camera angle, but your TD (including the panel itself) looks a little long and the end caps seem a bit wide. If this is the case, as long as you have not glued them it's an easy fix! As stated in the CRL for Basic approval: Screen used reference As one our vetted armorers Walt makes an awesome kit no doubt, but one thing that I noticed with his is that the raised button panel is more ROTJ than ANH for some reason. ROTJ style While in the past this style has been approved at all levels for ANH, there are those who have opted to replace them with more screen accurate ones. Keep up the great work and keep those photos rolling in!

Way to go Sean!

Looking sharp, Dan! Seriously GREAT job on this build, brother.. always a pleasure seeing someone who has gone above and beyond with tons of details. Well done! If I could offer up a suggestion (not a big deal, btw) it would be: Your bucket seems to be riding a bit high, and I think padding may be the issue. If you can see clearly, no biggie, but if you find yourself tilting your helmet forward to see better you may want to either remove or reduce the padding in the top. I had this issue, so now I only have pads on the sides/rear so that it sits much lower and my bucket moves when I turn my head. Note how the bottom of the helmets sit lower and cover the neck opening in front. Just a heads-up here.. the D.O.s may ask you to raise your TD and bring it in closer. Ideally the top of the cannister should be lined up with the top of the canvas belt (see reference pics) and the top of the clips should be barely visible from the rear. The TD from your last submission (3rd pic below) looks great! Note how the bend in clips on the screen used TD (4th pic) don't even reach the height of the top of the cannister. Other than that, I think you have it nailed. Again, dynamite job in this armor, Dan, and I'm sure you will have that next approval soon!

Those posting the negative comments online obviously have no idea what we represent. If they would bother to dig a little deeper into our organization, they would find that we have raised over $360,000.00 for the "Make-A-Wish" foundation and many, many thousands more for local charities. We spend crazy amounts of money building our costume(s) and then drive countless miles to appear (for free) at the events we attend on our own time. Remember, we only show up when we are invited, and this includes children's hospitals, police community events, parades, etc. We are asked back to these events year after year for a reason. Yes, we are the "bad guys", but what kid wouldn't want to meet a "real life" Stormtrooper who gives them a high-five? We don't do this for notoriety. We do it because we care. Yeah, it's fun to dress up as your favorite SW character, but when you see a giant ear-to-ear smile on a kid (or adult) at a troop it makes all the time (and money) you spent building that costume worthwhile. "Bad guys doing good". Side note: I have been on more troops than I can count, and I have noticed that the vast majority of those wanting photos with members of the 501st (especially TKs) FAR outweighs those wanting a pic with a Jedi. No offense to you Rebel Legion types, lol.

Regular Velcro is fine for many things, but I swear by the Industrial Strength type. You need to let it adhere to the surfaces for 24 hours or so before joining it, but it almost takes an act of Congress (or Parliament in your case, lol) to remove it once the bond is set. You can get a meter (WAY more than you will need) on Amazon UK for less than 6 pounds. Link here.

I would definitely trim down the tab, Jonathan. (Trust me). The example has more squared corners, but for comfort I suggest rounding them out a bit. Either way shown below is acceptable for Centurion. Suggested Example

You have obviously put a great deal of work into this armor and paid attention to details, Sean, and I can definitely see a Centurion badge in your future! The D.O.s will go over any issues for Level 3 in your review, but if you want to get a jump on it one that will need to be addressed is the position of your ABS belt. As per the CRL for Centurion level: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels It is usually held in place with snaps attached to the ab plate, which can be hard to adjust. An alternative to moving the snaps would be to use industrial strength Velcro AWESOME job on that blaster, by the way! As an E-11 enthusiast I was well impressed with all the details. Well done! Also, I know one D.O. (@Chemi) who will be very pleased with the position of your Han snap, lol. Perfect!

Overall a really sharp looking job on this armor, Sean! A couple of things may hold you back, but both are pretty straightforward to correct. As per the CRL for Basic approval, the paint on the teeth "does not leave the teeth area". Some (non acetone) paint remover and a toothpick will take care of that. Should take 10-15 minutes. Reference images For the TD, the white control panel (raised ribs) must face the rear, and yours is sitting pretty high. The clips should barely be seen (or not at all). One way to do this is to remove the TD, roll it back to the ideal position, cut off the ends, re-drill the holes and re-mount it. Again, 10-15 minutes or so and you will be golden. Reference image The D.O.s will need photos with your arms raised on the left side, showing the drop-box alignment and canvas belt details. You have a little work in front of you, but after seeing what a great job you did on this build these items should be a breeze! If you have any questions or need help we are here, so just ask. Looking forward to seeing the results!

