HansDC

Nice!

The logical thing to do is to size the cover strip to the same width as your raised edges after they have been sized and joined....no?

Those Husky boxes are rad! Especially the flat one!

Any throat mic with a stereo plug (2 ring) will work with the AKER.

Here are a few quick pics of my box. 70LT Toolbox with tray from the local hardware (Bunnings in Aus). FIts everything xept my helmet. I cut some holes in the tray to fit my blaster too. The box also fits in the boot of almost all hatchbacks, or will take up one passenger spot in the car. Hope this gives you an idea of what you can do. PS. My armour is strapped together with elastics and snaps so most of it can be taken apart except for the ab and kidneys - which are held together with elastics/rivets. If you use the traditional wire hooks...then you might need a bigger box because you won't be able to take the body apart.

I was 'umm-ahh'-ing around about completing my HWT with the purchase of a backpack. Between FISD and MEPD, I wasn't sure if I wanted to carry a backpack at all - until I saw this...!!!! Sorry if I've missed a post, but will you be selling these in time? Kits even? Cos Im keen! Man this is some nek level ish. So impressed.

Im missing only the backpack for a HWT application. Still not sure if I wanna commit to wearing one. Its already hard enough with a pauldran. :/

Im 5"10 and about 175lbs ish. Don't really have a belly but I'm not super skinny either. I have an AP and I just fits. If I put on any more weight I would have to do some shimming. I have large thighs and calves too, and they are tight. I didn't take any off the shins but I took a touch too much off the thighs....so I had to do some extension work which resulted in my back thigh cover strip being about 50mm wide! Just from what you have said about your 'phisique' - You would have to do some serious shimming especially in the ab area if you end up with an AP. My opinion is that it is easier to have to cut off excess, rather than have to make shims. Hope this info helps a little. Good luck!

I use webbing instead of ABS pieces to mount my snaps as I find them easier to glue onto curved areas especially. Also glued elastics straight onto armour - on the inside of the shoulders and the main elastic straps in the thighs.

Ah yes I see where the wire goes! So sneaky! Thanks for the advice. I have since set my cocking stock to the front. Makes sense about the whole 'ready to fire' thing. Also a bit more out of the way when I carry it in a certain position. Cool. Needs some cleaning up and touchup paint and Ill try and post some pics soon. Cheers Craig!

Im 5'10 ish and about 170lbs. I have an AP and the sides fit me perfectly. If I was bigger around the waist I would have to shim. Good luck in choosing!

Im pretty sure my t-tracks are wired in like Aaron's photos. But would be great if you could find some reference of what I need to do. Also for level 2 certification it only states... For level two certification (if applicable): A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side. Where have you seen the need for a cocking handle? Is it an MEPD thing?

First of all - thank you for your concern for accuracy. I had a look at Aaron's pics. I actually built my gun with the help of his pics. After all, the resin mould came from him. As you can see the cocking handle on Aaron's blaster is set to the back. That is the way it was moulded. My biggest concern is when that I can't carry the gun comfortable with the cocking handle where it is. I might just remove it altogether. I never really saw it was there in the movies and I don't really think you need a cocking handle on a laser blaster....right? As for the wire in the T-tracks....I don't understand what you mean. Did you mean the wire should go in and out of the cooling holes? My DLT has no moving parts, gets soft and bendy when left in hot weather for too long and has no lights or sounds. So as far as 'accuracy' concerned - I'm not.

Couple quick pics. Sorry they are dark...

Oh yes...sorry...I did. And thanks for the link. Im going on my first troop with it this saturday so Ill post a report of it and maybe more detailed pics of it all.

I thought I was prepped and ready to paint, but after only the first coat of primer, all the blemishes and inconsistencies showed right through. I could live with most of them, except for the one massive join from the mould right down the top of the entire gun. So it was back to the drawing board with more Dremel and sanding action. The weather was kind to me today. Sunny and dry! I wasted no time in getting to it. These are the paints I used. All the parts were painted with the black primer/paint combo. Managed to find it in satin black which was handy. The flat black for the T-tracks and the hammer finish for most of the gun. The hammered paint I discovered helps to hide most of the blemishes on the mould. Hella messy tho as it kinda just spurts to give that effect. I also used Tamiya Gunmetal for the steel pipe that goes into the barrel. Had some sitting around and thought id would add a nice touch to the finished product. Once that was done and dried, it was tim to put on the T-tracks and wire. Superglued the twisted ends to the barrel cos you can't really see them as the bipod covers most of it. Finished off by gluing the bipod on. Here it is in its parts. And some close up pics of it assembled. The extra sanding and paint really helped. You can't really see the seam anymore. Im quite pleased that I put in that extra elbow grease. The connection isn't perfect. As you can see there is a tiny gap...but the gun is solid and doesn't bend unless you really force it. Still have to paint that silver strip where the butt connects the gun. Don't really wanna paint the butt that bakelite colour as well. I think i'll stick to black. All in all, Im pretty pleased with what I have done. Thanks everyone for all your references and guidance. Its currently sitting against my room door and it looks amazing! Now I really want one with moving parts, lights and sounds!!! I do have to say tho its pretty heavy. And I haven't found a comfortable position to carry it in yet... Let me know what you think!!! Cheers!

