TK bondservnt

it looks like a melted marshmellow

white soles boots, ROTJ blaster (can see soles on his FB page photostrip) anh hands. ugh... that frown! knee plate looks broken

PM sent to sergiu.

this is not the case in this situation! one camera one light. not 2 cameras in different light. if it were 2 different cameras then your quote would be correct.

this photo shows the contrast using one photo. the darker grey was the screen matched grey that mike from trooperbay used from the helmet he had in his hands. (testors) the ear cap and frown clearly are lighter.(humbrol) since it's the same photo with the same light values it CLEARLY shows the difference IN ONE PHOTO! most photo comparisons use different cameras and situations of light but this one is different because it's all in the same camera at the same time! like the photo here one camera one same light one camera same light

so mark... you're saying that both colors of the paints have changed? I have helmets painted with humbrol and they are FAR too tan. I go with the testors 1138 as it matches the colors. in person when you look at the difference it's really pretty clear. old school... heheh.. it's all testors. 1138 for anh. here's a photo comparison between a set of decals and humbrol on my TKC helmet before I repainted it with Testors The humbrol on the ear is what's wrong... and the frown... look at the difference between the TRAPS and the TEARS

on the left it's just the lighting reflecting the white armor in the black. movie lighting in this scene is quite white. or it's the unpainted blaster rail we've seen in other screenshots. we'll have to look at the scene again! white walls, white armor, white lights... all adds up to white washed out reflections. they are all painted if you watch the scene with movement? the trooper in the center is using the same blaster as luke in the photos, you can tell by the T Track glued to the scope. this version appears to have a longer magazine, since most likely it's a blank firing real sterling. the other 2 troopers have painted sight rails as well, again it's partially the weathering and lighting.

I would have them assemble it according to your measures. It's priceless to have experts do the hard work for you! it's worth every penny! I would go PVC. it's stronger! RS props are masters at making assembled armor.

the alignment varys. I like to center the rear foot directly above the hinge. and I like to center the hengstler logo directly across from the front foot of the scope. this puts the scope, and counter closer to the magazine well, and it varys from billhag's templates by about 1/4" or so. I like to keep the counter and scope close to the mag well. this is probably the best shot scope on the left is m19 scope on the right is m38 you can see how close the scope and counter are to the magazine in this shot. also seen is a small cut section of T Track glued to the top of the scope.

humbrol changed their color. The testors 1138 is the closest match to Trooperbay Decals. trooperbay decals were color matched by using a screen used helmet for the color he took pantone tools and matched them in 2007. that's 6 years ago. I have lids painted with humbrol, and I plan to repaint them with the testors. even your photo shows the major difference in color. the humbrol color USED to be darker back in 2009.

I posted links on FB and on their webisode guide!

ah! the original deckard build post!

it's worth it to joke about post count in a post like this EH? thanks again for all your help. I've always liked the way you handle new submissions!

AH... nice one karin... now we both get 2 more posts... and he'll answer... so that's at least 3 more... math... what a wonderful thing. really@! it's a tribute to hard work on Mathias' part since he not only posts... but he has to work to create them! you do a great job brother! :pint1: :pint1:

I hit purchase but nothing happened?

using the hammered for the base texture is fine, but you then have to knock it down with a regular matte clear coat.

I just put the lanyard around my neck. it hangs at the bottom of the chest. I don't turn it up much louder than a real person speaking, so that helps me a lot!

I was just mentioning that AP goes together pretty well for an overlap design since TKC is ROTJ assembly with an ANH lid does that help?

The whole ANH/ESB element has always shown butt join and cover strip. making my TKC with AP is proving to be a fun project. not hard... but way faster than having to make 4 perfect cuts instead of only 2. and then the glue process could be instant if you use ABS solvents, or zap a gap. I'm still just taking my time with e-6000 since I might want to change the suit into a different kind someday.

I'd just put on a good set of gloves and work carecully with a blunt butterknife. start in the center of the snap plate and use even and slow pressure. be careful or you might wrinkle the outside from too much pressure on the inside. a blunt blade helps to keep it from sticking or cutting... you just want to pry gently. don't bend the knife back and forth.... just use it like a blunt chisel don't slide it in, and then bend up... just push the blade under and then use a sawing motion to let the small little knife edges on a regular butter knife to cut the plate off from the inside. by starting at the center, you're releasing the snap first. then just carefully slide to the edges. using HEAT is a very bad idea when dealing with armor and a snap plate. imagine the snap heating up first, melting a circle in the outside of the armor and then when you pry it off, it makes a hole!

all you need to do is get some 1/8" screw posts, drill holes in some "snap plate" style panels then glue the panels to the inside of the knee plate. then align and drill holes in the shin upper lip. then screw the knee plate on from the inside. this way the screws are on the inside of every part. just make sure that you don't put any glue directly on the screw. I usually cover it with duct tape.

I use a mallet hammer to hit the caps all the way around, then I use it to hammer the edge. it can work to remove caps that have some plastic to work with.

Silly me... I like flat.

don't follow the trooperbay advice on the thigh power cell strip. he mounts that incorrectly.