Hi Sean! First, best of luck on your approval! You will need quite a few additional photos of your armor as well as your blaster. I have a thread (link here) that will show what is required. Looking forward to seeing them!

GREAT start to your build thread, Brad! Posting lots of detailed photos like you have here is the best (and fastest) way to get advice. I would definitely leave some return edges on the top/bottom of the kidney and top of the butt plate to keep them from over-riding each other. Other areas will be up to you, but I have a thread here which may help. AM makes a fantastic set of armor, but one issue that you may want to consider is that the bottom sides of the back plate often need a little extra work to keep them from overlapping the top of the kidney. Not a big deal for Basic or even Expert Infantry approval, but if you are (hopefully) aiming for Centurion it's something that may need to be addressed. A.J. has an awesome tutorial here that will help if you need it. Keep the questions and photos rolling in!

Oh yeah! Probably my favorite piece of merch ever. I used my Centurion approval # for the rear instead of my EI#, though. I don't get the chance to wear it much here in Florida, but this baby will be coming with me to Alaska in September.

Trimming the ears has always been the bain of most when building a bucket, but I think you nailed it, Chris! Super nice alignment on those ear screws, btw. I see no issues on the gaps, but there are a couple of items worth noting: The brow trim should ideally sit above the tops of the ears. Raising it just a bit may allow you to get the tops even closer (not that they need to be). Hopefully you haven't glued the trim in place, as it will make it MUCH easier to paint the traps or apply the decals (if you are using those). The screw heads look to have the correct diameter and will definitely get passed at both Basic and Expert Infantry level, but note that for Centurion (which I hope you will be aiming for) the dome shaped ones you currently have will need to be switched out for the V-shaped flat top style (last image below). If you have an ACE hardware nearby they sell these individually, but many other chains stores that sell hardware (like Lowe's) carry them as well. Keep up the great work!!

UPDATE: In case you haven't figured it out yet, this topic is an April fool's joke! Many thanks to the rascals who are behind the idea for this post- @Morgi (Luca), @MaskedVengeance (Caleb) and co-conspirator @revlimiter (Adam). Also a big shout out to those TKs (listed above in Justin's @TheRascalKing )post that had to endure relaxing in that hot tub, lol. Our apologies, but all submissions for LBT EI approval are indefinitely on hold (much to the relief of our D.O. staff).

Per the date of posting, I though this was an April Fool's thing, lol. Turns out I was (more than happily) mistaken. AWESOME graphics, and now that I have one it is now my new challenge coin. THANKS!

Even though some areas have not hit the 80 degree (or higher) mark yet, summer is outdoor trooping time! While many of us are old pros at this, those who have not participated in an outdoor troop on a hot/humid day should be aware of one word: Hydration. While most of the public will be wearing shorts and T-shirts, we are sporting a full body suit and are 95% covered with plastic... not exactly the perfect scenario to stay cool in the mid-day sun. Keeping your body properly hydrated is the key to successfully making it through your troop. Having cooling fans in your bucket certainly helps, but here are some pointers to stay safe (and upright, lol). THE DAY BEFORE Water- Plain and simple. To get your body ready, increase your consumption (in moderation) the day before. This will help hydrate you at the cellular level. A slow/steady intake the morning of and during the event will ensure that you make it through with no issues. The best way to tell if you are good to go is if your urine is clear . THE DAY OF Again, water. Drink as much as you feel comfortable drinking before and during. IMPORTANT: The sun is hot, you are sweating like a snowball on Tatooine so you decide to take a break. You take off your bucket and chug a big bottle of ice cold water. Bad idea. When your body is overheating, quickly drinking a big frosty container any beverage (even blue milk) constricts your blood vessels and can cause dizziness, nausea, vomiting, esophageal spasms (chest pains/cramping), shock and worse. Take a few sips at a time over the course of your break(s). SPORTS DRINKS If you are going to in the heat for several hours, adding a product that contains carbs, potassium, sodium and amino acids will help, but don't use them instead of water. Save those for afterward. COFFEE/TEA/SODA No need to skip your morning coffee/tea (or in my case Mountain Dew) in moderation, but be aware that caffeine is a diuretic, and too much can actually cause dehydration. IF YOU FEEL TOO HOT If you feel dizzy or need a break, it's nothing to be ashamed of so don't be a hero. Inform a handler immediately to escort you back to the break area. If one is not close by, don't wait, just go. If you feel really bad, have the person trooping closest to you to escort you back and stay with you. Even if in armor, sit down and drink small sips of cool (not ice cold) water. Call for medical help if you feel nauseated or dizzy. I have seen my share of troopers go down from the Florida heat. Not a pretty sight, so please be safe!