Sorry bout that! Here is a pic of the mic. It cost me about AUD$20 from Jaycar. One way with a stereo 3.5mm plug. Just be careful when buying 3.5mm connectors.....make sure they are stereo ones and not iPhone, or ones with three bands on the plug. They won't work with your i-Comm or Aker. --------

When I was at the hardware store buying the pipe, I had a choice of aluminium or steel. Went for steel cos it wasn't as likely to bend at the aluminium one. It also added a bit of extra weight which I don't mind. Bolt idea was a bit of a pain - cos mine is really really snug. But it works and it adds a nice detail to the finished product. Just make sure your main 22mm hole is straight on both the stock and the flash thingy on the front. Helps if you have another set of eyes to guide the drilling process especially if you don't have a drill press. Good luck. Mine is almost ready! Can't wait to see yours (Heinous)!

I was never a heavy smoker. Probably averaged 2 a day and a few more on the weekends. But I have been a smoker for 23 years. My story is a little different, in that I didn't intend to quit in the first place. Over a few months, I had a friend whom I saw out at parties or what not - he had an e-ciggie. I was intrigued and played with it whenever he pulled it out. So I ended up doing some research and bought one. After a couple of weeks of tinkering with it to get it right, I brought it out for the first time to a party. I remember hanging out in the smokers area and having my mates laugh at my new 'hipster' toy. I succumbed and finally asked for a drag of someone else's cigarette. Took one puff and almost threw up. From then I knew that I was on a good thing. This month will mark 7 months for me. I don't miss it. And over the last couple of months I only use the vaporiser when Im out at social events. I think pretty soon I will be off that too. I did get really sick right after I quit. But my GP said that it would be my body getting rid of all the shucks Ive put into it over the last two decades. Good Luck buddy! Its tough, but also very achievable. Your life will change.

ADAM! I watched your youtube after weeks of trying all sorts of sound fx/amplifier techniques. Ended up with a go-pro chest mount with a modified adapter screwed into the AKER and and i-Comm velcro-ed to it. Bought a cheap one-way throat mic and everything works like a charm! No feedback whatsoever and have tried it with full armour on. Here is a pic. I can do a vid too if anyone is interested. Thanks for the inspiration! --------

Managed to squeeze a few hours in today when it stopped raining for a bit... Decided to drill the holes right through. Took forever. So many holes. Also did as much as I could as far as cleaning up the details. Its not 100% but Im hoping the small blemishes are not noticeable once a few layers of paint are on. Attached the ammo box and disc thingy... Then bath time.... Hopefully we get some calm sunny weather next few days so I can start painting.

