justjoseph63

I noticed that there is no sales thread here on the FISD for these (for good reason). New folks see the term "501st" and assume that it is up to par, and I thinks it's misleading to them to say that it "can be submitted" for approval. Heck, I could submit a slingshot for approval, but that doesn't mean it would be accepted. It also states that it is and ESB style blaster, but has no ESB greeblies. Caveat emptor.

I personally wouldn't recommend adding shims in the front, Ryan, as this may affect basic approval. Doing that would leave a really wide gap in the bottom as well, which on the right side is not that big of a deal since it is covered by the thigh ammo pack, but since the outside cover strip only goes down to the top of the bottom ridge on the gap on left would be highly visible. (See reference image). I would suggest adding the shim in the back, where it is OK to have a wider outside cover strip. BTW, fantastic job on this kidney shims!! Reference image

You can certainly have up to 16 stripes as you do now, but they should not extend quite that far forward as Greg mentioned. If it were me, I would remove the ones shown below. Reference image

Almost there, Jenny! Could you please post up a pic of the other side of your blaster for me? Thanks!!

Thanks for the photos, Chris! You will definitely need to trim off all the return edges as seen in the photo below, especially in the neck area and shoulder tabs. Doing this and then shortening the shoulder elastic will allow the chest piece, kidney and posterior to ride higher. There should be a gap between the tops of the thighs in the rear and the bottom of the butt plate as seen in the reference image I posted above. It would also help to look at some of the other ATA Stunt builds to give you a better idea. Reference image

Nice job overall, Chris! There are a few areas that could use some attention while you wait on your boots and holster, and it would help to know your height. 1. You shoulder straps are perfectly positioned, but it looks as if they could definitely be shortened. A close up pic of them would help a lot. 2. The posterior (butt) plate will definitely need to be adjusted. It should not override the tops of the thighs or flare out on the sides like that. If you post up a photo of the strapping that would help us get you where you need to be. (See item below**) 3. The tops of the cover strips on the backs of the calves need to be cut down (super easy fix). The top should end just below the ridge. Reference image Reference image Reference image **It may be the photo, but did you remove all the material outside the indentation on the neck of your back plate? Doing so would raise it, the kidney and posterior plate up, which would help with the issue mentioned in #2. Again, a close up pic would certainly help us out a lot. Keep up the great work, and keep those photos coming, sir, (the more detailed, the better). We are here to help you get that TK number!

Awesome job on this armor, D'Angelo! One of us will be with you shortly, brother.

Bitte vergib mir mein schreckliches Deutsch!

Hallo Freddy, einer der Mitarbeiter von D.O. wird in Kürze bei dir sein, aber bitte füge ein Foto von der linken Seite deines Helmes hinzu.

Welcome to the world of shiny white armor, Andrew! GREAT to hear that you purchased an RS kit,, you can't really get more screen accurate than that. If I could share one thing with you, it would be "TAKE YOUR TIME". I know that you may be in a hurry to get out there and get trooping, but think of your build as more of a marathon than a sprint. Rushing things leads to mistakes, so be sure to ask lots of questions as you move along. We are here to help! Starting with the small parts is always advantageous.. It allows you to learn about E-6000 glue and how to use magnets, clamps and such before you move along to the bigger pieces. There are many build threads here to follow, but again, always feel free to post-up if you have any questions...

It may pass for basic approval, but nothing past that. I can't begin to describe how many things are wrong with this particular "E-11", which looks as if it is a recast of a Hasbro model. 1. T-tracks are all wrong 2. No recoil spring (or even an opening for one). 3. No charging handle. 4. Sights are wrong. 5. Folding stock is wrong. 6. Sides are uneven. Too many other things to mention... If you are looking for an "accurate" E-11, Morgan, this is not the way to go. You can either opt for a Hyperfirm, which is also made from a flexible material (which are not cheap, but are totally acceptable at all levels, contact slavefive for info https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/profile/1330-slavefive/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjQ1MTc2LCJpZF8yIjo2MTcwMTl9or build one using a Doopydoos kit: https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp Sorry to rain on your parade, brother, but you kinda' get what you pay for. Please feel free to ask any other questions you may have,,, we are here to help!

I also have a thread here that may help for supplies: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/

Like Brien mentioned, resin and plastic are both fairly easy to trim. Resin can be more brittle, though, and easier to chip.

If your ATA kit did not come with the 5/16th head rivets, I sell those at my cost, Tim. (See links below my avatar). As for boots, Jim's suggestion for ImperialBoots https://www.imperialboots.com/# was spot-on. They make a great product (I own 2 pairs) but they now make them in "waves", meaning it could take a month or two to get them. (More info. on their site). Just be sure if you order from them to go a size larger than you normally wear, as they run a bit small. There are other alternatives, like Chelsea boots that you can dye white, just ensure that there is no stitching on the front and that the specs from the CRL (link below) are met. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt When in doubt, just ask and we will be happy to help you!