The D.O.s may ask you to rotate the pauldron back a bit. Just wondering where you are going to holster your E-11. On second thought.... nevermind.

Greetings to all Troopers (and future troopers)! On behalf of the staff, I would like to be the first to announce that we have now completed the next CRL to be added to our roster of approved FISD costumes (making a total of twenty)! As a bonus, a new weapon (the Ascension pistol) has been approved for this ensemble. A link will be added to the existing 501st FISD CRL site on 4/3/23 at 09:00 GMT. As with all costumes, please note that requirements are subject to minor updates. Those aiming for Basic 501st approval are urged to review this CRL for any such changes before submitting to their GML. Requirements for Expert Infantry (listed in blue) and Centurion (listed in red) have been included for those wishing to attain higher levels of approval, and may be submitted to the the D.O. department only after Basic approval is granted. Any questions for the staff or comments can be made on this thread. An announcement (as seen below) will be made on all of our social media platforms: SO, without further ado, we present the newest addition to our approved costumes:

Those are shoulder straps that would be used if you were doing a Sandtrooper build (no ribs) You probably received a strange sniper knee as well... also for Sandies. Hint: Be sure that the top of the ABS sits in the right place. Ideally it should cover part of the bottom button(s) on the ab plates.

If you keep your E-11 stored in your holster it will eventually take the shape of it.

My Hero armor is Anovos, and one thing I was really surprised to notice when I got the kit was that the holster really is superb. Super thick leather. Some makers are made with thin(ner) leather, which can cause an issue when actually trying to insert your E-11 as they just don't stay open enough. Especially tough when you can't see what you are doing with a bucket on, lol. The one with the black straps could be sold to someone doing an ESB build. "Also - save money when you have a hobby as this - said no one ever"! So true. Unfortunately many purchase armor from unscrupulous sellers on ebay for a "great price" then find out it can't even meet Basic 501st approval and are gutted when they find out. An inexpensive hobby this is not, but when done right a nice set of armor from a reputable maker looks truly spectacular and is something to be proud of.

If by "all black" holster do you mean the straps that hold it to the canvas belt? While there was an exception or two (see last pic below) the majority of the straps were the natural tan color, which is what it looks like you are wearing in the photo. Although the CRL doesn't specifically mention the color of the straps themselves, I would stick with the tan ones. Looks like one of the prop makers attached this one on the wrong side, lol.

That turned out GREAT, Chris! You may have already noticed, but make sure before you attach it to the ABS belt that it lines up with the 45 degree angles on the corners. The left side if perfect!

Welcome to the true home of shiny white armor, Brandon! Dave makes an awesome kit, and I'm sure you will be pleased with the quality. As Arthur mentioned, the key to a successful build is research. One way to do this is to look over other people's AM build threads. 2 are now in progress and can be found here and here, but there are lots of others. Fantastic to hear that you are aiming for Centurion right out of the gate! The best way to achieve this is to start your own build thread. That way, you can (and should) ask all the questions you want. Lots and lots of questions. Posting photos will help immensely, especially if you have an issue. A few more hints: Measure twice (or 3 times) before cutting. If you have an issue, don't just "forge ahead". Stop and ask for help. We are here for ya'. When in doubt, ask for advice before cutting or gluing. (Trust me on this one). Posting photos is easy. I have a tutorial here that will help. Lastly, take..... your.... time. Consider your build as a marathon, not a sprint. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

Nice job, Shane! I gotta' ask, though.. how does it fit?