I tried for a long time to source a complete or kit form DLT-19 but to no avail. Mainly because I live in Australia which have pretty strict gun laws. Everything from sellers not willing to risk sending it to customs actually confiscating the shipment. But by some stroke of luck, I managed to find someone locally who could cast resin moulds. Got my kit from TPE (The Plastic Empire) in Melbourne if anyone is interested. https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Plastic-Empire/634619653244041 Whenever I look up the build threads on here, I get madly envious. The guys and girls who are super handy and can craft anything from just about anything - I wish I was one of you. But unfortunately Im not. Some of you have crazy skill sets and I have mad respect for you even tho you might think its nothing. For inspiration I used mostly Chance's (2thin) build thread. Thanks mate, our brief forum convo really got me motivated. So onto my build. While waiting for the kit to arrive, I read through all the build threads and had in my head that I was gonna have moving parts, sound and light FX, blah blah blah. Then the box arrived. Was super excited but when I looked at it, I knew it wasn't just gonna be a little bit of glue and paint. All the crazy mods I had planned in my head - went out the door. I spotted my biggest headache straight away which was to bore the massive 22mm hole about 6 inches deep so I could connect the main parts. I don't have a shed full of tools and the only power tools I actually own are a Dremel and a Hoover. I started by trimming all the excess bits and cleaning up all the small parts. There were heaps and heaps of bubbles all over the entire mould so I spent a bit of time filling with putty. While doing all this I had a rethink of my plan. I came to realise that it wasn't the fact that I wouldn't be able to accomplish all the extras, but more the fact that I didn't have the experience and knowledge...yet. So my plan of attack was to build my first DLT as basic as possible, something that will look half decent on a troop. Easy enough I figured. And then I could aim higher with the next one I do. My main goal was to be able to pull the gun apart for packing/transport. The bipod came in one solid piece so had to cut out all the excess Do you know if the hole under the etched bits is meant to be open all the way through? Here it is roughly cleaned up.... Im still not sure if I want to replace the various screw heads with real ones. I have done so on my E-11, but after many coats of primer and paint, I don't really think it matters too much. Also finding the correct sized/shape screw has been a little challenging. As you can see there is still a but of detailing/sanding etc to do... After putting everything on hold for the X-Mas and New Year's madness, I managed to rope a mate into helping me figure out the next stage, which was to try and connect the main pieces together. He has a shed full of tools and was keen to help. We measured the size of the hole (22mm) and purchased a drill bit of the same size. I was recommended to use a spade bit, but my mate insisted that this one we got was better for what we were doing. And he was right. He explained that because we didn't have a drill press and had to do it by hand, it would be safer incase we went a little crooked. Tried to find an aluminium or steel tube that would fit snugly into the PVC pipe to strengthen the barrel, but didn't have much luck. This was as close to one I could find. I think with a little bit of hot glue I can secure it without it rattling around. I also intend to drill the cooling holes on the barrel all the way through the PVS pipe so you can see the steel tube through it. What do you think? This is the finished hole We drilled a hole where there was a moulded bolt and replaced it with a real one. This actually helps to secure both pieces on one end. The other end is secured just by friction with the moulded sections on the left (below pic) Underside view Test assembly I couldn't help myself.... Thats where Im at so far. Still a bit of detailing with the Dremel and quite a bit more sanding to do. Then paint. Hopefully Melbourne gives us a few nice days in the week ahead. I set today aside for more building....but of course its raining with no end in sight.... My next troop is in a week, so hopefully I will have a big gun to carry around then. Any suggestions, tips, critiques are welcome! Thanks for looking so far!

WHOOAAAAAAAA!!!!! WEAPONS OVERLOAD!!!!

I have both Darman and Veedox neck seals. Darman are super comfortable but It didn't come with enough material around it and I had problems with it coming out of the ends of my armour. Ended up having to take it to a tailor with some extra material to re-sew everything together. Veedox one I received this morning and I have to say are great with the bib and all. Its a lot easier to pull down and adjust it with all your armour on as opposed to trying to tuck bits back in around your neck. It also covers all my electronics which I wear on a chest mount. I would always try and purchase through a 501st member because you know they are made properly with the right intent, and that you will get the best value. Happy to pay that extra bit for the workmanship.

Thanks for your response! Ok cool, I kinda get the idea sorta. I had in my head how I could put it together (the easiest way), but I imagined I wouldn't be able to be too rough with it on troops or hand it over confidently to randoms to have a play. Everyone else's build looks super solid. But I guess no one really knows until they actually hold one. I really like the look of the barrel holes drilled through. But you're right. I fear with all the holes in the PVC, it won't hold straight. Im thinking of your aluminium tube idea but permanently attaching the alu tube into the PVC one and then drilling through the whole lot. What do you think? We had a massive old school crew Xmas party the other day and most of my older mates were there who are mostly tradesmen and builders. They laughed at my project at first (especially the trooper part), but when I showed them pics of this kit and some pics of finished ones - they were quick to give suggestions. Some said that I could take it in to a fitter & tuner and get them to machine the joining parts. This way its got industrial strength/accurate fittings and the gun will never come lose when locked in. This seems a little extreme tho for a prop gun I think. Another suggested plastic conduit joints that screw in both ends. Just drill to size, embed them and you should be able to screw both ends in. I just don't like the idea of having to screw the gun together because it might not align perfectly. If it was just slide n' lock life would be so much better. Anyways I just waiting for another mate to have a free day so he can help me figure it out. He has a shed full of tools and he's confident we should be able to work it out. Will try and start a thread once I get a little further in the process. Still trying to fill all the bubbles in the mould and reshape certain corners.