There are 2 alternatives you can use, Michael, resin or aluminum. Here is a seller on eBay that sells the resin ones: ----------- Below is a seller I used on my last Doopydoos build to replace the muzzle. I personally like the sharpness of the aluminum edges. I cut off the front and had to use a Dremel to thin out the barrel opening so that it would fit, but after some epoxy, sanding and painting it came out great. ----------- I also used his aluminum parts to replace the mag well, folding stock, magazine and end cap.

Here you go, sir:

Welcome, Camden! There are a lot of armorers that sell kits that are less than what Anovos does. When they first started out a few years ago, you could pick one up for around $400.00. Now it has jumped to over $900.00, and their delivery times also started to run up to a year or more. Coupling that poor communication got them removed from our "vetted sellers list" https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Don't get me wrong, it's a decent set of armor, but there are better alternatives out there, especially for that price. You also will want to check out this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/ If you have any questions about particular makers (or anything else for that matter) just ask... we are here to help!

I think you mean Tony's..(ukswrath)

MUCH better, Lou... really nice job! When doing the ABS paste thing, here are a few tips... 1. Remove the ear. This will give you better access to the area. 2.. Place a piece of painter's tape on the inside of the hole to seal it. 3. Mask off the area on the front as close to the hole as close as you can get. This will keep any excess from the rest of the area. 4. Put in just enough paste to fill the hole, and try not to over fill it. I suggest using a sharp implement, dipping it in the paste and letting it drop in. 5. After it dries/cures, use a super fine grit sandpaper to smooth it down. Keeping the tape on (or re-taping it) will keep you from making scratches outside the repaired area. You really shouldn't need to polish it as it is so small and will probably not be noticeable, but that's up to you. 6. Post up a pic of your work!

Using CA (super) glue is really not recommended for first time builders, Tommy. First, due to it's thin viscosity it can run or drip, and if it gets on your armor it will at the very least cause a rough patch even if you wipe it off right away. If it dries, expect to spend a lot of time with super fine grit sandpaper removing it, and then polishing it out. Secondly, after it dries it can become brittle, and on areas like the front calf connection this can cause problems as they are under a lot of stress from opening and closing them while getting suited up. Lastly, if you do make a mistake it is unforgiving. The main reason we recommend E-6000 is that it had fantastic adhesion properties, but can be removed through various ways if needed without damaging your armor. The downside is that it requires extended drying time, but it is well worth it, trust me. I'm sure (like all of us) that you want to get your kit done as quickly as possible, but like I always say, building a set of armor is more of a marathon than a sprint, so take your time. You will get there! Don't get me wrong, I always keep a supply of the gel type CA glue in my bin along with an activator for emergency repairs, but that's all I use it for.

Sounds good! Keep us posted, sir.

Wow, Lou.. just WOW! EXCELLENT job on this AM armor, sir. You have obviously been studying some of the submissions in the Advanced Tactics area, as your attention to detail is incredible. You should have absolutely no problems for basic approval, and I expect to see your submission for Expert Infantry right after! The one thing you will need to address for that is your left ear could stand to be moved back a bit. The right one is OK, but if you look at the difference in the area between the front of the round part and the tear there is a smaller gap. Note on the screen used bucket below how the center of the top lines up with the rear of the trap, and that it is angled back. Yours doesn't need to be quite that severe, but it should be closer to it. Also, once you get your basic approval, don't forget to apply for Legion access here on the FISD! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ Again, outstanding work, sir! (Nice hand guards, btw, ).

Those should be just fine once you get them dyed. As for Imperial boots, I have 2 pairs, could not be happier, and have never heard anything negative about them. The only things is that they make them in "waves" (which, if you check their site should be right now). Also, order a size larger than you normally wear, as they can run a bit small. Shipping is fast once they make them... (mine only took about 8 days), and communication with the company was great.

I used these on my last build, and they worked out great! The nice thing is that they are held on with Velcro so can be easily removed for cleaning: --------- As for keeping it on your head, I have found that once you put the pads in they will pretty much keep it in place, even when you tilt your head down. NOTE: On my first bucket, I put pads on the top of the inside, but found that it rode really high and I was constantly tilting it forward just to be able to see. After removing it I had no problems, and the side pads keep it in place just fine. You can order stencils for the ab button plates on Trooperbay: https://trooperbay.com/abdominal-plate-masking-template

I used these on my last build, and they worked out great! The nice thing is that they are held on with Velcro so can be easily removed for cleaning: ----------- As for keeping it on your head, I have found that once you put the pads in they will pretty much keep it in place, even when you tilt your head down. NOTE: On my first bucket, I put pads on the top of the inside, but found that it rode really high and I was constantly tilting it forward just to be able to see. After removing it I had no problems, and the side pads keep it in place just fine.